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Drifting along the Rhine (1) - Cologne 順萊茵河而行(1)——科隆

After my trip in the USA and Canada, it was time to head to Munich for work, but before that I spent a couple of days in Cologne (Köln in German, 7th to 8th July) followed by a day in Düsseldorf (9th July) to visit a friend. It gave me a chance to visit this north-western part of Germany since I haven’t really been to much of northern Germany during my 3 years in Munich.
七月美加遊後要到慕尼黑公幹,但公幹開始前先到科隆玩兩天(7月7至8日),然後到杜塞爾多夫(Düseeldorf)探朋友(7月9日),見識一下德國西北部這兩天城市,我從前旅居慕尼黑時甚少到德國北部的地方呢。

Many of Cologne’s main tourist spots are concentrated near the central railway station. Right next to the station stands the imposing Cologne Cathedral (Kölner Dom) and the top of one of its spires is the highest point in Cologne. Just a short walk away is the bridge Hohenzollernbrücke which spans the Rhine River and feeds train traffic to and from the Cologne central railway station. More than just a railway thoroughfare, there is a walkway on either side of the railway tracks separated by a metal mesh fence, where people would literally lock in their loves and romances by leaving all kinds of locks (and even handcuffs) on the fence. Through inscribing on the locks then securing them on the fence, they declare to the whole world, witnessed by all passers-by on the bridge, that their love would withstand the currents of time.
科隆很多旅遊賣點都集中在火車總站附近,從車站甫出來,科隆大教堂便矗立在眼前,其尖塔頂是全科隆的最高點。再走遠一點便是霍亨索倫橋(Hohenzollernbrücke),橫跨萊茵河,那道橋不祇是進出火車總站的火車橋,兩邊還各附有一條行人道,以鐵格欄和火車軌分隔開,欄上繫滿了形形式式的鎖甚至手銬,鎖上還刻了一對對情侶的名字,把一份份的心意向世人宣示,並永恆緊扣於橋上,由所有路過的人作見證。





The Cologne Cathedral 科隆大教堂





Views from the top of the spire, including the Hohenzollernbrücke (left)
塔頂的景色,包括霍亨索倫橋(左)




The sea of love locks 心心相扣


Hohenzollernbrücke is also a lively place with a constant stream of people sauntering, jogging or riding bicycles in either direction. The pillars of the bridge are ideal places for rock climbing, while the quieter ones can enjoy some serenity by the river underneath the bridge.
霍亨索倫橋不祇是表示愛意的地方,也匯聚了很多生氣,橋上行人川流不息,散步的、跑步的、騎腳踏車的不住往返橋的兩端,橋身也有兩三班人玩攀爬活動,好靜的亦可坐在橋底的河畔看書玩音樂,各適其式。



A panoramic view of the Hohenzollernbrücke, the Cologne Cathedral and the Old Town
霍亨索倫橋、科隆大教堂和舊城區全景





A bridge for both the active and  pensive 動靜皆宜的霍亨索倫橋


Other relics of old Cologne include the ancient city gates and a small stretch of the old city wall, scattered about the city centre, but there is not much of them left like many other big German cities.
科隆的古蹟,還包括散布於市區各處的幾個舊城門和一小段古城牆,但和大部份德國大城市一樣,這些遺址已所剩無幾了。


















Cologne is known for the perfume which is named after this city, namely Eau de Cologne. I visited the perfume museum of Farina Gegenüber and joined a guided tour there. The tour guide said that the perfume was an invention by an Italian called Farina who moved to and settled in Cologne. Farina saw a market for a less intense perfume and managed to develop a product that was loved all throughout Europe including by the nobilities. He was grateful to Cologne for his success and thus named the perfume after his adopted home. The tour guide emphasised a few times that the Farina brand was the original Eau de Cologne, and warned us against a false claim by the competing brand 4711!
科隆另一樣有名的是香水,古濃水Eau de Cologne便是以這個城市為名,我參觀過Farina Gegenüber 香水博物館,該館導賞團的導遊說,Farina原是意大利人但到科隆落戶,看中淡味香水有市場便自行調製,並風行全歐洲,Farina便把這種香水以科隆命名以示把香水獻給這個第二故鄉,導遊還反覆強調Farina香水是真正的古濃水始祖,因為有另一隻多叫4711的牌子也聲稱自己才是「原裝正貨」,導遊叫我們別誤信這個對手!



The Farina Gegenüber Museum
香水博物館













The historical relics of Unter Goldschmied, an area where goldsmiths used to congregate, opposite to the perfume museum.
昔時金匠聚居地遺址,在香水博物館對面


The Rhine River which flows beneath Hohenzollernbrücke and other bridges of Cologne is an important lifeblood for Cologne. The old port used to be actually located right next to the Old Town, but it has now moved and only marked by three residential blocks in the shape of cranes. Nowadays the Rhine is still an important transport route for cruise and cargo ships.
流過霍亨索倫橋及市內其他橋下的萊茵河,是科隆的經濟命脈,昔時貨物碼頭便是位於離舊城區不遠的河畔,但碼頭現已搬遷,唯一留下來的痕跡,便是三幢依起重機形狀而建的住宅大廈。時至今日萊茵河仍是交通要道,有不少貨船和游輪出入。



The pretty houses of the Old Town lining the Rhine
萊茵河畔舊城區的老房子











The former port, now transformed 改頭換面的舊碼頭






 The Rhine carrying goods and tourists 萊茵河貨流和人流不斷


My two days in Cologne went very quickly, and it was time to go with the flow of the Rhine to my next destination, Düsseldorf, where more interesting facets of the Rhine awaited. See my next post!
在科隆的兩天轉瞬流走,我也得順流而行,到下一站杜塞爾多夫,萊茵河在那裡有另一番景色,留待網誌下篇再寫!



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