Skip to main content

From autumn to winter in 2 weeks 秋至冬的大變身

In mid-October I went to Munich for 2 weeks to attend a conference and do some laboratory work. The weather put on a good show in this short period of time, as gorgeous autumn sceneries suddenly gave way to an early and abrupt arrival of a snow-covered landscape!
十月中到慕尼黑開會議和做實驗兩星期,在短短的時間內感受到秋天最美的一面和突如其來、提早來臨的冬天!

As I was on board the train from Frankfurt Airport to Munich upon arrival on 15th October, I already noticed that this autumn has started later than usual as the forests en route were still displaying a mix of green, amber and yellow and very few trees had all the leaves shed. And upon arrival in Munich, I was delighted to see the neighbourhood near my research institute and the streets in the city were all in lively autumn colours. Under the blue skies and mild autumn sunshine, the red and golden leaves looked especially brilliant and gave the world an extra warm and cosy feeling.
我10月15日在法蘭克福下飛機,再轉乘火車往慕尼黑,沿途樹林橙色、黃色如綠色斑駁,仍未有廣泛落葉的跡象,心想這個秋天可能比平時遲來吧。到了慕尼黑,不論在研究所周圍,或是會議場地附近,甚至市內的大街小巷,都不難發掘出一幅幅迷人的景緻,尤其是天晴時,在柔和的秋日照耀下,樹葉的金黃色和嫣紅色份外鮮明,也令人有份額外的溫暖感覺。




The last of this autumn's sunflowers
時日無多











Klinikum Grosshadern
Grosshadern醫院


























The red ivy leaves and the trumpet fountain outside the conference venue Gasteig
會議場地Gasteig外的紅滕葉和喇叭噴泉





















A sea of golden colour in the research institute
研究所一片金黃色























Rustic charm in Schwabing, Munich
慕尼黑Schwabing區繽紛的滕樹外牆




















My first week in Munich was met with sunny weather everyday with a maximum temperature of up to 20 degrees. It would be such a pity to let such beautiful days go to waste, and indeed my good friend in Munich and I decided to make the best use of it with a day trip to Mittenwald (south of Munich) and the Leutaschklamm gorge nearby. Leutaschklamm is located on the border between Germany and Austria and flanked by forests on both sides, but there are very few vantage points for the gorge. Thanks to funding by the European Union, a network of metal walkways is now built halfway up the cliff faces of the gorge to connect the forests together and allow the visitors to enjoy the sceneries of the gorge close up (but don’t look beneath your feet to the bottom of the gorge if you’re afraid of heights!) With its gentle terrain and many educational displays along the tracks, the gorge has attracted many families bringing young children for an easy walk. It was indeed memorable to be able to walk in mid-air directly above the bottom of the gorge, and the autumn colours have added some rustic charm to the countryside scenery.
在慕尼黑的第一週,每天天公造美,而且日間最暖時有20度,這些美好的時光真不容白白讓其溜走,我和一個慕尼黑好友便相約在10月21日那天到慕尼黑以南的Mittenwald和附近的Leutaschklamm峽谷遠足。Leutaschklamm位德國和奧地利邊界,峽谷兩側是一片叢林,地勢並不太險要,但沒甚麼地點可以望到峽谷,多得歐盟撥款沿著懸崖山腰搭建了一系列鐵橋,既連接了兩國,又令遊人可以更近距離從半空欣賞峽谷的景色(不過畏高者別從腳底下望谷底的急流了!)而且沿途設置了吸引小童的玩意和說明,所以很多人一家大小一同前往郊遊。從峽谷的半空欣賞秋色,不啻是難得的經歷,而四周的風景在秋色襯托下,增添了不少色彩。

















The countryside en route to Mittenwald
前往Mittenwald途中的郊野






























The houses in Mittenwald  Mittenwald鎮內的房屋





















Leutaschklamm and its mid-air walkways
Leutaschklamm峽谷和半空的鐵橋






























Mountains with autumnal flair
秋山














Teufelsgumpen (Devil's Bend), possibly the most treacherous part of Leutaschklamm
Leutaschklamm其中最險要之處——魔鬼灣




















Looking down is not for the faint-hearted!
峽谷谷底就在腳下!


















Embracing for a borderless Europe
德國、奧地利和睦一家親

















The gorge itself was not so big and we have seen most of it after 3 hours. With half an afternoon to spare, my friend and I decided to go for a walk along the Isar river to the nearby Austrian town of Scharnitz. It felt like a walk in the park as there was no border control while the geology and vegetation along the track were pretty similar to the woods near the research institute in Munich. We actually couldn’t even tell where the border was exactly! Once in Scharnitz, we hiked up to the ruins of the former Porta Claudia fortress, but we were left slightly disappointed because there wasn’t much nice scenery to be seen within the fortress area and afar.
不過峽谷範圍不大,不消三小時左右都看得七七八八,為了消磨時間,我和好友便從峽谷出來,沿著Isar河走到毗鄰的奧地利小鎮Scharnitz看個究竟。沿河的路徑土質和植被其實和慕尼黑研究所附近的樹林差不多,再加上沒有邊檢,這個跨境行跟逛公園一樣輕鬆,甚至邊界在哪裡我們也說不情呢!到了Scharnitz,我們特意上山到Porta Claudia城堡廢墟一遊,不過山上風景四周淩亂,遠方的景色亦非突出,覺得有點浪費了腳骨力!















River Isar and the Karwendelgebirge (Karwendel Alpine Ranges)
Isar河和Karwendel阿爾卑斯山脈




Scharnitz











Remnants of Porta Claudia
Porta Claudia廢墟


























The weather gradually turned colder in the second week in Munich, culminating in a snowfall at the weekend (27th to 28th October). Although a brief snowfall is generally a common sight in Munich at the end of October, the one that weekend was most unusual on several accounts. It snowed continuously for 24 hours until Sunday lunch time then further for 7 to 8 hours after a 2-hour pause. By the end there were 15 cm of snow built up on the grass while the leaves have received a decent coating of snow. Normally snow would only come when most of the leaves have dropped off leaving behind a few brown and dull yellow ones. But when it snowed even longer than in normal winter while the autumn leaves were still on the trees, it produced a rather unusual palette of colours on the trees with a dusting of white on the red, amber and green leaves. I felt really excited by such views and braved the cold on the Sunday morning to look for good photo shots near the research institute!
之後在慕尼黑的第二週,天氣逐漸轉涼,周未(10月27至28日)還下起雪來,本來慕尼黑在十月底下小雪是極正常的事,但這場雪一下便下了24小時,星期日中午歇了兩小時後再下7、8個小時,草地積起了15厘米的雪,而樹葉面也鋪了一層白色。這場雪最不尋常的是,平常要待秋葉落得七七八八、祇剩一些枯黃和啡色葉片時才會迎來入冬的第一場雪,但這次仍是滿樹鮮紅和金黃的時候,便下了一場比一般冬雪還要久的雪,雪的白色和樹葉的紅、黃、綠色夾雜,情景難得一見,令我大喜過望,所以星期日早上有空閒,忍冷也得到研究所附近踏雪尋「景」拍攝!




After 5 hours of snow
下雪5小時後





























The winter wonderland near the research institute
研密所附近白雪皚皚






























Enjoying a rare combination of colourful autumn leaves and snow
秋葉和冬雪的絕配

















Plains in plain white
白茫茫的原野











I was not the only one braving the snow ...
忍冷的不祇我一人


















It was a magical feeling seeing the snow, as I was shopping for Christmas decorations when the snow first started and the snow began to build up on the way home. It felt as if Christmas has arrived early! I normally wouldn’t venture far when it snows, but on Saturday and Sunday nights I went into the city respectively to have dinner with my good friend in Munich and take my Dutch buddy on a tour around town (while he and his girlfriend were visiting) and uncovered more beautiful snow sceneries at night. It was indeed memorable to witness this extraordinary snowfall!
那個週末剛下雪時,我正好在選購聖誕裝飾,回家時但見開始積雪,一種聖誕感覺由然而生,很是奇妙。平常下雪時我甚少外出,但那兩晚,星期六晚好友約我吃飯,星期日晚帶荷蘭好友觀賞雪景(他和女友來慕尼黑度假數天),見到從前沒留意的景色。這場雪來得急、下得久,和種種雪景,都令我印象深刻。




A light show of snow
燈光照射著的下雪




































The statues in front of the Bayerisches Nationaltheater (Bavarian National Theatre, left) and Alte Pinakothek
巴伐利亞州國家劇院外(左)和古代藝術館外(右)的人像


Comments

Popular posts from this blog

不求甚解,可以嗎?

端午節在尖沙咀海傍的無人機燈光表演,事後廣受網民嘲笑俗氣、像長輩圖等,屈原「現身」在空中飄更讓我覺得是其於死忌顯靈,很是詭異。 我在臉書轉發了ReNews的報導,想不到有人會點讚,而且是一個多年沒見的外國人,我納悶她究竟喜歡什麼、知否「到底發生什麼事」,只可猜想是她從沒見過用無人機砌出漢字,欣賞此藝術吧。 我在港大工作時,有國內同事有次跟我路過英皇書院時,對我說他對那學校沒好感,因為他討厭楊受成。我聽了先是心中有點驚訝,但沒流露出來,並笑着解釋道:英皇是英國國皇的意思,英文叫King's College,是政府辦學,跟楊受成的英皇集團一點關係也沒有!那同事沒意會背後的殖民史,更與搞娛樂事業的公司穿鑿附會,不過不應嘲笑,我反而覺得其不把自己困於校園、留意附近社區之精神可嘉(很多港人一向覺得國內人來港後往往不踏出自己人的小圈子呢)。 文藝創作和社會/社區的形成,固然與背後的歷史和文化息息相關,但評析時又是否完全不可抽離背景呢? 近年對香港流行曲的評論(尤其對當紅的鏡仔),時常着重「咬字」,例如姜濤最新的《DUMMY》就獲多人稱讚咬字清晰聽得明歌詞。歌手追求發音清晰,固然對歌唱是有好處,但如以發音不清就批評歌曲又會不會太輕易抺殺了整個作品?世界音樂如此多元,不懂外語是否就要封閉自己不接觸其他地區的音樂?而就算我們這些外國人聽得懂外語歌詞,我們大概也不夠資格評論歌手咬字是否清晰標準吧。正如閱讀文字作品,讀者又會不會因為不明白其中幾個字的意思而認為作品不值一讀?又如果對作品的評語只是「用字淺顯易明」,除非是兒童書,不然作者也會啼笑皆非或覺得膚淺吧? 不求甚解,原意是要領會大意而不必着眼於字眼之意思,到今天則演變成不深入理解。了解相關背景,明白作品的細節,固然定品評和鑑賞甚有裨益,但現實中大家受時間和個人知識所限,往往只能對背景資料簡單了解、略知一二,只可看到事物較表面之處。然而,不完全理解創作背後的原意,也不一定妨礙受眾對其之欣賞和評價;不完全理解一地的歷史,也不全然妨礙人們對當地建築、規劃等表達讚賞或提出疑問。聽歌不要執着要求歌手字正腔圓,歌詞大意聽一兩遍一般都可明瞭大概,就算不想深究歌詞,旋律節奏等也可以是欣賞音樂的切入點。不過話說回來,無人機燈光表演,如果主辦者用心思考主題和舖排,再在字體設計下功夫,同時彰顯漢字的內涵和美學,豈非更妙?

Newborn, new experiences (1) 新生兒,新體會(1)

The birth of our daughter at the end of September marks a new chapter and brings about new life experiences for me and my wife. 小女9月底出生,為我和太太揭開人生新一章,也帶來新的體驗。 Mum was admitted to a nearby public hospital for the birth. The maternity ward is a lifely and buzzling place, subdivided into many rooms occupied by up to 4 mums and their babies at a time. Visiting hours is from 08:00 to 20:00, and up to one person can visit at one time and two different people each day. These limitations are part of the hospital's covid policies when the rest of the society has moved on as if nothing had happened - apparently there used to be no limit to visitations before covid, so a dad could in fact accompany the mum and baby all night long. One long-lasting impression from the maternity ward was the symphony of baby cries in which all babies took their turns to join including mine. Calming down the baby was almost impossible in this ambience and was very tough on mum especially when she was battling her

正字正確

廣州最近掀起保衛廣東話運動,早前星期日明報副刊一篇 文章 ,已對此作了精譬分析,我也不必插嘴了。 不過我想談談另一個相連的問題,相信久不久也會困擾好些港人,就是怎樣才算「正確」、「正統」的書面語。 我們自少便被老師耳提面命,廣東話絕不可用於寫作(雖然現在大行其道,我在網上留言甚至偶而寫電郵都會用廣東話),粵語和港式詞彙應以書面語(以普通話為標準的用語)取代,於是把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜,諸如此類,從小已習慣,我也沒異議。 但香港實在很多獨有的或跟國內有差別的詞彙,應用於主要給香港人看的場合當然沒問題,但國內或其他華人就可能覺得蹩腳甚至不一定明白。同樣國內的好些用詞,港人看到也會覺得有點不自然甚至礙眼。我寫網誌不時都會掙扎,究竟用國內的用詞好(我想一般來說應該是比較「正規」的,而且近幾年跟來自國內的人多了交往,或多或少都學到一點他們的用語),還是香港的說法好(始終不少讀者都是香港人,用上國內的詞語他們或許會覺得有點怪怪的),所以我盡可能兩者兼用,港式說法通常以括號並列,但我有時祇會用國內的用詞,也有時祇用香港的說法,可見我也往往拿不定主意。 問題是應該怎樣劃界線,區別「正確」和「不正確」的書面用語呢?我們應該遵從甚麼的「標準」?比方說在香港,學生寫了一句「我的志願是太空人」,公認是沒有問題的,老師一般也不會勉強學生寫「我的志願是航天員」,好了,這樣便是承認了香港和國內的用語確有區別,但既然如此,為甚麼把該句寫成「我嘅志願係太空人」時,老師便一定不會容許?又或者為甚麼寫作時硬要把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜?這道界線是誰定的,定立時又有甚麼理據?香港可不像很多國家般,有一個高高在上的法定語文機構(例如法國的Académie française),又或有權威性的詞典(例如英國的牛津字典,和國內的辭海),對語文作出一定規範,難免令人寫作時感到無所適從,甚麼香港和粵語詞彙可以用於書面、哪些不可。 用語的取向,也涉及文化取態的問題,我像一般港人一樣也認同寫作時要用書面語,盡量跟隨普通話的「標準」,但不會全盤用國內的詞彙和行文,一來不習慣,二來不免總有種維護本土文化的潛意識,特別是香港和國內社會制度上和文化上始終有點隔閡,這種矛盾不一定輕易化解。 究竟甚麼才算是「標準」、「正確」的書面中文,我想大概沒有「標準答案」,往往靠個人的見識和學養才可作出定奪,但隨著香港跟國內交往越來越