It's sometimes to quite easy to forget that there are still places waiting to be explored closer to Melbourne, and the last time I went was two years ago. In late April and early May I’ve finally had the chance to go to a couple of larger towns near Melbourne and caught a glimpse of what those places are like.
其實墨爾本附近還有好些地方有待我發掘，上次作這些短途旅遊已是兩年前的事了，但到四月底和五月初終於再次有機會，接連到過墨爾本附近的兩個大城鎮，見識一下那些地方有啥特色。
My parents and I went to Geelong on the last day of the 5-day-long Easter break to make use of the pleasant weather back then. It was rather rare that my parents could be motivated to go on a short trip with me, and it turned out to be a good decision since the weather became grey and chilly in May. We took the train to this town some 60 km away from Melbourne. In the beginning the weather threatened to spoil our fun, but it all cleared up in time just as we wanted to head to the shore.
復活節一連放假五天，而且每天天氣不錯，不出外走動就有點浪費了（踏入五月天氣驟然轉涼又灰灰暗暗，真慶幸有把握復活節時的好時光），難得家父家母都有興緻，所以我們便一同坐火車往60多公里外的吉朗市（Geelong）。出發時還是天陰陰，幸好到那裡後陰霾一掃而空，我們正想往海邊去，很是合時。
There was honestly nothing special about the city centre of Geelong, but the atmosphere was much livelier at the waterfront, full of people playing ball games, holding picnics and taking a walk on the beach and the gentle slopes hugging the coast. Everyone was taking the opportunity to enjoy the sunshine and warmth. The waterfront was further enlivened by sculptured bollards dotted along walking paths and roads. The variety of characters depicted by the bollards encapsulated the make-up and nature of the community in Geelong, and added to the artistic flair.
吉朗小小的市中心啥特別，但離海濱不遠，那裡有另一種氣氛，比市中心更活潑更有生氣，不論在沙灘和畔海的小山坡，盡是打球、散步和野餐的人群，大家都盡情享受陽光和溫暖。海濱最大的特色，是到處豎立了畫了不同人像的圓柱，反映當地居民的不同面貌，也為海濱增添藝術氣息。
By the sea, where mussels can be enjoyed (right)
海濱，是享受青口的最佳地方（右）
The bollards depicting all walks of life in Geelong
海濱的圓柱人像，反映吉朗多方面的人文面貌
Past the beach, I walked up the slopes to the other end of the Botanic Gardens through its vast expanse, then turned around and walked back to the beach along a quiet road by the shore. There was hardly a soul to be seen en route, and I was left alone to enjoy the open view of the sea as well as the leisure of wandering on my own.
過了沙灘上山坡繼續走，便是敞大的植物公園，到了公園盡頭便下山沿着幽靜的馬路走回到沙灘，沿途人跡罕至，視野開揚，正好讓我獨個兒沈醉於遼闊的海景中和享受在海濱散步的閒情逸致。
A world of openness and tranquility
天空海闊任我行
Then in the beginning of May, I was invited to a wedding in another town called Ballarat. Knowing that wedding formalities could go on well into the evening, I decided to stay overnight, with the added advantage of being able to revisit the place the next day after a 10-year absence. Happily the next day was the local Heritage Weekend, and I joined a guided tour led by a local historian to learn about the past of Ballarat.
到了五月初，應朋友之邀，到巴拉瑞特市（Ballarat）出席其婚禮，明知婚宴會很晚才結束，所以便在當地過夜。我對上一次到巴拉拉已是差不多十年前的事情，這次舊地重遊，第二天剛好遇上當地的歷史遺產週末（Heritage Weekend），所以我也順道參加了一個導賞團，由一個本地歷史學者當嚮導，介紹該市的歷史。
Ballarat shot into prominence in the 1850s with the gold rush, but while there is no gold left these days, many of its Victorian-era relics have been passed on well-preserved to this time. Take as an example the guest house where I stayed. It used to be a ‘coffee palace’ to provide an alcohol-free ‘alternative’ meeting place to the many other pubs, and its age was definitely showing through the tatty interior décors. But the skylight and the stairs with its banisters were a reminder of its better days back in the gold-rush era.
巴拉瑞特於1850年代的淘金熱發跡，如今金早就淘光了，但那段光輝日子，透過完好保存至今的建築物流傳下來。就以我入住的旅館為例，當初是家咖啡館，為酒館以外提供另一個聚腳點，現在搖身一變成為旅館，雖然內部裝潢真的有點殘舊，但天井和樓梯特色依然，總算有一種古風吧。
Living in history at Reid's Guesthouse
入住Reid's Guesthouse，時光彷彿倒流了
Next to the guest house was the railway station with its grand classical architecture. The people back in those days were only to willing to splash their wealth on architecture. The design of the railway station and the addition of the clock tower were intended to showcase its importance. The white painting gave the station a clean appearance which matches the grandeur of this masterpiece.
旅館旁便是古色古香的火車站，當年的人淘金發財後，不會吝嗇花在建築，而且會互相攀比，火車站的設計和鐘樓頂便彰顯其重要性和地位，古典的建築，塗上純白色，更突出其經典味道。
The railway station (left) and one of the many classical post boxes in Ballarat (right)
巴拉瑞特火車站（左）和站外的古典郵筒（右）
Farther along Lydiard Street, where both the guest house and railway station were located, there were many other Victorian-style buildings on display. It is indeed a blessing to Ballarat that the façade and structure of those buildings were so well kept. Apart from the efforts in conservation, the building material played no small part in helping the buildings stand the test of time. Many made use of basalt (also called bluestone in Australia) which was also common in Melbourne in the same era. Those buildings tend to be able to ‘age gracefully’ as basalt is a sturdy material, and they retain their elegance as time goes by. The workmanship of that era was probably also helping modern conservationists a lot. I was rather impressed that I could not hear passing trains in the guest house apart from the honking steam engines that were put on as special services for the Heritage Weekend, even though the guest house was right next to the railway station, and I was totally oblivious to the traffic along Lydiard Street until I opened the door at the main entrance. Such quality of sound-proofing could easily beat many modern buildings!
旅館和火車站位處的Lydiard Street，沿途盡是淘金年代的維多利亞式建築，至今外貌和結構仍保留完好，我想除了是當地注重保養外，也跟建築用料有莫大關係，當年不少建築物都是以玄武岩（basalt，在澳洲亦稱bluestone）興建，質地堅固而外觀典雅，幾經風雨而絲毫無損，在墨爾本亦廣為採用。建築質素水準也高，旅館雖位於火車站旁，但我唯一聽到的是在歷史遺產週末特別登場的蒸氣火車的鳴笛聲，而火車駛過的聲音或Lydiard Street的汽車聲，要打開旅館大門才可聽到，可見當時建築之精良。
Bluestone buildings surviving through the ages
歷久不衰的建築
Lydiard Street, an exhibition of Victorian-era architecture
Lydiard Street，彷如維多利亞式建築的展覽場
Amidst the myriad of Victorian architecture along Lydiard Street, the Regent Theatre stood out for its distinctive Art Deco architectural style between the two world wars. At the end of the street stood the University of Ballarat which used to be a prison. From a place of reshaping lives of the prisoners to educating the future generation of the society, the role of this place has undergone a transition as time went on.
在Lydiard Street一片維多利亞式建築中，皇宮劇院明顯獨樹一格，帶有兩次世界大戰之間的Art Deco特色，街尾的巴拉瑞特大學，前身是監獄，由昔日引導囚犯改過向善至今天作育英才，這個地方的功能隨歲月過渡。
Regent Theatre
皇宮劇院
From prison to university 監獄變大學
The other main thoroughfare of Ballarat is Sturt Street which runs parallel to Lydiard Street. Apart from its role as a section of the highway linking Ballarat to Melbourne and other towns in Victoria, Sturt Street is also a site of many historical buildings and monuments. The many statues and monuments along the strip in the middle of Sturt Street serve to commemorate important figures and events in local and national history.
與Lydiard Street成直角的Sturt Street，是市內另一條大道，隨了是連接巴拉瑞特至墨爾本和維多利亞州其他城鎮的公路之一段外，沿路也有不少歷史性建築，馬路中央的草坪，擺放了不同的人像和碑，紀念當地和澳洲的重要人物和大事。
The start of Sturt Street, marked by an antique lamp post
Sturt Street的開端有一座古色古香的街燈
Ballarat Town Hall 巴拉瑞特市政廳
After the guided tour, I slowly made my way away from the city centre to the shores of the Wendouree Lake. It was a world of peace and quiet to be enjoyed by humans and birds alike. Many swans and other water fowls were either lazing about on land or paddling leisurely close to the shore, while the middle of the lake saw a few yachts sailing casually. The far end of the Lake was where the Botanical Gardens of Ballarat. While it was not a particularly large place, it was filled with plenty of trees more than a century old, lining up impressively and forming a tall green wall along the paths in the garden. They are another testament to the history of Ballarat, much like those buildings of yesteryears in Ballarat’s city centre.
導賞團後，一步步離開巴拉瑞特市中心，到Wendouree湖畔，便進入了一片寧靜的天地，近岸聚了憩息和游弋的天鵝和水鴨，湖中央則揚帆點點，好一片悠閑的景緻，不論人或鳥都自得其樂。在湖離市區較遠的一端，是巴拉瑞特的植物公園，地方雖不算大，卻種滿了過百年的大樹，沿著公園路徑兩旁拔地而起，與天比高，和巴拉瑞特市內的古式建築一樣，也是時間的見證。
City Oval and its classical spectator stand
城市球場及其古典的看台
The leisurely Wendouree Lake 悠閑的Wendouree湖
A portrait of my younger days
童稚時的情景
One of the several fountains in the Botanical Gardens
植物公園內的其中一個噴水池
Reaching for the sky 真真正正的「百年樹木」
Having spent the time living and travelling in Europe, I must admit that I was rather impressed by the historical heritage on display in Ballarat and the conservation effort behind it. Talking to friends at the wedding, I found out that there were several more small towns that have preserved the heritage from the gold-rush era, and perhaps I should pay a visit to those places too.
在歐洲生活和旅遊過多年，沒想到在澳洲也可看到這麼多歷史古蹟，而且保留得如此完好。在婚禮時跟其他朋友說起，他們說維多利亞州還有好些小鎮，保留了當年淘金熱時代維多利亞式的古蹟，如果將來可以到那些地方一遊就好了。
其實墨爾本附近還有好些地方有待我發掘，上次作這些短途旅遊已是兩年前的事了，但到四月底和五月初終於再次有機會，接連到過墨爾本附近的兩個大城鎮，見識一下那些地方有啥特色。
My parents and I went to Geelong on the last day of the 5-day-long Easter break to make use of the pleasant weather back then. It was rather rare that my parents could be motivated to go on a short trip with me, and it turned out to be a good decision since the weather became grey and chilly in May. We took the train to this town some 60 km away from Melbourne. In the beginning the weather threatened to spoil our fun, but it all cleared up in time just as we wanted to head to the shore.
復活節一連放假五天，而且每天天氣不錯，不出外走動就有點浪費了（踏入五月天氣驟然轉涼又灰灰暗暗，真慶幸有把握復活節時的好時光），難得家父家母都有興緻，所以我們便一同坐火車往60多公里外的吉朗市（Geelong）。出發時還是天陰陰，幸好到那裡後陰霾一掃而空，我們正想往海邊去，很是合時。
There was honestly nothing special about the city centre of Geelong, but the atmosphere was much livelier at the waterfront, full of people playing ball games, holding picnics and taking a walk on the beach and the gentle slopes hugging the coast. Everyone was taking the opportunity to enjoy the sunshine and warmth. The waterfront was further enlivened by sculptured bollards dotted along walking paths and roads. The variety of characters depicted by the bollards encapsulated the make-up and nature of the community in Geelong, and added to the artistic flair.
吉朗小小的市中心啥特別，但離海濱不遠，那裡有另一種氣氛，比市中心更活潑更有生氣，不論在沙灘和畔海的小山坡，盡是打球、散步和野餐的人群，大家都盡情享受陽光和溫暖。海濱最大的特色，是到處豎立了畫了不同人像的圓柱，反映當地居民的不同面貌，也為海濱增添藝術氣息。
By the sea, where mussels can be enjoyed (right)
海濱，是享受青口的最佳地方（右）
The bollards depicting all walks of life in Geelong
海濱的圓柱人像，反映吉朗多方面的人文面貌
Past the beach, I walked up the slopes to the other end of the Botanic Gardens through its vast expanse, then turned around and walked back to the beach along a quiet road by the shore. There was hardly a soul to be seen en route, and I was left alone to enjoy the open view of the sea as well as the leisure of wandering on my own.
過了沙灘上山坡繼續走，便是敞大的植物公園，到了公園盡頭便下山沿着幽靜的馬路走回到沙灘，沿途人跡罕至，視野開揚，正好讓我獨個兒沈醉於遼闊的海景中和享受在海濱散步的閒情逸致。
A world of openness and tranquility
天空海闊任我行
Then in the beginning of May, I was invited to a wedding in another town called Ballarat. Knowing that wedding formalities could go on well into the evening, I decided to stay overnight, with the added advantage of being able to revisit the place the next day after a 10-year absence. Happily the next day was the local Heritage Weekend, and I joined a guided tour led by a local historian to learn about the past of Ballarat.
到了五月初，應朋友之邀，到巴拉瑞特市（Ballarat）出席其婚禮，明知婚宴會很晚才結束，所以便在當地過夜。我對上一次到巴拉拉已是差不多十年前的事情，這次舊地重遊，第二天剛好遇上當地的歷史遺產週末（Heritage Weekend），所以我也順道參加了一個導賞團，由一個本地歷史學者當嚮導，介紹該市的歷史。
Ballarat shot into prominence in the 1850s with the gold rush, but while there is no gold left these days, many of its Victorian-era relics have been passed on well-preserved to this time. Take as an example the guest house where I stayed. It used to be a ‘coffee palace’ to provide an alcohol-free ‘alternative’ meeting place to the many other pubs, and its age was definitely showing through the tatty interior décors. But the skylight and the stairs with its banisters were a reminder of its better days back in the gold-rush era.
巴拉瑞特於1850年代的淘金熱發跡，如今金早就淘光了，但那段光輝日子，透過完好保存至今的建築物流傳下來。就以我入住的旅館為例，當初是家咖啡館，為酒館以外提供另一個聚腳點，現在搖身一變成為旅館，雖然內部裝潢真的有點殘舊，但天井和樓梯特色依然，總算有一種古風吧。
Living in history at Reid's Guesthouse
入住Reid's Guesthouse，時光彷彿倒流了
Next to the guest house was the railway station with its grand classical architecture. The people back in those days were only to willing to splash their wealth on architecture. The design of the railway station and the addition of the clock tower were intended to showcase its importance. The white painting gave the station a clean appearance which matches the grandeur of this masterpiece.
旅館旁便是古色古香的火車站，當年的人淘金發財後，不會吝嗇花在建築，而且會互相攀比，火車站的設計和鐘樓頂便彰顯其重要性和地位，古典的建築，塗上純白色，更突出其經典味道。
The railway station (left) and one of the many classical post boxes in Ballarat (right)
巴拉瑞特火車站（左）和站外的古典郵筒（右）
Farther along Lydiard Street, where both the guest house and railway station were located, there were many other Victorian-style buildings on display. It is indeed a blessing to Ballarat that the façade and structure of those buildings were so well kept. Apart from the efforts in conservation, the building material played no small part in helping the buildings stand the test of time. Many made use of basalt (also called bluestone in Australia) which was also common in Melbourne in the same era. Those buildings tend to be able to ‘age gracefully’ as basalt is a sturdy material, and they retain their elegance as time goes by. The workmanship of that era was probably also helping modern conservationists a lot. I was rather impressed that I could not hear passing trains in the guest house apart from the honking steam engines that were put on as special services for the Heritage Weekend, even though the guest house was right next to the railway station, and I was totally oblivious to the traffic along Lydiard Street until I opened the door at the main entrance. Such quality of sound-proofing could easily beat many modern buildings!
旅館和火車站位處的Lydiard Street，沿途盡是淘金年代的維多利亞式建築，至今外貌和結構仍保留完好，我想除了是當地注重保養外，也跟建築用料有莫大關係，當年不少建築物都是以玄武岩（basalt，在澳洲亦稱bluestone）興建，質地堅固而外觀典雅，幾經風雨而絲毫無損，在墨爾本亦廣為採用。建築質素水準也高，旅館雖位於火車站旁，但我唯一聽到的是在歷史遺產週末特別登場的蒸氣火車的鳴笛聲，而火車駛過的聲音或Lydiard Street的汽車聲，要打開旅館大門才可聽到，可見當時建築之精良。
Bluestone buildings surviving through the ages
歷久不衰的建築
Lydiard Street, an exhibition of Victorian-era architecture
Lydiard Street，彷如維多利亞式建築的展覽場
Amidst the myriad of Victorian architecture along Lydiard Street, the Regent Theatre stood out for its distinctive Art Deco architectural style between the two world wars. At the end of the street stood the University of Ballarat which used to be a prison. From a place of reshaping lives of the prisoners to educating the future generation of the society, the role of this place has undergone a transition as time went on.
在Lydiard Street一片維多利亞式建築中，皇宮劇院明顯獨樹一格，帶有兩次世界大戰之間的Art Deco特色，街尾的巴拉瑞特大學，前身是監獄，由昔日引導囚犯改過向善至今天作育英才，這個地方的功能隨歲月過渡。
Regent Theatre
皇宮劇院
From prison to university 監獄變大學
The other main thoroughfare of Ballarat is Sturt Street which runs parallel to Lydiard Street. Apart from its role as a section of the highway linking Ballarat to Melbourne and other towns in Victoria, Sturt Street is also a site of many historical buildings and monuments. The many statues and monuments along the strip in the middle of Sturt Street serve to commemorate important figures and events in local and national history.
與Lydiard Street成直角的Sturt Street，是市內另一條大道，隨了是連接巴拉瑞特至墨爾本和維多利亞州其他城鎮的公路之一段外，沿路也有不少歷史性建築，馬路中央的草坪，擺放了不同的人像和碑，紀念當地和澳洲的重要人物和大事。
The start of Sturt Street, marked by an antique lamp post
Sturt Street的開端有一座古色古香的街燈
Ballarat Town Hall 巴拉瑞特市政廳
After the guided tour, I slowly made my way away from the city centre to the shores of the Wendouree Lake. It was a world of peace and quiet to be enjoyed by humans and birds alike. Many swans and other water fowls were either lazing about on land or paddling leisurely close to the shore, while the middle of the lake saw a few yachts sailing casually. The far end of the Lake was where the Botanical Gardens of Ballarat. While it was not a particularly large place, it was filled with plenty of trees more than a century old, lining up impressively and forming a tall green wall along the paths in the garden. They are another testament to the history of Ballarat, much like those buildings of yesteryears in Ballarat’s city centre.
導賞團後，一步步離開巴拉瑞特市中心，到Wendouree湖畔，便進入了一片寧靜的天地，近岸聚了憩息和游弋的天鵝和水鴨，湖中央則揚帆點點，好一片悠閑的景緻，不論人或鳥都自得其樂。在湖離市區較遠的一端，是巴拉瑞特的植物公園，地方雖不算大，卻種滿了過百年的大樹，沿著公園路徑兩旁拔地而起，與天比高，和巴拉瑞特市內的古式建築一樣，也是時間的見證。
City Oval and its classical spectator stand
城市球場及其古典的看台
The leisurely Wendouree Lake 悠閑的Wendouree湖
A portrait of my younger days
童稚時的情景
One of the several fountains in the Botanical Gardens
植物公園內的其中一個噴水池
Reaching for the sky 真真正正的「百年樹木」
Having spent the time living and travelling in Europe, I must admit that I was rather impressed by the historical heritage on display in Ballarat and the conservation effort behind it. Talking to friends at the wedding, I found out that there were several more small towns that have preserved the heritage from the gold-rush era, and perhaps I should pay a visit to those places too.
在歐洲生活和旅遊過多年，沒想到在澳洲也可看到這麼多歷史古蹟，而且保留得如此完好。在婚禮時跟其他朋友說起，他們說維多利亞州還有好些小鎮，保留了當年淘金熱時代維多利亞式的古蹟，如果將來可以到那些地方一遊就好了。
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