After a 4-hour train journey, my parents and I left the canals of Venice and arrived in the urban maze that is Rome. The first thing we had to adjust ourselves to was the hectic and sometimes lawless traffic. We lost count of how many cars were spotted parking illegally, particularly those at the zebra crossings. We just had to tread the roads with extra care. Lawlessness of traffic, however, paled in comparison to the general lawlessness on the streets, and we had memorable experiences of the latter during our 3 days in Rome. Our first encounter with the dark side of Rome was on Via della Conciliazione, not far from the Vatican. Just as we were about to cross the road and were too busy chatting, my dad felt that the zip of his waist pouch was being opened and our 3 passports disappeared without a trace! Of course we were very scared, and could only think of walking back Via della Conciliazione in the hope that the passports were dumped or accidentally dropped there. Soon after our sea