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Bayern, Natürlich! 巴伐利亞的湖光山色

The autumn weather has been very genial to everyone and has certainly kept travel bugs from hibernating! It’s only wise to seize this opportunity to enjoy the nature that is within an easy 2-hour reach from Munich. Serious hikers could not have asked for more, while casual travellers only wanting to do sight-seeing were not disappointed either.

入秋以來,天氣總的來說算是不錯,趁嚴冬未至,真得及時行樂,可幸慕尼黑兩小時車程範圍內,自然風光可不少,喜好行山者固然不愁沒好去處,就算隨便觀光也可大飽眼福。


The Sunday before going to the Black Forest (28th September), I went with another friend to a nearby lake called Chiemsee which is famous for, among others, the two largest islands of Fraueninsel (literally Ladies’ Island) and Herreninsel (Gentlemen’s Island). The view of the Alps in a distance added to the scenic appeal of the lake.

往黑森林前的星期日(9月28日),我跟一個朋友到基姆湖(Chiemsee),最主要是到湖中的兩大島——女人島(Fraueninsel)及男人島(Herreninsel)遊覽,順道欣賞由阿爾卑斯山構成的湖光山色。


We took the train to the town of Priem am Chiemsee, and from there we followed the tracks of the steam-engine train that ran between the railway station and the pier of the lake.

我倆乘火車來到Priem am Chiemsee那個小城,下車後沿着蒸氣火車軌一直走到碼頭,然後坐船出湖。




Running at full steam despite its age ...
古老的蒸氣火車

















The pier 碼頭


Our ferry first took us to the Fraueninsel which was tranquil and idyllic. One does not need to turn to its nunnery to seek a peaceful life on the island. The sights of private jetties and gardens that protruded from the shore into the lake were so suggestive of the relaxing lifestyle there. Those with a liking for fish should treat themselves to the catch from the lake, not only because it is guaranteed to be fresh, but also there’s nothing good to eat on the other island of Herreninsel!

第一站是女人島,那裡除了有個修道院外,也是修心養性的好地方,島上的民居,不少都有私家碼頭或是伸出湖邊的私家花園,喜歡吃魚者,記得要嘗嘗島上的湖鮮,一來保證新鮮,二來(後來才發覺)下一站男人島並沒有甚麼好吃的!












Houses on Fraueninsel 女人島上的房屋












Beautiful gardens 目不暇給的花園















Houses showcasing ceramics and glass decorations and household items
製作陶瓷和玻璃裝飾品和家居用品的地方
















Private enjoyment
私家享受























Karolingische Torhalle (left) and the Klosterkirche (Convent Church)
卡洛林城門廳(左)及修道院教堂(右)




Hard to think of snow when one sees the flowers, but local legend has it that it's a harbinger to much snow this winter!
此花盛放,乃冬天大雪之兆——本地傳統智慧如是說。











The greenery between the church and lake Chiemsee
教堂和基姆湖之間的草坪








The town of Gstadt, one of the many along the circumference of Chiemsee
遙望基姆湖畔其中一小鎮Gstadt







Getting ready for some music
樂隊準備演奏

















Fraueninsel (left) and some other very tiny islands from the middle of Chiemsee
從基姆湖遙望女人島(左)及其他名副其實的「小」島(右)



The highlight of the Herreninsel was undoubtedly the castle (Schloss Herrenchiemsee) that was built by King Ludwig II of Bavaria. The garden in front of the castle contains a few fountains which were inspired (or copied) from similar ones in other castles around Europe, while the interior of the castle gave me a sense of déjà vu as I progressed through the rooms. It all dawned on me as I entered the Hall of Mirrors and looked out to the garden with its fountains: this castle was like a duplicate of the Château de Versailles near Paris! (I would have liked to show you the photos from both castles side by side for comparison, except photography is not allowed in Schloss Herrenchiemsee.) The tour guide of the castle explained that King Ludwig II had always looked up to King Louis XIV of France and admired the Château de Versailles. To save him the trouble of travelling to Versailles, Ludwig decided to build one for himself on the island with each room several metres longer than its equivalent in Versailles. One big difference between the two arose, however, because the original entrance of Schloss Herrenchiemsee was not built for a lack of funds, so what should have been the back garden like the Versailles has become the front garden. I couldn’t help but wonder why the Versailles was the second most copied castle in the world (after the Neuschwanstein Castle) – the Schonbrunn Castle in Vienna also drew some inspirations from the Versailles.

男人島的最大賣點,就是由巴伐利亞末代皇帝路易二世興建的男基姆湖宮(Schloss Herrenchiemsee)。皇宮前的花園,有好幾個噴水池,設計取材(實則找襲)自歐洲其他皇宮,而進入宮內參觀時,赫然有種似曾相識的感覺,從前廳走到中央的鏡廳,再從鏡廳向花園外望,但覺這個男基姆湖宮是法國凡爾賽宮的複製品!(祇可惜該處謝絕拍攝,不然可把兩宮的相片並排給大家比較比較。)聽宮內導遊介紹,興建該宮的巴伐利亞未代皇帝路德維希二世,不祇仰慕法國的路易十四世(法國大革命中被推翻的皇帝),亦極欣賞凡爾賽宮,所以便照凡爾賽宮的設計在男人島建了一座一模一樣的(不過男基姆湖宮每個宮室都比凡爾賽宮相同的宮室要長三數米),免其長途跋涉往法國之苦,但兩宮建築上最大的差異,就是男基姆湖宮因資金缺乏而沒有興建像凡爾賽宮的正門,所以本應是後花園的地方便變成了前花園及正門。我不禁想,緣何凡爾賽宮會受如此青睞,成為其他皇宮(包括維也納的美泉皇宮)「參考」的對象?












The front garden of the castle, featuring prominently the Latona Fountain (right)
皇宮的前花園,在正中央是Latona噴泉















The fountains closer to the entrance, namely the Fortuna fountain (left) and the Fama fountain (right)
正門前兩側的Fortuna(左)和Fama(右)噴泉


The gardens of Schloss Herrenchiemsee and the Versailles also set themselves apart. Along the central axis of Schloss Herrenchiemsee, there was a promenade lined with trees on both sides forming a wall that extended right to the lake, affording an air of majesty. And in contrast to the meticulous lay-out and décor in the gardens of Versailles, naturalness was the order of the day in Schloss Herrenchiemsee as its garden was surrounded by woods filled with trees touching the sky.

兩者的花園還有兩大分別,一是男基姆湖宮花園中軸的走廊,兩側各一列大樹,形成一堵牆,直通基姆湖,氣派非凡,二是花園兩旁是大片樹林,裡面盡是參天大樹,盡量保留了自然氣息,跟精雕細琢、庭園處處的凡爾賽宮花園大異其趣。

























After a quick stroll to the other parts of the Herreninsel, it was time to head back to the mainland. Back in Prien am Chiemsee, there was time for a quick peek into the town before the train to Munich arrived.

之後在男人島其他地方逛逛,然後乘船回岸,走回Prien am Chiemsee,趁等回慕尼黑的火車的時候,到Prien市內看看。



The view of Fraueninsel from the Old Castle
從舊城堡遠望女人島









Inside the old castle
舊城堡內





















Stables and farms
馬廄和田園








The Bavarian Alps against Chiemsee
遠處的巴伐利亞阿爾卑斯山





















A quick wander through Prien
匆匆在Prien逛逛









Two weeks after the Black Forest trip, we had the fortune of more fine and warm days (although that particular morning was pretty cold!) and I decided not to waste it. With a group of friends, we drove to the Berchtesgaden region (called Berchtesgadenland in German) on 18th October for a visit to the famous Mount Kehlstein (Eagle’s Nest in English) and the lake of Königssee (King’s Lake).

去過黑森林後兩星期,把握天晴和暖的天氣(雖然早上仍很冷!)我和一班朋友相約,在10月18日開車往Berchtesgaden地區的兩大名勝——鷹巢山(Kehlstein)和國王湖(Königssee)。


Berchtesgadenland is located in the south-eastern corner of Germany (and Bavaria) tucked into Austria and surrounded on three sides by this neighbour. We were constantly reminded of this fact by the constant beeping of our mobile phones, from the SMS messages advising us that we’ve been connected to the Austrian network due to our automatic roaming. It paid to be careful and check the network connection before dialling so as to avoid those nasty roaming charges!

Berchtesgaden地區位處德國(及巴伐利亞州)的東南隅,地理上已伸進了奧地利,三面給這個鄰國包圍,連手機信號也因自動漫遊而不停連接上奧地利的網絡,一不留心打電話,隨時惹來漫遊費!











Some of the beautiful mountain views en route, including our breakfast stop at Bayerische Gmund (right).
沿途山色秀麗,在Bayerische Gmund(右)吃早餐時便是對着如此景色。


We first headed to Kehlstein, admittedly through the easy way of taking a bus uphill from the tourist car park, then the lift from the bus stop to the top. The alternative way would have cost three hours or so of time, sweat and energy if none of these are in short supply! We realised why no one was permitted to drive all the way to the mountain: the long winding road that the bus followed could only accommodate single file traffic, and it would have been a big chaos if the road was clogged with cars.

我們先前往鷹巢山,一行五懶人,捨難取易,把車停放在下半山的停車場,然後轉乘巴士上山到上半山的廣場(其實時間和體力充沛的話可花三小時左右走上去),再乘升降機上山。巴士上山的路不但蜿蜒,而且祇容一車通行,怪不得是不可以讓公眾自行駕車上山了。



The documentation centre (for World War II) near the car park
停車場附近的二次大戰檔案中心








The entrance to the lift
升降機的出入口











The lift took us to a hut, now the site for a restaurant but it was formerly the resort for Hitler called the Kehlsteinhaus (Eagle’s Nest House) which was meant for Hitler’s 50th birthday. The choice of the location was indeed rather fitting for an overarching ruler like him, but Hitler did not frequent this place because of his fear of heights. One side of the mountain overlooked an alternating pattern of mountains and plains that stretched all the way to the horizon, while the other side commanded an unobstructed view of the Königssee and its surrounding mountains. The breadth of view was simply unrivalled.

從升降機走出來的地方是一家餐廳,前身其實是希特勒的鷹巢別墅(Kehlsteinhaus),本來是送給希特勒的50歲壽辰賀禮,但希特勒本身畏高,所以甚少前往。別墅選址的確一流,居高臨下,山的一邊高山和平原交錯,一望無際,另一邊可遠眺國王湖及鄰近的山脈,視野絲毫無阻,大有君臨天下之勢。











Kehlsteinhaus 鷹巢別墅



The crucifix at Kehlstein
鷹巢山的十字架












Königssee
國王湖






























Steep cliffs and trails 陡斜的懸崖和山路












The terrain nearby (see also the video below)
鄰近地區的地勢(亦可看以下短片)





Possibly the highest donation box in the world - for volunteer rescuers
可能是全世界最高的捐款箱,用作資助自願搜救者。









It was raining steadily in Munich two days before, but I've never thought that the rain would turn into snow here!
登山前兩天在慕尼黑連續下雨,想不到在這裡變成下雪!











From our descent from Kehlstein, we set off immediately to Königssee. While the lake may not be the most impressive on the surface, with a length of 8 km and breadth of 1.3 km at its widest point, it reaches quite a formidable maximum depth of 200 metres!

從鷹巢山下來,我們馬上前往國王湖,別看少這個扁扁長長的湖,長8公里,最寬處有1.3公里,水最深處差不多是200米!














The town of Schönau am Königssee near the lake
國王湖附近的小鎮Schönau


The lake was surrounded on all sides by mountains, dressed in a variegation of the autumn colours of red, yellow and green. When our boat trip on the lake reached one of the narrower points of the lake, the member of staff who was giving us tourist information about the lake exchanged his microphone for a trumpet, opened a door and started playing some music. It didn’t take long before we could hear an echo, faint at first but gradually picking up as the music continued.

國王湖四面環山,那時秋色正濃,紅色、黃色和綠色混成一片,色彩繽紛,我們坐遊船來到湖面較窄之處時,給我們作沿途講解的職員放下咪高峰,開了一道門,拿起喇叭,吹奏起來,原來沒多久便聽到迴音,而且愈來愈響亮。


The pier
碼頭


















The views of the surrounding mountains
環湖的山色




Listen for the echo - special effects included!
細心留意迴音——包括特別效果迴音


We followed the crowd when the boat called at the St. Bartholomä Church and alighted there. Apart from the picturesque views, we were attracted by the delicious local specialty of smoked fish from the catch of the same day. It was of course an opportunity not to be missed, since fresh fish is a rather uncommon commodity in Munich and we were looking for some nice food to fill our empty stomachs up.

船到了St. Bartholomä教堂,我們都跟大部分人下了船,那裡除風景外,還有一樣吸引人的東西,就是新鮮煙薰魚,是當天在湖捕捉後立即自行煙薰。在慕尼黑難得吃到新鮮魚,而且那時大家還沒吃過飯,我們當然沒錯過那個機會。












St. Bartholomä Church St. Bartholomä教堂



The pier at St. Bartholomä
教堂附近的碼頭




















The mountains near the church 教堂附近的山色














The views of the lake near the church 教堂附近的湖景















The fish restaurant (Fischerstüberl, top left), its interior (top centre), its kitchen with wood oven (top right) and its specialty (left)
新鮮煙薰魚餐廳(左上),其餐廳範圍(中上)、有柴火烤爐的灶房(右上)及其出品(左)






After our meal, we went for a walk in the vicinity of the church before boarding the ferry back to our starting pier. From there, we went to a short hike along the trail of Malerwinkel (literally meaning painter’s corner) into the hills near the pier.

飯後在教堂附近散步,坐船回到起點的碼頭,我們便沿着一道名為畫家角(Malerwinkel)的路徑,在附近的小山兜個圈。



The view of Königssee from the Malerwinkel trail
從畫家角路徑俯瞰國王湖























The tall trees along the trail, including many which were rooted in boulders (right)
沿途的高樹,不少植根於巨石上




The village at the exit of the trail - somewhat reminiscent of the Alpine village view in Switzerland
路徑出口的村莊,景色令我想起瑞士






It became dark when we left Königssee. We had a brief stop in the city of Berchtesgaden and continued our way to a nearby town called Bad Reichenhall for a dinner before driving back to Munich.

離開國王湖是天色漸黑,我們在Berchtesgaden市逗留了一會,然後開車到鄰近的小鎮Bad Reichenhall 吃晚飯,補充體力後才返回慕尼黑。



The railway station of Berchtesgaden
Berchtesgaden火車站











The town hall of Bad Reichenhall
Bad Reichenhall市政廳









We were lucky enough to have visited those places in time. Kehlstein is closed to the public from the end of October, while the Schloss Herrenchiemsee has reduced opening hours in winter with the streams of water out of the fountains shut off. So now you know why it’s important for me to work hard and travel hard!

我們去那些地方遊玩,總算趕得上尾班車,鷹巢山在十月底已開始封閉,男基姆湖宮冬季縮短開放時間之餘亦會把噴泉的噴水關掉,所以旅遊真的要及時!

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The birth of our daughter at the end of September marks a new chapter and brings about new life experiences for me and my wife. 小女9月底出生,為我和太太揭開人生新一章,也帶來新的體驗。 Mum was admitted to a nearby public hospital for the birth. The maternity ward is a lifely and buzzling place, subdivided into many rooms occupied by up to 4 mums and their babies at a time. Visiting hours is from 08:00 to 20:00, and up to one person can visit at one time and two different people each day. These limitations are part of the hospital's covid policies when the rest of the society has moved on as if nothing had happened - apparently there used to be no limit to visitations before covid, so a dad could in fact accompany the mum and baby all night long. One long-lasting impression from the maternity ward was the symphony of baby cries in which all babies took their turns to join including mine. Calming down the baby was almost impossible in this ambience and was very tough on mum especially when she was battling her

不求甚解,可以嗎?

端午節在尖沙咀海傍的無人機燈光表演,事後廣受網民嘲笑俗氣、像長輩圖等,屈原「現身」在空中飄更讓我覺得是其於死忌顯靈,很是詭異。 我在臉書轉發了ReNews的報導,想不到有人會點讚,而且是一個多年沒見的外國人,我納悶她究竟喜歡什麼、知否「到底發生什麼事」,只可猜想是她從沒見過用無人機砌出漢字,欣賞此藝術吧。 我在港大工作時,有國內同事有次跟我路過英皇書院時,對我說他對那學校沒好感,因為他討厭楊受成。我聽了先是心中有點驚訝,但沒流露出來,並笑着解釋道:英皇是英國國皇的意思,英文叫King's College,是政府辦學,跟楊受成的英皇集團一點關係也沒有!那同事沒意會背後的殖民史,更與搞娛樂事業的公司穿鑿附會,不過不應嘲笑,我反而覺得其不把自己困於校園、留意附近社區之精神可嘉(很多港人一向覺得國內人來港後往往不踏出自己人的小圈子呢)。 文藝創作和社會/社區的形成,固然與背後的歷史和文化息息相關,但評析時又是否完全不可抽離背景呢? 近年對香港流行曲的評論(尤其對當紅的鏡仔),時常着重「咬字」,例如姜濤最新的《DUMMY》就獲多人稱讚咬字清晰聽得明歌詞。歌手追求發音清晰,固然對歌唱是有好處,但如以發音不清就批評歌曲又會不會太輕易抺殺了整個作品?世界音樂如此多元,不懂外語是否就要封閉自己不接觸其他地區的音樂?而就算我們這些外國人聽得懂外語歌詞,我們大概也不夠資格評論歌手咬字是否清晰標準吧。正如閱讀文字作品,讀者又會不會因為不明白其中幾個字的意思而認為作品不值一讀?又如果對作品的評語只是「用字淺顯易明」,除非是兒童書,不然作者也會啼笑皆非或覺得膚淺吧? 不求甚解,原意是要領會大意而不必着眼於字眼之意思,到今天則演變成不深入理解。了解相關背景,明白作品的細節,固然定品評和鑑賞甚有裨益,但現實中大家受時間和個人知識所限,往往只能對背景資料簡單了解、略知一二,只可看到事物較表面之處。然而,不完全理解創作背後的原意,也不一定妨礙受眾對其之欣賞和評價;不完全理解一地的歷史,也不全然妨礙人們對當地建築、規劃等表達讚賞或提出疑問。聽歌不要執着要求歌手字正腔圓,歌詞大意聽一兩遍一般都可明瞭大概,就算不想深究歌詞,旋律節奏等也可以是欣賞音樂的切入點。不過話說回來,無人機燈光表演,如果主辦者用心思考主題和舖排,再在字體設計下功夫,同時彰顯漢字的內涵和美學,豈非更妙?