Skip to main content

Into the woods 偏向秋山行

Autumn is the best time for rambles in the countryside. There is no shortage of choices around Munich, from relaxing strolls to really challenging hikes.
秋天正是郊遊的好時候,慕尼黑附近郊野選擇甚多,由輕鬆到困難重重的都有。

My Hong Kong friend in Switzerland came to Munich for a weekend of catching up. After a big feast at the Oktoberfest and another friend’s place, we decided that the next day (26th September) would be a good day to take it easy. One of us suggested going for a ramble around the Schliersee lake, so we took the train to a village nearby and made our way through the fields and along the railway tracks to the Schliersee village.
我在瑞士的香港朋友到慕尼黑舊地重遊,到過啤酒節,然後還和其他朋友飽餐一頓,翌日(9月26日)當然得好好消化,所以其中一個朋友提議到慕尼黑附近的一個湖Schliersee,輕輕鬆鬆地遠足。我們坐火車到該湖附近的一條農村,穿過農田,再沿着火車軌,走到以該湖為名的小村。















Village life 農村生活
















On a different track 不同道
















The village of Schliersee Schliersee村



That day was pretty chilly, and we were struck by a tree that had gone completely yellow by the lake. It was a reminder that autumn has been lurking for a while behind the veil of warmer days earlier in the week, when I could still wear the traditional leather shorts to the Oktoberfest.
那天天氣微寒,我們在湖邊驀然發現一棵樹已徹底轉黃,前幾天還是很和暖,去啤酒節還可穿傳統的皮短褲,但那棵樹正好提醒我們,秋天其實已一直在悄悄等待了。













Autumn by the lake
湖畔的秋色








The signs of autumn were more conspicuous a week later (3rd October) when I went hiking with a friend in Lenggries. My friend decided to join a Facebook group which goes for regular hikes near Munich and has roped me in for hiking in the mountains near Lenggries with them.
一星期後(10月3日)跟另一個朋友到Lenggries遠足時,秋天的景緻更顯而易見。朋友在Facebook找到一班定期在慕尼黑附近遠足的小組,約我跟他們一塊兒登上Lenggries附近的高山。



Although she thought that the track should not be too difficult based on the information she got, we found not long into the hike that we had seriously underestimated the challenge ahead! The start of the track got gradually steeper, and because of the rain a couple of days earlier, the mud and rocks were still slippery. For the two of us who are not regular and serious hikers, it was indeed very onerous to negotiate through this tricky terrain and take care not to slip all the time. 看他們的資料,說路途不應太困難,但行程開始了沒多久我們才知道自己嚴重低估山路有多艱難,路徑不祇陡,而且因為早兩天才下過雨,不論是泥或是石都仍然濕滑,步步為營之餘還得當心滑倒,對我倆不常遠足的人來說簡直是畏途!















Physical and mental challenges ahead! 令身心皆受考驗的遠足路徑!


I had wanted to take photos regularly during the hike, but I decided against it and instead to put it in my backpack for a big part of the trip in order to protect this brand new camera. As we were panting and pausing frequently on the way uphill then navigating our way carefully downhill, we were stunned to see groups of elderly people who were flying past us on their walking poles. Their agility has totally disguised their real age and put us younger people to shame!
我本想邊走邊拍照,但為了保護新買的相機,還是把它放在背包好了,免得相機有何損傷。正當我們氣喘如牛地緩緩上山,又小心翼翼地下山,三五成群的退休長者拿着行山杖健步如飛的在我們身邊擦過,看他們如此矯健,真不像上了年紀,叫我倆自慚不如。











But of course I couldn't resist photo opportunities whenever we had a break!
當然有機會停下來歇息時我不會方過拍攝的時機!



These trees with bent branches were also worth a photo shot.
這些樹榦彎曲的樹也當然值得一拍。










Another uphill section awaited, but then the track were drier and less treacherous and it was time to enjoy the views of the beautiful autumnal woods. The colours of the trees were particularly striking under the brilliant sun and showed us the prettiest side of early autumn. The end of this uphill track was a hut where I finally had a chance to relax properly, a good chat with others in the group and a hearty venison goulash which was a just reward for the hard yards. But the sky started to turn dark shortly afterwards and we still had to go downhill to catch the train back to Munich. It was a race against time to go through the woods, and once outside we relied on the star light to guide us along an open path back to the town of Lenggries. Such was a strenuous day, and my thighs were still feeling the effects a couple of days on!
下山後再得上山,幸好那段路沒之前那麼濕和崎嶇,可放心邊走邊欣賞那剛剛轉黃的樹林,在陽光照射下份外鮮豔,展現出秋天迷人的一面,然後在山頂的旅舍,跟同行遠足的人邊聊邊喝,又嚐過鹿肉稠湯配麫條,之前如何辛苦驚險都補償了,不過食醉飲飽後,天色漸暗,我們得與時間競賽,趁還有陽光時穿過一個樹林,然後繼續摸黑下山,沿着開揚的路徑,依靠點點繁星,走路回到Lenggries坐火車回慕尼黑,就這樣勞役了一整天,而大腿過了兩、三天還在酸痛呢!



A more enjoyable part of the hike
終於有心情欣賞沿途風景了!




















The mountains near the hut (left) and the view from the hut (right)
山頂旅舍附近的山(左)和旅舍望出去的景色(右)



After the hike in Lenggries, I worked for 19 days straight and got thoroughly sick of it since I was basically working and living at the same place. On my day off I only wanted to run away for a change of scene, and when my friend in Ingolstadt asked me if I wanted to visit her there the next day (24th October), I didn’t think twice and agreed.
那次遠足後一連工作了19天,由於工作和住宿都是在研究所,到了不用工作的那一天,我實在太厭倦了,想盡方法要逃離,轉換環境,剛好住在Ingolstadt的澳洲朋友問我翌日(10月24日)有沒有興趣到Ingolstadt一遊,我一口答應了。



En route we passed by big stretches of woods with a variegation of bright red, brown, golden yellow and green, which would have been more striking had there been some sunshine. We stopped by a site of Roman ruins and admired at the building foundations that were still standing after two thousand years. We wondered how the Romans could build something so solid that it would last such a long time. (I feel so lucky that it was actually my second time visiting Roman ruins during this European trip, having been to those in Kaiseraugst near Basel before arriving in Germany.)
沿途經過大片樹林,色彩繽紛,鮮紅色、咖啡色、金黃色和綠色交雜在一起,祇是欠陽光的襯托,不然則更美。中途我們在一處古羅馬廢墟停下來參觀昔日建築物留下來的地基,不其然感嘆當時建築技術的精良,起碼地基也可抵住二千多年的風雨留給後人。(我來到慕尼黑前在瑞士巴塞爾附近的Kaiseraugst也有參觀古羅馬廢墟,有空再補記。一次歐洲之旅能到兩個國家的古羅馬村落遺跡,實屬難得。)















The remains of the Abusina fortress Abusina堡壘的遺址


The highlight of Weltenburg is its monastery which has been brewing beer since 1050 and is the oldest monastery brewery in the world. Of course I took the opportunity to taste the most famous beer of the monastery and bought a 5-litre keg back to my institute to share it with my colleagues. I was puzzled why monasteries would get into the business of brewing, and one of my colleagues said that it was a means for the church to provide some necessities to and make some money from the cities that it ruled in the past.
Weltenburg的最大賣點是修道院,其釀酒廠原來由1050年起已釀製啤酒,是世上歷史最悠久的修道院釀酒廠,我當然不忘品嘗該酒廠最有名的啤酒,也買了一罎5公升啤酒帶回研究所與同事分甘同味。後來跟同事討論,為甚麼修道院也會從事釀酒,有人便說,歷史上不少城市由教會統治,教會為了開拓財源和提供市民所需,都會經營這些業務。











Views of the Danube river that runs past Weltenburg
Weltenburg那一段多瑙河的景色















The monastery (left) and the church (right)
修道院(左)和教堂(右)




Inside the church
教堂內部










There were many more memorable sights in other countries outside Germany, and I’ll slowly start to fill you in.
除了德國,其他國家也有很多令人難忘的景緻,有空讓我再慢慢寫吧。

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Newborn, new experiences (1) 新生兒,新體會(1)

The birth of our daughter at the end of September marks a new chapter and brings about new life experiences for me and my wife. 小女9月底出生,為我和太太揭開人生新一章,也帶來新的體驗。 Mum was admitted to a nearby public hospital for the birth. The maternity ward is a lifely and buzzling place, subdivided into many rooms occupied by up to 4 mums and their babies at a time. Visiting hours is from 08:00 to 20:00, and up to one person can visit at one time and two different people each day. These limitations are part of the hospital's covid policies when the rest of the society has moved on as if nothing had happened - apparently there used to be no limit to visitations before covid, so a dad could in fact accompany the mum and baby all night long. One long-lasting impression from the maternity ward was the symphony of baby cries in which all babies took their turns to join including mine. Calming down the baby was almost impossible in this ambience and was very tough on mum especially when she was battling her

不求甚解,可以嗎?

端午節在尖沙咀海傍的無人機燈光表演,事後廣受網民嘲笑俗氣、像長輩圖等,屈原「現身」在空中飄更讓我覺得是其於死忌顯靈,很是詭異。 我在臉書轉發了ReNews的報導,想不到有人會點讚,而且是一個多年沒見的外國人,我納悶她究竟喜歡什麼、知否「到底發生什麼事」,只可猜想是她從沒見過用無人機砌出漢字,欣賞此藝術吧。 我在港大工作時,有國內同事有次跟我路過英皇書院時,對我說他對那學校沒好感,因為他討厭楊受成。我聽了先是心中有點驚訝,但沒流露出來,並笑着解釋道:英皇是英國國皇的意思,英文叫King's College,是政府辦學,跟楊受成的英皇集團一點關係也沒有!那同事沒意會背後的殖民史,更與搞娛樂事業的公司穿鑿附會,不過不應嘲笑,我反而覺得其不把自己困於校園、留意附近社區之精神可嘉(很多港人一向覺得國內人來港後往往不踏出自己人的小圈子呢)。 文藝創作和社會/社區的形成,固然與背後的歷史和文化息息相關,但評析時又是否完全不可抽離背景呢? 近年對香港流行曲的評論(尤其對當紅的鏡仔),時常着重「咬字」,例如姜濤最新的《DUMMY》就獲多人稱讚咬字清晰聽得明歌詞。歌手追求發音清晰,固然對歌唱是有好處,但如以發音不清就批評歌曲又會不會太輕易抺殺了整個作品?世界音樂如此多元,不懂外語是否就要封閉自己不接觸其他地區的音樂?而就算我們這些外國人聽得懂外語歌詞,我們大概也不夠資格評論歌手咬字是否清晰標準吧。正如閱讀文字作品,讀者又會不會因為不明白其中幾個字的意思而認為作品不值一讀?又如果對作品的評語只是「用字淺顯易明」,除非是兒童書,不然作者也會啼笑皆非或覺得膚淺吧? 不求甚解,原意是要領會大意而不必着眼於字眼之意思,到今天則演變成不深入理解。了解相關背景,明白作品的細節,固然定品評和鑑賞甚有裨益,但現實中大家受時間和個人知識所限,往往只能對背景資料簡單了解、略知一二,只可看到事物較表面之處。然而,不完全理解創作背後的原意,也不一定妨礙受眾對其之欣賞和評價;不完全理解一地的歷史,也不全然妨礙人們對當地建築、規劃等表達讚賞或提出疑問。聽歌不要執着要求歌手字正腔圓,歌詞大意聽一兩遍一般都可明瞭大概,就算不想深究歌詞,旋律節奏等也可以是欣賞音樂的切入點。不過話說回來,無人機燈光表演,如果主辦者用心思考主題和舖排,再在字體設計下功夫,同時彰顯漢字的內涵和美學,豈非更妙?

正字正確

廣州最近掀起保衛廣東話運動,早前星期日明報副刊一篇 文章 ,已對此作了精譬分析,我也不必插嘴了。 不過我想談談另一個相連的問題,相信久不久也會困擾好些港人,就是怎樣才算「正確」、「正統」的書面語。 我們自少便被老師耳提面命,廣東話絕不可用於寫作(雖然現在大行其道,我在網上留言甚至偶而寫電郵都會用廣東話),粵語和港式詞彙應以書面語(以普通話為標準的用語)取代,於是把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜,諸如此類,從小已習慣,我也沒異議。 但香港實在很多獨有的或跟國內有差別的詞彙,應用於主要給香港人看的場合當然沒問題,但國內或其他華人就可能覺得蹩腳甚至不一定明白。同樣國內的好些用詞,港人看到也會覺得有點不自然甚至礙眼。我寫網誌不時都會掙扎,究竟用國內的用詞好(我想一般來說應該是比較「正規」的,而且近幾年跟來自國內的人多了交往,或多或少都學到一點他們的用語),還是香港的說法好(始終不少讀者都是香港人,用上國內的詞語他們或許會覺得有點怪怪的),所以我盡可能兩者兼用,港式說法通常以括號並列,但我有時祇會用國內的用詞,也有時祇用香港的說法,可見我也往往拿不定主意。 問題是應該怎樣劃界線,區別「正確」和「不正確」的書面用語呢?我們應該遵從甚麼的「標準」?比方說在香港,學生寫了一句「我的志願是太空人」,公認是沒有問題的,老師一般也不會勉強學生寫「我的志願是航天員」,好了,這樣便是承認了香港和國內的用語確有區別,但既然如此,為甚麼把該句寫成「我嘅志願係太空人」時,老師便一定不會容許?又或者為甚麼寫作時硬要把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜?這道界線是誰定的,定立時又有甚麼理據?香港可不像很多國家般,有一個高高在上的法定語文機構(例如法國的Académie française),又或有權威性的詞典(例如英國的牛津字典,和國內的辭海),對語文作出一定規範,難免令人寫作時感到無所適從,甚麼香港和粵語詞彙可以用於書面、哪些不可。 用語的取向,也涉及文化取態的問題,我像一般港人一樣也認同寫作時要用書面語,盡量跟隨普通話的「標準」,但不會全盤用國內的詞彙和行文,一來不習慣,二來不免總有種維護本土文化的潛意識,特別是香港和國內社會制度上和文化上始終有點隔閡,這種矛盾不一定輕易化解。 究竟甚麼才算是「標準」、「正確」的書面中文,我想大概沒有「標準答案」,往往靠個人的見識和學養才可作出定奪,但隨著香港跟國內交往越來越