Skip to main content

The new world of food 飲食新世界

Before dinner on 30th April, I went for a wander in the streets of Chinatown near the restaurant while waiting for my friends. Friday evenings are busy times for restaurants, and that evening was no exception with quite long queues in front of several places, including a Shanghaiese dumpling eatery, a restaurant serving local specialties from Suzhou, Hangzhou and surrounds (which are all near Shanghai) as well as a restaurant serving dumplings and cuisine from the provinces near the seaboard south of the Yangtze River (which also covers Shanghai). Most of those in the queues, very interestingly, were Westerners, and that had me wondering what all the rave about Shanghaiese cuisine was. When I asked my friends at the dinner table, one of them joked that it was brought about by the Shanghai Expo fever, while another said that the Shanghaiese dumpling eatery was famous for its large servings at one of the cheapest prices in town. For A$ 10 (HK$ 70, 7 euros or US$ 9), there would be enough dumplings to fill one up until a ‘dumpling coma’ is induced. It is very difficult to beat this value for money nowadays in Australia, and that eatery was especially frequented by university students seeking a bargain.

That evening we enjoyed some hearty German fare in Hofbräuhaus Melbourne. Its name is most likely inspired by the famous Hofbräuhaus in Munich, but whether these two are business affiliates is very hard to tell. The patrons of the restaurant hailed from all corners of the world, and the waiting staff was just as multicultural. There was even a Chinese staff member participating in the slap dance performance later in the evening.

Two months ago I went to yum cha with a few colleagues, and at my table there were an Australia whose father and mother were Italian and Greek respectively, as well as an Indian family. There was no shortage of conversation topics when we started to talk about food, especially when it came to each of our own traditional cuisines. We all felt that food has become so globalised these days that it was only too easy to eat other kinds of food, since it could be as simple a matter as grabbing a packet from the supermarket freezers. One of the Indians even suggested that there was no such thing as local or traditional cuisine any more. Although this may be taking things a bit too far, interplays between traditional cuisines and new influences will only become stronger in the future as exchanges between distinct people and cultures become more frequent. On the flip side, it gives a chance for different cuisines to expand their reach and establish themselves on foreign soil. Curry is a famous example, as it is no longer confined to India and has earned a reputation of being the new national food of Britain where it has become the staple for many people. These days British curry has developed its own style and cooking methods, to the extent that it can now be promoted in its own right even in the land where curry originated. Meanwhile in Hong Kong, a dish that I feel represents the epitome of fusion between local and foreign cultures is the curry spaghetti, a common dish served in the local-style eating houses. It is indeed mind-boggling how the two things as disparate as curry and pasta have blended in a place far away from their origins, in an establishment that is also rather unique to local culture. Undoubtedly, Italians would have never thought of using curry as a sauce to their pasta, while Indians would have never chosen pasta or other types of noodles as a condiment to their curry either. I wonder how an Italian and Indian would think of it when they get a chance to try this curry spaghetti in a local-style eating house of Hong Kong.



4月30日跟朋友吃晚飯,趁朋友還沒有到,獨個兒在餐廳附近的唐人街逛逛。星期五晚人流比平時多,好些食肆外排了不短的人龍,計有上海水餃店、蘇杭菜館和一家吃餃子和江南菜的,但最特別的是,排隊的絕大部份是洋人!究竟江南菜有甚麼特別吸引呢?後來吃飯時,跟同桌的人談起,有打趣說是上海世博熱潮蔓延到澳洲,另一人說那家水餃店出名多快省,祇消10澳元(70港元、7歐元、9美元),一大碗水餃多得令人真的「吃不消」,在現今澳洲社會實屬超值,所以特別吸引大學生光顧。

我們那晚在Hofbräuhaus Melbourne吃德國菜,餐廳名稱源自慕尼黑聞名全世界的皇家啤酒館Hofbräuhaus,不過兩者有否關連 則不得而知了。餐廳顧客甚麼人種都有,就算是侍應生也是來自世界各地,到表演傳統德國的拍掌舞(Slap dance)時連華裔侍應也有份兒。

兩個月前和同事飲茶,同桌便有澳洲人(父、母分別是意大利人和希臘人)和一家大小印度人,一談到吃,大家便特別投契,單是各自的家鄉菜式和食物就已是談不盡的話題,大家都感嘆,隨着全球一體化,吃外國菜實在輕而易舉,甚至隨便從超市的大冰箱拿出來也可,其中一個印度人也說,地方菜、家鄉菜這些觀念也可能愈來愈沒意思了,此話雖未免有點誇張,但隨着全世界人流和文化交流日益頻繁,地方菜、家鄉菜受外來影響又或在他國落地生根都不足為奇,例如在英國,印度菜早已普及得成為「新英國國菜」,甚至現已衍生出英式咖哩,自成一派,還可「回流」到發源地並作推廣。而在香港,最令我感受到本土和外來文化交融的一道菜,就是不難在茶餐廳吃到的咖哩意粉(咖哩意大利麫);意大利人絕不會想到以咖哩作為麫條的醬汁,而印度人也不會以麫條作咖哩的配菜,但這兩樣東西偏偏在香港可以結合起來,並透過象徵本地文化的食肆發揚光大,不知意大利人和印度人在香港的茶餐廳吃到這道菜時會有何感想?

Comments

Siu Heng said…
I love 豉油西餐!

Popular posts from this blog

正字正確

廣州最近掀起保衛廣東話運動,早前星期日明報副刊一篇 文章 ,已對此作了精譬分析,我也不必插嘴了。 不過我想談談另一個相連的問題,相信久不久也會困擾好些港人,就是怎樣才算「正確」、「正統」的書面語。 我們自少便被老師耳提面命,廣東話絕不可用於寫作(雖然現在大行其道,我在網上留言甚至偶而寫電郵都會用廣東話),粵語和港式詞彙應以書面語(以普通話為標準的用語)取代,於是把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜,諸如此類,從小已習慣,我也沒異議。 但香港實在很多獨有的或跟國內有差別的詞彙,應用於主要給香港人看的場合當然沒問題,但國內或其他華人就可能覺得蹩腳甚至不一定明白。同樣國內的好些用詞,港人看到也會覺得有點不自然甚至礙眼。我寫網誌不時都會掙扎,究竟用國內的用詞好(我想一般來說應該是比較「正規」的,而且近幾年跟來自國內的人多了交往,或多或少都學到一點他們的用語),還是香港的說法好(始終不少讀者都是香港人,用上國內的詞語他們或許會覺得有點怪怪的),所以我盡可能兩者兼用,港式說法通常以括號並列,但我有時祇會用國內的用詞,也有時祇用香港的說法,可見我也往往拿不定主意。 問題是應該怎樣劃界線,區別「正確」和「不正確」的書面用語呢?我們應該遵從甚麼的「標準」?比方說在香港,學生寫了一句「我的志願是太空人」,公認是沒有問題的,老師一般也不會勉強學生寫「我的志願是航天員」,好了,這樣便是承認了香港和國內的用語確有區別,但既然如此,為甚麼把該句寫成「我嘅志願係太空人」時,老師便一定不會容許?又或者為甚麼寫作時硬要把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜?這道界線是誰定的,定立時又有甚麼理據?香港可不像很多國家般,有一個高高在上的法定語文機構(例如法國的Académie française),又或有權威性的詞典(例如英國的牛津字典,和國內的辭海),對語文作出一定規範,難免令人寫作時感到無所適從,甚麼香港和粵語詞彙可以用於書面、哪些不可。 用語的取向,也涉及文化取態的問題,我像一般港人一樣也認同寫作時要用書面語,盡量跟隨普通話的「標準」,但不會全盤用國內的詞彙和行文,一來不習慣,二來不免總有種維護本土文化的潛意識,特別是香港和國內社會制度上和文化上始終有點隔閡,這種矛盾不一定輕易化解。 究竟甚麼才算是「標準」、「正確」的書面中文,我想大概沒有「標準答案」,往往靠個人的見識和學養才可作出定奪,但隨著香港跟國內交往越來越...

排隊和人潮 Queues and crowds

A restaurant chain well-known in Hong Kong called Tamjai specialising in mixian (a type of rice noodles) has been talking about expanding to Australia for several years. The vision has finally materialised when the first Australian branch was open in Melbourne CBD in 28th November. Wife, baby and I were already keen to try it out on its second day of opening. 說了多年的譚仔米線往澳洲擴張,到11月28日譚仔在澳洲的首家分店終於在墨爾本市區,一家三口在開張第二天便貪新鮮試了。 We waited for 1 1/2 hours since 19:00 before we got a table. Many passers-by were amazed by this queue and a lady even asked what the queue was about and whether it was indeed worth the wait. She said that the length of the queue had not changed since she last walked by 4 hours earlier! 由黃昏7點排隊等了一個半小時才可內進,其間不少行人對人龍嘖嘖稱奇,甚至有西人婦人說人龍跟4小時前一樣長,問我排隊的目的和米線值不值得吃。 Customers can customise their own mixian noodles by choosing the soup base and ingredients. At the base price, 2 ingredients excluding the more expensive, special ones are included. The special ones...

Newborn, new experiences (3) 新生兒,新體驗 (3)

In preparation for our visit to Hong Kong possibly at the end of the year, our baby needs to apply for an Australian passport. 為準備年底可能到香港一遊(大人要跟寶寶,不可以說回港),寶寶要申領澳洲護照。 After we the parents filled in the application form, we needed to have the baby's photo taken and went to a camera shop. The biggest problem was that our baby smiled at the staff's camera by habit, like looking at our phones, but passport photos supposedly only allow a neutral facial expression. The staff decided to turn to the next customer before returning to us, but right at that moment our baby stopped smiling and my wife told the staff to snap a shot quickly. The staff guaranteed that the last shot would definitely meet the passport requirement, so we've passed the photo step. 填申請表後,先要為寶寶拍護照相片,為求專業,我們光顧一家攝影店,寶寶最大的「問題」,是見到店員拿相機時笑容流露,就像我們平時拍照般,但護照相片是不容展露笑容的啊。店員因為不想耽誤下個顧客,正開始招待其時,寶寶有一刻歛起笑臉,太太趕緊着店員捕捉那一剎,結果是連店員也說這幀相片保證合規,算是過了第一關。 The next customer 下一個顧客 Then we needed a witness for a couple of requirements in t...