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Lake Geneva (2): from lakeside to mountains 日內瓦湖(2):從湖畔玩到山上

After the conference, I spent two sunny days (1st and 2nd June) touring Lake Geneva (Lac Léman) and the surrounding mountains.
會議開完後,在陽光充沛的兩天中(6月1日至2日)蹓躂日內瓦湖和附近的高山。

I stayed at a bed & breakfast in Montreux for those two days. The road to the house was not the most easy one especially when dragging luggage, as it took me about 10 minutes to walk halfway uphill to the entrance of the residence then climb a rather steep path through the garden before reaching the house. But all the hardship was forgotten when I turned around and saw the view of the colourful garden, tranquil waters of Lake Geneva and the French Alps across the lake. I even asked the host if there was wi-fi available so that I could upload a photo of the view for my friends!
那兩天我住在蒙特勒(Montreux)的一家民宅,在火車站下車後走了十來分鐘上半山,到了民宅的入口,再翻過其斜斜的花園,才到達房子,但當我回頭望到花園的景緻、恬靜的日內瓦湖和對岸法國的山脈時,剛才一切的辛苦就忘記得一乾二淨,我還問房東有沒有無線上網,好讓我馬上把眼前美景載上網跟大家分享呢!




















Views from the garden of the B&B  民宅花園的景色


I was anxious to start my visits as soon as I have put my luggage away. My first stop was Château de Chillon (Chillon Castle) which has been standing by the lake for almost 900 years. The castle used to an important fortress for the different ruling dynasties of the time. Apart from the majesty, one could also feel the tranquillity of the lake especially in the cellar. The sound of water gently hitting the wall and the sight of calm waters outside the windows were very relaxing and therapeutic; after all a main purpose of holiday is to take a respite from the daily grind and a slower pace from the normal daily life. The castle was generally quite well restored and had kept quite a collection of furniture and murals from the past (up to 800 years old!) which gave a glimpse into the history and prevailing artistic style during the Savoy era (12th centuty to 1536).
安頓好後便急不及待開展行程,先到臨湖而建的石庸城堡(Château de Chillon)參觀。城堡已建成差不多900年,在歷史上不同時期都是當時執政皇朝的重要據點,現在留給後人的,仍有當年的氣派和湖畔的靜謐,尤其是走到寂靜無人的地窖時,靜聽湖水輕輕拍打外牆,透過窗戶眺望波平如鏡的湖,但覺與世無爭,心靈受到洗滌;放假的目的,不外是想鬆弛身心,放慢腳步吧。城堡其他部份修復得不錯,保留了不少當時的家具(有的差不多有800年歷史!)和壁畫,展示城堡第一代主人薩瓦家族(The House of Savoy,12世紀至1536年)的歷史和當時的藝術。















Château de Chillon  石庸城堡












The cellar, also a storage space for wine barrels
地窖,同時是酒窖
































 Furniture and paintings from some 800 years ago
 從800多生前遺留下來的家具和壁畫





















Camera Nova








































The passageways inside the castle
城堡內的通道












The view from the top of the castle
城堡最高處的景色

















It’s actually not too difficult to spend a whole day in the castle to explore and experience every bit of it, but I was in a hurry to catch the ferry back to Montreux and had to rush through the last bits of the visit. As I looked back to Chillon from the ferry, the castle merged perfectly with the mountains behind it and formed an integral part of the picturesque scenery there. The short ferry trip kept me very busy as I switched between taking many panorama shots and just sitting back and taking it all in!
其實如果要細意發掘和感受城堡的每個角落的話,要花上一整天也不足為奇,不過我趕搭船回蒙特勒,所以參觀到尾聲時有點倉促。上到船,但見石庸城堡已與背後的高山融為一體,構成一幅迷人景緻。短短船程,沿湖的景色令我應接不暇,既要顧著拍合成照留念,又不想錯過欣賞風景的時刻,可有點忙呢!




The steam engines of the ferry
渡輪的蒸氣發動機

















The view of Château Chillon and the surrounding mountains
石庸城堡和附近的高山











Territet (above) and Montreux (below)  Territet(上圖)及蒙特勒(下圖)


After disembarking I took it easy along the lakefront of Montreux, grabbed a quick meal, bought a few things and stored them back in the B&B before heading out again. Meandering through the many little streets up the hill and the small Old Town, I ended up in the adjacent district called Territet. There I took a funicular uphill after hearing about it from the ferry staff when I saw a building like a castle somewhere high up in the mountains and asked the staff how it could be reached. In just 5 minutes the funicular whisked me up from Territet to Glion, where I changed for a train to Caux. The ‘castle’ was in full sight from the station at Caux, and I finally realised that it was the Swiss Hotel Management School! The mountain views surrounding Caux were rather beautiful and I spent a leisurely hour sauntering in the town.
上岸後,在蒙特勒市湖濱閒逛一會,隨便吃點東西,買點糧水,走回民宿卸貨後,便再度出發,沿著山上的內街穿過小小的舊城區,不經不覺來到與蒙特勒相連的Territet區。坐船時我問船員山上一家像城堡的建築是啥,他們便告訴我可以從Territet坐登山電車上山,我於是言聽計從了。登山電車祇消五分鐘便把我從山腳的Territet帶到Glion,然後在那裡轉乘火車到Caux,一下車便看到那座「城堡」,走過門口,才知道那是瑞士酒店管理學院(Swiss Hotel Management School)!Caux這個小鎮四周山色不錯,在那裡閒逛一小時挺舒服。




Montreux and Lake Geneva between the mountains
前後都是山的蒙特勒

























Hotel Fairmount Le Montreux Palace and the interesting art installations nearby
Fairmount Le Montreux Palace酒店及附近的藝術佈置










Market Hall
市場











Natural beauty by the lake
湖畔的自然美


























Typical buildings along Avenue des Alpes  沿著Avenue des Alpes的古典建築








































The Old Town of Montreux  蒙特勒舊城區




A hotel by the lake at Territet
Territet湖畔的酒店












The view from Glion station
Glion火車站的景色












Swiss Hotel Management School at Caux
Caux的瑞士酒店管理學院













































The town of Caux and the surrounding mountains
Caux中心和附近的山色













From Caux I took the train straight to Montreux, and since there was still light I went for a quick visit to the nearby city of Vevey. I was totally captivated when the view of the old town opened up to the lake and mountains, which was continually changing as I strolled along the promenade by the lake. The lakefront clearly belonged to people enjoying the best of an early summer sunset in all possible ways, from barbecues to ball games. The art work installed along the lakefront was also a joy to appreciate and I could only marvel at how well it blended with the surroundings.
從Caux坐火車,直達蒙特勒車站,趁天色仍亮,便趕快坐車到鄰近的城市沃韋(Vevey),穿過舊城區,來到湖畔,便給湖光山色迷住了!舉目環顧,四周盡是日內瓦湖對岸連綿的高山,湖畔生氣盅然,到處都聚集了燒烤的或玩樂的居民,各適其適地享受黃昏美好一刻,岸邊好些地方還安裝了些藝術擺設,帶著悠閑的心情邊漫步邊欣賞,我不由得讚嘆設計者的心思和藝術品跟四周環境的融合。
























The old town of Vevey
沃韋的舊城區

































Pretty drinking fountains  精緻的飲水塔



The scenic backdrop at Vevey  沃韋的湖光山色

















Possibly one of the most scenic playgrounds in the world
可能是世上風景最好的遊樂地方




















Take your favourite seat 
湖畔雅座,任君選擇




























An artistic lakefront
充滿藝術色彩的湖畔

















The Alimentarium (food museum) and statue of Charles Chaplin in front
食物博物館和前面的差利卓別靈人像











The next morning I took the GoldenPass train from Montreux station. It didn’t take long before the train left Lake Geneva behind and out of sight. As the train gradually meandered its way up the Alps, the scenery kept changing with endless permutations of mountains, meadows, farmhouses and small towns. Perhaps I should let the photos do the talking and show you the archetypical Switzerland!
第二天早上我從蒙特勒車站乘坐GoldenPass列車上山,不消一會列車便把日內瓦湖拋到背後,在環抱的群山中盤桓而上,沿途風光美不勝收,高山、草原、農家和市鎮不停交錯,交織出一幅幅風景畫,我不必多加描述了,大家就透過這些相片,感受一下典然的瑞士山色吧!























































































(You can see more photos at my Flickr site.  更多相片可在本人的Flickr網頁看到。)























I took the train all the way to the terminus Zweisimmen and went for a short walk in the nearby mountains. On the way back I alighted at Château d’Oex, which caught my eye en route to Zweisimmen with its chapel on a small hill. I thought that it would be a scenic vantage point, and I was indeed impressed!
我坐車至終點站Zweisimmen,閒逛一會欣賞山色後折返至Château-d’Oex停下來看看,在上山途中看到該處有座小山上建了家小教堂,想必是登高望遠的上佳地點,果然沒錯!
















 Zweisimmen

























 The town centre of Château-d'Oex
 Château-d'Oex市中心









 



































St. Donat Church at Château-d'Oex
Château-d'Oex的St. Donat教堂




Château-d'Oex from the vantage point of the church
從教堂環顧 Château-d'Oex












The pocket GoldenPass train timetable listed the timings for services to Gruyères, a town famous for its cheese. I went on a side trip there but didn’t end up seeing anything related to cheese (even though there was a cheese factory right next to the station at Gruyères). Instead I was more interested in the mediaeval town which was built on a hill and fortified by a wall encircling the whole town. Many of the buildings in the town were several hundred years old, including the castle.
火車 時間表列了轉車往格呂耶爾(Gruyères)的班次,那裡以乾奶酪(芝士)聞名,所以便慕名前往。我最後甚麼跟奶酪有關的東西也沒有看(其實 Gruyères車站旁有家讓遊客參觀的奶酪工場),倒是對格呂耶爾古城更有興趣。古城築在山丘上,四周為城牆包圍,城內的建築例如城堡,不少都有幾百年歷史。
















Gruyères from afar (above) and at the foot of the hill (right)
從老遠(上)和山腳(右)看格呂耶爾









The ramparts and village below the Old Town
城牆和舊城山腳下的鄉村















































A town that probably hasn't changed its face for hundreds of years
幾百年面貌不變的舊城區









































The castle at Gruyères and some of its rooms
格呂耶爾城堡及其房間
















The garden of the castle
城堡花園









The St. Théodule Church near the castle
城堡附近的St. Théodule教堂










The countryside at the foot of the other side of the Old Town
舊城區山腳另一邊的鄉郊


It was quite a rushed trip to visit so many places within 2 days, but thankfully the sunny days, long daytime and my travel pass gave me the full flexibility to travel wherever and whenever I wanted. And since leaving via Geneva on 3rd June the weather hasn’t been behaving in Munich and London, so I was especially glad that I have chosen the two best days to visit such a picturesque place!
短短兩天跑了這麼多地方,確實有點緊湊,可幸天公造美,日照時間長,再加上買了交通證,所以可以隨心所欲,上山下水,挑自己喜歡的地方遊覽,而自6月3日從日內瓦離開後,在慕尼黑和倫敦的天氣一直都怪不好,真慶幸天氣最好的兩天能夠飽覽這個風光如畫的國度

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正字正確

廣州最近掀起保衛廣東話運動,早前星期日明報副刊一篇 文章 ,已對此作了精譬分析,我也不必插嘴了。 不過我想談談另一個相連的問題,相信久不久也會困擾好些港人,就是怎樣才算「正確」、「正統」的書面語。 我們自少便被老師耳提面命,廣東話絕不可用於寫作(雖然現在大行其道,我在網上留言甚至偶而寫電郵都會用廣東話),粵語和港式詞彙應以書面語(以普通話為標準的用語)取代,於是把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜,諸如此類,從小已習慣,我也沒異議。 但香港實在很多獨有的或跟國內有差別的詞彙,應用於主要給香港人看的場合當然沒問題,但國內或其他華人就可能覺得蹩腳甚至不一定明白。同樣國內的好些用詞,港人看到也會覺得有點不自然甚至礙眼。我寫網誌不時都會掙扎,究竟用國內的用詞好(我想一般來說應該是比較「正規」的,而且近幾年跟來自國內的人多了交往,或多或少都學到一點他們的用語),還是香港的說法好(始終不少讀者都是香港人,用上國內的詞語他們或許會覺得有點怪怪的),所以我盡可能兩者兼用,港式說法通常以括號並列,但我有時祇會用國內的用詞,也有時祇用香港的說法,可見我也往往拿不定主意。 問題是應該怎樣劃界線,區別「正確」和「不正確」的書面用語呢?我們應該遵從甚麼的「標準」?比方說在香港,學生寫了一句「我的志願是太空人」,公認是沒有問題的,老師一般也不會勉強學生寫「我的志願是航天員」,好了,這樣便是承認了香港和國內的用語確有區別,但既然如此,為甚麼把該句寫成「我嘅志願係太空人」時,老師便一定不會容許?又或者為甚麼寫作時硬要把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜?這道界線是誰定的,定立時又有甚麼理據?香港可不像很多國家般,有一個高高在上的法定語文機構(例如法國的Académie française),又或有權威性的詞典(例如英國的牛津字典,和國內的辭海),對語文作出一定規範,難免令人寫作時感到無所適從,甚麼香港和粵語詞彙可以用於書面、哪些不可。 用語的取向,也涉及文化取態的問題,我像一般港人一樣也認同寫作時要用書面語,盡量跟隨普通話的「標準」,但不會全盤用國內的詞彙和行文,一來不習慣,二來不免總有種維護本土文化的潛意識,特別是香港和國內社會制度上和文化上始終有點隔閡,這種矛盾不一定輕易化解。 究竟甚麼才算是「標準」、「正確」的書面中文,我想大概沒有「標準答案」,往往靠個人的見識和學養才可作出定奪,但隨著香港跟國內交往越來越