Skip to main content

Innsbruck, in the cradle of the Alps 倚偎阿爾卑斯山的茵斯布魯克

Eight hours after a late phone call on Friday, I joined my friends on a trip across the border to Innsbruck, Austria.

Innsbruck should be well known to ski enthusiasts, as a ski town and host city to the Winter Olympics. But for us non-skiers, the opportunity to get up close with the Alps is also a special experience. May proves to be a perfect time to visit the Alps. The snow hasn’t completely melted while the vegetation starts to grow again. This contrast is particularly colourful and startling under the blue sky and plentiful sunshine. We took the cable car up the Nordpark region of the Alps, and trekked the last section up to the peak at Hafelekarspitze. The layout of Innsbruck became immediately clear from the peak. It’s a city founded in a valley surrounded by the Alps and an extensive area of lush-green, with the river Inn snaking through the city.

My friend and I took the chance to have lunch in the mountains before heading back downhill. After a whirlwind walk through the Alpine Zoo, we boarded the sight-seeing bus to the Ambras Castle in the suburbs. What caught most of our attention, in the garden of the castle, was a peacock which seemed to understand Chinese. Every time we called it ‘You pretty bird’ in Chinese, it would immediately show off its beautiful plumage without fail, put it up for enough time and go for a catwalk so that everyone had the turn to admire the beautiful colours. We thought that the peacock was probably a Chinese migrant and was only too glad to put on a good show when it saw some compatriots like us!

We took the sight-seeing bus towards the evening, and alighted at the Triumphpforte (Triumph Arch) to set off our walk into the Old Town. The buildings and their architecture were so well preserved that many of those were still standing after several hundreds of years, including the Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof) which was erected since 1500 and is a must for all tourists. After walking through the Old Town, we reached the Innbrücke (Inn Bridge). It’s probably the place where Innsbruck shows its most scenic side, where the river Inn, the Old Town and the Alps all appear to meet. This says so much about how Innsbruck’s pretty scenery and heritage are shaped by the Alps.


友人週五晚上來電邀約,八小時後我們便起程,跨境往奧地利的茵斯布魯克(Innsbruck)。

愛好滑雪的人,大概對茵斯布魯克這滑雪勝地也不會陌生,我們這些門外漢,也得見識一下阿爾卑斯山的景色。五月天果然是登山遊覽的好時候,天氣和煦,藍天一片,積雪還未溶掉,又正值萬物滋長之時,各種色彩在陽光下都份外鮮明,我們乘吊車登上北山(Nordpark),再走一段路上到Hafelekar山頂,但見山腳的茵斯布魯克,在阿爾卑斯山的環抱中,茵河(Inn)流通其中,四周青蔥,好一個山谷之城,充滿自然氣息。

難得上山,我們也趁機在那裡吃頓午飯才罷休。下山後匆匆在阿爾卑斯山動物園兜了一圈,便乘觀光巴士往市郊的Ambras城堡,那裡最吸引我們的,倒是城堡花園內的孔雀,彷彿會聽中文,祇消聽到我們讚美「漂亮、漂亮!」,便忙不迭給我們開屏,每讚一次便表演一次,還繞場一週,好讓全場觀眾都看得清清楚楚,我們猜想,孔雀大概是中國移民,難得同鄉捧場,自然格外賣力。

黃昏時從城堡坐觀光巴士,在小凱旋門下車,取道往舊城區。舊城區古色古香,幾百年的古老建築不少仍保留完好,包括在1500年建成而遊客必到的黃金屋頂,穿過舊城,來到茵河橋(Innbrücke),但見舊城區、茵河和阿爾卑斯山融為一體,正好展現出茵斯布魯克此山谷小城和阿爾卑斯山交織出來的特色和景觀。


Date of visit: 19 May, 2007 遊覽日期:2007年5月19日














The view from the cable car station at the foot of the mountain (left), and a kindergarten near the staion (right)
從山腳吊車站的景色(左)及吊車站附近的幼稚園(右)




The cable car station at Hafelekar Peak
Hafelekar山頂的吊車站

















Leisurely times and scenes up on the mountains
山上的悠閑景緻



Innsbruck from the mountains
從山上俯視茵斯布魯克















A valley and its forest in the mountains
山巒中綠油油的山谷










Flying high ... 翱翔萬里










Schloss Ambras (Ambras Castle) Ambras城堡




A beautiful day for wedding
城堡內舉行婚禮








'Hello, my name is Handsome.'
表演慾甚強的孔雀








The Alpine Zoo is not the only place to see the animals!
(Photo taken in front of a shop near the Kaiserappartement)

茵斯布魯克有很多「有心肝」的動物
(在皇帝御所附近某店外攝)













Two sides of the Triumphpforte (Triumph Arch)
小凱旋門的兩面





















Views along the Marie-Theresien-Strasse
Marie-Theresien街沿途景色













The Goldenes Dachl (the Golden Roof), with the roof coated with copper tiles
黃金屋,其屋頂實由銅片鋪砌













Some really old buildings in the Old Town (left and middle), and an undercover passage reminiscent of Berne (right)
舊城區歷史悠久的古老建築(左、中),及類似在瑞士伯恩所見的走廊(右)













Restuarants that have been around for at least 500 years! (Left: Ottoburg)
幾百年歷史的餐室(左圖者名為Ottoburg)




Quintessential Innsbruck by River Inn
茵斯布魯克最景色怡人的一面







Comments

C.M. said…
Innsbruck and Salzburg, are two big diamonds on the Alps!

Vow... envy you.
Anonymous said…
Innsbruck is surely a lovely Austiran town. I like it alot too! But I didn't go up to Hafelekar the last time. It looks very nice in your pictures.
Subtropicalboy said…
D 相咁靚﹗放大d就更好呀﹗
Unknown said…
著名的阿爾卑斯山我發夢也沒想過會去
你竟然去了,太好了
Anonymous said…
I love Innsbruck too! When Jac and I were in this lovely little town, we just seem to have too little time in enjoying its beauty to the last drop. Wish I can re-visit there one day!

Popular posts from this blog

正字正確

廣州最近掀起保衛廣東話運動,早前星期日明報副刊一篇 文章 ,已對此作了精譬分析,我也不必插嘴了。 不過我想談談另一個相連的問題,相信久不久也會困擾好些港人,就是怎樣才算「正確」、「正統」的書面語。 我們自少便被老師耳提面命,廣東話絕不可用於寫作(雖然現在大行其道,我在網上留言甚至偶而寫電郵都會用廣東話),粵語和港式詞彙應以書面語(以普通話為標準的用語)取代,於是把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜,諸如此類,從小已習慣,我也沒異議。 但香港實在很多獨有的或跟國內有差別的詞彙,應用於主要給香港人看的場合當然沒問題,但國內或其他華人就可能覺得蹩腳甚至不一定明白。同樣國內的好些用詞,港人看到也會覺得有點不自然甚至礙眼。我寫網誌不時都會掙扎,究竟用國內的用詞好(我想一般來說應該是比較「正規」的,而且近幾年跟來自國內的人多了交往,或多或少都學到一點他們的用語),還是香港的說法好(始終不少讀者都是香港人,用上國內的詞語他們或許會覺得有點怪怪的),所以我盡可能兩者兼用,港式說法通常以括號並列,但我有時祇會用國內的用詞,也有時祇用香港的說法,可見我也往往拿不定主意。 問題是應該怎樣劃界線,區別「正確」和「不正確」的書面用語呢?我們應該遵從甚麼的「標準」?比方說在香港,學生寫了一句「我的志願是太空人」,公認是沒有問題的,老師一般也不會勉強學生寫「我的志願是航天員」,好了,這樣便是承認了香港和國內的用語確有區別,但既然如此,為甚麼把該句寫成「我嘅志願係太空人」時,老師便一定不會容許?又或者為甚麼寫作時硬要把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜?這道界線是誰定的,定立時又有甚麼理據?香港可不像很多國家般,有一個高高在上的法定語文機構(例如法國的Académie française),又或有權威性的詞典(例如英國的牛津字典,和國內的辭海),對語文作出一定規範,難免令人寫作時感到無所適從,甚麼香港和粵語詞彙可以用於書面、哪些不可。 用語的取向,也涉及文化取態的問題,我像一般港人一樣也認同寫作時要用書面語,盡量跟隨普通話的「標準」,但不會全盤用國內的詞彙和行文,一來不習慣,二來不免總有種維護本土文化的潛意識,特別是香港和國內社會制度上和文化上始終有點隔閡,這種矛盾不一定輕易化解。 究竟甚麼才算是「標準」、「正確」的書面中文,我想大概沒有「標準答案」,往往靠個人的見識和學養才可作出定奪,但隨著香港跟國內交往越來越

Newborn, new experiences (1) 新生兒,新體會(1)

The birth of our daughter at the end of September marks a new chapter and brings about new life experiences for me and my wife. 小女9月底出生,為我和太太揭開人生新一章,也帶來新的體驗。 Mum was admitted to a nearby public hospital for the birth. The maternity ward is a lifely and buzzling place, subdivided into many rooms occupied by up to 4 mums and their babies at a time. Visiting hours is from 08:00 to 20:00, and up to one person can visit at one time and two different people each day. These limitations are part of the hospital's covid policies when the rest of the society has moved on as if nothing had happened - apparently there used to be no limit to visitations before covid, so a dad could in fact accompany the mum and baby all night long. One long-lasting impression from the maternity ward was the symphony of baby cries in which all babies took their turns to join including mine. Calming down the baby was almost impossible in this ambience and was very tough on mum especially when she was battling her

不求甚解,可以嗎?

端午節在尖沙咀海傍的無人機燈光表演,事後廣受網民嘲笑俗氣、像長輩圖等,屈原「現身」在空中飄更讓我覺得是其於死忌顯靈,很是詭異。 我在臉書轉發了ReNews的報導,想不到有人會點讚,而且是一個多年沒見的外國人,我納悶她究竟喜歡什麼、知否「到底發生什麼事」,只可猜想是她從沒見過用無人機砌出漢字,欣賞此藝術吧。 我在港大工作時,有國內同事有次跟我路過英皇書院時,對我說他對那學校沒好感,因為他討厭楊受成。我聽了先是心中有點驚訝,但沒流露出來,並笑着解釋道:英皇是英國國皇的意思,英文叫King's College,是政府辦學,跟楊受成的英皇集團一點關係也沒有!那同事沒意會背後的殖民史,更與搞娛樂事業的公司穿鑿附會,不過不應嘲笑,我反而覺得其不把自己困於校園、留意附近社區之精神可嘉(很多港人一向覺得國內人來港後往往不踏出自己人的小圈子呢)。 文藝創作和社會/社區的形成,固然與背後的歷史和文化息息相關,但評析時又是否完全不可抽離背景呢? 近年對香港流行曲的評論(尤其對當紅的鏡仔),時常着重「咬字」,例如姜濤最新的《DUMMY》就獲多人稱讚咬字清晰聽得明歌詞。歌手追求發音清晰,固然對歌唱是有好處,但如以發音不清就批評歌曲又會不會太輕易抺殺了整個作品?世界音樂如此多元,不懂外語是否就要封閉自己不接觸其他地區的音樂?而就算我們這些外國人聽得懂外語歌詞,我們大概也不夠資格評論歌手咬字是否清晰標準吧。正如閱讀文字作品,讀者又會不會因為不明白其中幾個字的意思而認為作品不值一讀?又如果對作品的評語只是「用字淺顯易明」,除非是兒童書,不然作者也會啼笑皆非或覺得膚淺吧? 不求甚解,原意是要領會大意而不必着眼於字眼之意思,到今天則演變成不深入理解。了解相關背景,明白作品的細節,固然定品評和鑑賞甚有裨益,但現實中大家受時間和個人知識所限,往往只能對背景資料簡單了解、略知一二,只可看到事物較表面之處。然而,不完全理解創作背後的原意,也不一定妨礙受眾對其之欣賞和評價;不完全理解一地的歷史,也不全然妨礙人們對當地建築、規劃等表達讚賞或提出疑問。聽歌不要執着要求歌手字正腔圓,歌詞大意聽一兩遍一般都可明瞭大概,就算不想深究歌詞,旋律節奏等也可以是欣賞音樂的切入點。不過話說回來,無人機燈光表演,如果主辦者用心思考主題和舖排,再在字體設計下功夫,同時彰顯漢字的內涵和美學,豈非更妙?