I spent 8 days touring the Netherlands during the Christmas and New Year period. Let me talk about it, starting from my first destination.
I departed from Munich on an overnight train on Christmas night, and arrived in Amsterdam the next morning. Sharing the same cabin with me on the train was a group of 5 from Slovenia. We had some lively conversations, and just before reaching Amsterdam I asked them to exchange some Slovenian euro coins with me. Slovenia joined the euro zone last year, and since then its euro coins have attracted interest from everyone they come across with. Those Slovenian tourists joked that their own euro coins may well disappear from their own soil if Slovenians keep giving out those coins to the foreigners!
My very first impression on Amsterdam came from the very steep staircases, from the hotel I stayed to all the older buildings around the city. While the original purpose is to maximise floor space, I'm sure the stairs wouldn't be much appreciated by those with mobility problems or tourists arriving with a huge suitcase! During the canal tour around the many waterways of the city, the captain pointed out to us the hooks hanging from the roofs of the buildings, used for moving furniture or other bulky items into and out of the buildings. The waterways were lined by one continuous row of buildings after another, and at some places we could see 'drunken houses' or 'dancing houses' leaning towards and clinging with each other like a group of drunkards or dancers. Those houses came about as their foundations sank unevenly with the ground and brought the houses down with them.
After the canal tour, I visited the Anne Frank Huis (Anne Frank House), one of the many hiding places by the Jews that fled to the Netherlands from Nazi prosecution during the Second World War. A young girl at the time, Anna Frank kept a diary on how her family lived on and maintained their business under the threats of war, up to the time when their hide-out was leaked to the German Security Police. The dim lightings, tiny rooms, steep stairs (again!) and the many items on display helped to give an impression of what life would have been like in the house.
Then I went for a stroll among the many little streets in the city. With the relatively light vehicular and tourist traffic, I was able to take my course leisurely over whichever bridge or along whichever canal I wished. I found myself surrounded by strings of narrow 3- to 4-storey houses and many pretty boutiques, which reminded me somewhat of the classier parts of Paris. The myriad of canals, bridges and little streets made for a subtle variety to the streetscape across the town, unique to Amsterdam.
Later on I made my way to the Oosterdok (Eastern Docklands) area which, in a complete change of scenery, was filled with modern residential buildings. Some buildings boasted unique designs; some came with balconies decorated with original black-and-white photography; some were terraced houses (townhouses) but with the ground floor turned into a garage, storage room or even a small garden; and those built right on the banks of the waterways featured private boat berths, à la Venice but a lot more modern. I almost thought I walked into the countryside the next day, when my friend and I were lost on the way to the Rijksmuseum (Royal Museum). We found ourselves in a quiet street, standing on a lush green bank of a waterway, looking over a row of rather large detached houses lining the opposite side. By that time, I was suitably impressed by the architectural variety around Amsterdam!
The Rijksmuseum also left me a good impression with its collection of paintings by Dutch artists, who seemed to be more down to earth and preferred themes on historical events, landscape and personal portraits. What a refreshing change it was from the mythical and heavenly paintings that feature so prominently in many other famous museums of Italy and France. At least it was easier to understand what is going on in the real-life paintings. One thing I didn't understand, however, was the Dutch artists' penchant for painting dining tables. I only wished that Italian and French artists could do the same - that would definitely be much more interesting than the rather bland Dutch dining scenes!
聖誕新年期間到荷蘭玩了八天，先由第一站談起吧。
我乘過夜火車，12月25日晚從慕尼黑出發，翌晨抵達阿姆斯特丹，與我坐在同一包廂的5人來自斯洛文尼亞，大家有說有笑，臨到達時我問他們交換斯洛文尼亞版歐元硬幣——斯洛文尼亞去年加入歐元區，那班斯洛文尼亞人說，每逢他們外遊，其他人總不免貪新鮮要索取幾枚，長此下去，他們的歐元硬幣很可能從自己國土消失！
阿姆斯特丹給我的第一個印象，就是樓梯比一般陡斜，不祇是下榻的酒店，原來不少較舊的樓宇也如此，目的是盡用樓宇面積，不過行動不便或要挽行李上落樓梯的人肯定怨聲載道！從酒店對面乘觀光艇穿梭阿姆斯特丹縱橫交錯的水道時，船長着我們留意，樓宇頂部都掛了個鉤，方便吊運家具及其他大型物品。觀光艇駛過之處，建築物盡是密密麻麻，有些地方由於輕微陸沈，樓宇樁柱連帶樓宇出現傾斜，形成一排歪倒的「醉翁屋」或「跳舞屋」，彷如站也站不穩的醉翁，或一班摟着腰一同跳舞的人。
遊船河後取道往安娜．佛郎克故居（Anne Frank Huis）。二次大戰時，不少在荷蘭的猶太人為躲避德軍逼害，便躲在平房中，與世隔絕，而當年是少女的安娜．佛郎克把經歷寫成聞名的日記，記錄她一家如何在戰爭的陰霾下生活及經營家族生意，直至有人洩露其藏身之處後的下場。安娜．佛郎克故居內昏暗的燈光、狹小的居室、陡斜的樓梯（！）及各樣展品，構建着一幕幕當年的情景。
之後在市內迂迴的小巷閒逛，那時遊人和車輛都不多，我帶着優悠閑的心情，隨心所慾地穿梭不同的小橋和水道，途經一排排挨在一起、窄窄的、三四層樓高的房屋及眾多精緻的商店，忽然覺得有點巴黎橫街小巷悠閑高雅的氣息，而每跨過一道橋，拐到新的水道或街道，景色都略有不同，這正是阿姆斯特丹的另一個特色吧。
後來又到市內的東船塢區（Oosterdok），那裡盡是新式的建築，有些外表獨特新穎，有些的露台由黑白相片裝飾，有些是平凡的排屋，但地下那層是多用途、讓人隨意發揮的車房、雜物房及花園，最有趣的，還是有私家碼頭、停了小艇的房屋，彷彿是摩登版的威尼斯，而翌日朋友帶我往皇家博物館途中，誤打誤撞走進了一條幽靜的街道，但見一列獨立的大房子沿着水道而立，在市區中央突然出現郊外的景緻，阿姆斯特丹的景色和建築，堪稱多姿多采！
皇家博物館的展覽也同樣令我大開眼界，館內展出的畫，由荷蘭名師所繪，題材環繞歷史、人物素像、山水，盡是寫實作品，在意大利、法國著名博物館看到有關宗教、神話作品，看得多也看得膩，而且往往不盡明白其含意，相比下，還是寫實畫較為親切了。我倒好奇，荷蘭畫家甚喜歡以餐桌為題，奈何烹飪並非荷蘭的強項，難道他們想畫餅充饑？
Amsterdam by the water 與水相依的阿姆斯特丹
The pier at Damrak from which the canal tour started
遊船河從Damrak碼頭出發
The waters near Oosterdok, featuring a floating Chinese restaurant (top left) and the science museum (left)
東船塢區附近水域，有一所海上中式食肆（左上）及科學博物館（左）
Some of the many bridges around the city, including the famous Magere Brug (the 'Lean Bridge)
市內眾多橋道，包括有名的窄橋（Magere Brug）
Watch towers 瞭望塔
Left: a hook on the roof 左：屋頂的鉤
Right: a house within a house (have a look at the gable!) 右：屋中有屋（細看屋頂下的標誌！）
Left: the Old Church (Oude Kerk) 左：舊教堂
Right: the Anna Frank Huis 右：安娜．佛郎克故居
Drunken houses, the leaning towers of Amsterdam, and sinking feelings!
阿姆斯特丹岌岌可危的房屋
Then there are sunken boats! 船隻也不幸免！
Countryside in the city 市區中也有郊野
Around the Oosterdok 東船塢區附近
A windmill and a brewery (yes, home brew!)
風車及私家釀酒房
The Whale residential building
鯨魚住宅大廈
A bridge that shapes like the back of some animal
橋身像某動物的背脊嗎？
Boring terraced housing but with distinctive usage of ground floors
平凡的排屋，也有不平凡
What Venice may look like if it ever undergoes a complete urban redevelopment
威尼斯若整體重建，也會不會變成這樣子？
Someone's watching from the balcony!
小心有人監視！
Desks for the tallest people in the world!
荷蘭人個子高，書桌自然高（而大）人一等
Other places in Amsterdam 阿姆斯特丹其他景色
The Begijnhof, previously occupied by nuns, and now a residence for single women
修女院，現為單身婦女之居
The Royal Palace (Paleis op de Dam) 皇宮
Left: the New Church (Nieuwe Kerk) adjacent to the Palace 左：皇宮毗鄰的新教堂
Right: Magna Plaza shopping centre near the New Church 右：新教堂附近的商場
The Rijksmuseum (Royal Museum) 皇家博物館
The sculpture of the most famous painting of Rijksmuseum, namely the Night Watch (de Nachwacht) by Rembrandt, located at the Rembrandtplein (Rembrandt Square)
皇家博物館最有名的畫De Nachwacht，被製成銅像，放置在倫勃朗廣場(Rembrandtplein)
The Flower Market 花卉市場
Sow the seeds of the Netherlands! 種瓜得瓜……
I departed from Munich on an overnight train on Christmas night, and arrived in Amsterdam the next morning. Sharing the same cabin with me on the train was a group of 5 from Slovenia. We had some lively conversations, and just before reaching Amsterdam I asked them to exchange some Slovenian euro coins with me. Slovenia joined the euro zone last year, and since then its euro coins have attracted interest from everyone they come across with. Those Slovenian tourists joked that their own euro coins may well disappear from their own soil if Slovenians keep giving out those coins to the foreigners!
My very first impression on Amsterdam came from the very steep staircases, from the hotel I stayed to all the older buildings around the city. While the original purpose is to maximise floor space, I'm sure the stairs wouldn't be much appreciated by those with mobility problems or tourists arriving with a huge suitcase! During the canal tour around the many waterways of the city, the captain pointed out to us the hooks hanging from the roofs of the buildings, used for moving furniture or other bulky items into and out of the buildings. The waterways were lined by one continuous row of buildings after another, and at some places we could see 'drunken houses' or 'dancing houses' leaning towards and clinging with each other like a group of drunkards or dancers. Those houses came about as their foundations sank unevenly with the ground and brought the houses down with them.
After the canal tour, I visited the Anne Frank Huis (Anne Frank House), one of the many hiding places by the Jews that fled to the Netherlands from Nazi prosecution during the Second World War. A young girl at the time, Anna Frank kept a diary on how her family lived on and maintained their business under the threats of war, up to the time when their hide-out was leaked to the German Security Police. The dim lightings, tiny rooms, steep stairs (again!) and the many items on display helped to give an impression of what life would have been like in the house.
Then I went for a stroll among the many little streets in the city. With the relatively light vehicular and tourist traffic, I was able to take my course leisurely over whichever bridge or along whichever canal I wished. I found myself surrounded by strings of narrow 3- to 4-storey houses and many pretty boutiques, which reminded me somewhat of the classier parts of Paris. The myriad of canals, bridges and little streets made for a subtle variety to the streetscape across the town, unique to Amsterdam.
Later on I made my way to the Oosterdok (Eastern Docklands) area which, in a complete change of scenery, was filled with modern residential buildings. Some buildings boasted unique designs; some came with balconies decorated with original black-and-white photography; some were terraced houses (townhouses) but with the ground floor turned into a garage, storage room or even a small garden; and those built right on the banks of the waterways featured private boat berths, à la Venice but a lot more modern. I almost thought I walked into the countryside the next day, when my friend and I were lost on the way to the Rijksmuseum (Royal Museum). We found ourselves in a quiet street, standing on a lush green bank of a waterway, looking over a row of rather large detached houses lining the opposite side. By that time, I was suitably impressed by the architectural variety around Amsterdam!
The Rijksmuseum also left me a good impression with its collection of paintings by Dutch artists, who seemed to be more down to earth and preferred themes on historical events, landscape and personal portraits. What a refreshing change it was from the mythical and heavenly paintings that feature so prominently in many other famous museums of Italy and France. At least it was easier to understand what is going on in the real-life paintings. One thing I didn't understand, however, was the Dutch artists' penchant for painting dining tables. I only wished that Italian and French artists could do the same - that would definitely be much more interesting than the rather bland Dutch dining scenes!
聖誕新年期間到荷蘭玩了八天，先由第一站談起吧。
我乘過夜火車，12月25日晚從慕尼黑出發，翌晨抵達阿姆斯特丹，與我坐在同一包廂的5人來自斯洛文尼亞，大家有說有笑，臨到達時我問他們交換斯洛文尼亞版歐元硬幣——斯洛文尼亞去年加入歐元區，那班斯洛文尼亞人說，每逢他們外遊，其他人總不免貪新鮮要索取幾枚，長此下去，他們的歐元硬幣很可能從自己國土消失！
阿姆斯特丹給我的第一個印象，就是樓梯比一般陡斜，不祇是下榻的酒店，原來不少較舊的樓宇也如此，目的是盡用樓宇面積，不過行動不便或要挽行李上落樓梯的人肯定怨聲載道！從酒店對面乘觀光艇穿梭阿姆斯特丹縱橫交錯的水道時，船長着我們留意，樓宇頂部都掛了個鉤，方便吊運家具及其他大型物品。觀光艇駛過之處，建築物盡是密密麻麻，有些地方由於輕微陸沈，樓宇樁柱連帶樓宇出現傾斜，形成一排歪倒的「醉翁屋」或「跳舞屋」，彷如站也站不穩的醉翁，或一班摟着腰一同跳舞的人。
遊船河後取道往安娜．佛郎克故居（Anne Frank Huis）。二次大戰時，不少在荷蘭的猶太人為躲避德軍逼害，便躲在平房中，與世隔絕，而當年是少女的安娜．佛郎克把經歷寫成聞名的日記，記錄她一家如何在戰爭的陰霾下生活及經營家族生意，直至有人洩露其藏身之處後的下場。安娜．佛郎克故居內昏暗的燈光、狹小的居室、陡斜的樓梯（！）及各樣展品，構建着一幕幕當年的情景。
之後在市內迂迴的小巷閒逛，那時遊人和車輛都不多，我帶着優悠閑的心情，隨心所慾地穿梭不同的小橋和水道，途經一排排挨在一起、窄窄的、三四層樓高的房屋及眾多精緻的商店，忽然覺得有點巴黎橫街小巷悠閑高雅的氣息，而每跨過一道橋，拐到新的水道或街道，景色都略有不同，這正是阿姆斯特丹的另一個特色吧。
後來又到市內的東船塢區（Oosterdok），那裡盡是新式的建築，有些外表獨特新穎，有些的露台由黑白相片裝飾，有些是平凡的排屋，但地下那層是多用途、讓人隨意發揮的車房、雜物房及花園，最有趣的，還是有私家碼頭、停了小艇的房屋，彷彿是摩登版的威尼斯，而翌日朋友帶我往皇家博物館途中，誤打誤撞走進了一條幽靜的街道，但見一列獨立的大房子沿着水道而立，在市區中央突然出現郊外的景緻，阿姆斯特丹的景色和建築，堪稱多姿多采！
皇家博物館的展覽也同樣令我大開眼界，館內展出的畫，由荷蘭名師所繪，題材環繞歷史、人物素像、山水，盡是寫實作品，在意大利、法國著名博物館看到有關宗教、神話作品，看得多也看得膩，而且往往不盡明白其含意，相比下，還是寫實畫較為親切了。我倒好奇，荷蘭畫家甚喜歡以餐桌為題，奈何烹飪並非荷蘭的強項，難道他們想畫餅充饑？
Amsterdam by the water 與水相依的阿姆斯特丹
The pier at Damrak from which the canal tour started
遊船河從Damrak碼頭出發
The waters near Oosterdok, featuring a floating Chinese restaurant (top left) and the science museum (left)
東船塢區附近水域，有一所海上中式食肆（左上）及科學博物館（左）
Some of the many bridges around the city, including the famous Magere Brug (the 'Lean Bridge)市內眾多橋道，包括有名的窄橋（Magere Brug）
Watch towers 瞭望塔
Left: a hook on the roof 左：屋頂的鉤
Right: a house within a house (have a look at the gable!) 右：屋中有屋（細看屋頂下的標誌！）
Left: the Old Church (Oude Kerk) 左：舊教堂
Right: the Anna Frank Huis 右：安娜．佛郎克故居
Drunken houses, the leaning towers of Amsterdam, and sinking feelings!
阿姆斯特丹岌岌可危的房屋
Then there are sunken boats! 船隻也不幸免！
Countryside in the city 市區中也有郊野
Around the Oosterdok 東船塢區附近
A windmill and a brewery (yes, home brew!)
風車及私家釀酒房
The Whale residential building
鯨魚住宅大廈
A bridge that shapes like the back of some animal
橋身像某動物的背脊嗎？
Boring terraced housing but with distinctive usage of ground floors
平凡的排屋，也有不平凡
What Venice may look like if it ever undergoes a complete urban redevelopment
威尼斯若整體重建，也會不會變成這樣子？
Someone's watching from the balcony!
小心有人監視！
Desks for the tallest people in the world!
荷蘭人個子高，書桌自然高（而大）人一等
Other places in Amsterdam 阿姆斯特丹其他景色
The Begijnhof, previously occupied by nuns, and now a residence for single women
修女院，現為單身婦女之居
The Royal Palace (Paleis op de Dam) 皇宮
Left: the New Church (Nieuwe Kerk) adjacent to the Palace 左：皇宮毗鄰的新教堂
Right: Magna Plaza shopping centre near the New Church 右：新教堂附近的商場
The Rijksmuseum (Royal Museum) 皇家博物館
The sculpture of the most famous painting of Rijksmuseum, namely the Night Watch (de Nachwacht) by Rembrandt, located at the Rembrandtplein (Rembrandt Square)皇家博物館最有名的畫De Nachwacht，被製成銅像，放置在倫勃朗廣場(Rembrandtplein)
The Flower Market 花卉市場
Sow the seeds of the Netherlands! 種瓜得瓜……
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