Skip to main content

Travelling back in time in Munich 慕尼黑的時光倒流

It's never difficult to catch a glimpse of history anywhere one goes in Europe. Munich and surrounds are full of relics and reminders of its long and colourful histories of the city itself as well as of the former Bavarian kingdoms.
在歐洲想看歷史並不難,慕尼黑和週邊地區便有不少古蹟,見證了這個城市和幾百年前巴伐利亞王國豐富而悠久的歷史。

Munich celebrates its anniversary every year in mid-June, and this year the festivities are held on 15th to 16th June. I went into town on the 15th wanting to try the Prinzregententorte (literally Prince Regent Cake), Munich's very own cake originally made as a present for Prince Regent Luitpold, in the bakery that was believed to be the birth place of the cake. As soon as I found out that Munich was celebrating its 855th anniversary that day, I thought how appropriate it was to mark this occasion with a 'birthday cake' that is one of the symbols of the city itself!
每年六月中都是慕尼黑慶祝成立紀念日的時候,今年的活動便在6月15至16日舉行。15日那日前往市中心,一心想到「攝政王蛋糕」的始祖店一嘗這個最有本地特色的蛋糕。當時製造這個蛋糕,是要給攝政王Luitpold作賀禮(目的則眾說紛紜),但一知到那天是慕尼黑855週年紀念日時,吃這個蛋糕,便多了一重慶祝生日的意義!



A Munich birthday cake for Munich's anniversary!
慶祝慕尼黑855週年,當然要用慕尼黑的蛋糕!




















Having a beer is another very local way to celebrate!
週年誌慶,值得乾杯!













Enjoying a day out in traditional Bavarian style (above) and in typical turn of 20th century style (right)
傳統巴伐利亞(左)和20世紀初(右)的服飾









The former Bavarian kings and princes have several residences around Munich, and on the 16th I visited Schloss Schleißheim (Schleissheim Castle) which is located north of the city and conveniently only about 5.5 km from where I stay. I started the visit with a pleasant bike ride and lunch in the beer garden by the castle. Then I took a ramble within the park of the castle, starting from the Neues Schloss (New Castle) at one end to the Schloss Lustheim on the other end. While it may look non-descript, Schloss Lustheim is home to the largest collection of Meissen porcelain outside Dresden thanks to a generous donation by a private collector. It took me at least an hour to browse through the entire collection while trying to understand the important artistic developments of the porcelain.
從前的巴伐利亞皇室,在慕尼黑建了好幾家皇宮,16日那天我便參觀了位於慕尼黑以北的Schleißheim皇宮,離家祇是5.5公里左右,所以騎腳踏車前往並不遠,而且沿途一片郊野景色也頗怡人。到達皇宮後,我先到那裡的啤酒園吃一道地道午餐,然後在皇宮花園逛逛,從新皇宮(Neues Schloss)的那一端到另一端的Lustheim皇宮,別小覷Lustheim其貌不揚,其實那裡展出了德雷斯頓(Dresden)以外最大型的Meissen陶瓷收藏,由一位私人收藏家捐出,走遍全館看展品和了解一下說明便花了我個多小時呢。



Neues Schloss  新皇宮
















The park of the castle
皇宮花園










Schloss Lustheim from afar
遠看Lustheim宮













The ceiling in the main hall of Schloss Lustheim
Lustheim宮大廳的天花







See also this photo album for the exhibits.
展品的相片收錄在此相片集






The Neues Schloss is nothing short of spectacular with its grand halls, including the stair hall that beams with grandeur with its high ceilings, wide stairways and the decors on the walls. Parts of it were mirrored on Château de Versailles (and it's not the first castle to do so; others include the Schloss Schonbrunn in Vienna and the Schloss Herrenchiemsee at Chiemsee) but I must say that the stair hall here is more glorious than Versailles!
新皇宮內部裝潢盡顯氣派,尤其是大演奏廳和樓梯廳的高樓底、寬闊的樓梯和牆上的裝飾。新皇宮的設計參考法國凡爾賽宮(其他參考凡爾賽宮的可不少,我參觀過的計有維也納的美泉皇宮和慕尼黑附近基姆湖的男基姆湖宮),但樓梯廳宏偉的建築可謂青出於藍!





The Grand Hall (Der große Saal)
皇宮大演奏廳













The Grand Gallery (Die große Galerie)  皇宮大畫廊





The staircase hall (Das Treppenhaus)
樓梯廳















The Victory Hall (Der Viktoriensaal)
凱旋大廳













The Vestibule (Vestibül)
門廳










Germans are big on mediaeval festivities during the summer months, and this year coincides with the re-enactment of the Landshuter Hochzeit (Landshut Wedding) held once every 4 years! The original wedding took place in 1475, between the royal families of Bavaria-Landshut and Poland (see the official website for a more detailed history). Nowadays the celebrations consist of re-enacting the wedding itself – it was open to VIPs only but a colleague and I caught a glimpse of the 'prince' and the 'princess' before they disappeared into the hall – and a long parade through the two main streets of the town with people from all walks of life back in those days. I was hoping to be able to taste some mediaeval food but instead I was offered a 'mediaeval style' beer at 10:30, the earliest time ever for me to have any alcoholic drinks!
德國人夏天時很熱衷中世紀節慶,而今年剛好遇上四年一度Landshut婚禮的重演,原來的婚禮在1475年舉行,今時今日重演的婚禮,祇開放給特別嘉賓,但我有幸在「新郎」和「新娘」遠離公眾視線踏入禮堂前看到他倆一面,婚禮後的巡遊,除了兩主角外,也有打扮成中世紀不同職業和角色的人前後擁簇著。我本來也希望趁節慶能一嘗中世紀飲食,但唯一祇是在早上10:30喝到中世紀啤酒,是我一生人中一天內最早喝酒的一次。




A mediaeval open kitchen
中世紀開放式廚房












Festival wreaths worn by many
節慶時配戴的花圈











Bands roaming around town
鎮內音樂演奏處處











Getting ready for the parade
浩浩蕩蕩前往巡遊





















Burg Trausnitz (Trausnitz Castle), where the wedding took place
婚禮舉行的Trausnitz城堡


















The prince and princess
婚禮的主角















The photos of this parade are in this photo album.
巡遊的相片收錄在此相片集

Landshut itself was worth a visit without the wedding. The houses in the village were painted with a variety of bright colours, instead of other typical Bavarian villages which are dominated with wooden houses or are almost uniformly in white. It is located by the river Isar, the same river that passes through Munich and ends in confluence with the Danube, and would have made for a pleasant bike ride if time allowed.
Landshut本身也值得一遊,村內的房屋色彩繽紛,跟一般巴伐利亞村落的木房屋或一律塗了白色外牆的房屋大異其趣。流經Landshut的Isar河,如果時間充裕的話,應是騎腳踏車的好去處。


















Colourful houses
色彩繽紛的房屋



















Town hall
市政廳













Martinskirche (St. Martin's Church) 
聖馬丁教堂






















Landshut by the Isar (left and below)
Isar河畔的Landshut(左圖及下圖)










Travelling back in time always has its fascination, and these celebrations allow a community to take pride in and learn from their history. There is always more to explore but that will have to wait another time!
讓「時光倒流」,既可讓大眾認識一下歷史,也可吸引遊人,是很有意義的活動,祇可惜時間有限,值得參觀的地方和活動眾多,唯有留待將來了!

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

正字正確

廣州最近掀起保衛廣東話運動,早前星期日明報副刊一篇 文章 ,已對此作了精譬分析,我也不必插嘴了。 不過我想談談另一個相連的問題,相信久不久也會困擾好些港人,就是怎樣才算「正確」、「正統」的書面語。 我們自少便被老師耳提面命,廣東話絕不可用於寫作(雖然現在大行其道,我在網上留言甚至偶而寫電郵都會用廣東話),粵語和港式詞彙應以書面語(以普通話為標準的用語)取代,於是把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜,諸如此類,從小已習慣,我也沒異議。 但香港實在很多獨有的或跟國內有差別的詞彙,應用於主要給香港人看的場合當然沒問題,但國內或其他華人就可能覺得蹩腳甚至不一定明白。同樣國內的好些用詞,港人看到也會覺得有點不自然甚至礙眼。我寫網誌不時都會掙扎,究竟用國內的用詞好(我想一般來說應該是比較「正規」的,而且近幾年跟來自國內的人多了交往,或多或少都學到一點他們的用語),還是香港的說法好(始終不少讀者都是香港人,用上國內的詞語他們或許會覺得有點怪怪的),所以我盡可能兩者兼用,港式說法通常以括號並列,但我有時祇會用國內的用詞,也有時祇用香港的說法,可見我也往往拿不定主意。 問題是應該怎樣劃界線,區別「正確」和「不正確」的書面用語呢?我們應該遵從甚麼的「標準」?比方說在香港,學生寫了一句「我的志願是太空人」,公認是沒有問題的,老師一般也不會勉強學生寫「我的志願是航天員」,好了,這樣便是承認了香港和國內的用語確有區別,但既然如此,為甚麼把該句寫成「我嘅志願係太空人」時,老師便一定不會容許?又或者為甚麼寫作時硬要把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜?這道界線是誰定的,定立時又有甚麼理據?香港可不像很多國家般,有一個高高在上的法定語文機構(例如法國的Académie française),又或有權威性的詞典(例如英國的牛津字典,和國內的辭海),對語文作出一定規範,難免令人寫作時感到無所適從,甚麼香港和粵語詞彙可以用於書面、哪些不可。 用語的取向,也涉及文化取態的問題,我像一般港人一樣也認同寫作時要用書面語,盡量跟隨普通話的「標準」,但不會全盤用國內的詞彙和行文,一來不習慣,二來不免總有種維護本土文化的潛意識,特別是香港和國內社會制度上和文化上始終有點隔閡,這種矛盾不一定輕易化解。 究竟甚麼才算是「標準」、「正確」的書面中文,我想大概沒有「標準答案」,往往靠個人的見識和學養才可作出定奪,但隨著香港跟國內交往越來越...

Newborn, new experiences (1) 新生兒,新體會(1)

The birth of our daughter at the end of September marks a new chapter and brings about new life experiences for me and my wife. 小女9月底出生,為我和太太揭開人生新一章,也帶來新的體驗。 Mum was admitted to a nearby public hospital for the birth. The maternity ward is a lifely and buzzling place, subdivided into many rooms occupied by up to 4 mums and their babies at a time. Visiting hours is from 08:00 to 20:00, and up to one person can visit at one time and two different people each day. These limitations are part of the hospital's covid policies when the rest of the society has moved on as if nothing had happened - apparently there used to be no limit to visitations before covid, so a dad could in fact accompany the mum and baby all night long. One long-lasting impression from the maternity ward was the symphony of baby cries in which all babies took their turns to join including mine. Calming down the baby was almost impossible in this ambience and was very tough on mum especially when she was battling her...

吉隆坡(2)——離不開食

到吉隆坡旅遊,有什麼好做? 當然是入鄉隨俗,吃個飽!當你見到宜家家具店餐廳佔用兩層樓面,你也不禁懷疑,馬來西亞的宜家主要賣家具還是食物! 就算是到宗教的地方遊覽,食也是重要的一環! 其中一天我們到市邊錘的黑風洞(Batu Caves),那裡的重點是272級七彩階梯和梯頂的山洞。走進山洞,地面的嘈音和熱力頓然被清幽和清涼取代,很是洗滌心靈。不過到走回到山下時,看到很多人都輪着買新鮮椰子水,我也覺得,滿足心靈後也應滿足口福,給自己買一個即場砍開的椰子喝。 另一天的行程是到一小時車程外的雲頂高原作一天遊,除了山上的花花世界,山腰的岩水寺也同樣可以讓人暫時拋離現實世界,都是值得參觀。坐長途巴前往的雲頂高原要轉乘吊車登頂,但正值新的登山吊車年度維修,不可以直接搭吊車到岩水寺,唯有搭舊吊車到山頂後雇計程車前往。一口氣登頂,愈靠近山頂愈見到更多的雲霧飄過,雲頂此名果然起得沒錯! 下山時霧更濃 建岩水寺的人,真懂得選址,在山腰,背靠雲頂,面向山下,盡收大地精華以及四周山色。寺廟之地,有齋菜吃絕不為奇,但此地還可容下其他小食、 星巴克咖啡甚至榴槤攤檔,我也把握機會買一個新鮮榴槤現場吃,在寺的安寧中盡享榴槤香濃又香滑的精華! 回到雲頂高原,食的選擇則更豐富。不過我這次做資料搜集可算失策,查看多個英文網頁皆寫雲頂美食匱乏,甚至應該在山腳搭吊車的鎮填肚才上山,所以根本不知雲頂有什麼非嚐不可的食肆,而且我們剛上到山沒多久便覺肚餓,但因相信資料,連美式炸雞也光顧(雖也點了些有當地特色的食物),真令我們後悔。我不禁懷疑,那些評論是誰寫的,這麼離譜! 雲頂眾多食肆之一 雲頂除了吃,玩樂選擇也非常豐富,全集中在纜車站的大樓。我小時候已聽到什麼歌手到雲頂登台表演,所以那天也看到好幾張演唱會海報。喜歡碰運氣的,那裡有賭場,我們坐長途巴士時也聽得出有兩個上年紀的正有打算進賭場玩一下。此外,大樓有一個敞大的室內遊樂場,商場內名店琳琅滿目,消磨一整天甚至兩三天也沒問題。要住宿的話,雲頂有家號稱最世界最大、有最多客房的酒店,正反映旅遊業有多發達了。 ...