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吉隆坡(1)——老派香港之必要

一月回港時,因為機票關係,順道飛了一趟往吉隆坡。

馬來西亞華人多,這點我和太太早已知,但我倆一直以為,當地華人都以說普通話或福建話,像新加坡華人般,但打從在機場搭車往市區那刻,便徹底改變我們的看法。那個司機,不只廣東話流利,而且對八、九十年代的香港電影劇集和流行區瞭如指掌。

在酒店安頓後,到不遠的茨廠街(唐人街)逛,看着滿街攤檔和出售的貨物,令我們覺得好像回到了旺角通菜街(女人街)一樣。茨廠街附近——還有後來的阿羅街(Jalan Alor)——整條街一桌接一桌,坐滿在路邊吃飯的人,有如香港過往大排檔盛行的景況。



(吉隆坡以至馬來西亞不少地方都有這些半露天用膳的地方,炎炎日子坐在風扇下吃地道菜,集多重「風」味於一處)

更厲害的是,有天逛一家頗大型、名叫Berjaya Times Square卻跟時代有點脫節的商場時,竟然有家專賣香港舊影視娛樂收藏品的店舖,櫥窗貼出的雜誌封面,統統是60年代的明星,這麼豐富的收藏,恐怕在香港也不一定找得到!


馬來西亞保留的,除了老香港,還有中華文化。

雖然早已知道農曆新年在馬來西亞是重要節日,但沒想到過年氣氛真的濃厚,大型商場紛紛張燈結綵,規模最大的要算是在Bukit Bintang的Pavilion商場,由正門到大堂都佈置得堂煌奪目,大堂的裝置有六七層樓高,吸引全場目光,這個在吉隆坡以至馬來西亞數一數二的商場,跟香港最大商場之一但農曆新年佈置欠奉的海港城商場,成極強對比!



吉隆坡地標雙子塔前的會展公園(KLCC Park),也擺放了一個奪目的、全身用銅錢舖砌的兔子像,當時只是覺得,金錢兔純粹是把兩個應節的題材結合而已,但想不起今年賀年祝福語流行諧音,錢和兔加起來的「更深層」意思,就是「前(錢)途(兔)似錦」!


馬來西亞華人過年習俗跟其他華人固然有不同(七彩撈生便是一例),我此程沒深究,但最明顯的是擺塑膠花,我們見慣的賀年花,例如桃花、水仙和牡丹等,應有盡有,大概是因為這些花在熱帶不能生長,所以便用塑膠代替品了。不過後來回到香港,我們也看到很多地方都擺放了塑膠桃花,我推想原因可能是今年過年早(1月22日),市面很多桃花還未盛放,開了花的也不甚璀璨,塑膠桃花正彌補此不足了。


吉隆坡的飲食,固然有不少地道馬來西亞款式,但也有跟香港有很多相似之處,是我們沒預料到的,連本來是由百多年前移居新加坡和馬來西亞的海南移民發揚光大的海南咖啡店,招牌食物例如烏咖啡(Kopi-O)和太空包,都和香港的齋啡和餐包都有幾份像,但咖啡豆經用糖和牛油炒過後特有的香氣,和塗太空包用的加央醬,則為這些看似熟悉的東西加添當地特色,這種熟悉中帶不同和驚喜的感覺,我們用膳時不難感受得到。


馬來西亞華人文化與其他華人地區的文化一脈相承,保留到主體(節慶、飲食甚至昔日和現今潮流)之餘亦發展出自己一套,這一程讓我們深刻體會到。

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