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Going East in Easter (2) - Dubrovnik 復活節東征(2)—— 杜布羅夫尼克

From Zagreb, we embarked on the next part of our blitz through Croatia with an overnight bus to the Southern seaside city of Dubrovnik. As we were picked up to the Old Town from the bus terminus, we were already deeply impressed by the façade of stone wall and fortress, and we couldn't wait to see what it's all about.

在薩格勒布玩了第一天後,當晚馬不停蹄,乘過夜客車出發往克羅地亞南部海濱城市杜布羅夫尼克(Dubrovnik),抵達當地的客車站後由旅店老闆載我們一程往舊城區,臨進舊城時,已被矗立的石城牆和堡壘深深吸引,恨不得馬上下車看個究竟。



Dubrovnik must have been very well guarded and protected throughout history. The town itself was surrounded by two layers of very solid stone walls, while fortresses were erected at various points to overlook the town or the nearby waters. The meticulous defence planning and fortifications of the structures could not escape the eyes and minds of anyone even on a casual walk and look through the places.

杜布羅夫尼克昔時想必是牢不可破之城,全城由兩層堅固的石城牆重重包圍,沿着城牆及離城不遠處又處置多座堡壘,居高臨下監察及保衛全城和鄰近水域,遊畢全城後不得不讚嘆這些設施的建築精良兼穩固,佈陣也顯然便於防衛。


We started off at a leisurely pace through the meshwork of alleys through the Old Town, and found our way out of the north-eastern city gate where there was a small sheltered port (Stara Luka), under the guard of Fortress Revelin. From there we moved up a gear and walked uphill for the view of the entire Old Town and its fortresses. The sea of red roofs stood out against the colour of the stones and the rainy skies.

我們三人先在舊城區縱橫的小巷逛逛,取經東北隅的城門出城,即可看到舊城的小避風港(Stara Luka),古時應該由Revelin炮台守衛該港。我們從那裡上山,從高處遠眺整個舊城區及其一個個的堡壘,舊城的房屋全用紅屋瓦,在一片土黃的石牆中和陰沉的天色中份外突出。












The little lanes within the residential area 民居中的小巷




Shops with their distinctive lamps
商戶門外都掛了獨特的燈

















The two main streets of the Old Town - Pred Dvorom (left) and Placa-Stradun (right)
舊城區兩條大道——Pred Dvorom(左)及Placa-Stradun (右)



A peek into the Rector's Palace (Knežev Dvor)
教區區長宮一瞥


















The Sponza Palace (Palača Sponza), with a memorial for the Yugoslavian civil war in the early 1990s
Sponza宮,內有紀念1990年代初南斯拉夫內戰陣亡者的紀念館












The city gate at the north-eastern corner of the Old Town
舊城區東北隅的城門











The port of Stara Luka, under the guard of Revelin Fortress
Stara Luka港,由Revelin炮台守衛






Dubrovnik Old Town from the hills
從高處遠望杜布羅夫尼克







The fortresses along one section of the city wall
其中一段城牆的堡壘








We then walked to the other side of the Old Town and climbed up Fortress Lovrijenac that provided another vantage point for the town. We were left with no doubt as to the original function of the fortress when we saw piles of stone canons stacked behind the walls. Try those canons for shot puts if you can!

我們接着走到舊城的另一邊,登上Lovrijenac堡壘,從另一角度瞭望杜布羅夫尼克舊城。從堡壘的設計和建築,我們不難察覺其原來的功能,至今堡壘不少地方仍堆了重甸甸的石砲球,不是壯士也不能抬得起!



Fortress Lovrijenac on top of a little headland
屹立在小岬上的Lovrijenac堡壘







Dubrovnik from the Fortress (see also the video below)
從堡壘回望杜布羅夫尼克舊城(亦可看以下短片)




















Different parts of the Fortress 堡壘內部












Ready to fire, any time! 一切就緒,準備發炮!


After lunch we went for a walk on the stone walls surrounding the town. Although there was something similar in Rothenburg ob der Tauber back in Germany, this walk was more considerably more interesting because the terrain was uneven and the walkway actually ran for the whole parameter of the town (the one in Rothenburg was only half). From the wall, we could get a full appreciation of the relief of the town which resembles a shallow boat with steep ascends at the north end, where the main fortress of the stone wall (Fort Minčeta) was located, and the south end towards the sea.

午飯後我們沿着石牆上的通道繞城一周,雖說兩個月前在德國的羅騰堡也有在城牆上走走,但這裡的石牆比起來就更引人,一來地勢有高低起伏,二則通道是全城牆都有,不像羅騰堡祇得一半。從城牆上望到的舊城區,有點像一隻淺的長形碟,但在北面的斜坡比較陡,城牆的堡壘正位於城牆的北段,包括最大的Minčeta堡壘,南段則面海。













Placa-Stradun and the Onofrio's Fountain (Velika Onofrijeva Fontana) at the start of Placa
Placa-Stradun及其開端的Onofrio噴泉





The wall and cliff form a formidable obstacle to any invader.
懸崖峭壁加上城牆,入侵休想矣!







Fortress Lovrijenac from the city wall
從城牆回望Lovrijenac堡壘







The southern section of the city wall
城牆的南段
















Residences behind the city wall, including a training ground for mountaineering (right)!
城牆後的民居和獨木橋(右)













Where's this cool place for cold drinks? The sign in the left photo is pointing you to the right place!
借問酒家何處有?(左)木牌遙指懸崖邊!(右)













The saints keeping tabs on the sea
守衛大海,全賴你們




The excavation of a former church and nunnery
一所前教堂和女修道院的遺址
















The northern section of the city wall, including Fort Minčeta (right)
城牆的北段,其中有Minčeta堡壘




One of the steep lanes leading to the northen city walls
城牆北段有好幾條類似的陡斜小巷

















Dubrovnik Old Town, looking from east to west
從東至西的杜布羅夫尼克舊城全貌







When we passed by the north-eastern gate, we could smell some fresh and cooked seafood coming from a restaurant by the sea. The smell was rather memorable and we decided to go there for our dinner. We trusted that the smell would be an indicator of the quality of the food, and we've indeed made a good choice!

在石牆上經過東北隅的城門時,一陣陣新鮮海鮮和海鮮菜式的味道隨風飄來,很是誘人,我們心想,如此香味,食物水準該不錯吧,便認定在那裡吃晚飯,果然沒令我們失望!












Placa at night 入夜後的Placa

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