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A peek into the Basque Country 巴斯克自由行

While in Pamplona, it was just a short hop to another two well-known cities in the Basque country, namely San Sebastián (also called Donostia in Basque language) and Bilbao.

奔牛節前後,有時間走訪巴斯克地區另外兩個著名城市——聖塞巴斯堤安(San Sebastián,巴斯克語亦稱Donostia)及畢爾包(Bilbao)。


The Basque Country (in the broadest sense) is a region encompassing the north-eastern part of Spain, extending into the adjoining south-western corner of France. It boasts of a culture distinct from other parts of Spain and a militant organisation based in Basque called ETA has been seeking independence in a prolonged struggle with Spain. My three days in the Basque country was obviously not enough for me to appreciate completely the cultural dissimilarity between the Basque country and the rest of Spain, but the most conspicuous sign has got to be the language which is totally different from Spanish and unrelated to any other European languages. The Basque people also enjoy their own version of tapas called pintxos, but I wasn’t fortunate enough to find any dishes that were distinctively Basque.

舉辦奔牛節的潘普洛納亦屬巴斯克地區,位處西班牙東北角,延伸至與其接壤的法國西南邊境地區,文化與西班牙其他地方截然不同,當地的式裝巴斯克獨立解放組織多年來都爭取脫離西班牙獨立,究竟文化有何大差別,短短三日當然不能全然了解,不過最明顯的就是隨街可見而又陌生的巴斯克語,與西班牙語甚至其他歐洲語言全無淵源,飲食方面,西班牙最堂吃到的小吃tapas,在巴斯克語稱為pintxos,不過三日內都品嘗不到真正獨特而有別於西班牙其他地方的菜式。


Since I arrived very early in Pamplona on 5th July, I could catch the first bus to San Sebastián and spend a good part of the day there before checking in at a student residence in Pamplona which was my accommodation.

7月5日那天到達潘普洛納後,時間尚早,我趕緊乘第一班往長途車往聖塞巴斯堤安,好讓我能在那裡玩上大半天才到在潘普洛納入住的學生宿舍報到。


San Sebastián is a seaside city blessed with one of the top 10 beaches in Spain, called Bahía de la Concha (Seashell Bay). But the beach atmosphere was pretty much washed away by a persistent shower right from the beginning of my excursion! After arriving in San Sebastián, I walked along the Urumea river which would lead to the seaside at its estuary. Before reaching the beachfront, however, I decided to make a detour into the city centre, so that I can take shelter from the shower which became quite heavy at times.

聖塞巴斯堤安是海濱城市,而且有西班牙十大最佳海灘之一的貝殼灣(Bahía de la Concha),若是天公造美多好,但到達聖塞巴斯堤安外圍已是漫天煙雨,下車後便沿着Urumea河,冒着大時小的雨往海邊進發。河口正是海灘,不過我先想到市中心逛逛,兼想避雨。












River Urumea and Puente Maria Cristina (right) Urumea河及Maria Cristina橋(右)












The Parish Church of Buen Pastor (Parroquia del Buen Pastor), also a good place to take cover from the rain!
Buen Pastor教堂,正是避雨的好地方。














Left: Palacio de Justicia (Palace of Justice); right: the Church of San Bartolome
左:法院、右:聖伯多祿教堂


It wasn’t long before I reached the Bahía de la Concha. The whole bay was hiding behind the shroud of shower while the beach looked desolate.

從市中心走到貝殼灣海灘,在煙雨中,整個海灣都罩在一層白紗中,海灘更是空無一人。



Puente de la Zurriola (Zurriola Bridge) at the estuary of the Urumea
Urumea河口的Zurriola橋












Bahía de la Concha in the rain 雨中的貝殼灣



What the bay would have looked like on a bright sunny day
這張相片正好讓人想像晴空下的貝殼灣是怎樣的!









'Why am I stupidly waiting for customers that would never show up in the rain?'
有雨也不會去避的待應










The bay was guarded by two hills at both ends, and I was expecting a beautiful view of the whole bay from the top of the hills. I was pretty determined to reach the peak of Monte Igeldo to the west of the bay. I couldn’t care less about getting wet from the steadily intensifying shower or the mist that was completely hiding the peak from view. My determination turned out to be a synonym of sheer stupidity, as my jacket became soaked while there was absolutely to be seen from the peak apart from a blanket of white. Couldn’t I have worked that out before making all the way to the peak?

貝殼灣左、右兩端各有一座山鎮守,聽說從山頂俯瞰全灣的景色挺不錯,所以也不管離遠已見到西面的Igeldo山已被一層霧鎖住,也不管雨勢越來越大,一心都要往那座山進發。怎料上到山頂,得到的祇是失望和更濕的外套,眼前看到的祇有一片白色,真傻,從山腳看不到山頂,在山頂又怎能奢望看到山下的風光?












The funicular up Monte Igeldo 上Igeldo山的纜車




Casa del Terror (The House of Terror) amusement park at the peak of Monte Igeldo
Igeldo山頂的遊樂園——恐怖之屋










Bahía de la Concha, on the way downhill
下山時貝殼灣的景色








After a funicular ride downhill and a bus trip back in town, the rain has finally stopped in time for my expedition to Monte Urgull on the east side of the day. But by then I’m steadily running out of time until my bus back to Pamplona in 3 hours. I could only take the shortest way uphill and had to miss out on a good part of the nature and the batteries along the many other paths.

乘纜車下山後,坐公車回到市中心,那時雨終於停了,正好可以出發往貝殼灣東面的Urgull山,但已時屆中午,還有三個鐘頭便得返回潘普洛納,所以上山也祇好走捷徑,中途的鳥語花香和炮台算是與我無緣了。













The Town Hall and the view of Monte Urgull from there
市政廳(左)和Urgull山一景(右)



The establishment at the peak of Monte Urgull was originally a fortress (Castillo de la Mota), but is now turned into a museum on the local history of San Sebastián. A statue of Jesus stood on top of the museum and could already be seen from afar downhill. It was also the best vantage point for the whole city.

山頂從前是個堡壘,現則設有博物館,介紹聖塞巴斯堤安的歷史,博物館最高層的耶穌像,在山腳早已清晰可見。耶穌像也是俯瞰全城的最佳地點。












The original fortress at Castillo de la Mota
山頂的Mota堡壘












Crucification of the modern kind! 背負重任的耶穌!














Panoramic views of San Sebastián 俯瞰聖塞巴斯堤安


For the way downhill, I deliberately chose a path that led to the shore and the small fishing village lining the foot of the hill before entering the Old Town (Parta Vieja). With the time left, I could only manage a fast-food lunch made of seafood and a blitz through the Old Town before heading back for the bus terminus along the Urumea river.

走下山時,特意選一道直達山腳海濱的路,好讓我見識一下山腳的漁村,再從那裡進入舊城區,吃了頓海鮮快餐,便趕快找通往Urumea河的路徑,沿河返回長途車站,匆匆了結聖塞巴斯堤安之行。



The path downhill to the shore
下山往海濱的路徑








The English Cemetery
英軍墳場








Bahía de la Concha and the little Santa Clara Island in the middle of the bay
貝殼灣和灣中的Santa Clara小島



















The fishing village at the foot of Monte Urgull
Urgull山腳的漁村































Parta Vieja and the Plaza de la Constitución
舊城區及其憲法廣場


After visiting the San Fermín festival, there was only Bilbao left on my itinerary. Bilbao gained some fame in recent years, thanks in no small way to the opening of the Guggenheim Museum and the design of underground railway station exits by the British architect Norman Foster. I had to give Guggenheim a miss due to a lack of time, and those station exits were not anything special, but there were still enough things in Bilbao to keep me interested. The receptionist of the hotel doubled up as my trip advisor and helped me plan a trip through the highlights of the city. I was very grateful for his suggestions!

奔牛節後,我的西班牙之旅祇剩最後一站——畢爾包。今時今日的畢爾包,有賴美國古根漢藝術博物館(Guggenheim Museum)在那裡開館,和英國建築師Norman Foster設計的地鐵站出入口帶起名氣,這次沒空參觀古根漢博物館,地錢站也沒啥特色,不過畢爾包還有其他吸引人之處。酒店的接待員熱情地向我仔細介紹了好幾個景點,我也言從計行。



The area near my hotel - almost reminds me of Hong Kong!
酒店附近的風光竟跟香港有幾分像!










From the hotel, I first walked up to two small parks in the nearby hill, then descended and crossed the Ría de Bilbao into the Old Town (Casco Viejo). I passed by a market and a shopping street before coming across a set of steps. I decided to walk my way up it.

從酒店先走上附近山頭的兩個小公園逛逛,然後走下山,跨過畢爾包河(Ría de Bilbao),便踏入舊城區,經過菜市場及其中一條購物街後,不經不覺來到一道樓梯,便拾級而上看個究竟。



The market
市場
















Pretty ceiling art 天花藝術











Casco Viejo (Old Town) of Bilbao 畢爾包舊城區


At the top of the steps was a park (Parque de Etxebarria) where I could take in the views of the entire Bilbao along the paths. I felt I could finally take a breather from the hustle and bustle of Pamplona the day before, as there were so few people to be seen around the park.

樓梯頂原來是個公園(Parque de Etxebarria),沿着路徑便可飽覽全市景色,公園內人煙稀少,散步時很是舒服,正好讓我從熙攘的潘普洛納喘喘息。










The steps leading to Etxebarria Park 通往Etxebarria公園的樓梯










Bilbao by its river 河畔的畢爾包



The hotel receptionist recommended me to see the roof of the Guggenheim Museum from the bridge adjacent to it (Puente de la Salve). It would have been more straightforward if one part of the Parque de Etxebarria had not been closed off. The only way was to go downhill via the municipal police office, then take the nearby streets uphill again. Bilbao and its surrounds were indeed quite a hilly place, but the local government has done a good job in making everyone’s life easier, by installing plenty of escalators along many of the steeper streets.

酒店的接待員推介從古根漢博物館旁的橋上(Puente de la Salve)觀賞其屋頂,本來從Etxebarria可直接走到前往該橋的路,但那部分偏偏有工程進行而封了去路,唯有經過警察辦公室下山,然後取道毗鄰的街道再上山。說來畢爾包及鄰近的市郊山路也不少,當地政府也很照顧人民的需要,在山路廣設扶手電梯方便大眾上山,可算是一種德政。



The Municipal Police Office and the Town Hall (through the gaps between the red buildings of the police office)
警察辦公室和市政廳(在兩幢紅色樓宇中的空隙可見)








A typical street in Bilbao with escalators
畢爾包市內設有行人電梯的街道之一







It’s only too difficult to miss the Guggenheim Museum from its roof which formed some kind of a petal pattern. The modern Museum together with the artistic flair of the bridge have certainly given Bilbao a breath of fresh air. As I was worried about the possibility of spending too much time in the museum, I decided to skip the visit and go straight to my next destination.

來到古根漢博物館,其略呈花瓣型的屋頂就展現在眼前,簇新的博物館和帶有現代藝術氣息的橋,正標緻着畢爾包現代的一面。由於擔心時間不足,在博物館門外祇逗留了一會,便前往下一個重要景點。











Puente de la Salve and the Guggenheim Museum
古根漢博物館及旁邊的Puente de la Salve橋



Spider warning by the Guggenheim!
古根漢博物館發出蜘蛛警報!









Laugh as you may at the entrance!
入口前,人仰馬翻











The cat in front of the Guggenheim
古根漢博物館前的「花貓」











Plaza Moyúa, before I took the metro
乘地鐵前經過Moyúa廣場






I took the Bilbao Metro to the suburb of Getxo, which was home to the famous Puente Colgante de Bizkaia (Suspension Bridge of Biscay). This bridge is now listed as world heritage and spans across the Nervión river and its estuary. One of my Spanish colleagues explained to me that the bridge was designed to deal with several pragmatic needs at the same time. It had to facilitate the pedestrian and vehicular traffic across the Nervion without obstructing the flow of cargo shipments in and out of the port at the estuary. With limited space on either river bank and the technology available at that time, the solution was to build a bridge with a high crossbeam and suspend from the crossbeam a gondola that would shuttle between the river banks.

乘地鐵到達位於市郊Getxo區的比斯開懸吊橋(Puente Colgante de Bizkaia)。吊橋是世界文化遺產,橫跨內爾維翁河(Nervión)與大海相連的河口,聽西班牙同事講解,這座橋既要方便河兩岸的人來往,又要讓貨船進出港口無阻,附近空地又少,衡量過當時的技術,於是便架了這座橋身高五十餘米的吊橋,橋樑又吊着一條人車兩用的吊艙,穿梭兩岸。












The bridge and the walkway in the crossbeam
懸吊橋和橫樑上的行人通道













The gondola (left) and how its traverse across the Nervion was controlled in the former times (right)
運輸人車的吊艙(左)和當年控制吊艙運作的方法(右)




Technical information for the engineering buffs
(It also tells you how to destroy the bridge!)
懸吊橋的技術數據(亦有說明如何能摧毀此橋!)








This bridge is anchored in the middle of the residences.
懸吊橋的鋼纜,以民居作支撐










There was a walkway on the crossbeam which could be reached by a lift. The walkway is the place to marvel at the ingenuity of the design and to enjoy a panorama of the surrounding suburbs of Getxo and Portugalete.

乘升降機到橋樑上的通道,除能體會到工程的浩大外,也能俯瞰位於河岸兩邊的Getxo區和Portugalete區。










Getxo/Las Arenas and the port
Getxo區及河口的港口









Portugalete on the opposite bank
河對岸的Portugalete



After descending from the bridge, I first had a quick walk along the Nervion on the Getxo side, all the way up to the end of the jetty there. Then I headed back to the bridge and rode the gondola to Portugalete on the other side of the Nervion and strolled through the suburb before returning to Bilbao by the metro. There were still a few places in the Old Town that remained to be discovered.

下橋後先到Getxo那邊的河畔,沿河走到堤壩盡頭,然後折返吊橋,乘吊艙往彼岸的Portugalete,在那裡閒逛後坐地鐵返回畢爾包市區,逛逛舊城區還沒有到過的地方。












Views of Getxo from the jetty
從Getxo的堤壩回望Getxo






















Views of Portugalete Portugalete數景
Top left: Basílica de Santa María 左上:聖瑪利亞大教堂
Top right: town hall of Portugalete 右上:Portugalete市政廳
Bottom left: one of the many hilly streets further uphill 左下:Portugalete眾多斜路之一
Bottom right: Centro Cultural de la Villa 右下:文化中心



Puente del Arenal leading to Casco Viejo (Old Town)
進入舊城區的Puente del Arenal橋

















Arriaga Municipal Theatre (top left), Iglesia San Nicolás (St. Nicholas' Church, top right) and Plaza Nueva (left)
Arriaga市立劇院(左上)、聖尼格老教堂(右上)及Nueva廣場(左)






I was deciding if I really wanted/needed a dinner, but the parades of eating places and the smell of food were only too tempting. I ended up in a cerveceria (the Spanish version of pubs and bars) and treated myself to a dish of hot potato croquettes stuffed with salted cod (Croquetas con Bacalao). The feeling of warm and filling food was indeed very satisfying, a perfect way to end my day in Bilbao and my second Spanish adventure.

本想連晚飯也省,但走在舊城區,館子處處,飢腸轆轆,都是決定走進一家Cerveceria(西班牙式酒吧),吃了一客熱騰騰的釀了鹽漬鱈魚的炸薯球,正好是整天和整個西班牙行程的圓滿結束。


My second visit to Spain was most memorable for the different culture and atmosphere that I could experience as I went from one part of the country to another. You can appreciate better what I mean when I write about Barcelona!

這次遊西班牙,最深切的體會就是該國不同地區的獨特文化和風情,日後寫巴塞羅那的見聞時再細說吧。

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端午節在尖沙咀海傍的無人機燈光表演,事後廣受網民嘲笑俗氣、像長輩圖等,屈原「現身」在空中飄更讓我覺得是其於死忌顯靈,很是詭異。 我在臉書轉發了ReNews的報導,想不到有人會點讚,而且是一個多年沒見的外國人,我納悶她究竟喜歡什麼、知否「到底發生什麼事」,只可猜想是她從沒見過用無人機砌出漢字,欣賞此藝術吧。 我在港大工作時,有國內同事有次跟我路過英皇書院時,對我說他對那學校沒好感,因為他討厭楊受成。我聽了先是心中有點驚訝,但沒流露出來,並笑着解釋道:英皇是英國國皇的意思,英文叫King's College,是政府辦學,跟楊受成的英皇集團一點關係也沒有!那同事沒意會背後的殖民史,更與搞娛樂事業的公司穿鑿附會,不過不應嘲笑,我反而覺得其不把自己困於校園、留意附近社區之精神可嘉(很多港人一向覺得國內人來港後往往不踏出自己人的小圈子呢)。 文藝創作和社會/社區的形成,固然與背後的歷史和文化息息相關,但評析時又是否完全不可抽離背景呢? 近年對香港流行曲的評論(尤其對當紅的鏡仔),時常着重「咬字」,例如姜濤最新的《DUMMY》就獲多人稱讚咬字清晰聽得明歌詞。歌手追求發音清晰,固然對歌唱是有好處,但如以發音不清就批評歌曲又會不會太輕易抺殺了整個作品?世界音樂如此多元,不懂外語是否就要封閉自己不接觸其他地區的音樂?而就算我們這些外國人聽得懂外語歌詞,我們大概也不夠資格評論歌手咬字是否清晰標準吧。正如閱讀文字作品,讀者又會不會因為不明白其中幾個字的意思而認為作品不值一讀?又如果對作品的評語只是「用字淺顯易明」,除非是兒童書,不然作者也會啼笑皆非或覺得膚淺吧? 不求甚解,原意是要領會大意而不必着眼於字眼之意思,到今天則演變成不深入理解。了解相關背景,明白作品的細節,固然定品評和鑑賞甚有裨益,但現實中大家受時間和個人知識所限,往往只能對背景資料簡單了解、略知一二,只可看到事物較表面之處。然而,不完全理解創作背後的原意,也不一定妨礙受眾對其之欣賞和評價;不完全理解一地的歷史,也不全然妨礙人們對當地建築、規劃等表達讚賞或提出疑問。聽歌不要執着要求歌手字正腔圓,歌詞大意聽一兩遍一般都可明瞭大概,就算不想深究歌詞,旋律節奏等也可以是欣賞音樂的切入點。不過話說回來,無人機燈光表演,如果主辦者用心思考主題和舖排,再在字體設計下功夫,同時彰顯漢字的內涵和美學,豈非更妙?

正字正確

廣州最近掀起保衛廣東話運動,早前星期日明報副刊一篇 文章 ,已對此作了精譬分析,我也不必插嘴了。 不過我想談談另一個相連的問題,相信久不久也會困擾好些港人,就是怎樣才算「正確」、「正統」的書面語。 我們自少便被老師耳提面命,廣東話絕不可用於寫作(雖然現在大行其道,我在網上留言甚至偶而寫電郵都會用廣東話),粵語和港式詞彙應以書面語(以普通話為標準的用語)取代,於是把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜,諸如此類,從小已習慣,我也沒異議。 但香港實在很多獨有的或跟國內有差別的詞彙,應用於主要給香港人看的場合當然沒問題,但國內或其他華人就可能覺得蹩腳甚至不一定明白。同樣國內的好些用詞,港人看到也會覺得有點不自然甚至礙眼。我寫網誌不時都會掙扎,究竟用國內的用詞好(我想一般來說應該是比較「正規」的,而且近幾年跟來自國內的人多了交往,或多或少都學到一點他們的用語),還是香港的說法好(始終不少讀者都是香港人,用上國內的詞語他們或許會覺得有點怪怪的),所以我盡可能兩者兼用,港式說法通常以括號並列,但我有時祇會用國內的用詞,也有時祇用香港的說法,可見我也往往拿不定主意。 問題是應該怎樣劃界線,區別「正確」和「不正確」的書面用語呢?我們應該遵從甚麼的「標準」?比方說在香港,學生寫了一句「我的志願是太空人」,公認是沒有問題的,老師一般也不會勉強學生寫「我的志願是航天員」,好了,這樣便是承認了香港和國內的用語確有區別,但既然如此,為甚麼把該句寫成「我嘅志願係太空人」時,老師便一定不會容許?又或者為甚麼寫作時硬要把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜?這道界線是誰定的,定立時又有甚麼理據?香港可不像很多國家般,有一個高高在上的法定語文機構(例如法國的Académie française),又或有權威性的詞典(例如英國的牛津字典,和國內的辭海),對語文作出一定規範,難免令人寫作時感到無所適從,甚麼香港和粵語詞彙可以用於書面、哪些不可。 用語的取向,也涉及文化取態的問題,我像一般港人一樣也認同寫作時要用書面語,盡量跟隨普通話的「標準」,但不會全盤用國內的詞彙和行文,一來不習慣,二來不免總有種維護本土文化的潛意識,特別是香港和國內社會制度上和文化上始終有點隔閡,這種矛盾不一定輕易化解。 究竟甚麼才算是「標準」、「正確」的書面中文,我想大概沒有「標準答案」,往往靠個人的見識和學養才可作出定奪,但隨著香港跟國內交往越來越