Skip to main content

Barcelona dels carrers i de les plaças 巴塞羅那——街道及廣場篇

I never thought that it could become so cold in mid-September. Perhaps writing about my three days in Barcelona (from 2nd to 4th July) will help me feel some warmth again!

想不到九月中已天寒地凍,不如靠寫寫七月初在巴塞羅那的三天(7月2至4日)取取暖吧!


My Hong Kong friend at my research institute once told me something about his colleague from Barcelona. She has actually been offered a post in Madrid, but was somewhat hesitant because Madrid was, in her opinion, a completely different place which would not make her totally feel at home. I thought that must be an overstatement, but once I’ve been in Barcelona, I could finally appreciate why she would have such an opinion.

我在研究所的香港朋友告訴我,他有個來自巴塞羅那的同事,本來已在馬德里覓得新職,卻老不大想去,原因是環境不同,不大喜歡,而且要適應一番。當時心想,究竟是不是如此誇張?去過巴塞羅那,就終於明白那人為何有如此想法。


Barcelona is situated in the region of Catalonia (called Catalunya in the local language) which has retained its own language of Catalan (Català). It’s actually quite close to Spanish but differences are easy to spot. Catalan enjoys a status that many regional languages or dialects can only envy, as most of the signs in the streets, public notices and even announcements in the underground trains are only in Catalan!

巴塞羅那位處卡泰隆地區(Catalunya,英語稱作Catalonia),擁有自己的語言,跟西班牙語很相似卻仍有不少分別,街道的招牌、路牌及地鐵的廣播,差不多是清一色卡泰隆語(Català,英語稱為Catalan),世上不少地方語言,地位都難與其相比!

Want to learn Catalan? 想學卡泰隆語嗎?


As the two metropolises of Spain, Barcelona and Madrid are set apart by their different lay-outs and feels. While the capital can boast of its majesty and energy, Barcelona exudes its own character and has an added element of fun. Perhaps a strong local culture (like the Basque Country) and proximity to the sea have helped to shape the distinctive appeal of Barcelona.

同是大城市,巴塞羅那與馬德里的佈局和氣氛截然不同,馬德里有的是一國之都的氣魄和風格,而且充滿活力,巴塞羅那則自成一格,活力充沛之餘也有種活潑的氣氛,大概是受其濃厚的地方文化(就正如巴斯克地區)及臨海的地理環境影響吧。



Partying hard and loud on an open-top bus
開蓬巴士上的開心派對






This place is till pretty hot well into the evening!
巴塞羅那入夜後的活力仍未冷卻!








Las Ramblas is a street (or more correctly, a successive series of streets) that all tourists won’t miss. It starts at the eastern end with the column of Mirador de Colom (Columbus monument) that commemorates the discovery of American by Columbus in 1492. This very tall column, with the statue of Columbus atop, is an eye-catching landmark particularly by the sea.

市內一條遊客必到大街為名Las Ramblas,該街的東端是一座名為Mirador de Colom的塔,紀念哥倫布在1492年發現新大陸,矗立在海傍,哥倫布人像高高在上,是個搶眼的地標。













Left: Duana de Barcelona (Barcelona Customs Office)
左:巴塞羅那海關大廈






In the middle of the road of Las Ramblas is a pedestrian zone where many buskers and newspaper kiosks are stationed, and on my last day in Barcelona there was also a craft market. At the other end of Las Ramblas I came across three pet shops, and how unexpected I was to see the feathered creatures being sold as pets! Live birds being sold in public places is such a rare sight across almost anywhere in Europe, and even in places like Hong Kong it will soon be relegated to history.

Las Ramblas中央是寬闊的步行區,平時五步一賣藝者,十步一報紙檔,人頭湧湧,我在巴塞羅那的最後一天還擺賣手工藝,該街的另一個盡頭,有三家寵物店, 令我意想不到的,是那些店竟有不少禽鳥出售,包括小雞、小鴨,在公眾地方賣活禽鳥,莫說在歐洲絕無僅有,在香港遲早也變成歷史!



















Those pet shops are not far from the enormous Plaça de Catalunya (Catalonia Square). Farther to the north there is the boulevard called Passeig de Gràcia which is not only a popular shopping street but also home to two of the many famous buildings designed by the architect Gaudí. It’s worth talking about his masterpieces in a separate blog post.

離那些寵物店不遠的便是敞大的卡泰隆廣場(Plaça de Catalunya),再往北走便轉到另一條大街Passeig de Gràcia,兩旁不祇商店林立,也豎立了兩幢由名建築師高廸(Gaudí)設計的大廈,另文再詳談。











Left: the underground railway exit at Plaça de Catalunya
左:卡泰隆廣場地鐵站出口





A square that can rival the spaciousness and grandeur of Plaça de Catalunya is the one adjoining the Arc de Triomf (Arch of Triumph), without the masses of people that pass through Plaça de Catalunya at any time. At the end of that square lies the Parc de la Ciutadella (Citadel Park) that hosted the World Expo of 1888. The Arc de Triomf was built in time as the official main entrance to the Expo.

另一個氣派上配得上卡泰隆廣場的,要算是凱旋門(Arc de Triomf)及相連的廣場,但遊人明顯少得多。廣場的未端是堡壘公園(Parc de la Ciutadella),1888年曾是世界博覽會的場地,凱旋門是為該世界博覽會而建,作為會場的主要入口。











Arc de Triomf
凱旋門
















Parc de la Ciutadella 堡壘公園



The walk from Las Ramblas to Arc de Triomf took me through numerous side streets and several open squares, as well as the main Cathedral of Barcelona. While its side entrance was rather nondescript, the cathedral was rather distinctive for its pleasant small courtyard before entering the cathedral itself, as well as for its rooftop which was open to the public as a viewing point for the city.

從Las Ramblas到凱旋門,中間經過無數小街和好幾個廣場,還有巴塞羅那大教堂(Catedral),我從側門進內參觀,入口其貌不揚,但踏入教堂前先要經過一個挺精緻的小庭園,而教堂的屋背是對外開放,遊人可乘升降機到那裡從高瀏覽附近的景色。











Plaça Reial
皇家廣場


















Sant Server Palau de Generalitat (Palace of the Autonomous Government of Catalonia)
卡泰隆自治政府大樓










The Cathedral (left) with its main entrance facing Plaça Nova (right)
大教堂(左)及正門對開的Nova廣場(右)



The side entrance that would have been easily missed!
毫不起眼的側門


















The courtyard inside the Cathedral (right: a fountain called Font de Sant Jordi)
大教堂的小花園(右圖是Sant Jordi噴水池)















The interior of the Cathedral
大教堂內部





From the rooftop of the Cathedral
大教堂屋背的風光






The side streets and little alleys in that area formed an intricate network that rendered maps rather useless. It was actually better to explore the city without relying on a map as my familiarity with Barcelona grew. Indeed it was a lot more relaxing without having to worry about directions all the time, and as my exploration went on, I felt more and more at ease to the extent that it felt like home to me! The homely atmosphere was really pervasive, carried through by a series of open squares that opened up in front of my eyes one after the other as I meandered through the streets. The squares were filled with people who were gathering to relax, have a chat or enjoy a sip, and were inviting passers-by to slow down, take a breather and savour what was on offer in this kind of surroundings. Isn’t it like a home where people can make a retreat from the busy world outside and spend time with the loved ones?

那一帶的小街不祇多,而且錯縱複雜,就算有地圖也不管用,後來對巴塞羅那逐漸熟悉後,便索性隨心所欲到處亂逛,不祇更輕鬆自在,也令身處異地的我,突然有種舒適、回到家的感覺:隨意每拐一個街角,便會不經意來到一個又一個的廣場,不少人都會在歇腳、聊天或喝咖啡,開揚的環境,襯托着悠閒的氣氛,彷彿要留住各人的步伐,叫大家別要匆匆忙忙,祇顧不停上路,而忘記停下來充充電,細味身邊的一切,就正如家是個讓人忙了一天後歇歇息、聚天倫的地方一樣。



One of the many little narrow streets in the La Ribera district
La Ribera區內眾多小道之一
















Plaça
de l'Acadèmia 學院廣場



A leafy square at Carrer del Petons, just around the corner from Plaça de l'Acadèmia
學院廣場附近Carrer del Petons,綠樹成蔭的廣場







Plaça del Fossar de les Moreres, with a monument to commemorate the Siege of Barcelona (1713 - 1714)
Fossar de les Moreres廣場,紀念1713至1714年間巴塞羅那被圍困





Basilicia Santa Maria del Mar (The Church of Saint Mary by the Sea) opposite to the Plaça del Fossar de les Moreres
Fossar de les Moreres廣場對面的海上聖瑪利亞教堂(我不禁想,是不是西人的天后廟?)



Some of the residences along the side streets were more than just a place to live. The corridors were actually little alleys that connected one street to another, with their own little shops and food stalls. What a neighbourly setting it was for people to meet and enjoy some time together. Barcelona is really blessed with squares and laneways like those which help to cement neighbourhoods and maintain a sense of belonging among its people.

沿着小街的民居,有些原來內有乾坤,走進去仍是小巷一條,旁邊也有一兩家小商店或小食店,看來不祇是醫肚子的地方那麼簡單,也供街坊鄰里聚面、維繫感情,這些散佈民居之間的小巷和各大小廣場,引來這麼多人落腳、聚集,正好彰現巴塞羅那的社區凝聚力。












The Passatge de les Manufactures (left), a little alley tucked inside one of the buildings at Carrer de Sant Pere Mès Alt (right)
位於Carrer de Sant Pere Mès Alt街(右)一幢大廈內的Passatge de les Manufactures小巷(左)












Barcelona has many other interesting alleys like Passatge de la Pau (left) and Passatge Sert (right)
巴塞羅那小巷眾多,各有風格,如Passatge de la Pau(左)和Passatge Sert(右)



An international city that is not shy of its thriving local culture, a metropolis that hasn’t forgotten its local communities, Barcelona seems to have the right blend of these attributes that help to make itself attractive in a distinctive way. This shop sign can very well sum up Barcelona: ‘No es lo mismo / it’s not the same’ – as anyone else.

巴塞羅那雖是大都市,但仍保留着一股社區氣息,國際化之餘仍不忘向人展現固有的文化,交集起來,形成自己一種獨特的氣質,就正如這個商店門牌寫的:「就是不一樣」!

Comments

Unknown said…
九月就好凍啦
我們這裡也未覺温暖
天氣常变
今天覺得有點凍
看相片內
各處街道都很乾淨
那裡的公民教育不錯不錯

Popular posts from this blog

不求甚解,可以嗎?

端午節在尖沙咀海傍的無人機燈光表演,事後廣受網民嘲笑俗氣、像長輩圖等,屈原「現身」在空中飄更讓我覺得是其於死忌顯靈,很是詭異。 我在臉書轉發了ReNews的報導,想不到有人會點讚,而且是一個多年沒見的外國人,我納悶她究竟喜歡什麼、知否「到底發生什麼事」,只可猜想是她從沒見過用無人機砌出漢字,欣賞此藝術吧。 我在港大工作時,有國內同事有次跟我路過英皇書院時,對我說他對那學校沒好感,因為他討厭楊受成。我聽了先是心中有點驚訝,但沒流露出來,並笑着解釋道:英皇是英國國皇的意思,英文叫King's College,是政府辦學,跟楊受成的英皇集團一點關係也沒有!那同事沒意會背後的殖民史,更與搞娛樂事業的公司穿鑿附會,不過不應嘲笑,我反而覺得其不把自己困於校園、留意附近社區之精神可嘉(很多港人一向覺得國內人來港後往往不踏出自己人的小圈子呢)。 文藝創作和社會/社區的形成,固然與背後的歷史和文化息息相關,但評析時又是否完全不可抽離背景呢? 近年對香港流行曲的評論(尤其對當紅的鏡仔),時常着重「咬字」,例如姜濤最新的《DUMMY》就獲多人稱讚咬字清晰聽得明歌詞。歌手追求發音清晰,固然對歌唱是有好處,但如以發音不清就批評歌曲又會不會太輕易抺殺了整個作品?世界音樂如此多元,不懂外語是否就要封閉自己不接觸其他地區的音樂?而就算我們這些外國人聽得懂外語歌詞,我們大概也不夠資格評論歌手咬字是否清晰標準吧。正如閱讀文字作品,讀者又會不會因為不明白其中幾個字的意思而認為作品不值一讀?又如果對作品的評語只是「用字淺顯易明」,除非是兒童書,不然作者也會啼笑皆非或覺得膚淺吧? 不求甚解,原意是要領會大意而不必着眼於字眼之意思,到今天則演變成不深入理解。了解相關背景,明白作品的細節,固然定品評和鑑賞甚有裨益,但現實中大家受時間和個人知識所限,往往只能對背景資料簡單了解、略知一二,只可看到事物較表面之處。然而,不完全理解創作背後的原意,也不一定妨礙受眾對其之欣賞和評價;不完全理解一地的歷史,也不全然妨礙人們對當地建築、規劃等表達讚賞或提出疑問。聽歌不要執着要求歌手字正腔圓,歌詞大意聽一兩遍一般都可明瞭大概,就算不想深究歌詞,旋律節奏等也可以是欣賞音樂的切入點。不過話說回來,無人機燈光表演,如果主辦者用心思考主題和舖排,再在字體設計下功夫,同時彰顯漢字的內涵和美學,豈非更妙?

Newborn, new experiences (1) 新生兒,新體會(1)

The birth of our daughter at the end of September marks a new chapter and brings about new life experiences for me and my wife. 小女9月底出生,為我和太太揭開人生新一章,也帶來新的體驗。 Mum was admitted to a nearby public hospital for the birth. The maternity ward is a lifely and buzzling place, subdivided into many rooms occupied by up to 4 mums and their babies at a time. Visiting hours is from 08:00 to 20:00, and up to one person can visit at one time and two different people each day. These limitations are part of the hospital's covid policies when the rest of the society has moved on as if nothing had happened - apparently there used to be no limit to visitations before covid, so a dad could in fact accompany the mum and baby all night long. One long-lasting impression from the maternity ward was the symphony of baby cries in which all babies took their turns to join including mine. Calming down the baby was almost impossible in this ambience and was very tough on mum especially when she was battling her

正字正確

廣州最近掀起保衛廣東話運動,早前星期日明報副刊一篇 文章 ,已對此作了精譬分析,我也不必插嘴了。 不過我想談談另一個相連的問題,相信久不久也會困擾好些港人,就是怎樣才算「正確」、「正統」的書面語。 我們自少便被老師耳提面命,廣東話絕不可用於寫作(雖然現在大行其道,我在網上留言甚至偶而寫電郵都會用廣東話),粵語和港式詞彙應以書面語(以普通話為標準的用語)取代,於是把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜,諸如此類,從小已習慣,我也沒異議。 但香港實在很多獨有的或跟國內有差別的詞彙,應用於主要給香港人看的場合當然沒問題,但國內或其他華人就可能覺得蹩腳甚至不一定明白。同樣國內的好些用詞,港人看到也會覺得有點不自然甚至礙眼。我寫網誌不時都會掙扎,究竟用國內的用詞好(我想一般來說應該是比較「正規」的,而且近幾年跟來自國內的人多了交往,或多或少都學到一點他們的用語),還是香港的說法好(始終不少讀者都是香港人,用上國內的詞語他們或許會覺得有點怪怪的),所以我盡可能兩者兼用,港式說法通常以括號並列,但我有時祇會用國內的用詞,也有時祇用香港的說法,可見我也往往拿不定主意。 問題是應該怎樣劃界線,區別「正確」和「不正確」的書面用語呢?我們應該遵從甚麼的「標準」?比方說在香港,學生寫了一句「我的志願是太空人」,公認是沒有問題的,老師一般也不會勉強學生寫「我的志願是航天員」,好了,這樣便是承認了香港和國內的用語確有區別,但既然如此,為甚麼把該句寫成「我嘅志願係太空人」時,老師便一定不會容許?又或者為甚麼寫作時硬要把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜?這道界線是誰定的,定立時又有甚麼理據?香港可不像很多國家般,有一個高高在上的法定語文機構(例如法國的Académie française),又或有權威性的詞典(例如英國的牛津字典,和國內的辭海),對語文作出一定規範,難免令人寫作時感到無所適從,甚麼香港和粵語詞彙可以用於書面、哪些不可。 用語的取向,也涉及文化取態的問題,我像一般港人一樣也認同寫作時要用書面語,盡量跟隨普通話的「標準」,但不會全盤用國內的詞彙和行文,一來不習慣,二來不免總有種維護本土文化的潛意識,特別是香港和國內社會制度上和文化上始終有點隔閡,這種矛盾不一定輕易化解。 究竟甚麼才算是「標準」、「正確」的書面中文,我想大概沒有「標準答案」,往往靠個人的見識和學養才可作出定奪,但隨著香港跟國內交往越來越