Skip to main content

Lake Geneva (1): from west to east 日內瓦湖(1):由西至東行

At the end of May I attended a conference in the French-speaking part of Switzerland for 5 days, and the venue is located in Les Diablerets, a skiing town to the east of Lake Geneva (or Lac Léman as the local name in French ). Of course I took the opportunity to do some travelling in the region.
五月底到瑞士法語區開會議5天,地點是日內瓦湖(英語稱Lake Geneva,當地法語稱Lac Léman)以東的阿爾卑斯山滑雪小鎮萊迪亞布勒雷Les Diablerets,我當然沒放過這個機會,順道旅遊一下。

I have already arrived in Geneva the day before the conference (26th May) but saw all of the main tourist attractions within 7 hours! The most eye-catching landmark of Geneva is its Jet d’eau (water jet) that reaches about 50 m in height and can be seen anywhere around the lake. The south side of the lake is the more interesting part of town with a shopping street and the old town which is located on a small hill. On the southern end of the old town there is a promenade which overlooks the Parc des Bastions and the campus of the University of Geneva. The Wall of Reformers (Mur des Réformateurs) lines the foot of the promenade and commemorates important figures in religious reformation in the 16th century. The St. Peter’s Cathedral (Cathédrale St. Pierre), located at the highest point of the old town, is also an important site for the reformation in Geneva.
會議開始前一天(5月26日),我已到達日內瓦,但祇消7小時左右,所有大景點都看過了!日內瓦最奪目的是湖內的噴水柱(Jet d’eau),沿著湖畔甚麼地方都能看到那道高幾十米的瘦長白水柱。湖以南是舊城區和購物街,舊城區位於小山上,南端可俯瞰堡壘公園(Parc des Bastions)和日內瓦大學校園,山腳豎了一堵長幾十米的宗教改革牆(Mur des Réformateurs),用以紀念對16世紀宗教改革作出貢獻的人,舊城區山頂的聖彼得大教堂(Cathédrale St. Pierre)也是當年宗教改革的一大據點。


The city centre by the lake (above and below)  市中心環湖的部分(上、下)




Posters for a referendum on popular initiatives, whereby the general public has the right to propose amendments or additions to the constitution, to be held in Geneva on 17th June.  
瑞士政治的一大特色——民間創制繼而公投表決,在日內瓦透過海報宣傳展示,公投日子為6月17日






































A pretty fountain (above) and the majestic Jet d'Eau (right), as seen in Jardin Anglais (English Garden)
在英式花園(Jardin Anglais)看噴水池(上)和噴水柱(右)








A classy hotel
古色古香的酒店
















Cathédrale St. Pierre
日內瓦聖彼得大教堂
























The Old Arsenal (above) and Hotel de Ville (right), the seat of Geneva cantonal government and venue of important historical milestones such as the establishment of the Red Cross
舊城區內的舊軍火庫(上)和城市酒店(右),後者是日內瓦省政府辦公室,亦見證不少重要歷史時刻,例如紅十字會成立。



Parc des Bastions from Promenade de la Treille  從舊城區南端Treille大道俯瞰堡壘公園



Mur des Réformateurs in the Parc des Bastions  堡壘公園內的宗教改革牆



Musée Fondation Zoubov, an art museum
Zoubov基金會藝術博物館












The Broken Chair exhibit outside the Palais des Nations - United Nations Office, to raise awareness against land mines and cluster bombs
聯合國辦公室外的雕塑「斷椅」,旨在令公眾明白地雷和集束彈的破壞力













The conference would not start until the evening of the next day. As I didn’t feel like spending another day in Geneva and have bought a Regional Pass Léman-Alpes, I decided to make use of it by taking a steam boat first to Lausanne then changing to Les Diablerets there. The boat trip took a bit more than 3 hours via a zigzag route between the northern banks of Switzerland and southern banks of France.
翌日的會議到黃昏才開幕,橫豎不想繼續留在日內瓦,而且買了一張日內瓦湖區的交通證(Regional Pass Léman-Alpes),所以便決定早上坐蒸氣船前往洛桑(Lausanne),再在那裡轉往萊迪亞布勒雷。船程長三小時多一點,穿梭北岸的瑞士和南岸的法國,坐在船頭的甲板,別緻的小鎮和環湖的高山中輪流展現在眼前,放眼遠方,開揚的景色在晴空和湖水的襯托下,令人身心鬆弛,完全融合於這片天地中。




Jetée des Paquis, a jetty in Geneva
日內瓦市內的des Paquis堤











Left 左:Versoix
Below 下:Coppet














Nyon













Yvoire, France; apparently a popular spot for a dining trip by Geneva people
法國Yvoire,據說是日內瓦人尋找美饌的地點





















Leisure in the lake
湖中的閒情逸致











Destination: Lausanne
終點在望:洛桑













There was a 2-hour gap in Lausanne, and after a stroll along the lakefront near the pier I quickly took the automatic tram uphill to Lausanne city centre and walked a bit farther uphill to the old town, where I had a quick browse through the church and the classical-style government buildings nearby.
到達洛桑後有兩小時空檔,在下船附近的湖濱閒逛一會後便趕緊坐無人駕駛電車上山,再走一段斜路到舊城區繞一圈,走馬看花地看看教堂和附近古典的政府辦公樓。



The lakefront at Lausanne
洛桑的湖畔
















Palais de Rumine, home to the Cantonal Library of Lausanne and several museum
Rumine宮,集圖書館和數家博物館於一身





























Cathédrale de Lausanne
洛桑大教堂






The woven seats of the chairs inside the church
教堂內的椅子,坐墊由藤(?)織成


















Château St Maire (left) and other government buildings for the Canton of Vaud (below) surrounding the Place du Château (Castle Square)
Saint Maire城堡(左)和城堡廣場(Place du Château)四周的政府建築物(下)



















Pont Bessières (Bessières Bridge)
Bessières橋


















The trip to Lausanne to the conference venue Les Diablerets involved a train trip along the lake, alongside slopes that have turned into a big stretch of vineyards then past two well-known resort towns of Vevey and Montreux. The train trip ended at Aigle where I changed for a bus to Les Diablerets via a narrow winding road uphill. The mountains on both sides of the road formed one layer after another of natural shielding from the outside world. The intention of choosing such a location became clear to me: the other 150 or so attendants and I were meant to forget everything else and instead focus solely on the conference.
從洛桑到開會地點萊迪亞布勒雷,要先坐一趟火車,沿著湖邊,途經一片片開墾成葡萄園的山坡及兩個度假名城沃韋(Vevey)和蒙特勒(Montreux)後,來到Aigle,換乘一程大巴,在山腰的羊腸山路緩緩上山,兩旁峰巒疊錯,一個接一個的高山,把外面的世界分隔得越來越遠,心想到如此地方開會議,目的就是讓我們暫時與外隔離,專注會議吧。





















Vineyards - left: between Lausanne and Vevey; right: the mountains near Aigle
酒園 ——左:Lausanne和Vevey之間、右:Aigle附近的山
















Mountain views en route to Les Diablerets  
前往Les Diablerets途中的山色




































Les Diablerets is a small skiing town nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains. It ticks all the boxes for a pretty Alpine town, and I didn’t get tired of seeing the same view on the walks between the hotel and conference centre everyday. Although almost the end of spring, the mountains were still snow-capped with waterfalls flowing about halfway down from the peaks, presumably from the melting snow. Lying at the foot of those mountains was an expanse of lush green meadow dotted with a sea of white and yellow little wild flowers. The meadow was surrounded by wooden houses, with many of those first founded 100 or even 200 years ago. The houses reminded me of giant versions of cuckoo clocks with their steep roofs and walls made of logs!
萊迪亞布勒雷是個滑雪小鎮,四周被高山環抱,自成一個天地。每天往返酒店和會場,舉頭一望,但見白雪蓋頂的山巒,半山流著一道道相信是融雪形成的小瀑布,山腳有一大片綠油油的草原,長滿白色黃色的小野花,圍著草原蓋了一家家褐色木屋,在原址屹立了百多二百年的比比皆是,陡斜的屋頂、用木頭砌成的牆身,活像是布谷鳥鐘的真實巨型版!



Pretty wooden houses
充滿阿爾卑斯特色的木屋





Along the path between the hotel and conference centre  酒店及會場之間的路徑





Rural scenery
農村景緻













Up on the mountains there is a glacier also named Diablerets (also called Glacier 3000) with an altitude of more than 3000 metres. I paid a visit there with a fellow conference attendant from Beijing on the second day of the conference (28th May) as I had more free time during the free-activity period that afternoon. Admittedly the weather wasn’t the greatest and we were hoping that it would fine up by the time we reached the peak, but our wish didn’t came true and we were shrouded by thick cloud or fog. Still there were plenty of magnificent views to be seen from the cable car up and down the peak. Looking downhill from the cable car, the altitude dropped almost vertically for more than 1500 metres as the mountains rose from the valley almost like a stone wall. It’s sure to make those afraid of heights tremble!
山巒上有道大冰川,亦名為迪亞布勒雷(亦稱冰川3000),位處海拔3000多米高,開會第二天(5月28日)趁下午自由活動時間較空閒,便約同一個來自清華大學的與會者一起乘索道(纜車)登山。那天天色其實不算太好,本來希望到山頂時雲霧會消散,可是事與願違,到了山頂甚麼都看不見,四周白濛濛的,倒有種騰雲駕霧的感覺。在山上逗留了差不多一小時後下山,從索道車廂向下望,才驀然發現那座山真的是從山谷拔地而起,山坡差不多垂直下降千多米,畏高者想必會嚇得雙腳發軟!
























The ascent (left) looks innocuous but the descent (right) gives everyone a true idea of how steep these mountains are!
登山(左)時也沒覺山原來是那麼陡,下山時(右)向下望真會嚇人一跳!




Reaching for the sky
登高望遠

































Endless valleys and endless peaks
連綿的山谷和山峰




















Entering another world beyond the clouds
撥開千里雲霧,登入另一世界
























The serene world of snow
雪的仙境





















The five days at the conference were very satisfying. I learnt a lot on the latest developments in the field from the lectures and discussions with other people, and during free time I could go for a saunter in the nearby woods and enjoy what the nature had to offer. I sent this photo of Les Diablerets to several colleagues, and they were all quite envious of the scenery. It was indeed a fortune to be able to come to this place.
開會議的五天過得很充實,每天聽演講、跟其他人聊天討論,得悉行內的最新發展,有空時也可到小鎮附近的山林逛逛,接受大自然的滋潤。開會期間,寄了這張相片給幾個同事,讓他們羨慕不已,我這次有幸到萊迪亞布勒雷,是一種福氣!

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

不求甚解,可以嗎?

端午節在尖沙咀海傍的無人機燈光表演,事後廣受網民嘲笑俗氣、像長輩圖等,屈原「現身」在空中飄更讓我覺得是其於死忌顯靈,很是詭異。 我在臉書轉發了ReNews的報導,想不到有人會點讚,而且是一個多年沒見的外國人,我納悶她究竟喜歡什麼、知否「到底發生什麼事」,只可猜想是她從沒見過用無人機砌出漢字,欣賞此藝術吧。 我在港大工作時,有國內同事有次跟我路過英皇書院時,對我說他對那學校沒好感,因為他討厭楊受成。我聽了先是心中有點驚訝,但沒流露出來,並笑着解釋道:英皇是英國國皇的意思,英文叫King's College,是政府辦學,跟楊受成的英皇集團一點關係也沒有!那同事沒意會背後的殖民史,更與搞娛樂事業的公司穿鑿附會,不過不應嘲笑,我反而覺得其不把自己困於校園、留意附近社區之精神可嘉(很多港人一向覺得國內人來港後往往不踏出自己人的小圈子呢)。 文藝創作和社會/社區的形成,固然與背後的歷史和文化息息相關,但評析時又是否完全不可抽離背景呢? 近年對香港流行曲的評論(尤其對當紅的鏡仔),時常着重「咬字」,例如姜濤最新的《DUMMY》就獲多人稱讚咬字清晰聽得明歌詞。歌手追求發音清晰,固然對歌唱是有好處,但如以發音不清就批評歌曲又會不會太輕易抺殺了整個作品?世界音樂如此多元,不懂外語是否就要封閉自己不接觸其他地區的音樂?而就算我們這些外國人聽得懂外語歌詞,我們大概也不夠資格評論歌手咬字是否清晰標準吧。正如閱讀文字作品,讀者又會不會因為不明白其中幾個字的意思而認為作品不值一讀?又如果對作品的評語只是「用字淺顯易明」,除非是兒童書,不然作者也會啼笑皆非或覺得膚淺吧? 不求甚解,原意是要領會大意而不必着眼於字眼之意思,到今天則演變成不深入理解。了解相關背景,明白作品的細節,固然定品評和鑑賞甚有裨益,但現實中大家受時間和個人知識所限,往往只能對背景資料簡單了解、略知一二,只可看到事物較表面之處。然而,不完全理解創作背後的原意,也不一定妨礙受眾對其之欣賞和評價;不完全理解一地的歷史,也不全然妨礙人們對當地建築、規劃等表達讚賞或提出疑問。聽歌不要執着要求歌手字正腔圓,歌詞大意聽一兩遍一般都可明瞭大概,就算不想深究歌詞,旋律節奏等也可以是欣賞音樂的切入點。不過話說回來,無人機燈光表演,如果主辦者用心思考主題和舖排,再在字體設計下功夫,同時彰顯漢字的內涵和美學,豈非更妙?

Newborn, new experiences (1) 新生兒,新體會(1)

The birth of our daughter at the end of September marks a new chapter and brings about new life experiences for me and my wife. 小女9月底出生,為我和太太揭開人生新一章,也帶來新的體驗。 Mum was admitted to a nearby public hospital for the birth. The maternity ward is a lifely and buzzling place, subdivided into many rooms occupied by up to 4 mums and their babies at a time. Visiting hours is from 08:00 to 20:00, and up to one person can visit at one time and two different people each day. These limitations are part of the hospital's covid policies when the rest of the society has moved on as if nothing had happened - apparently there used to be no limit to visitations before covid, so a dad could in fact accompany the mum and baby all night long. One long-lasting impression from the maternity ward was the symphony of baby cries in which all babies took their turns to join including mine. Calming down the baby was almost impossible in this ambience and was very tough on mum especially when she was battling her

正字正確

廣州最近掀起保衛廣東話運動,早前星期日明報副刊一篇 文章 ,已對此作了精譬分析,我也不必插嘴了。 不過我想談談另一個相連的問題,相信久不久也會困擾好些港人,就是怎樣才算「正確」、「正統」的書面語。 我們自少便被老師耳提面命,廣東話絕不可用於寫作(雖然現在大行其道,我在網上留言甚至偶而寫電郵都會用廣東話),粵語和港式詞彙應以書面語(以普通話為標準的用語)取代,於是把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜,諸如此類,從小已習慣,我也沒異議。 但香港實在很多獨有的或跟國內有差別的詞彙,應用於主要給香港人看的場合當然沒問題,但國內或其他華人就可能覺得蹩腳甚至不一定明白。同樣國內的好些用詞,港人看到也會覺得有點不自然甚至礙眼。我寫網誌不時都會掙扎,究竟用國內的用詞好(我想一般來說應該是比較「正規」的,而且近幾年跟來自國內的人多了交往,或多或少都學到一點他們的用語),還是香港的說法好(始終不少讀者都是香港人,用上國內的詞語他們或許會覺得有點怪怪的),所以我盡可能兩者兼用,港式說法通常以括號並列,但我有時祇會用國內的用詞,也有時祇用香港的說法,可見我也往往拿不定主意。 問題是應該怎樣劃界線,區別「正確」和「不正確」的書面用語呢?我們應該遵從甚麼的「標準」?比方說在香港,學生寫了一句「我的志願是太空人」,公認是沒有問題的,老師一般也不會勉強學生寫「我的志願是航天員」,好了,這樣便是承認了香港和國內的用語確有區別,但既然如此,為甚麼把該句寫成「我嘅志願係太空人」時,老師便一定不會容許?又或者為甚麼寫作時硬要把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜?這道界線是誰定的,定立時又有甚麼理據?香港可不像很多國家般,有一個高高在上的法定語文機構(例如法國的Académie française),又或有權威性的詞典(例如英國的牛津字典,和國內的辭海),對語文作出一定規範,難免令人寫作時感到無所適從,甚麼香港和粵語詞彙可以用於書面、哪些不可。 用語的取向,也涉及文化取態的問題,我像一般港人一樣也認同寫作時要用書面語,盡量跟隨普通話的「標準」,但不會全盤用國內的詞彙和行文,一來不習慣,二來不免總有種維護本土文化的潛意識,特別是香港和國內社會制度上和文化上始終有點隔閡,這種矛盾不一定輕易化解。 究竟甚麼才算是「標準」、「正確」的書面中文,我想大概沒有「標準答案」,往往靠個人的見識和學養才可作出定奪,但隨著香港跟國內交往越來越