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Barcelona de Gaudí 巴塞羅那——高廸篇

Barcelona is the playground of many celebrated architects, including the genius architect Antoni Gaudí whose masterpieces can be spotted all over the city, and whose legacy is still felt today.

巴塞羅那是多個著名建築師一展所長的地方,其中以高廸(Antoni Gaudí)的影響力最為深遠,其代表作散佈巴塞羅那多個角落。


While they may appear to break all conventions and exist only in the land of fantasies, Gaudí’s designs also have real practicality in mind. Inspired by his observations on nature and own talent, Gaudí’s designs were sought after by those from the upper echelons of the Barcelona society who were intent on displaying their wealth and distinctive tastes through architecture. The prosperous times at the turn of the 20th century has thus made for architects like Gaudí to showcase their abilities to the fullest.

高廸的建築設計,打破傳統框框,把實用性揉合在無窮的相像力中,除了是出自其天份和對大自然的觀察外,十九世紀未巴塞羅那的環境也成就了他,那時巴塞羅那經濟蓬勃,造就了不少追求品味和新異的富貴人家,他們都樂意聘用名建築師為他們設計獨特的建築。


Some of Gaudí’s most well-known creations are located along the Passeig de Gràcia, like the Casa Batlló which was redeveloped and renovated for the family of Batlló in the late 19th century. The façade with its windows and balconies was just a taste of what to see inside the building. The interior, from the floor to the ceiling and the walls, resembled an underwater world through the décor and the choice of colours.

位於Passeig de Gràcia的巴特由之家(Casa Batlló)便是其中一例,該幢樓房由巴特由出資,聘請高廸為其翻新,從街上觀其窗戶和陽台已可看出高廸與眾不同的風格,裡面更是個屬於幻想的世界,不論地版、天花和牆壁,都滲入了海洋世界的元素。












Casa Batlló and its characteristic windows
巴特由之家及其獨特的窗戶












The design of the fire place (left) and the ceiling in the main hall (right) drew on elements of sea shells.
取暖生火爐(左)和正廳天花(右)的設計,取材自海貝。



The wavy walls and floor of the court yard
庭園波浪形的牆和地面



















The brightly-lid central atrium and its choice of blue colour for the sea
光猛的天井,牆身鋪了象徵海洋的藍色瓷磚















The rooms (left) and corridors (right) of the top floor with the characteristic arches
頂層房間(左)和走廊(右)的弧形支撐












Chimneys at the roof 天台上的煙囱


Just a stone’s throw away is another Gaudí’s famous building of Casa Milà, also known as La Pedrera (meaning quarry in Catalan), which used to be a private residential building of the wealthy industrialist called Milà. One floor of the building now houses a display of a typical household from the 1920s. While there may not be so much flair in the interior design, Casa Milà has kept some of the same principles as Casa Batlló, including the replacement of vertical columns by curved supports, and an atrium in the centre of the building for ventilation and lighting the interiors.

同一條街,離巴特由之家不遠,是高廸的另一代表作——米拉之家(Casa Milà,又稱La Pedrera,卡泰隆語作礦場),該幢大廈從前是屬於富商米拉的私人住宅,室內其中一層陳列了1920年代的家居用品和佈置,設計較為平實,但和巴特由之家一脈相承,就是室內全無樑柱,全靠拱形支撐,樓宇中央有個大天井,用以通風和透光。



What does Casa Milà remind you of?
你覺得米拉之家像甚麼?
















Living in the 1920s 1920年代的生活











More chimneys of fantasy
更多與眾不同的煙囱








Another central atrium used for lighting
另一個用以透光的天井

















Cool views from the roof: Passeig de Gràcia (left) and the cathedral of La Sagrada Familia (right)
天台上俯視Passeig de Gràcia(左)和遠望聖家大教堂(右)


A devout Catholic, Gaudí devoted the latter half on his life in constructing the cathedral of La Sagrada Família (Holy Family). This project has taken a long time and is still taking its shape as we speak! It will most likely require at least another 10 years till completion, and is quite possibly the last cathedral being constructed during our live time. No surprise, therefore, that parts of the cathedral still resembled more of a construction site. The basement of the cathedral is home to a workshop where models for the various parts of the cathedral were put together for in-depth studies before their eventual construction.

高廸篤信天主教,下半生潛心於興建聖家大教堂(La Sagrada Família),那教堂不祇未能於有生之年竣工,到今時今日還在施工,相信要最少十多年才能完成,亦可能是世上興建的最後一座大教堂,所以大教堂基本上跟工地無異。教堂的地窖有個工場,專家按圖則,把教堂不同部分以模型構建,深入研究後,才會開始動工。













La Sagrada Família from the back
聖家大教堂背面













Sculptures and decorations at the front entrance
前面正門的裝飾和雕塑








Inside the cathedral
大教堂內部

















The cathedral is still under construction!
大教堂仍在施工中!



The master plan of La Sagrada Família
大教堂的構想圖


























The workshop (top left) producing many models of the cathedral
地窖的工場(左上)構建教堂不同部分的模型



The catenary shape featured frequently in Gaudí's works
高廸常用的懸鏈線







Josep Maria Bocabella, the founder of La Sagrada Família 聖家大教堂的創立人Josep Maria Bocabella

















It was possible to take a lift to the roof to see the many spires of the cathedral (left and centre), then work down the spiralling staircase (right).
在大教堂可乘升降機上頂層近距離觀看不同尖聳(左、中),然後經螺旋形樓梯回地面(右)。


A bit farther out from the city centre is Parc Güell, an unsuccessful property development venture by Güell later turned into a public park with the help of Gaudí. The park is built on a hill, and its main focal point is the main terrace which is surrounded by a serpentine bench covered by a colourful mosaic of ceramic tiles. The terrace rests on a series of columns which form an undercover hall. The two houses (Los pabellones) at the entrance closest to the terrace resembled gingerbread houses, while the stairway linking the entrance with the terrace was decorated with various mythical sculptures. Such a surreal setting is so unmistakably Gaudí! The highest point in the park is a mound with three crucifixes (Turó de les Tres Creus) where a panoramic view of Barcelona can be easily enjoyed.

離市中心稍遠的桂爾公園(Parc Güell),本來是商人桂爾的房地產項目,但乏人問津而改建成公園。公園依山而建,焦點所在就是公園中央的廣場,廣場被波浪形、鋪砌了五顏六色碎瓦片的椅包圍,由下面的一列柱支撐,最接近廣場的出入口有兩座像薑餅屋的小屋,廣場和出入口之間的三段梯級,每段中央的噴水池各有不同主題的雕塑,整個景觀看來有點光怪陸離,正是高廸的特色!公國的最高點,有個豎了三個十字架的小丘(Turó de les Tres Creus),是俯瞰全城的好地方。




The road leading uphill to Parc Güell
登上桂爾公園的道路



















The viaducts inside the park
公園內的高架道
















The main terrace 中央廣場










The wavy mosaic bench 色彩繽紛的彎曲椅



The hall (Sala Hipóstila) underneath the terrace
中央廣場下的百柱廊




















Along the staircase from the main terrace
中央廣場至山腳的梯級








The two houses (Los pabellones = pavilions) at the bottom of the staircase
梯級底的兩家小屋






La Torre Rosa, former residence of Gaudí and now a museum
高廸故居粉紅屋,現為博物館






The highest point of Parc Güell, the Turó de les Tres Creus
桂爾公園最高處















Views of Barcelona from Turó de les Tres Creus (also see the video clip below)
從小丘上俯瞰巴塞羅那(亦可看以下短片)








While tourists like me would be most impressed by the views of the park, the nearby residents were probably quite sick of the sights of tourists! They were hoping that some of us would get the message from their banner on the roof, but I thought most of us tourists would end up recommending yet more people to visit the park. It was simply too good to miss!

桂爾公園遊人如鯽,大抵是附近的民居受不了,所以便掛了個趕客的橫額,沒辦法,誰叫高廸那麼叫座?


Apart from the tourist crowd, Parc Güell also attracted a large number of school groups, some of which were there to learn the architectural splendour of Gaudí the master. It’s so lucky of these young kids that they get learn about the good stuff so early on in their lives – and perhaps I was witnessing a future Gaudí in the making!

除了遊客外,公園也吸引一團團學生,旅行之餘,亦來見識高廸這個高人的傑作,這些小朋友可真幸福,自小便學習欣賞建築——而且是從名家之作入手,可憐香港的小朋友,眼光早被醜陋的屏風樓或千篇一律的建築(不論大廈或商場)局限了!

Comments

dino said…
在網上查閱"德國旅遊", 剛巧遇上這個blog.

感覺你這位在異鄉的香港人, 很親切, 謝謝你的分享 ^^
GK said…
Dino你好,多謝捧場。你有興趣來德國旅遊嗎?寫了這麼多其他國家,應該很快輪到寫德國了!
Subtropicalboy said…
Simply amazing!

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