After spending time in Cologne and Düsseldorf, it was time for 2 weeks of work in my old lab in Munich. Time flew by really quickly and soon I was on my way to Lisbon for 4 days of holiday. I chose Lisbon because I wanted to visit an old friend whom I haven’t seen for more than 2 years and who seems to keep drifting about in the world. The other reason was to see for myself how similar Lisbon is to Macau, a former colony of Portugal.
遊過科隆和杜塞爾多夫後，又回到慕尼黑老地方公幹做實驗，兩星期時間過得真快，之後便到葡萄牙里斯本遊玩四天。我到里斯本的原因，一來是為了探一個兩年多沒見、四處飄泊的朋友，二來很想探究一下澳門和里斯本有多相似。
Macau is famed for its colonial-era flair and it is indeed possible to find some similar architecture and streetscape in Lisbon. However, the differences are so much greater that, one day when I asked a waiter who actually travels to Hong Kong and Macau every year the question how similar it is between Macau and Lisbon, he said not at all!
常言道澳門保留了很多殖民地的歷史色彩，澳門倒真的有一兩分像里斯本，但很多方面分別就大了，我在里斯本有天吃午飯時跟一個侍應閒聊，他每年都到香港和澳門一次學功夫，我問他澳門像不像里斯本，他說一點也不像！
Lisbon is far larger than Macau with so much more open space thanks to its many parks and squares, very fitting for a capital city. Starting from the banks of Rio Tejo (Tagus River), the first of the many open spaces is the Praça do Comércio (Commercial Square). It is also known as the Terreiro do Paço (Palace Square) as it used to be surrounded by the Paço da Ribeira (Palace of the River) up to the Lisbon Earthquake in 1755. The square would have enabled an unobstructed view of the surroundings including the opposite side of the Tagus River, and been appropriate for the function and style of the former palace.
里斯本的面積遠比澳門大，廣場和公園既多又敞大，很有首都的氣勢，而且令城市顯得開揚，尤其是臨近特茹河畔（Rio Tejo，英語稱Tagus River）的商業廣場（Praça do Comércio），前稱皇宮廣場（Terreiro do Paço），在1755年里斯本大地震前，圍繞廣場的是里韋拉皇宮（Paço da Ribeira，意為河之宮），站在廣場中央遙望對岸，視野瞭闊無阻，實在配合皇宮的氣派和格局。
Continuing the way through the arch (Arco da Rua Augusta) and the old town area to the north of Praça do Comércio, one would come to the Praça de Dom Pedro IV (King Pedro IV Square) . Farther up north at the end of the Avenida da Liberdade (Liberty Avenue) is the Parque Eduardo VII (Edward VII Park, named after the visiting British monarch). The top of this sloped park commands the view of the entire Lisbon city centre and Tagus River.
穿過廣場北面的拱門（Arco da Rua Augusta），經過舊城區，來到佩德羅四世廣場（Praça de Dom Pedro IV），再一直沿自由大道（Avenida da Liberdade）往北走到盡頭，便是愛德華七世公園（Parque Eduardo VII），沿著園內的斜坡走到最頂，回頭一望，里斯本市中心和特茹河一覽無遺。
To the left (west) of the Praça de Dom Pedro IV, there is a path (Calçada do Duque) which is a series of steps leading uphill from the Central de Rossio railway station past a row of small shops and restaurants. The path ends at the Largo Trinidade Coelho square. Its location and layout, together with the myriad of narrow and step laneways criss-crossing the 3- or 4-storey residences, did remind me of the Largo de Santo Agostinho in Macau. A bit farther on there is a small park and viewing point (Miradouro de Saõ Pedro da Alcântara) where the view opens up to the Castelo de Saõ Jorge on the other side of the city centre.
在佩德羅四世廣場往左拐，經過羅西奧火車站（Central de Rossio），取道蜿蜒的樓梯路Calçada do Duque上山，途經一列小商店和餐廳走到盡頭，便是Trinidade Coelho廣場（Largo Trinidade Coelho），廣場的地理位置和格局，再加上附近很多又窄又斜的街道穿插於矮矮的樓房之間，倒令我想起澳門崗頂前地。再往過一點走，便來到一個小公園暨觀景臺（Miradouro de Saõ Pedro da Alcântara），遙望舊城區另一邊的聖若熱城堡（Castelo de Saõ Jorge）。
The Castelo is visible from all over the city and is built on a hill which has been inhabited since a few centuries BC. The Castelo comprises a fortress and, earlier in history, a palace. The fortress was first erected by the invading Moorish people in the 11th century as a military post. The palace was built originally in the 13th century after the Portuguese recaptured Lisbon, but following a few earthquakes and moving the royal residence to the palace by Tagus River, the palace fell into disrepair and eventually only its ruins were left behind. In contrast, the fortress is still standing largely intact and it is possible to walk along the labyrinth of parapets connecting the watch towers. The terrace of the fortress and the watch towers are some of the best vantage points for both sides of the Tagus River, so it was little wonder that the site was chosen for building the castle. While the views from the castle were nice, the full force of the wind felt there was not!
聖若熱城堡從市區無論哪裡舉頭即見，附近一帶山頭，早在公元前幾個世紀已有人定居，城堡包括堡壘和昔日的皇宮，堡壘先由摩爾人於11世紀興建，作為軍事要塞，待葡萄牙人重新佔據里斯本後，皇宮便於13世紀興建，但後來皇宮遷到特茹河畔，再經歷幾場大地震後，皇宮日漸失修，今時今日祇剩下遺址一個，堡壘則大致保持完好。各瞭望塔之間有小路連接，有如個小迷宮，堡壘幾個瞭望塔和城堡的瞭望平臺都是俯瞰里斯本市區和特茹河對岸的上佳地點，怪不得當年會挑選此地建城堡了，不過由於毫無遮擋，那裡風勢也特別強勁！
The panoramic views from the terrace 瞭望臺一望無際的景色
The most glorious part of Portuguese history, namely the Age of Exploration, left its mark in the Belém district west of Lisbon city centre. The river banks of Belém was where the explorers set off their voyages during the 15th to 16th century, and now a monument (Padrão dos Descobrimentos, or Monument to the Discoveries) has been erected to commemorate the navigators and other important contributors to the seafaring efforts. Farther along the banks from the monument, the Torre de Belém (Belém Tower) used to provide important defence for the port of Belém as well as Lisbon. Its architecture resembled a ship, which can be particularly appreciated when looking down to the terrace of the Tower and the Tagus River from the top of the tower, where I felt as if I were in control of a sailing vessel.
葡萄牙歷史上最光輝、西進發現新大陸的年代，在里斯本市區以西的貝倫區（Belém）留下了遺跡。貝倫區河畔在15、16世紀的航海年代出海的地方，河畔豎立的發現者紀念碑（Padrão dos Descobrimentos），便紀念了當年著名的航海家和其他重要人物，稍遠一點的貝倫塔（Torre de Belém），就是當年保護貝倫區港口以至里斯本的防禦工事，整座塔的設計也很像一艘船，尤其是站在塔頂時，望著下面的璧壘平臺和特茹河，便有一種在船頂控制室指揮航行的感覺。
Away from the river bank, the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Hieronymites Monastery) and the adjoining Church of Santa Maria are further testaments to the glories of the Age of Exploration as they were built with the wealth from the explorations and the church was a place of prayer for those entering and leaving the port of Belém. The monastery was transferred to the new parish of Belém following the secularisation of the Order of St. Jerome and is now open to public along with the Church of Santa Maria. The monastery was not particularly large, but the architecture and décors of every corner managed to capture my attention and slow my pace down on my visit. It also reminded me of a monastery that I visited in Toledo, Spain in 2007.
離河畔一點的大教堂，就是熱羅尼莫斯修道院（Mosteiro dos Jerónimos）和相連的聖瑪利亞教堂，大教堂靠當年航海帶回來的財富而建，也是當年出海前海員祈福的地方，若說是葡萄牙人的天后廟也頗貼切。修道院早在百多年前隨著熱羅尼莫教派解散而歸貝倫教區管轄，現在連同聖瑪利亞教堂成為世界文化遺產，開放予公眾參觀，修道院地方雖然不大，但每個角落的建築和裝飾都吸引我的眼球，令我流連忘返，也教我回想起07年在西班牙托雷多參觀過的另一家建築特色相近的修道院。
Lisbon has allowed me to appreciate the real Portuguese history and heritage, having caught glimpses of it through the colonial heritage of Macau in the past. There’s more to offer in places just outside Lisbon, and that’s what I’ll write about next.
里斯本讓我領略到真真正正的葡萄牙歷史和文化特色，相比下在澳門看到的，是殖民地的色彩，各有千秋。里斯本附近還有其他值得一遊的地方，待我下篇續寫。
遊過科隆和杜塞爾多夫後，又回到慕尼黑老地方公幹做實驗，兩星期時間過得真快，之後便到葡萄牙里斯本遊玩四天。我到里斯本的原因，一來是為了探一個兩年多沒見、四處飄泊的朋友，二來很想探究一下澳門和里斯本有多相似。
Macau is famed for its colonial-era flair and it is indeed possible to find some similar architecture and streetscape in Lisbon. However, the differences are so much greater that, one day when I asked a waiter who actually travels to Hong Kong and Macau every year the question how similar it is between Macau and Lisbon, he said not at all!
常言道澳門保留了很多殖民地的歷史色彩，澳門倒真的有一兩分像里斯本，但很多方面分別就大了，我在里斯本有天吃午飯時跟一個侍應閒聊，他每年都到香港和澳門一次學功夫，我問他澳門像不像里斯本，他說一點也不像！
Lisbon is far larger than Macau with so much more open space thanks to its many parks and squares, very fitting for a capital city. Starting from the banks of Rio Tejo (Tagus River), the first of the many open spaces is the Praça do Comércio (Commercial Square). It is also known as the Terreiro do Paço (Palace Square) as it used to be surrounded by the Paço da Ribeira (Palace of the River) up to the Lisbon Earthquake in 1755. The square would have enabled an unobstructed view of the surroundings including the opposite side of the Tagus River, and been appropriate for the function and style of the former palace.
里斯本的面積遠比澳門大，廣場和公園既多又敞大，很有首都的氣勢，而且令城市顯得開揚，尤其是臨近特茹河畔（Rio Tejo，英語稱Tagus River）的商業廣場（Praça do Comércio），前稱皇宮廣場（Terreiro do Paço），在1755年里斯本大地震前，圍繞廣場的是里韋拉皇宮（Paço da Ribeira，意為河之宮），站在廣場中央遙望對岸，視野瞭闊無阻，實在配合皇宮的氣派和格局。
Praça do Comércio, day and night 商業廣場的日景和夜景
Continuing the way through the arch (Arco da Rua Augusta) and the old town area to the north of Praça do Comércio, one would come to the Praça de Dom Pedro IV (King Pedro IV Square) . Farther up north at the end of the Avenida da Liberdade (Liberty Avenue) is the Parque Eduardo VII (Edward VII Park, named after the visiting British monarch). The top of this sloped park commands the view of the entire Lisbon city centre and Tagus River.
穿過廣場北面的拱門（Arco da Rua Augusta），經過舊城區，來到佩德羅四世廣場（Praça de Dom Pedro IV），再一直沿自由大道（Avenida da Liberdade）往北走到盡頭，便是愛德華七世公園（Parque Eduardo VII），沿著園內的斜坡走到最頂，回頭一望，里斯本市中心和特茹河一覽無遺。
Arco da Rua Augusta and the old town 廣場北面的Rua Augusta拱門及舊城區
Praça de Dom Pedro IV and the statue of King Pedro IV 佩德羅四世廣場及其紀念碑
Teatro Nacional de Maria II at the northern end of Praça de Dom Pedro IV
佩德羅四世廣場北端的瑪利亞二世國家劇院
Praça dos Restauradores (Restoration Square, left) at the southern end of Avenida da Liberdade (right)
光復廣場（左），位於自由大道最南端（右）
Praça do Marquês de Pombal (Marquis de Pombal Square) and the Parque Eduardo VII, looking in both directions
龐巴爾侯爵廣場及愛德華七世公園
To the left (west) of the Praça de Dom Pedro IV, there is a path (Calçada do Duque) which is a series of steps leading uphill from the Central de Rossio railway station past a row of small shops and restaurants. The path ends at the Largo Trinidade Coelho square. Its location and layout, together with the myriad of narrow and step laneways criss-crossing the 3- or 4-storey residences, did remind me of the Largo de Santo Agostinho in Macau. A bit farther on there is a small park and viewing point (Miradouro de Saõ Pedro da Alcântara) where the view opens up to the Castelo de Saõ Jorge on the other side of the city centre.
在佩德羅四世廣場往左拐，經過羅西奧火車站（Central de Rossio），取道蜿蜒的樓梯路Calçada do Duque上山，途經一列小商店和餐廳走到盡頭，便是Trinidade Coelho廣場（Largo Trinidade Coelho），廣場的地理位置和格局，再加上附近很多又窄又斜的街道穿插於矮矮的樓房之間，倒令我想起澳門崗頂前地。再往過一點走，便來到一個小公園暨觀景臺（Miradouro de Saõ Pedro da Alcântara），遙望舊城區另一邊的聖若熱城堡（Castelo de Saõ Jorge）。
Rossio railway station and the Calçada do Duque 羅西奧火車站及山上的Calçada do Duque樓梯路
Largo Trinidade Coelho
Trinidade Coelho廣場
Miradouro
de Saõ Pedro da Alcântara (left) and the funicular (right) connecting the park to Avenida da Liberdade down the hill
Miradouro
de Saõ Pedro da Alcântara（左）及連接公園至山下自由大道的電車（右）
The narrow streets in the neighbourhood 區內狹窄的街道
The Castelo is visible from all over the city and is built on a hill which has been inhabited since a few centuries BC. The Castelo comprises a fortress and, earlier in history, a palace. The fortress was first erected by the invading Moorish people in the 11th century as a military post. The palace was built originally in the 13th century after the Portuguese recaptured Lisbon, but following a few earthquakes and moving the royal residence to the palace by Tagus River, the palace fell into disrepair and eventually only its ruins were left behind. In contrast, the fortress is still standing largely intact and it is possible to walk along the labyrinth of parapets connecting the watch towers. The terrace of the fortress and the watch towers are some of the best vantage points for both sides of the Tagus River, so it was little wonder that the site was chosen for building the castle. While the views from the castle were nice, the full force of the wind felt there was not!
聖若熱城堡從市區無論哪裡舉頭即見，附近一帶山頭，早在公元前幾個世紀已有人定居，城堡包括堡壘和昔日的皇宮，堡壘先由摩爾人於11世紀興建，作為軍事要塞，待葡萄牙人重新佔據里斯本後，皇宮便於13世紀興建，但後來皇宮遷到特茹河畔，再經歷幾場大地震後，皇宮日漸失修，今時今日祇剩下遺址一個，堡壘則大致保持完好。各瞭望塔之間有小路連接，有如個小迷宮，堡壘幾個瞭望塔和城堡的瞭望平臺都是俯瞰里斯本市區和特茹河對岸的上佳地點，怪不得當年會挑選此地建城堡了，不過由於毫無遮擋，那裡風勢也特別強勁！
The terrace of the castle
城堡的瞭望臺
The panoramic views from the terrace 瞭望臺一望無際的景色
The peacock and peahen stationed permanently at the castle 長駐在城堡的孔雀
The entrance to the fortress 堡壘出入口
One of the parapets (left) and watch towers (right) of the fortress 堡疊上的走廊（左）和瞭望塔（右）
The most glorious part of Portuguese history, namely the Age of Exploration, left its mark in the Belém district west of Lisbon city centre. The river banks of Belém was where the explorers set off their voyages during the 15th to 16th century, and now a monument (Padrão dos Descobrimentos, or Monument to the Discoveries) has been erected to commemorate the navigators and other important contributors to the seafaring efforts. Farther along the banks from the monument, the Torre de Belém (Belém Tower) used to provide important defence for the port of Belém as well as Lisbon. Its architecture resembled a ship, which can be particularly appreciated when looking down to the terrace of the Tower and the Tagus River from the top of the tower, where I felt as if I were in control of a sailing vessel.
葡萄牙歷史上最光輝、西進發現新大陸的年代，在里斯本市區以西的貝倫區（Belém）留下了遺跡。貝倫區河畔在15、16世紀的航海年代出海的地方，河畔豎立的發現者紀念碑（Padrão dos Descobrimentos），便紀念了當年著名的航海家和其他重要人物，稍遠一點的貝倫塔（Torre de Belém），就是當年保護貝倫區港口以至里斯本的防禦工事，整座塔的設計也很像一艘船，尤其是站在塔頂時，望著下面的璧壘平臺和特茹河，便有一種在船頂控制室指揮航行的感覺。
The Monument to the Discoveries (left) and a map mosaic on Portugal's navigation history (right)
發現者紀念碑（左）和葡萄牙航海史地磚（右）
Torre de Belém 貝倫塔
Let's get sailing!
出發！
Away from the river bank, the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Hieronymites Monastery) and the adjoining Church of Santa Maria are further testaments to the glories of the Age of Exploration as they were built with the wealth from the explorations and the church was a place of prayer for those entering and leaving the port of Belém. The monastery was transferred to the new parish of Belém following the secularisation of the Order of St. Jerome and is now open to public along with the Church of Santa Maria. The monastery was not particularly large, but the architecture and décors of every corner managed to capture my attention and slow my pace down on my visit. It also reminded me of a monastery that I visited in Toledo, Spain in 2007.
離河畔一點的大教堂，就是熱羅尼莫斯修道院（Mosteiro dos Jerónimos）和相連的聖瑪利亞教堂，大教堂靠當年航海帶回來的財富而建，也是當年出海前海員祈福的地方，若說是葡萄牙人的天后廟也頗貼切。修道院早在百多年前隨著熱羅尼莫教派解散而歸貝倫教區管轄，現在連同聖瑪利亞教堂成為世界文化遺產，開放予公眾參觀，修道院地方雖然不大，但每個角落的建築和裝飾都吸引我的眼球，令我流連忘返，也教我回想起07年在西班牙托雷多參觀過的另一家建築特色相近的修道院。
Church of Santa Maria 聖瑪利亞教堂
Inside the church
教堂內部
The monastery 修道院
The décors inside the monastery 修道院內部
Lisbon has allowed me to appreciate the real Portuguese history and heritage, having caught glimpses of it through the colonial heritage of Macau in the past. There’s more to offer in places just outside Lisbon, and that’s what I’ll write about next.
里斯本讓我領略到真真正正的葡萄牙歷史和文化特色，相比下在澳門看到的，是殖民地的色彩，各有千秋。里斯本附近還有其他值得一遊的地方，待我下篇續寫。
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