Skip to main content

Sydney surprises! 意想不到的悉尼

The end of the year has been a particularly busy time, but fortunately I had a good reason to take a breather as I’ve booked some flights to visit Sydney with dad quite some time ago. This trip was full of surprises although we’ve both visited that city quite a few times.

年尾不知為甚麼特別忙,但上週末全因一早和家父訂了機票往悉尼而可忙裡偷閑,總算可以輕鬆一下。雖然從前到悉尼去好幾次了,但這個行程很多方面都令我們意想不到。












Sydney Fish Market 悉尼漁市場


Not long after we stepped off the plane, we were stung by the hefty Sydney public transport fares! I was aware of a surcharge for going through the airport railway station (called the Station Access Fee), but the public transport website would not say expressly how much the fee is. I figured out from the difference between single full-fare and half-fare tickets that the Station Access Fee should be A$5, but for a day ticket (called the Daytripper) the Fee turned out to be A$11.8! The Daytripper itself costs A$17 (HK$120, 11.5 euros, US$15.5), which is pretty steep already without slapping on this additional Station Access Fee. But such an expensive fare is less of a problem than the deliberate withholding of such information by the public transport authority of Sydney. To my mind, it’s acting like a dodgy businessperson who would only reveal all the hidden and unknown surcharges when handing over the final bill. This is simply unfair and confusing especially to visitors to Sydney and the occasional users of the train.

甫下機,悉尼市內的交通費就已令我倆吃一大驚!事前已查閱悉尼公共交通網頁,得知乘火車進出機場都有「車站進出費」,但該網頁並無列明那車站進出費要多少錢,憑已包括該費的成人和半價單程票推算,應是5澳元,但在售票處打算買日票時,才知道日票的車站進出費是11.8澳元!日票本身已是17澳元(120港元、11.5歐元、15.5美元),再加上車站進出費真是嚇怕人,但車費貴還是其次,最不忿的是公交機構不好好標明車站進出費,到購票時才告訴乘客,彷如任由其漫天開價般,做乘客的不免覺得任人魚肉了。













Darling Harbour and the Pyrmont Bridge (left) that flies over the Harbour
達令港和橫跨達令港的Pyrmont橋(左)







Fortunately the rest of the trip brought mainly pleasant surprises. On our first day (11th December) we took the ferry to Manly beach. While dad preferred to stay put by the beachside, I decided to saunter along the Manly Scenic Walk which took me along the coastline from the Manly Beach to another beached called Shelly Beach tucked away in a quiet bay nearby. I was struck by the Mediterranean feel of the place, thanks to the mix of bright yellow from the rocks, brilliant aqua of the sea and various vibrant colours of the houses under the warm summer sun.

雖然這個行程主要都是舊地重遊,但也給我們找到些驚喜。第一天(12月11日)下午坐渡海輪到Manly海灘,家父坐在海灘邊欣賞景色,我則沿着海濱徑(Manly Scenic Walk),靠着海岸線,慢慢由遠離人頭湧湧的Manly海灘,走到躲在鄰近靜謐小灣的Shelly海灘。和煦的陽光和藍得像寶石的海,襯托着路徑沿途的岩石和房屋,沒想到會給我有點地中海那種悠閑的感覺。


The Circular Quay, from which the ferry departed for Manly
渡海輪出發的環形碼頭

















Views of the city 市區景色



Fort Denison in the middle of the Harbour
海港中的Denison碉堡


















Sydney Opera House (left), together with the Harbour Bridge (right)
悉尼歌劇院(左)和與海港大橋連成一線的景色(右)












Seaside suburbs 海濱區域



Beyond Northhead (the landmass to the left of the photo) and Watson Bay (to the right) is where the Sydney Harbour meets the Tasman Sea.
相中左邊的陸地Northhead和右邊的Watson Bay,形成悉尼海港通往塔斯曼海的出口















Manly Beach Manly海灘



Residences overlooking Manly
面向Manly的樓房









Manly Scenic Walk
Manly海濱徑



















A pool by the sea 海邊的游泳池



Shelly Beach, also popular with swimmers
Shelly海灘,吸引不少弄潮兒









Sydney’s city parks were also quite pleasing. We went to Hyde Park, which was divided by a road into a north part and south part. In the south part stood the ANZAC memorial (war memorial of Australian and New Zealand forces), while the north part had a central pathway lined by tall trees which formed a high and steep roof over the path with their canopies. Not only was the view majestic, it was also fitting with the war memorial. The Royal Botanic Gardens close to the Circular Quay was also full of trees, but of another kind. They were more of a stubby kind with trunks so thick that it would easily take 3 or more people to encircle the trunks. I wouldn’t be surprised if the trees have been standing for more than a century; just imagine the amount of care needed to keep the trees in such a state. On a higher terrain right by the sea, the Botanic Gardens command some of the best views for the most famous icons of Sydney, the Opera House and the Harbour Bridge.

悉尼市區的公園也令沒令人失望。被馬路分成南、北兩部份的Hyde Park,南部有一座軍人記念館,北部主路徑兩旁種滿參天的大樹,形成一個綠色的又高又尖的蓬,壯觀之餘也襯托出軍人記念館的莊嚴。而位於悉尼海港環形碼頭(Circular Quay)旁的皇家植物園,也是林蔭處處,要三數人才能環抱的大樹隨處可見,相信每棵也有百多年的歷史,足讓我們看到公園的保育工作做得有多好。皇家植物園由於地勢比周圍略高,而且景觀開揚,又位處海邊,所以是飽覽兩大景點——歌劇院和海港大橋——的上佳地點。















ANZAC memorial (left) and the plaza in front of the memorial (right)
軍人記念館(左)和館前的廣場(右)
















The tree-lined path in Hyde Park (left) and the statue of Captain Cook, who was the first European to land in Australia - in Sydney, in fact
Hyde Park的林蔭路(左)和首個在澳洲登陸的歐洲人庫克船長(右),他正是在悉尼登陸




The Sydney Harbour Bridge from the Royal Botanic Gardens
從皇家植物園遠眺海港大橋









The Government House, residence for the Governor of New South Wales
新南威爾士州總督府


















The trees inside the Gardens 植物園內的大樹















The Gardens came alive with so many birds!
植物園的雀鳥為公園增添不少生氣











Another good vantage point is the tower at the end of the Overseas Passenger Terminal, where international cruise ships berth. The tower offers a panoramic view of the harbour and the surrounding Opera House, Harbour Bridge, the Circular Quay and the historic district of The Rocks nearby as well as the suburb of North Sydney on the other side of the harbour. There was an unexpectedly pleasant surprise when my father and I were taking night shots on the tower on 12th December! A few cruise liners were visiting Sydney during our days in Sydney, including one making her maiden voyage. It was such an important occasion that the Governor of New South Wales was to host the christening of the cruise liner, as part of the many celebratory events which generated so much buzz around the harbour. My father and I were taking turns to take photos with the Opera House in the background. All of a sudden we heard a couple of loud bangs, and when we turned around we saw the start of some fireworks! We were so overjoyed because we weren’t expecting to see it, and I filmed the whole event on my camera. Although there was only one boat from where the fireworks were launched, but the variety of colours and patterns was so professional and certainly on par with large public events like the annual New Year’s Eve fireworks in Sydney. No wonder others on the tower jokingly wished ‘Happy New Year’ to each other at the close of fireworks. I originally thought that the fireworks were part of the christening celebrations for the cruise liner, but as the so many well-groomed party guests made their way to the tower for photos, it then dawned on me that the fireworks were for a wedding celebration! I wonder who it was that could afford such an extravaganza.

另一個地點就是海外郵輪碼頭(Overseas Passenger Terminal)盡頭的塔,在塔上可全方位把歌劇院、大橋、碼頭旁古色古香的岩石區(The Rocks)、環形碼頭、海港乃至海港彼岸的北悉尼區(North Sydney)全部景色盡收眼底,12月12日那晚在塔上拍夜景時更有一大驚喜!我們在悉尼那幾天,剛好有三兩艘大型郵輪入港,其中一艘更是處女航,有勞新南威爾士州總督主持下水禮,12日那晚在郵輪碼頭舉行慶祝活節,熱鬧非常,那時我和家父輪流以歌劇院作背景拍照,突然海上傳來嘭嘭數響,轉身一望,原來是放煙火,令我們意想不到,我趕緊用相機在煙火以知片拍下來。煙火水準甚為專業,雖祇有一條小艇發放,但款式和色彩千變萬化,可媲美像悉尼每年的除夕煙火般大型盛事,怪不得煙火剛落時身旁的西人都開玩笑說「新年快樂」了。我起初還以為煙火是郵輪慶祝之一,但後來看到身穿盛裝的賓客陸續從郵輪碼頭的餐廳走過來輪流拍照,原來那場煙火是結婚的助興節目!結婚也能在悉尼海港放煙火,果然厲害!



Festivities for the cruise liner on its maiden voyage
處女航的連串慶祝活動

















The Opera House and Harbour Bridge by night
歌劇院和海港大橋的夜景






Firework surprise! (Click to view video.) 突如奇來的煙火!(可點擊觀看短片)
















The Rocks with its steady stream of traffic (the Christmas Tree on the right is made of empty glass bottles)
車水馬龍的岩石區(右圖的聖誕樹由舊玻璃瓶砌成)



It’s certainly exceeded my expectations that I was able to see something new and unexpected in the three days even though I’ve been to this city a few times in the past.

能夠抽出三天到一個旅遊多次的城市看看不同和新奇的東西,這個行程沒有令我失望。

Comments

璟璟 said…
在大雪纷飞的北半球的冬天里感受阳光海岸南半球的夏天~~奇妙旅程~~~Thank you~
Anonymous said…
Sydney is surely a beautiful city. I have spent a few years there. It is a perfect place for retirement.
GK said…
Boundaryinterface:
You must know Sydney better than I! Where did you live?
The bayside suburbs along Sydney Harbour are definitely perfect for retirement, and for someone used to London property prices like you, I'm sure those Sydney suburbs must be a bargain! But at the same time, there are a few less than desirable suburbs in Sydney that you'd rather not be in.
Anonymous said…
I stayed in one of a quiet suburb in the north. I miss the blue sky and perfect weather in Sydney. Oh... also the beach...

Actually the property price in Sydney is quiet high... you know places like Mosman... I don't think I can ever afford a place there.

Popular posts from this blog

正字正確

廣州最近掀起保衛廣東話運動,早前星期日明報副刊一篇 文章 ,已對此作了精譬分析,我也不必插嘴了。 不過我想談談另一個相連的問題,相信久不久也會困擾好些港人,就是怎樣才算「正確」、「正統」的書面語。 我們自少便被老師耳提面命,廣東話絕不可用於寫作(雖然現在大行其道,我在網上留言甚至偶而寫電郵都會用廣東話),粵語和港式詞彙應以書面語(以普通話為標準的用語)取代,於是把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜,諸如此類,從小已習慣,我也沒異議。 但香港實在很多獨有的或跟國內有差別的詞彙,應用於主要給香港人看的場合當然沒問題,但國內或其他華人就可能覺得蹩腳甚至不一定明白。同樣國內的好些用詞,港人看到也會覺得有點不自然甚至礙眼。我寫網誌不時都會掙扎,究竟用國內的用詞好(我想一般來說應該是比較「正規」的,而且近幾年跟來自國內的人多了交往,或多或少都學到一點他們的用語),還是香港的說法好(始終不少讀者都是香港人,用上國內的詞語他們或許會覺得有點怪怪的),所以我盡可能兩者兼用,港式說法通常以括號並列,但我有時祇會用國內的用詞,也有時祇用香港的說法,可見我也往往拿不定主意。 問題是應該怎樣劃界線,區別「正確」和「不正確」的書面用語呢?我們應該遵從甚麼的「標準」?比方說在香港,學生寫了一句「我的志願是太空人」,公認是沒有問題的,老師一般也不會勉強學生寫「我的志願是航天員」,好了,這樣便是承認了香港和國內的用語確有區別,但既然如此,為甚麼把該句寫成「我嘅志願係太空人」時,老師便一定不會容許?又或者為甚麼寫作時硬要把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜?這道界線是誰定的,定立時又有甚麼理據?香港可不像很多國家般,有一個高高在上的法定語文機構(例如法國的Académie française),又或有權威性的詞典(例如英國的牛津字典,和國內的辭海),對語文作出一定規範,難免令人寫作時感到無所適從,甚麼香港和粵語詞彙可以用於書面、哪些不可。 用語的取向,也涉及文化取態的問題,我像一般港人一樣也認同寫作時要用書面語,盡量跟隨普通話的「標準」,但不會全盤用國內的詞彙和行文,一來不習慣,二來不免總有種維護本土文化的潛意識,特別是香港和國內社會制度上和文化上始終有點隔閡,這種矛盾不一定輕易化解。 究竟甚麼才算是「標準」、「正確」的書面中文,我想大概沒有「標準答案」,往往靠個人的見識和學養才可作出定奪,但隨著香港跟國內交往越來越

Newborn, new experiences (1) 新生兒,新體會(1)

The birth of our daughter at the end of September marks a new chapter and brings about new life experiences for me and my wife. 小女9月底出生,為我和太太揭開人生新一章,也帶來新的體驗。 Mum was admitted to a nearby public hospital for the birth. The maternity ward is a lifely and buzzling place, subdivided into many rooms occupied by up to 4 mums and their babies at a time. Visiting hours is from 08:00 to 20:00, and up to one person can visit at one time and two different people each day. These limitations are part of the hospital's covid policies when the rest of the society has moved on as if nothing had happened - apparently there used to be no limit to visitations before covid, so a dad could in fact accompany the mum and baby all night long. One long-lasting impression from the maternity ward was the symphony of baby cries in which all babies took their turns to join including mine. Calming down the baby was almost impossible in this ambience and was very tough on mum especially when she was battling her

不求甚解,可以嗎?

端午節在尖沙咀海傍的無人機燈光表演,事後廣受網民嘲笑俗氣、像長輩圖等,屈原「現身」在空中飄更讓我覺得是其於死忌顯靈,很是詭異。 我在臉書轉發了ReNews的報導,想不到有人會點讚,而且是一個多年沒見的外國人,我納悶她究竟喜歡什麼、知否「到底發生什麼事」,只可猜想是她從沒見過用無人機砌出漢字,欣賞此藝術吧。 我在港大工作時,有國內同事有次跟我路過英皇書院時,對我說他對那學校沒好感,因為他討厭楊受成。我聽了先是心中有點驚訝,但沒流露出來,並笑着解釋道:英皇是英國國皇的意思,英文叫King's College,是政府辦學,跟楊受成的英皇集團一點關係也沒有!那同事沒意會背後的殖民史,更與搞娛樂事業的公司穿鑿附會,不過不應嘲笑,我反而覺得其不把自己困於校園、留意附近社區之精神可嘉(很多港人一向覺得國內人來港後往往不踏出自己人的小圈子呢)。 文藝創作和社會/社區的形成,固然與背後的歷史和文化息息相關,但評析時又是否完全不可抽離背景呢? 近年對香港流行曲的評論(尤其對當紅的鏡仔),時常着重「咬字」,例如姜濤最新的《DUMMY》就獲多人稱讚咬字清晰聽得明歌詞。歌手追求發音清晰,固然對歌唱是有好處,但如以發音不清就批評歌曲又會不會太輕易抺殺了整個作品?世界音樂如此多元,不懂外語是否就要封閉自己不接觸其他地區的音樂?而就算我們這些外國人聽得懂外語歌詞,我們大概也不夠資格評論歌手咬字是否清晰標準吧。正如閱讀文字作品,讀者又會不會因為不明白其中幾個字的意思而認為作品不值一讀?又如果對作品的評語只是「用字淺顯易明」,除非是兒童書,不然作者也會啼笑皆非或覺得膚淺吧? 不求甚解,原意是要領會大意而不必着眼於字眼之意思,到今天則演變成不深入理解。了解相關背景,明白作品的細節,固然定品評和鑑賞甚有裨益,但現實中大家受時間和個人知識所限,往往只能對背景資料簡單了解、略知一二,只可看到事物較表面之處。然而,不完全理解創作背後的原意,也不一定妨礙受眾對其之欣賞和評價;不完全理解一地的歷史,也不全然妨礙人們對當地建築、規劃等表達讚賞或提出疑問。聽歌不要執着要求歌手字正腔圓,歌詞大意聽一兩遍一般都可明瞭大概,就算不想深究歌詞,旋律節奏等也可以是欣賞音樂的切入點。不過話說回來,無人機燈光表演,如果主辦者用心思考主題和舖排,再在字體設計下功夫,同時彰顯漢字的內涵和美學,豈非更妙?