The sun has made only a few appearances during my two weeks in Hong Kong for Chinese New Year. My only Saturday there (28th January) was one of such days, so I made good use of it and continued my rural explorations.
年初六那天，是我回港度歲兩周中少有的大晴天，所以便把握機會繼續「下鄉」。
The West Rail line that runs through the north-western part of the New Territories separates the district of Tin Shui Wai, where I stayed for my visit, into two parts. On one side stand many tall buildings that form the main residential area with less than 20 years of history. On the other side there are several villages of hundreds of years old, all connected together with other historic monuments with the Ping Shan Heritage Trail. Although this Trail is only about 1 km long and walking the whole trail would normally take only 15 minutes, I spent one hour that day and have only seen half of the trail. I had to turn back half-way because I had to meet two other friends for the next excursion; otherwise it would have been nice to see the entire trail!
貫通新界西北的西鐵線，把天水圍切割為二，一邊是屋邨林立的住宅區，建成不夠二十年，另一邊則是數條原有的鄉村，少說也有幾百年歷史了，由屏山文物徑連接起來，雖然祇有短短一公里，以正常步速祇消十五分鐘左右便走完，但文物徑沿途古蹟甚多，我因趕時間祇花了一個多小時，匆匆看到半途便折返，趕往下個目的地，不然能花一整個下午細味一番該處的歷史和鄉郊氣息會多好！
For most visitors, the most convenient starting point of the Trail would be the Tsui Sing Lau Pagoda, which is the only one if its kind in Hong Kong, right beside the Tin Shui Wai West Rail station. After passing the Shrine of the Earth God and the Sheung Cheung Wai village, one would come to a small crest where the Yeung Hau Temple, which commemorates one of the generals of the Sung Dynasty (about 1000 years old), is located. Not far away from there is the 600-odd-year-old Tang Ancestral Hall, built by the Tang clan who first settled in the region about 800 years ago. The Kun Ting Study Hall and adjoining Ching Shu Hin (literally meaning the House of Respite from Summer Heat) are respectively places of study for the clan and accommodation for their guests. At one of the entrances of Ching Shu Hin, there are several red plaques as commendations for achievements in the imperial civil service examinations, held commonly more than 150 years ago by the dynasty for selecting candidates into the administration. The Tang clan has obviously placed much emphasis in education and enjoyed some success.
一般人參觀，最方便的起站是天水圍西鐵站毗鄰的聚星樓，是香港僅有的傳統式塔樓，然後沿路徑經過社壇和上璋圍村，便來到一個小丘上供奉宋代（約一千年前）忠臣、候王楊亮節的楊候古廟，再過不遠便是有六百多年歷史的鄧氏宗祠，屬於在屏山定居了近八百年的鄧氏家族，旁邊的覲廷書室和相連的清暑軒，分別是鄧氏的書室和招待來賓下榻的地方，清暑軒入口的走廊還豎了好幾個刻有科舉功名的紅色功名牌，可見鄧氏挺注重教育，而且還有點成就。
The heritage trail and some of the prominent landmarks 文物徑及沿途數個景點
Unfortunately I ran out of time and had to rush to another district called Yuen Long, to meet my two friends who then took me to Nam Sang Wai, a village mentioned occasionally in my primary school textbooks for its fish ponds and countryside. I have always had the impression that Nam Sang Wai is somewhere pretty remote and out of reach, but in fact it was only a 5- to 7-minute walk from exit G2 of Yuen Long West Rail station!
不過時間無多，約了兩個朋友一同遊南生圍，所以便坐西鐵坐兩個站到元朗去。跟天水圍一樣，西鐵也把元朗市中心大馬路跟鄉郊部分分隔起來。南生圍是我唸小學時語文課本偶而會提起的郊遊地點，滿佈魚塘和荒野，一直給我一種遙不可及的感覺，但事實上從元朗站G2出口走大概祇消五至七分鐘而已！
We saw the sign that told visitors to take a boat just before reaching the village. I was wondering what stretch of water there was at Nam Sang Wai, and soon enough I saw a small river (Shan Pui River) that could only be crossed with boats upon entering the village.
快進村時看到坐街渡小艇的牌，心想那裡除了魚塘何來有水？原來是先要渡河（山貝河）才算正式到達南生圍！
After alighting, we had a short break in a small eatery built above the river near the pier. The river was like a natural sound barrier which had filtered away totally the noise of Yuen Long town centre and left the village with a serene ambiance. But looking back across the river through the haze to Yuen Long town centre, the silhouettes of the high-rises were actually just a stone’s throw away. The hustle and bustle of urban life and tranquillity of the village were only physically separated from each other by less than 1 km but seemed worlds apart. I bet there aren’t so many places in the world which can exhibit such a marked contrast in landscape in such a short distance.
過河後離渡頭不遠的河畔築起一家棚屋，是一家小食店，我和朋友先到那裡吃碗豆腐花。這條河是天然的屏障，把元朗市中心的繁囂和喧鬧與寧靜的鄉村徹底隔絕，但從小食店回頭一望，隔了一層煙霞，一幢幢高樓的灰濛濛輪廓原來近在咫尺，在那短短不足一公里的距離，景觀截然不同，鬧市和鄉郊是這麼近但那麼遠，如此變化，世上相信沒多少地方才見到。
Coming out of the eatery, we followed a path that cut through the mess of waist-height grasses and passed through many trees that showed signs of being burnt before. Fallen tree trunks blocked the path at several places; it wasn’t a big concern for the three of us as we were only walking, but it did make cyclists’ lives more difficult! I knew that Nam Sang Wai suffered from a fire a couple of years ago and many trees were burnt. But I was surprised that the landscape hasn’t been cleared up and recovered since, and it looked a bit unsightly and hotchpotch. Some real estate developers in Hong Kong are known to be interested in purchasing the land in Nam Sang Wai for development, and according to one conspiracy theory, the fire was deliberately lit and the affected areas left ruined to facilitate the eventual acquisition of land. I wouldn’t speculate how trustworthy this theory is, but I am worried (and pretty sure) that the area would undergo a complete make-over sooner or later and the countryside would be gone!
從小食店再上路，踏著在草叢中闢出來的小徑，兩旁高及腰的雜草叢生，沿途不少樹木，有燒過的痕跡，偶而還有枯樹榦橫臥路上，我們三人祇是走路，要跨過尚算容易，但真是苦了騎腳踏車的！我還記得兩年前聽新聞說南生圍發生火災，燒毀了不少樹，但沒想到至今仍未有復元或清理的跡象，給我一種荒涼和雜亂無章的觀感，據知有地產商有意收購南生圍作物業發展，後來聽某途人的一種陰謀論，說南生圍的火災是有人策劃，而反正將來那些地方也要發展，現在火災後讓其荒廢也無所謂。究竟陰謀論是否屬實則無從考究，但我倒擔心（和相信），那裡將來會改頭換面，鄉郊不再！
At the end of the path, we came across a deserted derelict house which reminded me of the scenes of desolate landscape in TV shows or films. Soon we saw two fish ponds, one pumped dried completely and the other thankfully intact. The latter matched exactly the scenery described in the text books!
草叢小徑的盡頭，有一家破落、丟空的的小屋，令我不期然想起拍電視劇和電影荒山野嶺的情景，再過一點有兩個大魚塘（亦稱基圍），一個已被抽乾，另一個仍完好，讓我終於看到語文課本形容的南生圍魚塘景色了！
We walked past the ponds and reached a paved road (Nam Sang Wai Road) which led to a nature reserve for birds. The time was approaching sunset, and many birds were flying above our heads in many varied and flowing patterns on their way home. It was like moving evolving art in the sky. The nature reserve faces the Deep Bay and is a sanctuary for many types of birds. It is one of the well-known bird watching and photography spots.
穿過魚塘便來到一條馬路（南生圍路），通住雀鳥保護區。那時夕陽漸漸西下，正是百鳥歸巢之時，一群群飛鳥排成不同而且會漸變的隊列，不時在我們頭頂飛過，教我們百看不厭。雀鳥保護區面向后海灣，吸引不少鳥類棲息，也吸引不少觀鳥者的鏡頭。
The road took a bend at the nature reserve and continued along Shan Pui River. The industrial estate on the opposite bank reminded us that we weren’t that far away from urban civilisation and the end of our trip. After leaving the industrial estate behind us, we had one more taste of the countryside as the road turned into a dirt path again lined with tall trees on both sides. On the left of the path lay a marsh with a dense patch of reeds close to the path. A small jetty that protruded into the marsh was said by my friends to be a popular spot for photo shots by celebrities and models, who like to pose up on the jetty with country scenery in the background. While I haven’t seen those photos myself, I can definitely say that I can identify the tree-lined path in one of the Hong Kong TV dramas a month ago!
我們沿路在雀鳥保護區拐個彎，來到山貝河沿岸，對岸的工廠，提示我們離開鬧市和旅途終點不遠了。遠離工業區，馬路再次變成鄉郊路徑，兩旁大樹成蔭，饒有鄉村的自然風味，左邊有個沼澤，岸邊水草叢生，還建了個小小碼頭，朋友說那裡是拍外景的熱門地點，明星和名模想找大自然作佈景，都愛站在那個碼頭擺出各樣姿勢拍攝，那些相片我可沒看過，但上個月看某齣電視劇時，一眼便認得出那道林蔭路徑！
The New Territories is full of century-old relics and rural charm while its cultural and natural landscapes are really diverse. But Hong Kong is known for its turbocharged pace and can be particularly unforgiving towards traditions and the natural environment. Both the government and real estate developers are intent on developing a large part of the New Territories, so it’s definitely worthwhile exploring the many facets of this place before it is completely changed over!
新界的風土人情和歷史，果然豐富悠久，各處各有特色，但香港這地方步伐太快，歲月特別不留人，而且不論政府或地產商都有意發展新界，所以應該趁這片遼闊和保留著傳統的土地未面目全非前來看看！
年初六那天，是我回港度歲兩周中少有的大晴天，所以便把握機會繼續「下鄉」。
貫通新界西北的西鐵線，把天水圍切割為二，一邊是屋邨林立的住宅區，建成不夠二十年，另一邊則是數條原有的鄉村，少說也有幾百年歷史了，由屏山文物徑連接起來，雖然祇有短短一公里，以正常步速祇消十五分鐘左右便走完，但文物徑沿途古蹟甚多，我因趕時間祇花了一個多小時，匆匆看到半途便折返，趕往下個目的地，不然能花一整個下午細味一番該處的歷史和鄉郊氣息會多好！
For most visitors, the most convenient starting point of the Trail would be the Tsui Sing Lau Pagoda, which is the only one if its kind in Hong Kong, right beside the Tin Shui Wai West Rail station. After passing the Shrine of the Earth God and the Sheung Cheung Wai village, one would come to a small crest where the Yeung Hau Temple, which commemorates one of the generals of the Sung Dynasty (about 1000 years old), is located. Not far away from there is the 600-odd-year-old Tang Ancestral Hall, built by the Tang clan who first settled in the region about 800 years ago. The Kun Ting Study Hall and adjoining Ching Shu Hin (literally meaning the House of Respite from Summer Heat) are respectively places of study for the clan and accommodation for their guests. At one of the entrances of Ching Shu Hin, there are several red plaques as commendations for achievements in the imperial civil service examinations, held commonly more than 150 years ago by the dynasty for selecting candidates into the administration. The Tang clan has obviously placed much emphasis in education and enjoyed some success.
一般人參觀，最方便的起站是天水圍西鐵站毗鄰的聚星樓，是香港僅有的傳統式塔樓，然後沿路徑經過社壇和上璋圍村，便來到一個小丘上供奉宋代（約一千年前）忠臣、候王楊亮節的楊候古廟，再過不遠便是有六百多年歷史的鄧氏宗祠，屬於在屏山定居了近八百年的鄧氏家族，旁邊的覲廷書室和相連的清暑軒，分別是鄧氏的書室和招待來賓下榻的地方，清暑軒入口的走廊還豎了好幾個刻有科舉功名的紅色功名牌，可見鄧氏挺注重教育，而且還有點成就。
The heritage trail and some of the prominent landmarks 文物徑及沿途數個景點
The interior architecture (left) and courtyard (right) of the Tang ancestral hall
鄧氏宗祠的內部建築（左）和中庭（右）
A birthday mural dating back 140 years
有140年歷史的祝壽賀帳
The shrine (left) and a study room (right) in Kun Tin Study Hall
覲廷書室內的崇德堂（左）和一間書房（右）
Honours by the Tang clan in the imperial examinations
鄧氏歷代的功名Unfortunately I ran out of time and had to rush to another district called Yuen Long, to meet my two friends who then took me to Nam Sang Wai, a village mentioned occasionally in my primary school textbooks for its fish ponds and countryside. I have always had the impression that Nam Sang Wai is somewhere pretty remote and out of reach, but in fact it was only a 5- to 7-minute walk from exit G2 of Yuen Long West Rail station!
不過時間無多，約了兩個朋友一同遊南生圍，所以便坐西鐵坐兩個站到元朗去。跟天水圍一樣，西鐵也把元朗市中心大馬路跟鄉郊部分分隔起來。南生圍是我唸小學時語文課本偶而會提起的郊遊地點，滿佈魚塘和荒野，一直給我一種遙不可及的感覺，但事實上從元朗站G2出口走大概祇消五至七分鐘而已！
We saw the sign that told visitors to take a boat just before reaching the village. I was wondering what stretch of water there was at Nam Sang Wai, and soon enough I saw a small river (Shan Pui River) that could only be crossed with boats upon entering the village.
快進村時看到坐街渡小艇的牌，心想那裡除了魚塘何來有水？原來是先要渡河（山貝河）才算正式到達南生圍！
After alighting, we had a short break in a small eatery built above the river near the pier. The river was like a natural sound barrier which had filtered away totally the noise of Yuen Long town centre and left the village with a serene ambiance. But looking back across the river through the haze to Yuen Long town centre, the silhouettes of the high-rises were actually just a stone’s throw away. The hustle and bustle of urban life and tranquillity of the village were only physically separated from each other by less than 1 km but seemed worlds apart. I bet there aren’t so many places in the world which can exhibit such a marked contrast in landscape in such a short distance.
過河後離渡頭不遠的河畔築起一家棚屋，是一家小食店，我和朋友先到那裡吃碗豆腐花。這條河是天然的屏障，把元朗市中心的繁囂和喧鬧與寧靜的鄉村徹底隔絕，但從小食店回頭一望，隔了一層煙霞，一幢幢高樓的灰濛濛輪廓原來近在咫尺，在那短短不足一公里的距離，景觀截然不同，鬧市和鄉郊是這麼近但那麼遠，如此變化，世上相信沒多少地方才見到。
Idyllic rural scenery
融入於大自然的棚屋
Sunny day, lazy day
陽光普照，曬得小貓懶洋洋
The sights of urbanity of never too far away, even in Nam Sang Wai.
恬靜和喧鬧，祇是一水之隔Coming out of the eatery, we followed a path that cut through the mess of waist-height grasses and passed through many trees that showed signs of being burnt before. Fallen tree trunks blocked the path at several places; it wasn’t a big concern for the three of us as we were only walking, but it did make cyclists’ lives more difficult! I knew that Nam Sang Wai suffered from a fire a couple of years ago and many trees were burnt. But I was surprised that the landscape hasn’t been cleared up and recovered since, and it looked a bit unsightly and hotchpotch. Some real estate developers in Hong Kong are known to be interested in purchasing the land in Nam Sang Wai for development, and according to one conspiracy theory, the fire was deliberately lit and the affected areas left ruined to facilitate the eventual acquisition of land. I wouldn’t speculate how trustworthy this theory is, but I am worried (and pretty sure) that the area would undergo a complete make-over sooner or later and the countryside would be gone!
從小食店再上路，踏著在草叢中闢出來的小徑，兩旁高及腰的雜草叢生，沿途不少樹木，有燒過的痕跡，偶而還有枯樹榦橫臥路上，我們三人祇是走路，要跨過尚算容易，但真是苦了騎腳踏車的！我還記得兩年前聽新聞說南生圍發生火災，燒毀了不少樹，但沒想到至今仍未有復元或清理的跡象，給我一種荒涼和雜亂無章的觀感，據知有地產商有意收購南生圍作物業發展，後來聽某途人的一種陰謀論，說南生圍的火災是有人策劃，而反正將來那些地方也要發展，現在火災後讓其荒廢也無所謂。究竟陰謀論是否屬實則無從考究，但我倒擔心（和相信），那裡將來會改頭換面，鄉郊不再！
Roughing it out
曠廢的一面
At the end of the path, we came across a deserted derelict house which reminded me of the scenes of desolate landscape in TV shows or films. Soon we saw two fish ponds, one pumped dried completely and the other thankfully intact. The latter matched exactly the scenery described in the text books!
草叢小徑的盡頭，有一家破落、丟空的的小屋，令我不期然想起拍電視劇和電影荒山野嶺的情景，再過一點有兩個大魚塘（亦稱基圍），一個已被抽乾，另一個仍完好，讓我終於看到語文課本形容的南生圍魚塘景色了！
Abandoned by its occupants and time
被屋主和時光遺棄
The fish pond on the right would have once looked like the one below.
右圖過往的面貌，在下圖呈現
We walked past the ponds and reached a paved road (Nam Sang Wai Road) which led to a nature reserve for birds. The time was approaching sunset, and many birds were flying above our heads in many varied and flowing patterns on their way home. It was like moving evolving art in the sky. The nature reserve faces the Deep Bay and is a sanctuary for many types of birds. It is one of the well-known bird watching and photography spots.
穿過魚塘便來到一條馬路（南生圍路），通住雀鳥保護區。那時夕陽漸漸西下，正是百鳥歸巢之時，一群群飛鳥排成不同而且會漸變的隊列，不時在我們頭頂飛過，教我們百看不厭。雀鳥保護區面向后海灣，吸引不少鳥類棲息，也吸引不少觀鳥者的鏡頭。
The art of flying
飛行的藝術
A post for migratory birds and keen bird watchers at the nature reserve
雀鳥保護區，候鳥和觀鳥者駐足之地The road took a bend at the nature reserve and continued along Shan Pui River. The industrial estate on the opposite bank reminded us that we weren’t that far away from urban civilisation and the end of our trip. After leaving the industrial estate behind us, we had one more taste of the countryside as the road turned into a dirt path again lined with tall trees on both sides. On the left of the path lay a marsh with a dense patch of reeds close to the path. A small jetty that protruded into the marsh was said by my friends to be a popular spot for photo shots by celebrities and models, who like to pose up on the jetty with country scenery in the background. While I haven’t seen those photos myself, I can definitely say that I can identify the tree-lined path in one of the Hong Kong TV dramas a month ago!
我們沿路在雀鳥保護區拐個彎，來到山貝河沿岸，對岸的工廠，提示我們離開鬧市和旅途終點不遠了。遠離工業區，馬路再次變成鄉郊路徑，兩旁大樹成蔭，饒有鄉村的自然風味，左邊有個沼澤，岸邊水草叢生，還建了個小小碼頭，朋友說那裡是拍外景的熱門地點，明星和名模想找大自然作佈景，都愛站在那個碼頭擺出各樣姿勢拍攝，那些相片我可沒看過，但上個月看某齣電視劇時，一眼便認得出那道林蔭路徑！
Avian decorations on the trees
禿樹被雀鳥「裝飾」得像聖誕樹
Sunset at the industrial estate
夕陽斜落工業區
The last glimpse of nature before leaving Nam Sang Wai
行程尾聲經過的林蔭路（上）和沼澤（右）The New Territories is full of century-old relics and rural charm while its cultural and natural landscapes are really diverse. But Hong Kong is known for its turbocharged pace and can be particularly unforgiving towards traditions and the natural environment. Both the government and real estate developers are intent on developing a large part of the New Territories, so it’s definitely worthwhile exploring the many facets of this place before it is completely changed over!
新界的風土人情和歷史，果然豐富悠久，各處各有特色，但香港這地方步伐太快，歲月特別不留人，而且不論政府或地產商都有意發展新界，所以應該趁這片遼闊和保留著傳統的土地未面目全非前來看看！
Comments