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The Hungarian Capital Trinity (2) 「三合一」首都(2)

Our long weekend in Hungary turned into a mini workplace outing. On our second day in Budapest, a few more colleagues have arrived and we all met at the Parliament building wanting to join the official guided tour.

我和中國同事在匈牙利的那個長週未,實驗室也彷彿跟我們搬了過去!在布達佩斯的第二天,一眾來度假的同事齊集在國會大樓外,準備參加指定的導遊團。


Some of us were not lucky enough to get a ticket for the earliest tour, so we had to find a way to kill time. At first I suggested to a Japanese colleague that we could go to the Central Market Hall (Nagyvásárcsarnok) together, but we got side-tracked at the Széchenyí Lánchíd (Chain Bridge). The traffic on the bridge had all but disappeared and was replaced by an arts and craft market. One of the stall owners told me that this arts and craft market was open on all weekends during summer time.

不過並非人人都買到當日第一團的入場券,等待下一團之時間總得想辦法打發,原定打算跟日本同事同往大市場(Nagyvásárcsarnok),但走到鏈橋(Széchenyí Lánchíd)時,發覺該橋搖身一變,由車水馬龍的行車橋變為手工藝市集,那裡其中一個檔主告訴我,該市集原來在夏季時逢週未都在鏈橋上開設。



The arts and craft market on Széchenyí Lánchíd
鏈橋上的手工藝市集
















Taking the stage 哪個舞台較適合你?



There was enough to see and tempt us to loosen our purse strings. We had little problem passing time until our turn to visit the Parliament.

市集不祇是消磨時間的好去處,也是另一個打我們錢包主意的場合,回到國會差不多是我們入場的時候了。


Inside the Parliament, we were taken through the steps leading to the central dome hall (96 metres high), followed by the north parlour and finally the adjoining parliament chamber. The Parliament building, with its north-south symmetrical design, was originally intended for a bicameral system (i.e. two houses of parliament) but after 1944 Hungary has abolished the upper chamber. The northern wing of the parliament, which used to be the seat of the upper chamber, is now mainly for international or parliamentary committee meetings.

導遊帶我們走進國會,沿樓梯登上樓高96米中央圓頂大廳,然後進入北翼,經過接待室再進入議事廳。國會的建築和室內設計呈南北對稱,原先是配合以前匈牙利國會的雙議院制,但自1944年改行單議院制後,原為上議院的北翼便成為舉辦國際會議和國會不同委員會開會的地方。











Views of the parliament 國會外貌



A model of the parliament made from matches
用火柴砌成的國會模型
















The 96 steps leading to the parliamentary chambers
前往國會各室的楷梯












The central dome hall (left) and the royal crown exhibited in the centre of the hall (right)
圓頂大廳(左)和陳列在大廳中央的皇冠(右)




The parlour leading to the parliament chamber
議事廳前的接待室





Leave your cigars before entering the parliament chamber!
(Back in the days when smoking was still allowed inside the building, the length of the cigar remaining on the rack was taken as an indication of the length and quality of a politician's speech. Hence there's an Hungarian saying that a good speech is worth a Havana!)
議員專用的雪茄架,架上的雪茄越短,越能反映議員發言的長度和深度,所以匈牙利有句話,曰:一篇好的演說,抵得上一根古巴夏瓦那雪茄!(當然室內禁煙後現已成絕響。)













The parliament chamber (left) and one of the corridors outside (right)
議事廳(左)和外面的其中一道走廊(右)



Afterwards, one of our Hungarian colleagues took me and my Chinese colleague to Pál-völgyi Cave (Pál-völgyi Barlang) in the hills of the Buda part of the city. The verdure and the hilly terrain almost made us forget that we were still within the Budapest city area and that we weren’t really too far away from the city centre!

參觀國會後,其中一個匈牙利同事帶我和中國同事前住布達區內的Pál-völgyi山洞。山洞入口的周圍盡是一片綠油油的山坡,差點令我以為已遠離布達佩斯,其實那裡離市中心仍然很近呢!
(Photo from my Chinese friend 相片由中國同事攝)


There are quite a lot of caves scattered across Hungary, and caving was quite popular among some people. The Pál-völgyi Cave encompasses an interconnected network totalling 19 km. Visitors were only allowed through a 1/2 km section but it seemed to stretch on for much longer! The interior of the cave was a lot cooler than the outside (the temperature was about 10 °C) and a lot more humid as the handrails felt damp everywhere. Be sure to hold on to the handrails as the tour guide will constantly remind visitors not to touch the walls of the caves. This is because the oil from our fingers will remain after touching, and it will prevent water from dripping and thus carrying the nutrients to the microbes whose growth is reliant on it. The microbes can only grow 1 to 2 cm every one hundred years! They were everywhere in the cave and looked like a heap of caramel or chocolate cream.

其實匈牙利全國山洞處處,洞穴探險對部分人來說也算是一種流行的運動。Pál-völgyi山洞由總長19公里相連的洞穴形成,遊客祇可參觀其中500米,但那500米感覺很長很長呢!洞內溫度祇有10度,明顯比外面涼快,而且濕度較高,洞內通道的扶手都是濕濕滑滑,儘管如此,扶手仍得抓緊,導遊三令五申提醒我們切勿觸摸洞壁,因觸摸後會留下皮膚上的油份,影響洞壁滴水的流向,妨礙依靠水滴內養份滋長的微生物,那些微生物外貌像一堆奶油或焦糖,每百年才積聚一至兩厘米。












The first chamber upon entry, featuring burnt spots from the first explorers (left) and the 'organ pipe' in the wall (right)
入洞後的第一個窟,洞壁上有首批探險者燒火留下的痕跡(左)和一台「風琴」(右)













This cave is inhabited by 'animals', including a crocodile, scorpion (among many others in the left picture) and a turtle (right)
山洞內有「動物」居住,包括鱷魚、蝎子(左圖,還有其他)和龜(右)



Memorial for one of Hungary's famous cave explorers, László Lakatos
紀念匈牙利一個著名的洞穴探索家László Lakatos









The theatre chamber
劇院窟








The stone of justice - it's supposed to fall on those who have cheated against their partners!
真相石——要是對伴侶不忠的話,石會掉下來懲罰你!


















Interesting stone formations 奇形怪石












The narrow and sometimes steep passages 窄而時陡的通道



Fossil of a sea shell from 40 million years ago
四千萬年前的海貝化石


















The Fable Chamber with the 'Snow White and the Seven Dwarves' (left, the tallest stone is Snow White)
童話窟及其「雪姑七友」(左圖,最高的石柱為白雪公主)













More interesting rock formations, sometimes coated with microbes (right)
更多奇形怪石及積在石上的微生物(右)



Then it was time to pay a visit to a well-known Budapest establishment of thermal baths. This city is blessed with a natural source of underground thermal water, which is also responsible for the formation of the cave system millions of years ago due to geological activities, and the water is harnessed for the myriad of thermal baths around town. We went to one of the more popular places called the Gellért Gyógyfurdő (Gellert Spa Baths), right opposite to the cave church of Gellérthegy. The classical interior décor was still well preserved in contrast to the utilitarian design of most modern swimming pools, and I was pleasantly surprised by the classy private cabins in the change room. (You can tell that I have never set foot into an exclusive resort in my life!)

不祇是手工藝市集,布達佩斯的浴場也實在誘人,吸引我們再次前往。查實布達佩斯的山洞和浴場乃一脈相承,市內地底本身有地熱水,在上百萬年前透過侵蝕作用形式山洞,現時地質活動停頓下來後,地熱水就被提取到市內眾多浴場。我和中國同事前往前一天到過的蓋雷特山(Gellérthegy)對面的蓋雷特浴場,那浴場仍保留了古典的室內設計,而更衣室內的獨立包廂更令我覺得新奇,也許是因為我未嘗見識高級會所是甚麼回事吧。















Out of the water, I joined my other work colleagues for a dinner around the corner from the spa baths. Our meal kept with the water theme as most of us ordered fish dishes of one kind or the other. The restaurant offered a good variety of fish dishes, which surprised me somewhat as I would not have associated Hungarian cuisine with fish. But I guess the many rivers that run through the country and the lake of Balaton have compensated for the distance from the sea.

泳後跟其他同事在浴場附近的一家餐廳一同晚膳,我們點的菜式,仍然離不開水,餐廳有不少以河鮮作材料的菜式,我可沒想過在匈牙利菜中,水產會佔一大地位,但回心一想,匈牙利境內河流甚多,又有一大個Balaton湖,儘管是內陸,水產供應也應不少。











The famous Hungarian fisherman's soup (Halászlé, on the left) and catfish paprikash (right)
匈牙利有名的魚湯(左)及鯰魚(右)



Sunday morning (our last day) began with a leisurely stroll through the City Park (Városliget), very fitting with the tranquil atmosphere at that time. Soon we reached the castle complex of Vajdahunyad Vára which now houses the agricultural museum and a church.

星期日早上(最後一天)四周都很安寧,正好襯托我們閒逛城市公園(Városliget)的逸致,不久便來到Vajdahunyad Vára城堡群,現在是農業博物館和一所教堂的所在地。













The agriculture museum (left) and the churches (centre and right) in the Vajdahunyad Vára complex
Vajdahunyad Vára城堡的農業博物館(左)和教堂(中、右)



This queen is very popular with visitors!
遊人必要覲見的女皇







The gates of Vajdahunyad Vára
Vajdahunyad Vára 的城門






Walking through the gate of the castle, we came to the Hősök Tere (the Square of Heroes) which commemorates some of the most important personalities in Hungarian history and serves as a war memorial.

穿過城堡群的城門,我們走到敞大的英雄廣場(Hősök Tere),廣場紀念的包括匈牙利史上的重要人物和歷年來為國捐軀的人。





















The Hősök Tere was flanked by the Art Gallery on one side and the Museum of Fine Arts on another. My Chinese friend and I visited the Egyptian Renaissance exhibition in the latter as well as its permanent exhibitions. The museum seems to have a good collection of ancient Egyptian artefacts already in their permanent exhibition which excited my Chinese friend quite a lot! Even if the exhibits don’t interest you, the grandeur of the building itself will be impressive enough.

英雄廣場一側是美術館,另一側是藝術博物館,我和中國同事進了藝術博物館參觀名為「古埃及之文藝復興」的展覽及館內的常設展覽,單是常設展覽區內的古埃及展品已為數不少,叫中國同事雀躍不已。就算對展品沒興趣,隨便在博物館內走走,其建築也值得所賞。




Museum of Fine Arts
藝術博物館
















Majesty and charm of this classical Museum building (photos of my Chinese friend)
博物館古典的建築(中國同事攝)



From the Museum, we took the Andrássy út (Andrássy Avenue) which runs from the Hősök Tere to the city centre. The layout looked somewhat like Champs-Élysées but we both found the street a bit bland. Perhaps we don’t have the knowledge and the mood to appreciate the supposedly varied architectural styles along the street.

從藝術博物館出來,我倆走經連接英雄廣場和市中心的安德拉什大街(Andrássy út),街道的佈局驟眼看來有點像巴黎的香榭麗舍大道,但兩旁看來沒甚麼特色,大概是我們不懂或沒有興緻欣賞吧。



Andrássy út lined by trees
種了一列樹的安德拉什大街









One quarter of the circular complex of buildings at Kodály Körönd on Andrássy út
安德拉什大街途中經過Kodály Körönd四幢弧形大廈之一




We thought it would be easy to find a place for lunch in that part of the city but weren’t very successful. We decided to head back to the area near the Central Market Hall, and ended up in a street lined with restaurants. We settled for one of those and had an enjoyable lunch as the bright red ‘strawberry soup’ lifted our moods and appetite. It was certainly an interesting way of turning a fruit into a proper dish!

還以為走到大街盡頭的市中心區,找家餐廳理應不難,不過最後都讓我們失望,還是回到大市場附近找找,結果給我們找到一條盡是餐廳的街道,隨便走進其中一家,享受一頓午餐,我點了紅草莓湯作前菜,鮮紅的顏色,已令人眼前一亮,鮮甜的味道,更令人食欲大振,以這個方法炮製紅草莓,倒挺有創意呢!




The paintings outside a restaurant near Andrássy út
安德拉什大街附近一家餐廳外牆的畫


















The strawberry soup (left) and a roast goose leg (right) for lunch!
午餐的紅草莓湯 (左)和烤鵝腿(右)



Our last destination before leaving Budapest was the Margit-Sziget (Margaret Island). The whole island is now basically one big park full of joggers, cyclists and sports players, a far cry from the yesteryears when it has been the royal hunting ground and the site of a convent. The only reminder of its history lay in the ruins of the convent which was never rebuilt after destruction by a war against the invading Turkish troops so many years ago.

在布達佩斯的最後一個目的地,就是多瑙河中央的瑪爾吉特島(Margit-Sziget),全島綠油油一片,其實是個大公園,吸引不少人來跑步、騎腳踏車和參與其他運動。該島從前是皇室打獵的地方,亦有段時期建了修院,但修院在幾百年前跟土耳其人打仗時被催毀,之後一直沒重建。




The view of Margit-Sziget from the bridge that links it to both sides of the Danube (the Margit-híd)
從連接瑪爾吉特島至多瑙河兩岸的瑪爾吉特橋上遠望該島






The entrance to Margit-Sziget
瑪爾吉特島的入口


















The Viztorony (Water Tower, left) towards the other end of the island and the theatre at the foot of the tower (right)
島另一端的水塔(左)及塔下的劇場(右)



Ruins of the convent
修院的遺跡









The view of the Margit-híd bridge and the parliament (behind the bridge) from Margit-Sziget
從瑪爾吉特島回望瑪爾吉特橋和後面的國會






Three days with so much to see and do around Budapest without the feeling of being rushed and large crowds of tourists – get there before everyone else realises what Budapest has to offer!

在布達佩斯的三天,行程雖有點緊密,但心境絕不覺得緊迫,而且遊客不算特別多,所以玩得也挺輕鬆,有意到布達佩斯或匈牙利遊玩的朋友,應趁未「客」滿為患前去一趟!

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端午節在尖沙咀海傍的無人機燈光表演,事後廣受網民嘲笑俗氣、像長輩圖等,屈原「現身」在空中飄更讓我覺得是其於死忌顯靈,很是詭異。 我在臉書轉發了ReNews的報導,想不到有人會點讚,而且是一個多年沒見的外國人,我納悶她究竟喜歡什麼、知否「到底發生什麼事」,只可猜想是她從沒見過用無人機砌出漢字,欣賞此藝術吧。 我在港大工作時,有國內同事有次跟我路過英皇書院時,對我說他對那學校沒好感,因為他討厭楊受成。我聽了先是心中有點驚訝,但沒流露出來,並笑着解釋道:英皇是英國國皇的意思,英文叫King's College,是政府辦學,跟楊受成的英皇集團一點關係也沒有!那同事沒意會背後的殖民史,更與搞娛樂事業的公司穿鑿附會,不過不應嘲笑,我反而覺得其不把自己困於校園、留意附近社區之精神可嘉(很多港人一向覺得國內人來港後往往不踏出自己人的小圈子呢)。 文藝創作和社會/社區的形成,固然與背後的歷史和文化息息相關,但評析時又是否完全不可抽離背景呢? 近年對香港流行曲的評論(尤其對當紅的鏡仔),時常着重「咬字」,例如姜濤最新的《DUMMY》就獲多人稱讚咬字清晰聽得明歌詞。歌手追求發音清晰,固然對歌唱是有好處,但如以發音不清就批評歌曲又會不會太輕易抺殺了整個作品?世界音樂如此多元,不懂外語是否就要封閉自己不接觸其他地區的音樂?而就算我們這些外國人聽得懂外語歌詞,我們大概也不夠資格評論歌手咬字是否清晰標準吧。正如閱讀文字作品,讀者又會不會因為不明白其中幾個字的意思而認為作品不值一讀?又如果對作品的評語只是「用字淺顯易明」,除非是兒童書,不然作者也會啼笑皆非或覺得膚淺吧? 不求甚解,原意是要領會大意而不必着眼於字眼之意思,到今天則演變成不深入理解。了解相關背景,明白作品的細節,固然定品評和鑑賞甚有裨益,但現實中大家受時間和個人知識所限,往往只能對背景資料簡單了解、略知一二,只可看到事物較表面之處。然而,不完全理解創作背後的原意,也不一定妨礙受眾對其之欣賞和評價;不完全理解一地的歷史,也不全然妨礙人們對當地建築、規劃等表達讚賞或提出疑問。聽歌不要執着要求歌手字正腔圓,歌詞大意聽一兩遍一般都可明瞭大概,就算不想深究歌詞,旋律節奏等也可以是欣賞音樂的切入點。不過話說回來,無人機燈光表演,如果主辦者用心思考主題和舖排,再在字體設計下功夫,同時彰顯漢字的內涵和美學,豈非更妙?

正字正確

廣州最近掀起保衛廣東話運動,早前星期日明報副刊一篇 文章 ,已對此作了精譬分析,我也不必插嘴了。 不過我想談談另一個相連的問題,相信久不久也會困擾好些港人,就是怎樣才算「正確」、「正統」的書面語。 我們自少便被老師耳提面命,廣東話絕不可用於寫作(雖然現在大行其道,我在網上留言甚至偶而寫電郵都會用廣東話),粵語和港式詞彙應以書面語(以普通話為標準的用語)取代,於是把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜,諸如此類,從小已習慣,我也沒異議。 但香港實在很多獨有的或跟國內有差別的詞彙,應用於主要給香港人看的場合當然沒問題,但國內或其他華人就可能覺得蹩腳甚至不一定明白。同樣國內的好些用詞,港人看到也會覺得有點不自然甚至礙眼。我寫網誌不時都會掙扎,究竟用國內的用詞好(我想一般來說應該是比較「正規」的,而且近幾年跟來自國內的人多了交往,或多或少都學到一點他們的用語),還是香港的說法好(始終不少讀者都是香港人,用上國內的詞語他們或許會覺得有點怪怪的),所以我盡可能兩者兼用,港式說法通常以括號並列,但我有時祇會用國內的用詞,也有時祇用香港的說法,可見我也往往拿不定主意。 問題是應該怎樣劃界線,區別「正確」和「不正確」的書面用語呢?我們應該遵從甚麼的「標準」?比方說在香港,學生寫了一句「我的志願是太空人」,公認是沒有問題的,老師一般也不會勉強學生寫「我的志願是航天員」,好了,這樣便是承認了香港和國內的用語確有區別,但既然如此,為甚麼把該句寫成「我嘅志願係太空人」時,老師便一定不會容許?又或者為甚麼寫作時硬要把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜?這道界線是誰定的,定立時又有甚麼理據?香港可不像很多國家般,有一個高高在上的法定語文機構(例如法國的Académie française),又或有權威性的詞典(例如英國的牛津字典,和國內的辭海),對語文作出一定規範,難免令人寫作時感到無所適從,甚麼香港和粵語詞彙可以用於書面、哪些不可。 用語的取向,也涉及文化取態的問題,我像一般港人一樣也認同寫作時要用書面語,盡量跟隨普通話的「標準」,但不會全盤用國內的詞彙和行文,一來不習慣,二來不免總有種維護本土文化的潛意識,特別是香港和國內社會制度上和文化上始終有點隔閡,這種矛盾不一定輕易化解。 究竟甚麼才算是「標準」、「正確」的書面中文,我想大概沒有「標準答案」,往往靠個人的見識和學養才可作出定奪,但隨著香港跟國內交往越來越