Skip to main content

Weekend escape (1) – Utrecht, Netherlands 週末出走記(1)——荷蘭烏德勒支

After a month in Germany, things are mostly settled and I can start thinking about making weekend trips to visit some good friends. The Netherlands were an obvious choice, because I have a buddy who would put together memorable journeys for each of my last 3 visits. This time there is an extra reason: to visit a city called Utrecht where he and his girlfriend moved to several months ago.
來到德國已一個月,趁週末有空短途外遊一下,探探好友。荷蘭我以前已到過三次了,每次荷蘭好友都會悉心安排行程,這次適逢他搬家到烏德勒支(Utrecht)幾個月,我也因利成便可以到訪荷蘭又一個新地方。

After an overnight train trip (arriving on 8th June), I took a brief pause at my buddy’s place before he and his girlfriend took me on a tour of the city, starting from the canal near their place. They asked me to guess why many drivers would lower the car windows as they drove past the row of houses along that stretch of the canal. It turns out that it was a red light district (which is legal in the Netherlands) and many people were obviously quite curious. But apparently the road was also an accident black spot due to many distracted drivers, especially before a turn-around point was installed at the end of that cul-de-sac!
坐了一夜火車後(6月8日到達),在荷蘭好友家安頓一下,然後他和女友便先帶我到其家附近的運河逛逛。運河沿岸有一列樓房,兩位導遊叫我猜猜為甚麼凡有車駛過,車窗都會打開?原來那裡是紅燈區(在荷蘭是合法的),很多人都會貪有趣飽一下眼福,不過據說從前該路未設置掉頭處時,因為很多司機都會分心而引起意外!
















A canal of distraction
令人分心的水道











Normal residences on water
水上人家











A bridge with an interesting design
設計獨特的橋













The highlight of the day was climbing the Domtoren (Dom Tower, or Church Tower), which is the highest point in Utrecht as well as the tallest church tower in the Netherlands. According to the tour guide of the Dom Tower, the tower was originally joined to a church, but after the destruction of the nave in 1648 by a hurricane, the ruins were finally totally cleared away in the 19th century. Since then the tower became separated from the rest of the church by a square (Domplein) and a road, but the local government has now launched an ambitious project to restore the original construction! The viewing gallery, at 95 m, offered a comprehensive view of Utrecht, and on such a clear day even Amsterdam (some 40 km away) and perhaps Rotterdam were visible. It really underscores how flat the Netherlands is!
當日的重點是要登上市內的最高點,亦是全荷蘭最高的鐘樓,鐘樓的導遊介紹說,那座鐘樓本來與一家教堂相連,但1648年教堂中殿受龍捲風摧毀後,待19世紀當局才決定全面拆卸,自次鐘樓便和教堂其他部分便被一個廣場(Domplein)和馬路分隔,但該市正策劃按當年規格把中殿復修,重展教堂古貌!在95米高的觀景層,全烏德勒支市盡收眼底,而由於天朗氣清,甚至40多公里外的阿姆斯特丹和更遠的鹿特丹也看得到,可見荷蘭地勢有多平坦!






















Different views of the Domtoren  鐘樓在城內顯而易見



One of the middle levels of the tower
鐘樓中間的其中一層













The bells at the top of the tower
鐘樓頂部的鐘





























The area near the Utrecht Central Station (top) and the Oudegracht (Old Canal, right)
烏德勒支火車總站一帶(上)和舊運河一帶(右)






The separation between the tower and the church becomes clear from the top
教堂和鐘樓的分隔,在高空看得一清二楚











As far as the eyes can see - and possibly as far as the Netherlands stretches!
一望無際——不祇是烏德勒支,甚至可能是全荷蘭!










Speaking of restoration, my Dutchie buddy told me that another major projection in Utrecht is the unearthing of a canal which was buried by roads many years ago. This coupled with the works at the Central Station mean lots of traffic diversions in the city centre – and diversions that change all the time!
說到復修,荷蘭好友說市內有另一大工程,便是令原已埋沒的一道古運河重見天日,再加上火車總站也進行工程,所以市中心不少地方有交通改道,而且會不斷改動。

We also went for a walk along the Oudegracht (Old Canal) and the nearby neighbourhoods before and after climbing the Domtoren. Along the canal there was a terrace level where the shops and roads were located, and a waterside level which restaurants, cafés and even yoga classes happily make use of! It wasn’t only the roads and shops which were filled with people, but also the canal where people were getting into the flow (quite literally) in all sorts of vessels. Everyone was able to enjoy the relaxing atmosphere of the canal in their own ways.
登鐘樓前後,我們三人在貫穿市中心的舊運河(Oudegracht)及附近一帶閒逛,運河最大的特色,是沿河的道路分成兩層,一層接近河面,一層較高,較高那層主要是商店和馬路,河面那層很多地方就給食肆擺了露天座席,甚至瑜珈班也可在河畔舉行!沿河的道路固然熙攘,但運河中各式小艇和觀光船也川流不息,自已划艇的也不少,看來大家都很享受運河悠閒的氣息啊。





Sint-Augustinuskerk (St. Augustine Church) by the Oudegracht
舊運河畔的聖奧古斯丁教堂















The city hall (Stadhuis) and nearby shops
市政廳和附近的商店











Sculptures as pillars
以雕塑作支柱
















Hanengeschrei, the shortest street in Utrecht and place for a popular café
全市最短的街Hanengeschrei,亦是喝茶的好地點










Zwaansteeg, the narrowest alley in Utrecht. Utrecht is filled with many small alleys.
全市最狹的橫巷Zwaansteeg,市內還有不少類似的小巷
















Enjoying the peace and quiet near the old De Boog brewery (right) and the junction of Oudegracht and Vecht (below)
運河畔的寧靜:舊De Boog啤酒廠附近(右)和Oudegracht與Vecht兩條運河的交界(下)





















Enjoying a dinner by the canal, watching boats and waterfowls pass by
在運河畔一邊看著來往的船隻和水鳥,一邊享用晚餐










No visit to the Netherlands is complete without at least a glimpse of a windmill!
沒看過風車,怎算到過荷蘭?

















The next day it was our turn for some canoeing. My hosts drove to a river slightly out of town, hired a 3-person canoe and slowly drifted off into the idyllic countryside. Along the way we passed under several bridges, and greeted coming rowers and waterfowls in the water as well as plenty of those jogging and strolling along the river. Our destination was a restaurant serving Dutch pancakes (pannenkoeken), where we were there we parked our canoe and enjoyed a hearty traditional lunch for an hour before turning back. What a pity I didn’t take any photos because I decided that it wasn’t worth the risk of drowning my camera!
第二天輪到我們三人划艇了,好友帶我都離市中心遠一點的地方,租了一艘三人獨木舟,沿著河道,穿過一個個橋底,跟迎面而來的人和水鳥逐一打招呼後,不經不覺慢慢游離繁囂,來到郊外一家吃荷蘭薄餅(Pannenkoeken)的館子,泊好獨木舟後,慢慢享受一頓地道午餐,然後回程。看來荷蘭人挺喜歡水上運動或畔水而行,不論是划著不同種類的艇或沿著河畔散步或跑步的人可不少。可惜為免出甚麼意外,我並沒有帶同照相機,不然把行程拍下來留念有多好!

After canoeing we visited the Utrechtse Botanische Tuinen (Utrecht Botanical Gardens). Flowers were blooming everywhere inside, but the most eye-catching colour was violet and the multiple shades of it. Nature was showing its marvels again there. I’ve uploaded the photos of many of those flowers in this online album.
划艇後我們一同前往烏德勒支植物公園參觀,園內到處都開滿了花,但似乎紫色的花特別多,而且顏色呈現多種層次,又紫中偏紅至紫中偏藍都有,大自然再次展現其奧妙,我把這些花的照片收錄在這個網上相簿






















Of course the Botanical Gardens also had flowers of other colours if you don't like violet!
不喜歡紫色,花園內的花還有其他顏色選擇!















































The Botanical Gardens are also home to some adorable animals!
除了植物,園內也有可愛的動物!











Two days passed by quickly but have once again left me with a memorable impression on the Netherlands. It amazed me how I could keep discovering new things in such a small country, and I wonder what I will see the next time I visit there!
兩天過得很快,但也很充實,荷蘭國土雖然不大,但每次都看到不同的風貌,不知下一次看到的會是甚麼?

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

正字正確

廣州最近掀起保衛廣東話運動,早前星期日明報副刊一篇 文章 ,已對此作了精譬分析,我也不必插嘴了。 不過我想談談另一個相連的問題,相信久不久也會困擾好些港人,就是怎樣才算「正確」、「正統」的書面語。 我們自少便被老師耳提面命,廣東話絕不可用於寫作(雖然現在大行其道,我在網上留言甚至偶而寫電郵都會用廣東話),粵語和港式詞彙應以書面語(以普通話為標準的用語)取代,於是把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜,諸如此類,從小已習慣,我也沒異議。 但香港實在很多獨有的或跟國內有差別的詞彙,應用於主要給香港人看的場合當然沒問題,但國內或其他華人就可能覺得蹩腳甚至不一定明白。同樣國內的好些用詞,港人看到也會覺得有點不自然甚至礙眼。我寫網誌不時都會掙扎,究竟用國內的用詞好(我想一般來說應該是比較「正規」的,而且近幾年跟來自國內的人多了交往,或多或少都學到一點他們的用語),還是香港的說法好(始終不少讀者都是香港人,用上國內的詞語他們或許會覺得有點怪怪的),所以我盡可能兩者兼用,港式說法通常以括號並列,但我有時祇會用國內的用詞,也有時祇用香港的說法,可見我也往往拿不定主意。 問題是應該怎樣劃界線,區別「正確」和「不正確」的書面用語呢?我們應該遵從甚麼的「標準」?比方說在香港,學生寫了一句「我的志願是太空人」,公認是沒有問題的,老師一般也不會勉強學生寫「我的志願是航天員」,好了,這樣便是承認了香港和國內的用語確有區別,但既然如此,為甚麼把該句寫成「我嘅志願係太空人」時,老師便一定不會容許?又或者為甚麼寫作時硬要把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜?這道界線是誰定的,定立時又有甚麼理據?香港可不像很多國家般,有一個高高在上的法定語文機構(例如法國的Académie française),又或有權威性的詞典(例如英國的牛津字典,和國內的辭海),對語文作出一定規範,難免令人寫作時感到無所適從,甚麼香港和粵語詞彙可以用於書面、哪些不可。 用語的取向,也涉及文化取態的問題,我像一般港人一樣也認同寫作時要用書面語,盡量跟隨普通話的「標準」,但不會全盤用國內的詞彙和行文,一來不習慣,二來不免總有種維護本土文化的潛意識,特別是香港和國內社會制度上和文化上始終有點隔閡,這種矛盾不一定輕易化解。 究竟甚麼才算是「標準」、「正確」的書面中文,我想大概沒有「標準答案」,往往靠個人的見識和學養才可作出定奪,但隨著香港跟國內交往越來越...

Newborn, new experiences (1) 新生兒,新體會(1)

The birth of our daughter at the end of September marks a new chapter and brings about new life experiences for me and my wife. 小女9月底出生,為我和太太揭開人生新一章,也帶來新的體驗。 Mum was admitted to a nearby public hospital for the birth. The maternity ward is a lifely and buzzling place, subdivided into many rooms occupied by up to 4 mums and their babies at a time. Visiting hours is from 08:00 to 20:00, and up to one person can visit at one time and two different people each day. These limitations are part of the hospital's covid policies when the rest of the society has moved on as if nothing had happened - apparently there used to be no limit to visitations before covid, so a dad could in fact accompany the mum and baby all night long. One long-lasting impression from the maternity ward was the symphony of baby cries in which all babies took their turns to join including mine. Calming down the baby was almost impossible in this ambience and was very tough on mum especially when she was battling her...

吉隆坡(2)——離不開食

到吉隆坡旅遊,有什麼好做? 當然是入鄉隨俗,吃個飽!當你見到宜家家具店餐廳佔用兩層樓面,你也不禁懷疑,馬來西亞的宜家主要賣家具還是食物! 就算是到宗教的地方遊覽,食也是重要的一環! 其中一天我們到市邊錘的黑風洞(Batu Caves),那裡的重點是272級七彩階梯和梯頂的山洞。走進山洞,地面的嘈音和熱力頓然被清幽和清涼取代,很是洗滌心靈。不過到走回到山下時,看到很多人都輪着買新鮮椰子水,我也覺得,滿足心靈後也應滿足口福,給自己買一個即場砍開的椰子喝。 另一天的行程是到一小時車程外的雲頂高原作一天遊,除了山上的花花世界,山腰的岩水寺也同樣可以讓人暫時拋離現實世界,都是值得參觀。坐長途巴前往的雲頂高原要轉乘吊車登頂,但正值新的登山吊車年度維修,不可以直接搭吊車到岩水寺,唯有搭舊吊車到山頂後雇計程車前往。一口氣登頂,愈靠近山頂愈見到更多的雲霧飄過,雲頂此名果然起得沒錯! 下山時霧更濃 建岩水寺的人,真懂得選址,在山腰,背靠雲頂,面向山下,盡收大地精華以及四周山色。寺廟之地,有齋菜吃絕不為奇,但此地還可容下其他小食、 星巴克咖啡甚至榴槤攤檔,我也把握機會買一個新鮮榴槤現場吃,在寺的安寧中盡享榴槤香濃又香滑的精華! 回到雲頂高原,食的選擇則更豐富。不過我這次做資料搜集可算失策,查看多個英文網頁皆寫雲頂美食匱乏,甚至應該在山腳搭吊車的鎮填肚才上山,所以根本不知雲頂有什麼非嚐不可的食肆,而且我們剛上到山沒多久便覺肚餓,但因相信資料,連美式炸雞也光顧(雖也點了些有當地特色的食物),真令我們後悔。我不禁懷疑,那些評論是誰寫的,這麼離譜! 雲頂眾多食肆之一 雲頂除了吃,玩樂選擇也非常豐富,全集中在纜車站的大樓。我小時候已聽到什麼歌手到雲頂登台表演,所以那天也看到好幾張演唱會海報。喜歡碰運氣的,那裡有賭場,我們坐長途巴士時也聽得出有兩個上年紀的正有打算進賭場玩一下。此外,大樓有一個敞大的室內遊樂場,商場內名店琳琅滿目,消磨一整天甚至兩三天也沒問題。要住宿的話,雲頂有家號稱最世界最大、有最多客房的酒店,正反映旅遊業有多發達了。 ...