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Weekend escape (2) - Windy Marseille 週末出走記(2)——風浪中的馬賽

I haven’t actually been to France so many times, so during my short stay in Munich I took the opportunity to go to Marseilles (Marseille in French, 22nd to 24th June) to visit a former colleague and good friend who has now moved there, and to get a feel for what southern France is like.
法國我沒到過多少次,這次在慕尼黑小住,趁有舊同事兼朋友遷到馬賽工作,便抽空探望她(6月22至24日),順道感受一下法國南部的風情。

Marseille was memorable for a few reasons. Apart from the variety of sea views and cuisine, what stuck in my mind the most was the relentlessly strong winds, especially at the seaside, on the sea or up on the hills!
馬賽最令我印象深刻的,除了是多姿多采的海景和飲食外,就是颳了三天的強風,在海邊、海上和山頭特別感受到!

On my first day in Marseille my friend took me on a walk along the Corniche Kennedy along the shore to the beach district. The road meandered its way through many bays and was built on a stretch of cliffs which was continually battered by the waves. Many people were enjoying themselves in all sorts of ways along the road as well as in the beach district, from idle sunbathing to the challenging kite surfing. The beach was decorated with many of those colourful kites, and my friend and I were constantly captivated by surfers flying a few metres into the air with the wind. However, that was certainly not something for the faint-hearted or for beginners!
第一天下午朋友帶我到濱海大道Corniche Kennedy,前往海灘區,馬路繞過一個又一個小灣,建在連綿的白懸崖上,不斷受波濤拍打。沿途的海灘跟海灘區,都擠滿了享樂的人,各適其式,由最容易的趟在沙上曬太陽,到挑戰體能的風箏滑浪也有,但見五顏六色的風箏飄揚,滑浪者不時隨風一躍而起,很是刺激,看得我和朋友都出了神,不過觀乎當日的風浪之大,玩的人非能手莫屬。



A war memorial
戰爭紀念碑






























A small neighbourhood behind the bridge near the war memorial
紀念碑附近橋後的小區

























The rocks and beaches along the Corniche
Corniche沿路的岩石和海灘

















Paradise for proficient kite surfers
風箏滑浪的勝地





At the end of the beach district there was a ferry back to the city centre, and we thought that we could have a rest on board, but how wrong we were. Our ferry was constantly tossed by rough waves, which would lift the vessel by half a metre pretty easy then let it drop in a second. The captain, however, didn't think much of it and kept sailing at high speed as normal. For 3 euros we enjoyed half an hour of speed boating in challenging conditions, which would normally cost a lot more. Whether it is value for money would depend on your tolerance to travelling on rough seas!
在海灘區盡頭坐渡輪回市中心,本以為可以休息一下,怎知那時輸到我們真正感受風浪了,洶湧的波濤輕易把船拋起半米多,然後讓他墜下,而且船長好像不把其當作甚麼一回事,一味兒高速航行,於是我們每人花了祇是3歐元,便「有幸」玩到激流,那究竟是物超所值還是「貼錢買難受」,則視乎每人對能對風浪承受多少了。




Walking on water - could have been a scene from computer games!
水上飄——乍看下有點像電玩的畫面!






























Mirror, mirror by the pier
碼頭旁的鏡帳篷






On the second day my friend and a colleague of hers took me to a sea inlet near Marseille (Calanque de Sugiton). We went on a hike to a beach at the foot of the cliffs for a swim and some sunbathing. The shores of Marseille and its nearby region are famous for the series of inlets (calanques) which are lined by limestone cliffs or capes. The cliff faces looked particularly white under the blue skies, aqua seas and reflexion of sunlight. We reached the beach in mid-afternoon when it was the warmest part of the day, and were excited by the clear waters as well as the cheering and shouting around the beach. Little did we expect that the water was so numbingly cold and rather uncomfortable to swim in! We did however manage to stay at the beach for about an hour before climbing back up again, and we walked all the way to the nearest highest point for viewing the scenery. The magnificent shoreline and the boundless sea were for anyone to enjoy, but only if they could brave the keen breezes on these exposed hills. Such strong winds together with the waves were quite responsible for the formation and maintenance of the inlets and cliffs as a result of constant erosion.
第二天朋友和她的同事一同帶我往鄰近馬賽的Sugiton峽灣(Calanque de Sugiton),遠足之餘也可到懸崖底的海灘游游泳、曬曬太陽。馬賽及鄰近地區有一連串峽灣,中間隔著拔地而起的海角或懸崖,由於主要是鐘乳石形成,所以呈一片白色,在太陽的照射和碧海藍天的襯托下格外鮮明。我們到達時是下午的中段,趁是全日最暖的時候,趕快下崖到海灘,本來看到碧綠見底的海水和聽到海灘的喧鬧聲,叫我們都雀躍,不過下水時才發現,水竟然是冰冷得令人麻痹,游泳可不好受!但我們也在海灘逗留了一小時左右,才再次上山,並一直走到附近的最高點,觀賞壯觀的海岸線和浩翰的海洋,但同時要再次領教馬賽的強風,我想,這些峽灣的形成,或多或少是拜風和海侵蝕所賜吧。



Half-way down to the beach
下山往海灘中途





























Surviving in a treacherous habitat  在險峻的環境中求存























A secluded beach is a just reward for the hike!
走這麼多山路,就是為了這個有點與世隔絕的海灘!










Commanding a full view of Sugiton and Morigou (the inlet to the right of the photo)
俯視Sugiton及Morigou(圖中右方)的峽灣


I had wanted to start my third day with an excursion to the fortress on Île d’If (the Island of If), but the island was closed due to strong winds. Then I decided to take the ferry to the other islands of the Frioul Archipelago. The winds and waves were more relentless than the first day; not only was the ferry ride choppier than the first day, but I also saw strings of white horses rolling over the surface of the sea. I actually felt a little scared during the ferry ride! After the ferry berthed at the island of Ratonneau, I headed straight to one of the hills with ruins of a former fortress. Ratonneau and the adjoining Pomègues (joined together by a sea dyke) have a series of small hills which offer plenty of panoramic views of Marseille and surrounds, especially en route to the fortress (Fort de Ratonneau) where Île d’If and the city centre of Marseille is in plain view. However, the wind gusts were so punishing that all I wanted to do was to snap the photos as quickly as possible then continue my way. It spoiled completely my mood for enjoying the scenery leisurely, and since I wanted to visit another place in the afternoon before flying off, I left Ratonneau for the ferry back after only one hour and a bit. What a pity that I couldn’t spend more time!
第三天早上本想坐船往市內If島(Île d’If)參觀島上的堡壘,但該島因風太大而關閉,所以改往Frioul群島的其他島嶼。那天的風浪比第一天還要厲害,不祇是渡輪航行時更顛簸,還看到海上連綿不斷的白頭浪,說實話我真的有點害怕!到了Ratonneau島後,便直往其中一個山頭探究,本來該島和相連的Pomègues島(以海堤連接)有不少小丘,是觀景的上佳地點,而我登的山頭有個荒廢了的雕堡(Fort de Ratonneau),還可眺望If島和市區,但凜冽的狂風,令我祇想趕快拍完照後繼續上路,無心情駐足細賞景色,而且下午還想到市內另一個地方參觀,所以在島上逗留才個多小時便匆匆離開了,有點可惜。

















Rugged rocks on the island of Ratonneau
Ratonneau島上嶙峋的岩石











The island of If against the backdrop of Marseille city
If島和背後的馬賽市區











A panoramic view of Plage de St Estève, the cape with the ruins of Ancien Hôpital Caroline and Île d'If with Marseille city farther afield
俯視St Estève海灣、海角上的Caroline舊醫院遺址、If島和離遠的馬賽




The islands of Pomègues (to the left of the photo) and Ratonneau (to the right) joined together by the dyke Digue Berry
圖中左方的Pomègues島和右方的Ratonneau島(右)由Digue Berry海堤相連

















The ruins of Fort de Ratonneau
Ratonneau堡壘的遺跡











In the afternoon I climbed a hill to visit the church of Notre-Dame de la Garde. By the time the wind was determined to topple everyone and everything standing in its way. As soon as I made a start taking panoramic shots, the wind threatened to blow me and my camera away. I quickly ducked for cover by the fence, and just when I thought the wind had subsided and stood up to take photos again, more wind followed and almost blew me down. Eventually I decided just to kneel by the fence, poke my head and camera above the fence, make the shots in the shortest time possible before running inside the church for cover. I felt like a journalist attempting a live broadcast during a storm!
下午登上市內建在小山上的聖母守護教堂(Notre-Dame de la Garde)時,風勢更是不饒人,我正要拍照時,一般有颱風威力的陣風迎面吹來,我得馬上蹲下躲在圍欄下,待我以為風勢稍緩時再站起來,又被另一陣風嚇怕,最後為了拍一個全景照,我祇好蹲在圍欄,祇把頭和相機伸高,快速拍幾張照後便直奔教堂內躲避,令我有種在風暴中做攝影記者的感覺!




The sight of Notre-Dame de la Garde is hard to miss in Marseille!
聖母守護教堂在馬賽隨處可見











The last few steps to the church
快到教堂的最後一段台階












A view worth braving the wind for!
與狂風博鬥也再值得拍下來的風景


The most interesting aspect of the church was the dangling of yachts and other vessels from the ceiling. I thought that one important purpose of the church was to afford a peace of mind to those seafarers who had to brave the sea. The seafarers probably needed such blessing given the often unfavourable sailing conditions on Marseille’s seas! 
教堂內最有意思的,是從天花吊了一串串不同船隻款式的模型,心想該教堂的一大功能,是要保祐出海的人,大概就像我們的天后廟、媽閣廟之類吧,馬賽和附近一帶風勢那麼強烈,出海總有三分險,船員祈求上天關照一下實在正常不過。


 

















The interiors of the church  教堂內部

The intimate relationship of Marseille with the sea is also evident in the fortresses, towers and museums about the Vieux Port (Old Port) district, but I didn’t have time to pay a visit this time.
馬賽和海密不可分的關係,除了在聖母教堂外,在舊港(Vieux Port)的堡壘、塔和博物館都找到痕跡,可是這次沒有時間參觀了。




The Vieux Port is full of yachts!
舊港內泊滿了船







Different views of Notre-Dame de la Garde and Fort Ganteaume on the opposite side of the port
舊港對岸的聖母守護教堂和Ganteaume堡壘的不同景觀







Musée des civilisations de l'Europe et de la Méditerranée (Museum of European and Mediterranean civilizations, MuCEM), including Fort St-Jean
歐洲及地中海文化博物館,包括聖約翰堡壘





Vieux Port with MuCEM and Palais du Pharo
舊港的博物館及法羅宮







Villa Méditerranée next to MuCEM
博物館旁的Villa Méditerranée中心











Cathédrale La Major
馬賽主教座堂












Vieux Port in the early evening
日落後不久的舊港












And for foodies, proximity to the sea means plenty of fresh and inexpensive sea food in Marseille. Even a three-course sea food dinner in the tourist district only cost 15 euros. Many Marseille residents are of African origin. In the city centre there is an African Market (at Noailles) with many North African fast food places and a shop selling all sorts of spices, dried fruits, nuts and other groceries. My friend said that the décor of the shop reminded her of what she saw in Morocco. On the first night my friend took me to the music festival in town (music festivals are held on summer solstice in many cities in France). The streets were lined with stalls selling home-made cooking. African cuisine was well represented there, and my friend and I tried the Yassa chicken with rice, a typical dish from Senegal. The chicken was well marinated and stewed with a rich onion flavour, which was appetising and actually suitable to Chinese taste too!
另外因為馬賽臨海,海鮮種類多而新鮮也不貴,就算在遊客區吃一頓有三道菜的海鮮餐也祇消15歐元。馬賽非洲人可不少,市內有個北非市集,有好幾家賣北非小食的小店,也有一家賣香料、乾果等的雜貨店,朋友便說裡面的佈置便跟她在摩洛哥看到的差不多。第一天晚上朋友帶我到市內的音樂節時(全法國不同地方在夏至當日會舉行音樂節),街道擺滿了自家製作的食品,當中不乏非洲菜,我和朋友便品嘗了一道塞內加爾Yassa雞配飯,雞燉得又嫩又富洋蔥味,很合中國人口味。






















Pottery, honey and spices in the North African grocery shop
北非雜貨店的瓷器皿、蜂蜜和香料





























Performers and audiences at the Music Festival
音樂節的表演者和觀眾

























Street food galore at the Music Festival (including the Yassa chicken in the left photo)
音樂節街頭食物不絕(包括左圖的Yassa雞)






The most representative Marseille dish - Bouillabaisse seafood soup
馬賽招牌菜——Bouillabaisse海鮮湯









I managed to spot quite a number of Hong Kong tourists around the streets of Marseille. I guess most of them in fact came for the lavender in the surrounding Provence region. My friend said that Marseille is the least expensive and most down-to-earth in the French Mediterranean region, unlike the many surrounding cities which tend to attract a higher-class clientele. While Marseille is a good starting point for travelling in the nearby regions, its cultural and natural landscapes are definitely not to be missed.
在馬賽街頭碰到頗多香港遊客,我想不少是因普羅旺斯的薰衣草慕名而路過,而我的朋友說,相比法國地中海其他地方,馬賽是最廉宜而且最平民化的,沒有附近高檔旅遊城市的架子,所以如欲感受法國地中海風情或到鄰近地區旅遊,馬賽的人文和自然風景都不容錯過。

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The birth of our daughter at the end of September marks a new chapter and brings about new life experiences for me and my wife. 小女9月底出生,為我和太太揭開人生新一章,也帶來新的體驗。 Mum was admitted to a nearby public hospital for the birth. The maternity ward is a lifely and buzzling place, subdivided into many rooms occupied by up to 4 mums and their babies at a time. Visiting hours is from 08:00 to 20:00, and up to one person can visit at one time and two different people each day. These limitations are part of the hospital's covid policies when the rest of the society has moved on as if nothing had happened - apparently there used to be no limit to visitations before covid, so a dad could in fact accompany the mum and baby all night long. One long-lasting impression from the maternity ward was the symphony of baby cries in which all babies took their turns to join including mine. Calming down the baby was almost impossible in this ambience and was very tough on mum especially when she was battling her

不求甚解,可以嗎?

端午節在尖沙咀海傍的無人機燈光表演,事後廣受網民嘲笑俗氣、像長輩圖等,屈原「現身」在空中飄更讓我覺得是其於死忌顯靈,很是詭異。 我在臉書轉發了ReNews的報導,想不到有人會點讚,而且是一個多年沒見的外國人,我納悶她究竟喜歡什麼、知否「到底發生什麼事」,只可猜想是她從沒見過用無人機砌出漢字,欣賞此藝術吧。 我在港大工作時,有國內同事有次跟我路過英皇書院時,對我說他對那學校沒好感,因為他討厭楊受成。我聽了先是心中有點驚訝,但沒流露出來,並笑着解釋道:英皇是英國國皇的意思,英文叫King's College,是政府辦學,跟楊受成的英皇集團一點關係也沒有!那同事沒意會背後的殖民史,更與搞娛樂事業的公司穿鑿附會,不過不應嘲笑,我反而覺得其不把自己困於校園、留意附近社區之精神可嘉(很多港人一向覺得國內人來港後往往不踏出自己人的小圈子呢)。 文藝創作和社會/社區的形成,固然與背後的歷史和文化息息相關,但評析時又是否完全不可抽離背景呢? 近年對香港流行曲的評論(尤其對當紅的鏡仔),時常着重「咬字」,例如姜濤最新的《DUMMY》就獲多人稱讚咬字清晰聽得明歌詞。歌手追求發音清晰,固然對歌唱是有好處,但如以發音不清就批評歌曲又會不會太輕易抺殺了整個作品?世界音樂如此多元,不懂外語是否就要封閉自己不接觸其他地區的音樂?而就算我們這些外國人聽得懂外語歌詞,我們大概也不夠資格評論歌手咬字是否清晰標準吧。正如閱讀文字作品,讀者又會不會因為不明白其中幾個字的意思而認為作品不值一讀?又如果對作品的評語只是「用字淺顯易明」,除非是兒童書,不然作者也會啼笑皆非或覺得膚淺吧? 不求甚解,原意是要領會大意而不必着眼於字眼之意思,到今天則演變成不深入理解。了解相關背景,明白作品的細節,固然定品評和鑑賞甚有裨益,但現實中大家受時間和個人知識所限,往往只能對背景資料簡單了解、略知一二,只可看到事物較表面之處。然而,不完全理解創作背後的原意,也不一定妨礙受眾對其之欣賞和評價;不完全理解一地的歷史,也不全然妨礙人們對當地建築、規劃等表達讚賞或提出疑問。聽歌不要執着要求歌手字正腔圓,歌詞大意聽一兩遍一般都可明瞭大概,就算不想深究歌詞,旋律節奏等也可以是欣賞音樂的切入點。不過話說回來,無人機燈光表演,如果主辦者用心思考主題和舖排,再在字體設計下功夫,同時彰顯漢字的內涵和美學,豈非更妙?