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Something new in good old Munich 人回慕尼黑的新發現

Even though I have lived in Munich for three years before and come for several work trips since then, I managed to uncover even more parts of the city that I’ve never set foot on.
雖然從前在慕尼黑住過三年,而且之後也來公幹好幾次了,但這次仍給我發掘到市內從沒踏足過的地方呢。

These new experiences kicked off on 1st May after witnessing the erection of the May pole (Maibaum) for the first time ever. Wiener Platz, where the ceremony took place, and its surrounds were completely new territory to me, and since I saw a church in the background to the May pole, I decided to set off an exploration starting from that church (called St. Johannes Kirche, or St. John’s Church) . Then I followed the tram track and came to Bordeauxplatz (Bordeaux Square), which is a piece of oblong greenery with tree-lined walking tracks lining the two long sides, a fountain in the middle and flower beds on both ends of the square planted abundantly with colourful flowers. The gentle sunshine and delightful scenery just made me want to stay there forever! Bordeauxplatz was actually only a stone’s throw away from Ostbahnhof (Munich East Railway Station), which I used to frequent. I wondered how I could have neglected this beautiful pocket of town until now!
五月一日那天對我來說便是一個新體驗了,之前不祇連五朔節花柱(Maibaum)的豎立儀式也沒看過,豎立花柱的廣場Wiener Platz及附近一帶我也是不熟悉的,在豎立儀式時看到花柱後有座教堂,在好奇心驅使下,我便往該教堂(St. Johannes Kirche)走過去,然後沿著電車線,來到波爾多廣場(Bordeauxplatz),但見廣場兩旁各種了兩列樹,行人小徑穿過樹下,廣場中央有噴水池,兩端種滿了繽紛的鮮花,柔和的陽光加上賞心悅目的景緻,令人流連忘返。其實波爾多廣場離慕尼黑東站不遠,該火車站從前是我常到的地方,我不禁想我怎麼會一直忽略了這個漂亮的波爾多廣場!























St. Johannes-Kirche  聖約翰教堂

































Bordeauxplatz  波爾多廣場







A few places in Munich have been undergoing renovations or other construction works, and this year they can finally present themselves in a new face, including the St. Michael Church on the Neuhauser Strasse shopping strip and the square to the back of the old town hall (Rathaus). The latter was dug up two years ago for a railway project. There was also an art gallery called Lenbachhaus which re-opened after 2 years of renovation and offered free entry from 8th to 12th May. I paid a visit on the last day of the free period, and although I had to endure a one-hour wait in rain and wind gusts, it was well worth the wait!
慕尼黑市區好些地方經多年翻新或工程後,今年終於再次以新面目見人,包括購物街Neuhauser Strasse的St. Michael教堂,和舊市政廳(Rathaus)後面的草坪(前兩年還在進行鐵路工程)。另有一家藝術館Lenbachhaus,經兩年多翻新後,於5月8至12日重新開張時免費入場,我剛好趕上最後一天,雖然等了一小時,期間還下起一陣大雨,但再辛苦也是值得的!




The façade of St. Michael-Kirche finally sees the light of the day again!
St Michael教堂的正門終於重見天日!
















The back side of the Rathaus
舊市政廳後的廣場












The queue of people to the Lenbachhaus was obviously not deterred by the impending storm!
風雨欲來也無阻參觀Lenbachhaus的人潮




























The courtyard in Lenbachhaus
Lenbachhaus內的庭園










The view of the gate at Königsplatz (King's Square) from the courtyard
從庭園遠望Königsplatz(帝皇廣場)的城門










The gallery was divided into several sections. One was devoted to landscape and other real-life paintings in the early 19th century. The highlight was one whole floor called Der blaue Reiter (The Blue Knight), dedicated to the Jugendstil art work that evolved from Munich at the turn of the 20th century, coinciding with the wider Art Nouveau movement elsewhere in Europe. The artwork of Wassily Kandinsky was featured most prominently in that section, along with that of his contemporaries. Jugendstil took themes from real life but expressed them in a more abstract way that was still comprehensible to me, but the modern art exhibition was mostly beyond my ability to understand and appreciate.
館內分成幾部份,有19世紀初的寫實作品,有一層名為藍騎士Der blaue Reiter的展館,專門展出19世紀未至20世紀初在慕尼黑發揚光大的德國青年風格(Jugendstil,而當時在歐洲其他國家同時流行類似的新藝術運動風格,英語統稱為Art Nouveau),特別是以畫家康定斯基(Wassily Kandinsky)為主軸的作品。青年風格作品,在抽象中仍讓我看到一點現實的背景和意味,但再後來參觀現代藝術展館的抽象作品,我就真的摸不著頭腦。




'Munich after the storm' (1831) - how very fitting with the sudden rain burst which came during my wait for entry but cleared once I was inside!
1831年繪的《風雨過後的慕尼黑》,正好形容入館前一場大風雨!











People's idea of a party out in the wild 200 years ago
二百年前的戶外派對






























Exhibition of modern art work  現代藝術展品






























Kandinsky's works from earlier on to late in his career
康定斯基由較早期到晚期的作品











Art work of Franz von Stuck, Kandinsky's teacher in Munich
Franz von Stuck之作品,他是康定斯基在慕尼黑的老師












Lenbachhaus is named after the portrait painter Franz von Lenbach, who made a living on painting portraits for the nobility and government officials. His former studio now forms part of the Lenbachhaus gallery. After spending more than 3 hours in the gallery, I picked a not so familiar road and went on a small random exploration of town. To continue on the theme of Lenbach, I managed to come across the square called Lenbachplatz before I reached the Rathaus. The new places that I managed to see were an unexpected bonus to me!
Lenbachhaus以畫家Franz von Lenbach為名,他當時專門為政要和貴族人士繪人像,藝術館其中一部份便是他從前的畫室。從藝術館出來,我隨意找了一條不太熟悉的街走,讓雙腿帶領我發掘一片新天地,後來更經過以Lenbach命名的廣場Lenbachplatz,再前往舊市政廳一帶,沿途接連不斷的新景象,是那天的額外收獲!




The chandelier in the atrium of Lenbachhaus
Lenbachhaus入門大廳的吊燈






























Lenbach's former studio
Lenbach從前的畫室


















The building for Munich's finance department (Finanzamt) and Bavarian office of taxation service (Landesamt für Steuerndienst)
慕尼黑財政廳和巴伐利亞州稅務部的辦公室





A hairdresser just off Lenbachplatz
Lenbachplatz附近一小巷內的理髮店
























The buildings and fountain around Lenbachplatz
包圍Lenbachplatz的大廈和噴水池























Promenadeplatz (Promenade Square) and the classy Bayerischer Hof hotel
Promenadeplatz廣場和高檔酒店Bayerischer Hof





Originally a statue for composer Orlando di Lassi, now a memorial for Micheal Jackson, as the statue is conveniently located outside the hotel room where Jackson once stayed!
雀巢鳩佔——原是作曲家Orlando di Lassi的銅像,現已成為米高積遜紀念碑,皆因銅像正好在米高積遜從前下塌的房間外!











In a place that one may supposedly have known it all already, it’s always welcoming to find new experiences and new sceneries that give one a fresh perspective on the place. I think that’s also why I never get tired of Munich! 
就算你對一個地方有多熟悉也好,一些新景象、一些新體驗,每每帶來對那個地方的新看法,亦可能正因如此,慕尼黑這個第三個家對我還有種新鮮感!

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