Skip to main content

Historical Berlin (2) - The Different Eras 歷史與柏林(2):不同年代的變遷

After visiting the museums, my friends and I could not wait to see more history on the streets! My friends and I spent Monday 14th August 2006 wandering through the government district, pausing at Brandenburg Gate, visiting the World War II memorials (Jewish memorial and Führerbunker) before strolling along Unter den Linden up to Lustgarten. Then we took a boat ride along the river Spree and went up to the TV tower at the end of the day to get a good perspective of the whole city.

Berlin witnessed the come and go of the different eras. It used to be the capital city of the Prussian Empire, and the monarchs chose to leave their marks through the works along the central thoroughfare of Berlin, Unter den Linden (literally, under the lime trees). The modern-day Unter den Linden is bound in the east by the Lustgarten (Pleasure Garden) surrounded by the Museuminsel (Museum Island) and the Berliner Dom (Berlin Dome Church). The Prussian monarchs funded the museum collections and the expansion of the Berliner Dom, which is not only a place of worship but also contains a crypt at the basement for the royal family. Along the way to the west, we reached Bebelplatz where the State Opera and St. Hedwig’s Cathedral were located. Opposite to Bebelplatz was Humboldt University which produced many Nobel Laureates (but not the last 40 years!) and Berlin State Library. At the western end of the road was Pariser Platz (Square of Paris) and the Brandenburg Gate. The Gate used to mark the entry (and exit) point of Berlin during the Prussian days, but it is probably more famous as a symbol of a divided Germany after World War II.

The communists left a lasting architectural landscape in Berlin. Many residential buildings of that era were still standing in the eastern part of the city, in the form of rather dull looking high-rise buildings of 10 storeys or so. The TV tower at Alexanderplatz (Alexander Square) was meant to display the technological prowess of East Germany, and now it provides a good vantage point of the city. Berlin resumed its status as a capital city of a re-united Germany some years after the collapse of the communists. As one of the many symbols of unity, the two of new government buildings on opposite banks of river Spree (the section of Spree in today’s government district once separated East and West Berlin) are joined by a bridge. The government district is also home to the German Federal Parliament (the one with a glass dome at the top) and the Chancellor’s residence. Unfortunately, my friend and I did not enter the parliament building because we were scared by the long queue!

There is no escape from the memories of World War II in Berlin. But only more recently are the reminders so much starker with the completion of the Jewish memorial (which consists of a series of pillars, supposedly representing tombstones of the victims), the marking of the bunker (Führerbunker) where Hitler spent his last days, and the construction of the brand-new Sony Center. Such spanking new buildings actually speak of how much the War had destroyed the old Berlin, and architects around the world are keen to leave their impressions in this historical city which is also a big construction site!


參觀過博物館後,我和朋友當然要看柏林其他的歷史。8月14日那天,我們先到國會所在的政府區逛逛,然後瀏覽勃蘭登堡門、紀念二次大戰的猶太死難者紀念廣場及希特勒度過最後日子的地窖,再取道至菩提樹下大街,一直走到該街未端的歡樂花園,在那裡遊船河,遊罷便登上亞歷山大廣場的電視塔,全方位遊覽柏林。

柏林見證了不少歷史變遷,以前曾是普魯斯帝國之首都,歷任帝王都在市內的要道——菩提樹下大街(Unter den Linden)大興土林,今時今日的菩提樹下大街,東起歡樂花園(Lustgarten),由博物館島及柏林圓頂教堂(Berliner Dom)所包圍。現時博物館的收藏品,及圓頂教堂的擴建,皆有賴歷任帝王斥資。圓頂教堂不單祇是一座教堂,地庫還是皇室墓陵。從那裡向西行,不久便到比貝爾廣場(Bebelplatz),為國家歌劇院及聖赫德維希大教堂(Sankt-Hedwigskathedrale)所在地,對面有洪堡大學(Humboldt University)——六十年代及以前諾貝爾獎得主輩出——和國立圖書館。菩提樹下大街的最西端,就是巴黎廣場(Pariser platz)和勃蘭登堡門。勃蘭登堡門在普魯斯時代是進出柏林的城門之一,也是後來東、西德分隔的象徵,相信大家對後者不會太陌生吧。

前東德時代的痕跡,最顯而易見的就是當年建成的,那些大概十層高、設計單調的民居,而前東德的「代表作」,要算是座落於亞歷山大廣場(Alexanderplatz)的電視塔,當時興建之目的是要顯示其科技實力,時至今日電視塔則是俯瞰柏林的最佳地點。前東德政權倒台後數年,柏林恢復其首都地位,現時的政府區,當年被中間的史比利河(Spree)分隔成東、西柏林兩部分,在河兩畔新建的兩座政府大廈,由一座橋相連,其統一復合之意不言而喻。政府區也是德國國會及總理宮邸所在地,國會頂部乃一玻璃圓頂,在外面等進內長長的人龍,把我們參觀的念頭打消了。

柏林也有不少二次大戰的遺跡,而最新的幾個紀念設施,還令人對這段歷史勾起更鮮明的回憶,包括豎立了一排排象徵墓碑的柱子的猶太死難者紀念廣場,希特勒臨終前入住的地窖Führerbunker的標記牌,及簇新的索尼中心(Sony Center),新建築物背後,是一股建築熱,當年二次大戰帶來的破壞和廢墟,被今日的建築師和設計師看中,所以有人說,現在的柏林,就是個大建築地盤(工地)!


The Government District 政府區











Different views of the German Parliament: the back from afar (top left), a closer view of the back (top right) and the front entrance (left)
國會背面遠觀(左上)、背面近觀(右上)及正面(左)












The two government buildings near Parliament now linked by a bridge over the river Spree, viz. Paul Löbe House and Marie-Elisabeth Lüders House (the building on the left and right, respectively, in both photos). They are named after famous politicians of Germany.
國會附近的兩幢政府大廈,由兩名著名的議員Löbe及Lüders命名,現有一道橋橫跨史比利河的橋相連。



In memory of those who lost their lives while fleeing East Germany across the Spree
紀念由東德逃亡西德時命喪史比利河之亡魂






The German Basic Law (the constitution) inscribed on glass walls
寫在玻璃牆上的德國基本法(憲法)







The residence of German Chancellor
德國總理宮邸







Brandenburg Gate and surrounds 勃蘭登堡門及附近










The Brandenburg Gate (left) and the Strasse des 17 Juni outside the Gate (right)
勃蘭登堡門(左)及門外的六月十七大道(右)












Memorial to the murdered Jews of Europe 猶太死難者紀念廣場



The last days of Hitler
希特勒最後的日子
















The Sony Center 索尼中心


Berliner Dom 柏林圓頂教堂


























Unter den Linden 菩提樹下大街












State library (left) and the statue of Frederich the Great of Prussia outdie (right)
國立圖書館(左)及外面的普魯斯腓特烈大帝之人像(右)



St. Hedwig's Cathedral
聖赫德維希大教堂







Views along river Spree 沿史比利河景色












Left: St. Nicholas' Church; Right: History side by side - the Berlin City Library, the former East German Parliament (Palast der Republik, now being demolished) and Berliner Dom from left to right
左:聖尼古教堂、右:新舊交替中,從左至右為柏林市立圖書館、前東德國會(共和國宮,現正拆毀)及柏林圓頂教堂










Leisure by the river 偷得浮生半日閒



Mind your heads!
小心碰頭!



















Left: Bode Museum; Right: Berlin Central Station, opened in time for the World Cup
左:波德博物館、右:柏林火車總站,趕及在世界盃前啟用


Views from the TV Tower 從電視塔俯瞰柏林












The TV Tower was decorated like a football for the World Cup.
電視塔因應世界盃而裝飾成足球。












Frankfurter Allee, and a close up on the East German style buildings. The 'twin tower' is called Frankfurter Tor and can be seen in the top left picture when magnified.
法蘭克福大道,及該處的東德特色建築。那座「雙子塔」名為法蘭克福門,放大鳥瞰圖(左上)後亦可見。













The Government District and Unter den Linden (the straight road in the right picture)
政府區及菩提樹下大街(右圖中筆直的大街)

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Newborn, new experiences (1) 新生兒,新體會(1)

The birth of our daughter at the end of September marks a new chapter and brings about new life experiences for me and my wife. 小女9月底出生,為我和太太揭開人生新一章,也帶來新的體驗。 Mum was admitted to a nearby public hospital for the birth. The maternity ward is a lifely and buzzling place, subdivided into many rooms occupied by up to 4 mums and their babies at a time. Visiting hours is from 08:00 to 20:00, and up to one person can visit at one time and two different people each day. These limitations are part of the hospital's covid policies when the rest of the society has moved on as if nothing had happened - apparently there used to be no limit to visitations before covid, so a dad could in fact accompany the mum and baby all night long. One long-lasting impression from the maternity ward was the symphony of baby cries in which all babies took their turns to join including mine. Calming down the baby was almost impossible in this ambience and was very tough on mum especially when she was battling her

不求甚解,可以嗎?

端午節在尖沙咀海傍的無人機燈光表演,事後廣受網民嘲笑俗氣、像長輩圖等,屈原「現身」在空中飄更讓我覺得是其於死忌顯靈,很是詭異。 我在臉書轉發了ReNews的報導,想不到有人會點讚,而且是一個多年沒見的外國人,我納悶她究竟喜歡什麼、知否「到底發生什麼事」,只可猜想是她從沒見過用無人機砌出漢字,欣賞此藝術吧。 我在港大工作時,有國內同事有次跟我路過英皇書院時,對我說他對那學校沒好感,因為他討厭楊受成。我聽了先是心中有點驚訝,但沒流露出來,並笑着解釋道:英皇是英國國皇的意思,英文叫King's College,是政府辦學,跟楊受成的英皇集團一點關係也沒有!那同事沒意會背後的殖民史,更與搞娛樂事業的公司穿鑿附會,不過不應嘲笑,我反而覺得其不把自己困於校園、留意附近社區之精神可嘉(很多港人一向覺得國內人來港後往往不踏出自己人的小圈子呢)。 文藝創作和社會/社區的形成,固然與背後的歷史和文化息息相關,但評析時又是否完全不可抽離背景呢? 近年對香港流行曲的評論(尤其對當紅的鏡仔),時常着重「咬字」,例如姜濤最新的《DUMMY》就獲多人稱讚咬字清晰聽得明歌詞。歌手追求發音清晰,固然對歌唱是有好處,但如以發音不清就批評歌曲又會不會太輕易抺殺了整個作品?世界音樂如此多元,不懂外語是否就要封閉自己不接觸其他地區的音樂?而就算我們這些外國人聽得懂外語歌詞,我們大概也不夠資格評論歌手咬字是否清晰標準吧。正如閱讀文字作品,讀者又會不會因為不明白其中幾個字的意思而認為作品不值一讀?又如果對作品的評語只是「用字淺顯易明」,除非是兒童書,不然作者也會啼笑皆非或覺得膚淺吧? 不求甚解,原意是要領會大意而不必着眼於字眼之意思,到今天則演變成不深入理解。了解相關背景,明白作品的細節,固然定品評和鑑賞甚有裨益,但現實中大家受時間和個人知識所限,往往只能對背景資料簡單了解、略知一二,只可看到事物較表面之處。然而,不完全理解創作背後的原意,也不一定妨礙受眾對其之欣賞和評價;不完全理解一地的歷史,也不全然妨礙人們對當地建築、規劃等表達讚賞或提出疑問。聽歌不要執着要求歌手字正腔圓,歌詞大意聽一兩遍一般都可明瞭大概,就算不想深究歌詞,旋律節奏等也可以是欣賞音樂的切入點。不過話說回來,無人機燈光表演,如果主辦者用心思考主題和舖排,再在字體設計下功夫,同時彰顯漢字的內涵和美學,豈非更妙?

正字正確

廣州最近掀起保衛廣東話運動,早前星期日明報副刊一篇 文章 ,已對此作了精譬分析,我也不必插嘴了。 不過我想談談另一個相連的問題,相信久不久也會困擾好些港人,就是怎樣才算「正確」、「正統」的書面語。 我們自少便被老師耳提面命,廣東話絕不可用於寫作(雖然現在大行其道,我在網上留言甚至偶而寫電郵都會用廣東話),粵語和港式詞彙應以書面語(以普通話為標準的用語)取代,於是把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜,諸如此類,從小已習慣,我也沒異議。 但香港實在很多獨有的或跟國內有差別的詞彙,應用於主要給香港人看的場合當然沒問題,但國內或其他華人就可能覺得蹩腳甚至不一定明白。同樣國內的好些用詞,港人看到也會覺得有點不自然甚至礙眼。我寫網誌不時都會掙扎,究竟用國內的用詞好(我想一般來說應該是比較「正規」的,而且近幾年跟來自國內的人多了交往,或多或少都學到一點他們的用語),還是香港的說法好(始終不少讀者都是香港人,用上國內的詞語他們或許會覺得有點怪怪的),所以我盡可能兩者兼用,港式說法通常以括號並列,但我有時祇會用國內的用詞,也有時祇用香港的說法,可見我也往往拿不定主意。 問題是應該怎樣劃界線,區別「正確」和「不正確」的書面用語呢?我們應該遵從甚麼的「標準」?比方說在香港,學生寫了一句「我的志願是太空人」,公認是沒有問題的,老師一般也不會勉強學生寫「我的志願是航天員」,好了,這樣便是承認了香港和國內的用語確有區別,但既然如此,為甚麼把該句寫成「我嘅志願係太空人」時,老師便一定不會容許?又或者為甚麼寫作時硬要把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜?這道界線是誰定的,定立時又有甚麼理據?香港可不像很多國家般,有一個高高在上的法定語文機構(例如法國的Académie française),又或有權威性的詞典(例如英國的牛津字典,和國內的辭海),對語文作出一定規範,難免令人寫作時感到無所適從,甚麼香港和粵語詞彙可以用於書面、哪些不可。 用語的取向,也涉及文化取態的問題,我像一般港人一樣也認同寫作時要用書面語,盡量跟隨普通話的「標準」,但不會全盤用國內的詞彙和行文,一來不習慣,二來不免總有種維護本土文化的潛意識,特別是香港和國內社會制度上和文化上始終有點隔閡,這種矛盾不一定輕易化解。 究竟甚麼才算是「標準」、「正確」的書面中文,我想大概沒有「標準答案」,往往靠個人的見識和學養才可作出定奪,但隨著香港跟國內交往越來越