On my round-the-world work trip last year, I managed to spend a couple of days in Singapore (15th and 16th July). My last visit to Singapore was in 2005, and since my flight ticket allowed I thought it would be a good idea for a return visit. I’m thankful that my good friend’s parents offered to put me up and show me around. They took me out not long after landing in early morning on the 15th and settling at their place.
去年七月環球公幹時，因機票容許，又因對上一次到訪已是2005年的事，所以便順道在新加坡停留兩天（7月15至16日）。這次多得好友的父母招待，我15日清早一下機，到其家安頓後不久，他們便帶我四處遊覽了。
Marina Bay is a well-known tourist spot with the Merlion and the theatres as its most famous landmarks. But after a 7-year absence I could hardly recognise the place! The most eye-catching new building was a hotel with a roof-top swimming pool which looks as if its water will meet the sky, as I’ve seen from a Hong Kong TV programme. Across the water from the hotel were a new spectator stand and a floating stage (Marina Bay Seating Gallery and The Float @ Marina Bay). It is obvious that Marina Bay is being developed further as an entertainment and cultural performance precinct. The Helix Bridge commands a comprehensive and one of the best views of Marina Bay. From there I could gain an overview of the whole new layout of Marina Bay and marvel at the new face of the area.
新加坡濱海區（Marina Bay）一向是遊客必到的地方，魚尾獅和一帶的劇院都是該區的地標，但事隔七年，整區都改頭換面，出發前不久有香港電視節目介紹頂層遊泳池看起來水天相連的酒店，原來便座落那裡，酒店對岸搭建了新的看台和浮在水上的舞台，看來是有意把濱海區變成一個集娛樂和文化表演的地方。站在新建成的螺旋橋（Helix Bridge），整個濱海區的新佈局一覽無遺，相比起七年前增添了不少新意，頓時給我耳目一新的感覺。
More new things were waiting to be discovered on the other side of the hotel. As we walked past, we could see a few gigantic ‘wireframe trees’ dominating the landscape, which also matched my impressions from the TV programme. Those trees marked the newly open Gardens by the Bay, and we went in for a visit as it was new to all of us. Some parts of the Gardens were still under construction, but two main conservatories were already receiving many visitors. Both the Flower Dome and the Cloud Forest had abundant collections of plants. While the former was more similar in style to a greenhouse, the latter had a 35-metre tall ‘mountain’ with a waterfall mimicking the environs and vegetation of a tropical highland. Although both were somewhat artificial, they were still worth a visit since it must have taken a lot of planning and effort to introduce so many plant species and arrange them in a meaningful way. The Cloud Forest also provided many good vantage points for photography. The path that descended from the top would at times cut through the ‘mountain’, at times be suspending mid-air, be behind the waterfall or be side-by-side with the ‘mountain’ at different places. The views were ever-changing in such a small space and very three-dimensional.
酒店背面還有一片新天地，在一片園林中有幾棵大「鐵樹」矗立，與我看電視的印象吻合，那裡原來就是剛開幕不久的濱海灣公園（Gardens by the Bay），我和朋友父母趁新鮮入內參觀。其實公園不少部分仍在興建中，但已有兩大展館開放，計有圓頂花卉館（Flower Dome）和雲台森林（Cloud Forest），前者佈局大致像一般溫室，後者有座高35米連瀑布的「山」模仿熱帶高地雨林，雖然有點造作（尤其是後者），但引進這麼多植物又花心思佈置，畢竟都值得見識一下，雲台森林更是拍攝的好地點：遊客沿路徑繞山而下，時而穿過山內，時而凌空直望山腳，時而與崖壁擦身而過，時而又繞到瀑布後，景色不斷變化，也富有立體感。
Those enormous ‘supertrees’ were not only landmarks of the Gardens but also multifunctional. They provided surfaces and ‘fences’ for vegetation growth, could gather rain water and were installed with panels for collecting solar energy. But to my mind, the cleverest use of the supertrees was to attach a walkway (the OCBC Skyway) halfway up a tree to create a centrally-located, convenient vantage point for the Gardens, the hotel in front and the city further afield.
園內的「超級樹」集多功能於一身，除了是遊人目光的焦點外，也可以採集雨水和太陽能，牆身為多種植物提供依附滋長的「籬笆」，但最聰明之處，就是在樹半空架起一道走廊，在平坦的公園內製造制高點讓遊人俯瞰公園，及遠眺前方的酒店和更遠的景色。
The next morning I got a lift with my friend’s parents and set off my ventures in the Little India district. While the sights of rows of Indian shops, eateries and temples were to be expected, there was also a street where a church, a mosque and a little corner for tending to the Chinese god of the land could be found in a short stretch of some 200 metres. It was arguably one of the best illustrations of Singapore’s multiculturalism and tolerance of different customs.
第二天早上我坐朋友父母的順風車，到小印度區遊覽，那裡固然多印度商店、食店和廟宇，但其中一條街，短短二百多米有教堂、清真寺和拜地主公公的角落，足見新加坡多種文化的共容。
From Little India I took the underground to Harbourfront, where I could cross the bridge at leisure to the island of Sentosa. Like Marina Bay, Sentosa has also undergone a total facelift with many new convention facilities and theme parks. I was however more interested in the former military post of Fort Siloso to the west of the island. Fort Siloso used to be an important British defence installation during World War II, but these days it is a place for learning about some history during that period, as well as a place for tranquillity and more scenic sea views.
從小印度坐地鐵到港灣海濱（Harbourfront），跨橋不久便到達聖陶沙島（Sentosa），和濱海區一樣，聖陶沙島也改造了不少，相信最為人熟悉的是島上的會議設施和多個主題公園，不過我倒對島西端的西洛索炮台（Fort Siloso）更有興趣，一來可以認識二次大戰時的一點歷史和軍事設施，二來可以遠離人煙，靜賞山林的環境和海景。
Sentosa (left) and Singapore mainland (right) 聖陶沙島（左）和新加坡主島（右）
A view of the western parts of Singapore 遙望新加坡西部
In my brief tour I managed to visit some brand-new landmarks of Singapore and uncover other parts that I overlooked during my last visit. My friend’s parents definitely deserve a big thanks for taking me to places where the general public of Singapore would normally go. I certainly have had a lot of good local food and could see a more authentic face of Singapore with their guide!
短短兩天行程，既發掘了幾個全新的景點，也看到上次忽略了的一面，很感謝朋友的父母抽空帶我到新加坡一般民眾常到的地方吃東西和逛逛，讓我見識新加坡較地道的面貌。
As a Hongkonger I couldn’t help but to keep comparing Hong Kong against Singapore. The places where my friend’s parents took me were generally close to the central area, but unlike Hong Kong it felt more spacious and green, while the older districts were still quite well preserved with rows of local-style two-storey buildings still standing. In Hong Kong those two-storey buildings would have long been demolished, and those plots of land together with the green areas all given way to yet more high-rises! Singapore’s land area is on par with the useable land area of Hong Kong and its current population is similar to Hong Kong in the 1980s, but the area of dwellings in Singapore is so much larger than Hong Kong’s then and now, while the living environment is more pleasant and the more traditional neighbourhoods have not been sacrificed extensively yet. I wonder how Singapore has achieved this. The quality of living is something that Hong Kong must have unfortunately neglected, when its general public’s overarching concern is securing property ownership, its property developers care nothing more than making extreme profits, and its government has shown little regulation and leadership on this issue.
身為香港人，少不免會拿新加坡作比較，我們所到的地方都是市中心附近，但和香港最不同之處，就是街道寬敞，綠化地帶多，而且舊區保存較好，一排排兩層高的古式房屋比比皆是，換了是香港，這些舊區和綠化區早已全蓋了高樓！新加坡的土地面積跟香港可用的土地面積接近，現時的人口跟香港80年代相若，但為甚麼新加坡的居住面積可以比當年和現今香港的大，居住環境更好，又不用大規模「破舊立新」（拆舊樓建新樓）？港人急於置業，地產商顧著斂財，政府又缺乏規管和領導，各方面是否因此而忽略了居住質素？
去年七月環球公幹時，因機票容許，又因對上一次到訪已是2005年的事，所以便順道在新加坡停留兩天（7月15至16日）。這次多得好友的父母招待，我15日清早一下機，到其家安頓後不久，他們便帶我四處遊覽了。
Marina Bay is a well-known tourist spot with the Merlion and the theatres as its most famous landmarks. But after a 7-year absence I could hardly recognise the place! The most eye-catching new building was a hotel with a roof-top swimming pool which looks as if its water will meet the sky, as I’ve seen from a Hong Kong TV programme. Across the water from the hotel were a new spectator stand and a floating stage (Marina Bay Seating Gallery and The Float @ Marina Bay). It is obvious that Marina Bay is being developed further as an entertainment and cultural performance precinct. The Helix Bridge commands a comprehensive and one of the best views of Marina Bay. From there I could gain an overview of the whole new layout of Marina Bay and marvel at the new face of the area.
新加坡濱海區（Marina Bay）一向是遊客必到的地方，魚尾獅和一帶的劇院都是該區的地標，但事隔七年，整區都改頭換面，出發前不久有香港電視節目介紹頂層遊泳池看起來水天相連的酒店，原來便座落那裡，酒店對岸搭建了新的看台和浮在水上的舞台，看來是有意把濱海區變成一個集娛樂和文化表演的地方。站在新建成的螺旋橋（Helix Bridge），整個濱海區的新佈局一覽無遺，相比起七年前增添了不少新意，頓時給我耳目一新的感覺。
The Helix Bridge with a post-modern mix of steel and glass
鋼管和玻璃構成有超現代感覺的螺旋橋
Marina Bay, with (from left to right) Marina Bay Sands Hotel, the ArtScience Museum with its lotus shape, the Merlion on the far side in the middle, and The Float @ Marina Bay stadium.
濱海灣，包括（從左至右）濱海灣金沙酒店、蓮花形狀的藝術科學博物館、魚尾獅（位於圖中央較遠的海濱）和水上舞台
More new things were waiting to be discovered on the other side of the hotel. As we walked past, we could see a few gigantic ‘wireframe trees’ dominating the landscape, which also matched my impressions from the TV programme. Those trees marked the newly open Gardens by the Bay, and we went in for a visit as it was new to all of us. Some parts of the Gardens were still under construction, but two main conservatories were already receiving many visitors. Both the Flower Dome and the Cloud Forest had abundant collections of plants. While the former was more similar in style to a greenhouse, the latter had a 35-metre tall ‘mountain’ with a waterfall mimicking the environs and vegetation of a tropical highland. Although both were somewhat artificial, they were still worth a visit since it must have taken a lot of planning and effort to introduce so many plant species and arrange them in a meaningful way. The Cloud Forest also provided many good vantage points for photography. The path that descended from the top would at times cut through the ‘mountain’, at times be suspending mid-air, be behind the waterfall or be side-by-side with the ‘mountain’ at different places. The views were ever-changing in such a small space and very three-dimensional.
酒店背面還有一片新天地，在一片園林中有幾棵大「鐵樹」矗立，與我看電視的印象吻合，那裡原來就是剛開幕不久的濱海灣公園（Gardens by the Bay），我和朋友父母趁新鮮入內參觀。其實公園不少部分仍在興建中，但已有兩大展館開放，計有圓頂花卉館（Flower Dome）和雲台森林（Cloud Forest），前者佈局大致像一般溫室，後者有座高35米連瀑布的「山」模仿熱帶高地雨林，雖然有點造作（尤其是後者），但引進這麼多植物又花心思佈置，畢竟都值得見識一下，雲台森林更是拍攝的好地點：遊客沿路徑繞山而下，時而穿過山內，時而凌空直望山腳，時而與崖壁擦身而過，時而又繞到瀑布後，景色不斷變化，也富有立體感。
Gardens by the Bay studded with 'Supertrees'
「超級樹」矗立的濱海灣公園
The Singapore Flyer Ferris wheel
新加坡觀光摩天輪
Flower Dome 圓頂花卉館
The mountain in Cloud Forest and the waterfall at the entrance
雲台森林的「山」和正門入口的瀑布
Flying around the hill 穿梭山林中
Behind the water curtain
水簾洞
Reminds me of the Japanese animated films!
新加坡版天空之城Those enormous ‘supertrees’ were not only landmarks of the Gardens but also multifunctional. They provided surfaces and ‘fences’ for vegetation growth, could gather rain water and were installed with panels for collecting solar energy. But to my mind, the cleverest use of the supertrees was to attach a walkway (the OCBC Skyway) halfway up a tree to create a centrally-located, convenient vantage point for the Gardens, the hotel in front and the city further afield.
園內的「超級樹」集多功能於一身，除了是遊人目光的焦點外，也可以採集雨水和太陽能，牆身為多種植物提供依附滋長的「籬笆」，但最聰明之處，就是在樹半空架起一道走廊，在平坦的公園內製造制高點讓遊人俯瞰公園，及遠眺前方的酒店和更遠的景色。
The OCBC Skyway among the Supertrees
懸在超級樹半空的走廊
The Marina Bay Sands hotel from the Skyway
半空遠眺金沙酒店
Looking east towards the Singapore Flyer and the Flower Dome
從走廊向東可望到摩天輸和圓頂花卉館
The next morning I got a lift with my friend’s parents and set off my ventures in the Little India district. While the sights of rows of Indian shops, eateries and temples were to be expected, there was also a street where a church, a mosque and a little corner for tending to the Chinese god of the land could be found in a short stretch of some 200 metres. It was arguably one of the best illustrations of Singapore’s multiculturalism and tolerance of different customs.
第二天早上我坐朋友父母的順風車，到小印度區遊覽，那裡固然多印度商店、食店和廟宇，但其中一條街，短短二百多米有教堂、清真寺和拜地主公公的角落，足見新加坡多種文化的共容。
The technicolor houses and streets of Little India
小印度區色彩繽紛的房屋和街道
Sri Veeramakaliamman temple
維拉馬卡拉曼印度廟
The gods in harmony along Dunlop Street
(top left: Abdul Gaffoor Mesjid mosque)
短短Dunlop Street容得下不同的信仰
（左上圖攝於Abdul Gaffoor清真寺內）
From Little India I took the underground to Harbourfront, where I could cross the bridge at leisure to the island of Sentosa. Like Marina Bay, Sentosa has also undergone a total facelift with many new convention facilities and theme parks. I was however more interested in the former military post of Fort Siloso to the west of the island. Fort Siloso used to be an important British defence installation during World War II, but these days it is a place for learning about some history during that period, as well as a place for tranquillity and more scenic sea views.
從小印度坐地鐵到港灣海濱（Harbourfront），跨橋不久便到達聖陶沙島（Sentosa），和濱海區一樣，聖陶沙島也改造了不少，相信最為人熟悉的是島上的會議設施和多個主題公園，不過我倒對島西端的西洛索炮台（Fort Siloso）更有興趣，一來可以認識二次大戰時的一點歷史和軍事設施，二來可以遠離人煙，靜賞山林的環境和海景。
Sentosa (left) and Singapore mainland (right) 聖陶沙島（左）和新加坡主島（右）
The Merlion tower at Imbiah Lookout
位於英比奧觀景點的魚尾獅塔
The entrance to Fort Siloso
西洛索炮台入口
Artillery around the fort
炮台範圍內的各種軍備
A view of the western parts of Singapore 遙望新加坡西部
In my brief tour I managed to visit some brand-new landmarks of Singapore and uncover other parts that I overlooked during my last visit. My friend’s parents definitely deserve a big thanks for taking me to places where the general public of Singapore would normally go. I certainly have had a lot of good local food and could see a more authentic face of Singapore with their guide!
短短兩天行程，既發掘了幾個全新的景點，也看到上次忽略了的一面，很感謝朋友的父母抽空帶我到新加坡一般民眾常到的地方吃東西和逛逛，讓我見識新加坡較地道的面貌。
The traditional buildings and undercroft of Purvis Street
(also home to a good Hainanese chicken restaurant!)
Purvis Street的舊式建築和行人路
（但最感引人的還是其中一家海南雞飯店！）
Some old buildings at North Bridge Road
North Bridge Road的舊式大廈
Rochor Centre with its rainbow colours
新加坡的「彩虹邨」：梧槽邨
The signature dish of Singapore: chili crab
新加玻招牌菜：胡椒蟹As a Hongkonger I couldn’t help but to keep comparing Hong Kong against Singapore. The places where my friend’s parents took me were generally close to the central area, but unlike Hong Kong it felt more spacious and green, while the older districts were still quite well preserved with rows of local-style two-storey buildings still standing. In Hong Kong those two-storey buildings would have long been demolished, and those plots of land together with the green areas all given way to yet more high-rises! Singapore’s land area is on par with the useable land area of Hong Kong and its current population is similar to Hong Kong in the 1980s, but the area of dwellings in Singapore is so much larger than Hong Kong’s then and now, while the living environment is more pleasant and the more traditional neighbourhoods have not been sacrificed extensively yet. I wonder how Singapore has achieved this. The quality of living is something that Hong Kong must have unfortunately neglected, when its general public’s overarching concern is securing property ownership, its property developers care nothing more than making extreme profits, and its government has shown little regulation and leadership on this issue.
身為香港人，少不免會拿新加坡作比較，我們所到的地方都是市中心附近，但和香港最不同之處，就是街道寬敞，綠化地帶多，而且舊區保存較好，一排排兩層高的古式房屋比比皆是，換了是香港，這些舊區和綠化區早已全蓋了高樓！新加坡的土地面積跟香港可用的土地面積接近，現時的人口跟香港80年代相若，但為甚麼新加坡的居住面積可以比當年和現今香港的大，居住環境更好，又不用大規模「破舊立新」（拆舊樓建新樓）？港人急於置業，地產商顧著斂財，政府又缺乏規管和領導，各方面是否因此而忽略了居住質素？
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