Skip to main content

Historial Berlin (3) - Sanssouci Park 歷史與柏林(3):忘憂園

Potsdam is a ‘capital outside the capital’ of the Prussians, now located on the outskirts of Berlin. The Prussian kings built numerous castles and buildings around a garden now called the Sanssouci Park. After successive expansions of the park and construction works, the park is now home to 20 or so buildings for the royals. One of my friends wondered if everyone in the royal family was fortunate enough to occupy each of these buildings.

We entered the park from the west, and we first visited the New Palace (Neues Palais). With its polished marble floor, we had to put on their special slippers when walking inside the palace – it’s actually not so much walking but feels more like ice-skating! One of the most memorable parts inside the palace was a grand ballroom decorated with sea shells on all its walls. Just imagine how cool it would be to hold a party there with an underwater theme! It’s a pity I can’t share any photos here because photography was forbidden, so you should see it for yourself!

After the New Palace, we walked through the woods of Sanssouci Park until we reached the Orangerie palace, which was built on the top of a small hill. The garden of the Orangerie was terraced and each level was decorated differently, providing a different view when looking uphill from the foot of Orangerie and when looking downhill from the top of palace. The interior décor of the Palace was not particularly remarkable compared to other palaces, but its gallery was noteworthy for where the pictures originated. One of the kings was a fan of Raffaelo’s paintings (Raffaelo is one of the most famous artists of the Renaissance era), but the poor king could not afford the originals! He asked other artists to make exact copies of the masterpieces, and he got pretty good value for his money too! Lucky he lived in an age before copyright laws existed …

The Sanssouci Park would not be so-named without a Sanssouci Palace. Unfortunately we had to dash back to Berlin Central Station so that I could catch a train back to Munich in time. We only had a look of the Sanssouci Palace from the outside and walk through the terraced gardens outside the palace on the way out.

Money is already a ‘problem’ from the days when the king could only afford replicas of paintings. A more serious and visual problem, however, is the maintenance of the buildings. For example, the cracks in the walls of the New Palace and its general upkeep speak of how little attention and resources had been directed to its maintenance. Who knows whether it is because the former East German government was too poor to care, or now there is inadequate state funding or proceeds from admissions. The Sanssouci Park is often touted as the Versailles of Germany, but its run-down state is just no match to its French counterpart. All three of us felt somewhat disappointed by this, and what a pity as Sanssouci is a UNESCO cultural heritage. I hope the authorities are working hard to restore the whole park and the palaces to its former glory!


在柏林外圍的波茨坦,是普魯斯帝國的另一個據地。歷任皇帝不斷把公園擴充,又興建宮殿及其他建築物,一個本來不見很大的忘憂園,便有十來二十間房舍,我的朋友不禁問,是否皇室人人有份,一人一間?

我們從忘憂園西面而入,先參觀新宮殿(Neues Palais),由於全宮地板都由雲石鋪成,入內就得套穿特別的拖鞋,走路時就像滑冰。新宮殿最獨特之處,要算是牆壁由多種貝殼鋪砌的大廳,令人有置身海底之感,試想在那裡開舞會的情調!可惜宮內不准拍攝,大家祇好親身感受了。

從新宮殿走出來,穿過忘憂園的園林,便到建在小山上的橙宮(Orangerie),橙宮的花園從山腳到山上分成數層,每層佈置各有心思,不論從下仰望,或從橙宮之頂瞭瞰,都有不同的層次感。宮內裝飾比其他宮殿無太大特色,不過值得一提的是畫廊,收藏了某皇帝的心頭好——拉斐爾·桑喬的作品(拉斐爾·桑喬乃文藝復興年代的名畫家),但皇帝並非最有錢之輩,真品付擔不起,便命人抄畫,實行低消費享受。皇帝生活在沒有版權法的年代,真好!

忘憂園當然有個忘憂宮(Sanssouci Palace),不過我們時間匆匆,祇是在外圍繞了一圈,便經由宮外梯田式的花園離開,趕搭火車到柏林火車總站,好讓我準時回慕尼黑。

談到錢,便不得不提宮殿的保養,不知是前東德政府窮,還是現在經費及門票收入不足,新宮殿的日久失修,從牆角及牆身的裂紋,以至整體的粉飾都可見一斑,我們一行三人,都不約而同認為,忘憂園縱然被稱為柏林的凡爾塞宮,卻遠遠比巴黎的失色。忘憂園貴為聯合國文化遺產,真的要加把勁!


Date of Visit: 15 August, 2006 參觀日期:2006年8月15日


Neues Palais - the exterior 新宮殿外貌























The Orangerie and its Gardens 橙宮及其花園
































Sanssouci Palace and its Garden 忘憂宮及其花園





















And for some memories that we can 'hang' onto in Potsdam ...
還有波茨坦令人「掛」念的見聞......










... like the rhino dangling in mid-air (left) and the barbecue hawker hanging a griller around his neck (right)!
包括半天吊的犀牛(左)及把燒烤爐掛在脖子,賣燒烤的小販

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

正字正確

廣州最近掀起保衛廣東話運動,早前星期日明報副刊一篇 文章 ,已對此作了精譬分析,我也不必插嘴了。 不過我想談談另一個相連的問題,相信久不久也會困擾好些港人,就是怎樣才算「正確」、「正統」的書面語。 我們自少便被老師耳提面命,廣東話絕不可用於寫作(雖然現在大行其道,我在網上留言甚至偶而寫電郵都會用廣東話),粵語和港式詞彙應以書面語(以普通話為標準的用語)取代,於是把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜,諸如此類,從小已習慣,我也沒異議。 但香港實在很多獨有的或跟國內有差別的詞彙,應用於主要給香港人看的場合當然沒問題,但國內或其他華人就可能覺得蹩腳甚至不一定明白。同樣國內的好些用詞,港人看到也會覺得有點不自然甚至礙眼。我寫網誌不時都會掙扎,究竟用國內的用詞好(我想一般來說應該是比較「正規」的,而且近幾年跟來自國內的人多了交往,或多或少都學到一點他們的用語),還是香港的說法好(始終不少讀者都是香港人,用上國內的詞語他們或許會覺得有點怪怪的),所以我盡可能兩者兼用,港式說法通常以括號並列,但我有時祇會用國內的用詞,也有時祇用香港的說法,可見我也往往拿不定主意。 問題是應該怎樣劃界線,區別「正確」和「不正確」的書面用語呢?我們應該遵從甚麼的「標準」?比方說在香港,學生寫了一句「我的志願是太空人」,公認是沒有問題的,老師一般也不會勉強學生寫「我的志願是航天員」,好了,這樣便是承認了香港和國內的用語確有區別,但既然如此,為甚麼把該句寫成「我嘅志願係太空人」時,老師便一定不會容許?又或者為甚麼寫作時硬要把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜?這道界線是誰定的,定立時又有甚麼理據?香港可不像很多國家般,有一個高高在上的法定語文機構(例如法國的Académie française),又或有權威性的詞典(例如英國的牛津字典,和國內的辭海),對語文作出一定規範,難免令人寫作時感到無所適從,甚麼香港和粵語詞彙可以用於書面、哪些不可。 用語的取向,也涉及文化取態的問題,我像一般港人一樣也認同寫作時要用書面語,盡量跟隨普通話的「標準」,但不會全盤用國內的詞彙和行文,一來不習慣,二來不免總有種維護本土文化的潛意識,特別是香港和國內社會制度上和文化上始終有點隔閡,這種矛盾不一定輕易化解。 究竟甚麼才算是「標準」、「正確」的書面中文,我想大概沒有「標準答案」,往往靠個人的見識和學養才可作出定奪,但隨著香港跟國內交往越來越...

Newborn, new experiences (1) 新生兒,新體會(1)

The birth of our daughter at the end of September marks a new chapter and brings about new life experiences for me and my wife. 小女9月底出生,為我和太太揭開人生新一章,也帶來新的體驗。 Mum was admitted to a nearby public hospital for the birth. The maternity ward is a lifely and buzzling place, subdivided into many rooms occupied by up to 4 mums and their babies at a time. Visiting hours is from 08:00 to 20:00, and up to one person can visit at one time and two different people each day. These limitations are part of the hospital's covid policies when the rest of the society has moved on as if nothing had happened - apparently there used to be no limit to visitations before covid, so a dad could in fact accompany the mum and baby all night long. One long-lasting impression from the maternity ward was the symphony of baby cries in which all babies took their turns to join including mine. Calming down the baby was almost impossible in this ambience and was very tough on mum especially when she was battling her...

吉隆坡(2)——離不開食

到吉隆坡旅遊,有什麼好做? 當然是入鄉隨俗,吃個飽!當你見到宜家家具店餐廳佔用兩層樓面,你也不禁懷疑,馬來西亞的宜家主要賣家具還是食物! 就算是到宗教的地方遊覽,食也是重要的一環! 其中一天我們到市邊錘的黑風洞(Batu Caves),那裡的重點是272級七彩階梯和梯頂的山洞。走進山洞,地面的嘈音和熱力頓然被清幽和清涼取代,很是洗滌心靈。不過到走回到山下時,看到很多人都輪着買新鮮椰子水,我也覺得,滿足心靈後也應滿足口福,給自己買一個即場砍開的椰子喝。 另一天的行程是到一小時車程外的雲頂高原作一天遊,除了山上的花花世界,山腰的岩水寺也同樣可以讓人暫時拋離現實世界,都是值得參觀。坐長途巴前往的雲頂高原要轉乘吊車登頂,但正值新的登山吊車年度維修,不可以直接搭吊車到岩水寺,唯有搭舊吊車到山頂後雇計程車前往。一口氣登頂,愈靠近山頂愈見到更多的雲霧飄過,雲頂此名果然起得沒錯! 下山時霧更濃 建岩水寺的人,真懂得選址,在山腰,背靠雲頂,面向山下,盡收大地精華以及四周山色。寺廟之地,有齋菜吃絕不為奇,但此地還可容下其他小食、 星巴克咖啡甚至榴槤攤檔,我也把握機會買一個新鮮榴槤現場吃,在寺的安寧中盡享榴槤香濃又香滑的精華! 回到雲頂高原,食的選擇則更豐富。不過我這次做資料搜集可算失策,查看多個英文網頁皆寫雲頂美食匱乏,甚至應該在山腳搭吊車的鎮填肚才上山,所以根本不知雲頂有什麼非嚐不可的食肆,而且我們剛上到山沒多久便覺肚餓,但因相信資料,連美式炸雞也光顧(雖也點了些有當地特色的食物),真令我們後悔。我不禁懷疑,那些評論是誰寫的,這麼離譜! 雲頂眾多食肆之一 雲頂除了吃,玩樂選擇也非常豐富,全集中在纜車站的大樓。我小時候已聽到什麼歌手到雲頂登台表演,所以那天也看到好幾張演唱會海報。喜歡碰運氣的,那裡有賭場,我們坐長途巴士時也聽得出有兩個上年紀的正有打算進賭場玩一下。此外,大樓有一個敞大的室內遊樂場,商場內名店琳琅滿目,消磨一整天甚至兩三天也沒問題。要住宿的話,雲頂有家號稱最世界最大、有最多客房的酒店,正反映旅遊業有多發達了。 ...