Was sagst du? 樣樣都德

Searching for Macau in Europe 西方的澳門

2011-12-26T16:06:00.000+11:00

After spending time in Cologne and Düsseldorf, it was time for 2 weeks of work in my old lab in Munich. Time flew by really quickly and soon I was on my way to Lisbon for 4 days of holiday. I chose Lisbon because I wanted to visit an old friend whom I haven’t seen for more than 2 years and who seems to keep drifting about in the world. The other reason was to see for myself how similar Lisbon is to Macau, a former colony of Portugal.
遊過科隆和杜塞爾多夫後，又回到慕尼黑老地方公幹做實驗，兩星期時間過得真快，之後便到葡萄牙里斯本遊玩四天。我到里斯本的原因，一來是為了探一個兩年多沒見、四處飄泊的朋友，二來很想探究一下澳門和里斯本有多相似。

Macau is famed for its colonial-era flair and it is indeed possible to find some similar architecture and streetscape in Lisbon. However, the differences are so much greater that, one day when I asked a waiter who actually travels to Hong Kong and Macau every year the question how similar it is between Macau and Lisbon, he said not at all!
常言道澳門保留了很多殖民地的歷史色彩，澳門倒真的有一兩分像里斯本，但很多方面分別就大了，我在里斯本有天吃午飯時跟一個侍應閒聊，他每年都到香港和澳門一次學功夫，我問他澳門像不像里斯本，他說一點也不像！

Lisbon is far larger than Macau with so much more open space thanks to its many parks and squares, very fitting for a capital city. Starting from the banks of Rio Tejo (Tagus River), the first of the many open spaces is the Praça do Comércio (Commercial Square). It is also known as the Terreiro do Paço (Palace Square) as it used to be surrounded by the Paço da Ribeira (Palace of the River) up to the Lisbon Earthquake in 1755. The square would have enabled an unobstructed view of the surroundings including the opposite side of the Tagus River, and been appropriate for the function and style of the former palace.
里斯本的面積遠比澳門大，廣場和公園既多又敞大，很有首都的氣勢，而且令城市顯得開揚，尤其是臨近特茹河畔（Rio Tejo，英語稱Tagus River）的商業廣場（Praça do Comércio），前稱皇宮廣場（Terreiro do Paço），在1755年里斯本大地震前，圍繞廣場的是里韋拉皇宮（Paço da Ribeira，意為河之宮），站在廣場中央遙望對岸，視野瞭闊無阻，實在配合皇宮的氣派和格局。

Praça do Comércio, day and night 商業廣場的日景和夜景

Continuing the way through the arch (Arco da Rua Augusta) and the old town area to the north of Praça do Comércio, one would come to the Praça de Dom Pedro IV (King Pedro IV Square) . Farther up north at the end of the Avenida da Liberdade (Liberty Avenue) is the Parque Eduardo VII (Edward VII Park, named after the visiting British monarch). The top of this sloped park commands the view of the entire Lisbon city centre and Tagus River.
穿過廣場北面的拱門（Arco da Rua Augusta），經過舊城區，來到佩德羅四世廣場（Praça de Dom Pedro IV），再一直沿自由大道（Avenida da Liberdade）往北走到盡頭，便是愛德華七世公園（Parque Eduardo VII），沿著園內的斜坡走到最頂，回頭一望，里斯本市中心和特茹河一覽無遺。

Arco da Rua Augusta and the old town 廣場北面的Rua Augusta拱門及舊城區

Praça de Dom Pedro IV and the statue of King Pedro IV 佩德羅四世廣場及其紀念碑

Teatro Nacional de Maria II at the northern end of Praça de Dom Pedro IV

佩德羅四世廣場北端的瑪利亞二世國家劇院

Praça dos Restauradores (Restoration Square, left) at the southern end of Avenida da Liberdade (right)

光復廣場（左），位於自由大道最南端（右）

Praça do Marquês de Pombal (Marquis de Pombal Square) and the Parque Eduardo VII, looking in both directions

龐巴爾侯爵廣場及愛德華七世公園

To the left (west) of the Praça de Dom Pedro IV, there is a path (Calçada do Duque) which is a series of steps leading uphill from the Central de Rossio railway station past a row of small shops and restaurants. The path ends at the Largo Trinidade Coelho square. Its location and layout, together with the myriad of narrow and step laneways criss-crossing the 3- or 4-storey residences, did remind me of the Largo de Santo Agostinho in Macau. A bit farther on there is a small park and viewing point (Miradouro de Saõ Pedro da Alcântara) where the view opens up to the Castelo de Saõ Jorge on the other side of the city centre.
在佩德羅四世廣場往左拐，經過羅西奧火車站（Central de Rossio），取道蜿蜒的樓梯路Calçada do Duque上山，途經一列小商店和餐廳走到盡頭，便是Trinidade Coelho廣場（Largo Trinidade Coelho），廣場的地理位置和格局，再加上附近很多又窄又斜的街道穿插於矮矮的樓房之間，倒令我想起澳門崗頂前地。再往過一點走，便來到一個小公園暨觀景臺（Miradouro de Saõ Pedro da Alcântara），遙望舊城區另一邊的聖若熱城堡（Castelo de Saõ Jorge）。

Rossio railway station and the Calçada do Duque 羅西奧火車站及山上的Calçada do Duque樓梯路

Largo Trinidade Coelho

Trinidade Coelho廣場

Miradourode Saõ Pedro da Alcântara (left) and the funicular (right) connecting the park to Avenida da Liberdade down the hill

Miradourode Saõ Pedro da Alcântara（左）及連接公園至山下自由大道的電車（右）

The narrow streets in the neighbourhood 區內狹窄的街道

The Castelo is visible from all over the city and is built on a hill which has been inhabited since a few centuries BC. The Castelo comprises a fortress and, earlier in history, a palace. The fortress was first erected by the invading Moorish people in the 11th century as a military post. The palace was built originally in the 13th century after the Portuguese recaptured Lisbon, but following a few earthquakes and moving the royal residence to the palace by Tagus River, the palace fell into disrepair and eventually only its ruins were left behind. In contrast, the fortress is still standing largely intact and it is possible to walk along the labyrinth of parapets connecting the watch towers. The terrace of the fortress and the watch towers are some of the best vantage points for both sides of the Tagus River, so it was little wonder that the site was chosen for building the castle. While the views from the castle were nice, the full force of the wind felt there was not!
聖若熱城堡從市區無論哪裡舉頭即見，附近一帶山頭，早在公元前幾個世紀已有人定居，城堡包括堡壘和昔日的皇宮，堡壘先由摩爾人於11世紀興建，作為軍事要塞，待葡萄牙人重新佔據里斯本後，皇宮便於13世紀興建，但後來皇宮遷到特茹河畔，再經歷幾場大地震後，皇宮日漸失修，今時今日祇剩下遺址一個，堡壘則大致保持完好。各瞭望塔之間有小路連接，有如個小迷宮，堡壘幾個瞭望塔和城堡的瞭望平臺都是俯瞰里斯本市區和特茹河對岸的上佳地點，怪不得當年會挑選此地建城堡了，不過由於毫無遮擋，那裡風勢也特別強勁！

The terrace of the castle

城堡的瞭望臺

The panoramic views from the terrace 瞭望臺一望無際的景色

The peacock and peahen stationed permanently at the castle 長駐在城堡的孔雀

The entrance to the fortress 堡壘出入口

One of the parapets (left) and watch towers (right) of the fortress 堡疊上的走廊（左）和瞭望塔（右）

The most glorious part of Portuguese history, namely the Age of Exploration, left its mark in the Belém district west of Lisbon city centre. The river banks of Belém was where the explorers set off their voyages during the 15th to 16th century, and now a monument (Padrão dos Descobrimentos, or Monument to the Discoveries) has been erected to commemorate the navigators and other important contributors to the seafaring efforts. Farther along the banks from the monument, the Torre de Belém (Belém Tower) used to provide important defence for the port of Belém as well as Lisbon. Its architecture resembled a ship, which can be particularly appreciated when looking down to the terrace of the Tower and the Tagus River from the top of the tower, where I felt as if I were in control of a sailing vessel.
葡萄牙歷史上最光輝、西進發現新大陸的年代，在里斯本市區以西的貝倫區（Belém）留下了遺跡。貝倫區河畔在15、16世紀的航海年代出海的地方，河畔豎立的發現者紀念碑（Padrão dos Descobrimentos），便紀念了當年著名的航海家和其他重要人物，稍遠一點的貝倫塔（Torre de Belém），就是當年保護貝倫區港口以至里斯本的防禦工事，整座塔的設計也很像一艘船，尤其是站在塔頂時，望著下面的璧壘平臺和特茹河，便有一種在船頂控制室指揮航行的感覺。

The Monument to the Discoveries (left) and a map mosaic on Portugal's navigation history (right)

發現者紀念碑（左）和葡萄牙航海史地磚（右）

Torre de Belém 貝倫塔

Let's get sailing!

出發！

Away from the river bank, the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Hieronymites Monastery) and the adjoining Church of Santa Maria are further testaments to the glories of the Age of Exploration as they were built with the wealth from the explorations and the church was a place of prayer for those entering and leaving the port of Belém. The monastery was transferred to the new parish of Belém following the secularisation of the Order of St. Jerome and is now open to public along with the Church of Santa Maria. The monastery was not particularly large, but the architecture and décors of every corner managed to capture my attention and slow my pace down on my visit. It also reminded me of a monastery that I visited in Toledo, Spain in 2007.
離河畔一點的大教堂，就是熱羅尼莫斯修道院（Mosteiro dos Jerónimos）和相連的聖瑪利亞教堂，大教堂靠當年航海帶回來的財富而建，也是當年出海前海員祈福的地方，若說是葡萄牙人的天后廟也頗貼切。修道院早在百多年前隨著熱羅尼莫教派解散而歸貝倫教區管轄，現在連同聖瑪利亞教堂成為世界文化遺產，開放予公眾參觀，修道院地方雖然不大，但每個角落的建築和裝飾都吸引我的眼球，令我流連忘返，也教我回想起07年在西班牙托雷多參觀過的另一家建築特色相近的修道院。

Church of Santa Maria 聖瑪利亞教堂

Inside the church

教堂內部

The monastery 修道院

The décors inside the monastery 修道院內部

Lisbon has allowed me to appreciate the real Portuguese history and heritage, having caught glimpses of it through the colonial heritage of Macau in the past. There’s more to offer in places just outside Lisbon, and that’s what I’ll write about next.
里斯本讓我領略到真真正正的葡萄牙歷史和文化特色，相比下在澳門看到的，是殖民地的色彩，各有千秋。里斯本附近還有其他值得一遊的地方，待我下篇續寫。

Drifting along the Rhine (2) - Düsseldorf 順萊茵河而行（2）— 杜塞爾多夫

2011-10-25T00:08:00.001+11:00

The Rhine flows from the south to the north in north-western Germany, and links Cologne to the other city of Düsseldorf 40 km to the north. These two cities have the Rhine as a common thread and are actually not too far apart, but culturally they can be rather distant. Traditionally they tended to view each other with disdain and maintain a strong cultural boundary in between. They speak completely different dialects, and the famous Cologne beer Kölsch is nowhere to be seen in Düsseldorf. Some of my Munich colleagues even said that the motorway signs in either city would not show directions to the other, but I haven’t had time to check if it were indeed true! Most interestingly, the lay-outs of the two cities are mirror images of each other; while the Old Town of Cologne lies on the west of the Rhine and the eastern river bank is a promenade, Düsseldorf is the opposite with the Old Town on the east and some meadows on the western river bank. Perhaps this is how both places sought to distinguish themselves in the first place!
萊茵河在德國西北由南至北而流，把科隆和北面40公里外的另一個城市杜塞爾多夫連接起來。兩市雖一水相承，且距離不遠，但差異頗大，科隆人和杜塞爾多夫人的關係，傳統上屬於至老死而不相往來那種，大家互相瞧不起對方，方言也大不同，科隆地道啤酒Kölsch在杜塞爾多夫近乎稍聲匿跡，甚至據說大家的公路指示牌都不會標示對方城市呢，不過此行我可沒空查證了。最有趣的還是這兩個城市的佈局：科隆的舊城區位於河的西面，對岸是河濱長廊，杜塞爾多夫則剛好相反，舊城區位於河的東面，對岸是草坪一片，與科隆相映成趣！

The Rhine at Düsseldorf 杜塞爾多夫的萊茵河

It took me an hour to travel from Cologne to Düsseldorf by train, and at the central railway station in Düsseldorf I was greeted by my friend and her husband. My friend is actually a former colleague of mine and has moved to Düsseldorf for less than a year. After lunch she and her husband took me on a stroll around the Old Town. We had good long chats along the way, and inevitably our topic turned quite often to Munich. My friend was reminiscing a lot about the good sides of Munich, such as how Munich was less boring because it was a larger city, and how the scenery around Munich was more beautiful because of the lakes and mountains nearby. I did understand why she had those thoughts. We were definitely not rushing through the Old Town of Düsseldorf, but the places worth visiting were in fact not that many and can be finished in a short time. The region to which Düsseldorf belongs is actually flat in terrain and has the highest population density in Germany. There isn’t too much nature or rural area to speak of in that region, let alone mountains and lakes.
我從科隆坐一小時火車便來到杜塞爾多夫，朋友和她的老公在火車總站迎接，該朋友是老同事，在杜塞爾多夫還不夠一年。午飯後她和老公帶我到舊城區逛逛，大家邊逛邊聊，少不了談到慕尼黑，我這個老同事不時便說她如何想念慕尼黑，說慕尼黑有多好，例如慕尼黑始終是個大城市，沒那麼悶，而且慕尼黑附近有山有水，自然景色比較漂亮。我也明白她的想法：我們逛舊城區已經不算走馬看花，但值得一看的地方真的很快便逛完，而杜塞爾多夫所屬的地區，地勢平坦，而且是全德國人口密度最高的地區，莫說沒有湖光山色，城市與城市之間的農地和自然地帶也不多，風光難免是單調一點。

Marktplatz (left) and Town Hall (below)

市集廣場（左）及市政廳（下）

The tower of Schifffahrtmuseum (Maritime Museum) 海事博物館的塔

Hofgarten opposite to Tonhalle concert hall Tonhalle演奏館對面的Hofgarten

The waterway along Königsallee 沿Königsallee的水道

Static art of different kinds 不同的靜止藝術

We treated ourselves to a good dinner of pork knuckle, and needed some time to let our meals digest properly. I also needed a way to kill time until my overnight to Munich in 4 hours’ time, so we decided to go for a walk along the Rhine. The river was indeed a dynamic place and the promenade was filled up despite its great width. It was also a fun place with some many interesting things to be done. There was an athletics track inviting children to go for a sprinting or cycling race, while next to it a group of people were dancing salsa to some lively music. I wouldn’t know if it was a dancing lesson or an open activity, but it was such a rare scene in Germany to see large congregation of people dancing to some loud music in public. This is how a public place should be: it should be energetic and it should belong to the people.
晚飯由老同事倆帶我吃一頓烤豬蹄，吃得很暢快，之後得消化一下，而且離當晚我往慕尼黑的火車還有四小時左右，我們便沿萊茵河散步消磨時間。河畔可真生氣盅然，沿河的走廊再寬也擠滿了人，最特別的是河畔有處劃了一條賽跑道，讓小孩賽跑或騎腳踏車，旁邊則有一班人跳西班牙式salsa舞，究竟是上課或公開活動我就不知道，但在響徹河畔的樂聲中有這麼大群人翩翩起舞，在德國是難得一見的景象，令河畔生色不少，也令我覺得這個河畔是一片真真正正開放的天地。

A fun place for all by the Rhine 河畔各自各精彩

My former colleague mentioned that she had seen sheep by the river some time before and wanted to find out what it was really about. So we crossed the river at the Rheinkniebrücke bridge and reached the meadows on the opposite banks. We could already see many white dots against the green pastures from afar on the bridge, and indeed there were hundreds of sheep grazing in the meadows on closer look. How would have thought that such typical rural landscape could exist in the middle of a city, against a somewhat incongruous backdrop of swanky new buildings and a tall TV tower? The river bank enjoyed tranquility away from the main crowd and noise in the city, apart from the odd passers-by and the intermittent salsa dancing music that made its way across the water. It actually felt like a ramble in the countryside as we made our way through the slightly tall grass away from the herd to the next bridge. We paused to take a look of the Old Town opposite us, and in the reflexion of the evening sun the Old Town was showing its most graceful and elegant side. My former colleague couldn’t help but say that it was the most beautiful facet of Düsseldorf that she had seen since moving there!
老同事說從前好像在河畔見過羊，想探個究竟，我們便橫跨Rheinkniebrücke橋到河對岸的大草坪。在橋中央我們已離遠看到草坪上有很多白色一點點，再走近一點就讓我們看到幾百頭羊，規模有如郊外的大牧場，但背景是高聳的電視塔和建築新穎的大廈，誰會想到在市中央會放這麼多羊，彷如把郊野搬到市區來？這邊河畔人跡罕至，除了對岸跳舞的樂聲還隱約可聞外，再沒有其他雜聲，我們踏著有點長的草沿河而行，感覺竟也有點像郊遊。近距看過羊群後，我們前往下一道橋，途中抬頭望對岸舊城區，在夕陽的餘暉下展示其古雅的風貌，老同事不禁說，沒想到杜塞爾多夫原來也那麼漂亮，那次終於讓她看到杜塞爾多夫最美的一面了！

Who has moved the countryside to the middle of Düsseldorf?

誰把郊野搬到杜塞爾多夫市中心了？

Sometimes the best sides of a place can only be found off the beaten track but are neglected because we all obstinately stick to our familiar routes. They are there to be discovered, treasured and savoured by those who would dare to venture out of their comfort zones.
人往往祇顧走熟悉的路，忽略了一個城市的其他面貌，而最美好的一面，正有待願意另僻新徑的人來發掘、所賞、細味。

Düsseldorf saved its best till last! (Sorry I could have done better with this panorama.)

不到夕陽西下也不知杜塞爾多夫之美！（祇可惜這幅拚圖實在做得不好。）

Drifting along the Rhine (1) - Cologne 順萊茵河而行（1）——科隆

2011-10-09T01:22:00.000+11:00

After my trip in the USA and Canada, it was time to head to Munich for work, but before that I spent a couple of days in Cologne (Köln in German, 7th to 8th July) followed by a day in Düsseldorf (9th July) to visit a friend. It gave me a chance to visit this north-western part of Germany since I haven’t really been to much of northern Germany during my 3 years in Munich.
七月美加遊後要到慕尼黑公幹，但公幹開始前先到科隆玩兩天（7月7至8日），然後到杜塞爾多夫（Düseeldorf）探朋友（7月9日），見識一下德國西北部這兩天城市，我從前旅居慕尼黑時甚少到德國北部的地方呢。

Many of Cologne’s main tourist spots are concentrated near the central railway station. Right next to the station stands the imposing Cologne Cathedral (Kölner Dom) and the top of one of its spires is the highest point in Cologne. Just a short walk away is the bridge Hohenzollernbrücke which spans the Rhine River and feeds train traffic to and from the Cologne central railway station. More than just a railway thoroughfare, there is a walkway on either side of the railway tracks separated by a metal mesh fence, where people would literally lock in their loves and romances by leaving all kinds of locks (and even handcuffs) on the fence. Through inscribing on the locks then securing them on the fence, they declare to the whole world, witnessed by all passers-by on the bridge, that their love would withstand the currents of time.
科隆很多旅遊賣點都集中在火車總站附近，從車站甫出來，科隆大教堂便矗立在眼前，其尖塔頂是全科隆的最高點。再走遠一點便是霍亨索倫橋（Hohenzollernbrücke），橫跨萊茵河，那道橋不祇是進出火車總站的火車橋，兩邊還各附有一條行人道，以鐵格欄和火車軌分隔開，欄上繫滿了形形式式的鎖甚至手銬，鎖上還刻了一對對情侶的名字，把一份份的心意向世人宣示，並永恆緊扣於橋上，由所有路過的人作見證。

The Cologne Cathedral 科隆大教堂

Views from the top of the spire, including the Hohenzollernbrücke (left)

塔頂的景色，包括霍亨索倫橋（左）

The sea of love locks 心心相扣

Hohenzollernbrücke is also a lively place with a constant stream of people sauntering, jogging or riding bicycles in either direction. The pillars of the bridge are ideal places for rock climbing, while the quieter ones can enjoy some serenity by the river underneath the bridge.
霍亨索倫橋不祇是表示愛意的地方，也匯聚了很多生氣，橋上行人川流不息，散步的、跑步的、騎腳踏車的不住往返橋的兩端，橋身也有兩三班人玩攀爬活動，好靜的亦可坐在橋底的河畔看書玩音樂，各適其式。

A panoramic view of the Hohenzollernbrücke, the Cologne Cathedral and the Old Town

霍亨索倫橋、科隆大教堂和舊城區全景

A bridge for both the active and pensive動靜皆宜的霍亨索倫橋

Other relics of old Cologne include the ancient city gates and a small stretch of the old city wall, scattered about the city centre, but there is not much of them left like many other big German cities.
科隆的古蹟，還包括散布於市區各處的幾個舊城門和一小段古城牆，但和大部份德國大城市一樣，這些遺址已所剩無幾了。

Cologne is known for the perfume which is named after this city, namely Eau de Cologne. I visited the perfume museum of Farina Gegenüber and joined a guided tour there. The tour guide said that the perfume was an invention by an Italian called Farina who moved to and settled in Cologne. Farina saw a market for a less intense perfume and managed to develop a product that was loved all throughout Europe including by the nobilities. He was grateful to Cologne for his success and thus named the perfume after his adopted home. The tour guide emphasised a few times that the Farina brand was the original Eau de Cologne, and warned us against a false claim by the competing brand 4711!
科隆另一樣有名的是香水，古濃水Eau de Cologne便是以這個城市為名，我參觀過Farina Gegenüber 香水博物館，該館導賞團的導遊說，Farina原是意大利人但到科隆落戶，看中淡味香水有市場便自行調製，並風行全歐洲，Farina便把這種香水以科隆命名以示把香水獻給這個第二故鄉，導遊還反覆強調Farina香水是真正的古濃水始祖，因為有另一隻多叫4711的牌子也聲稱自己才是「原裝正貨」，導遊叫我們別誤信這個對手！

The Farina Gegenüber Museum

香水博物館

The historical relics of Unter Goldschmied, an area where goldsmiths used to congregate, opposite to the perfume museum.

昔時金匠聚居地遺址，在香水博物館對面

The Rhine River which flows beneath Hohenzollernbrücke and other bridges of Cologne is an important lifeblood for Cologne. The old port used to be actually located right next to the Old Town, but it has now moved and only marked by three residential blocks in the shape of cranes. Nowadays the Rhine is still an important transport route for cruise and cargo ships.
流過霍亨索倫橋及市內其他橋下的萊茵河，是科隆的經濟命脈，昔時貨物碼頭便是位於離舊城區不遠的河畔，但碼頭現已搬遷，唯一留下來的痕跡，便是三幢依起重機形狀而建的住宅大廈。時至今日萊茵河仍是交通要道，有不少貨船和游輪出入。

The pretty houses of the Old Town lining the Rhine

萊茵河畔舊城區的老房子

The former port, now transformed 改頭換面的舊碼頭

The Rhine carrying goods and tourists 萊茵河貨流和人流不斷

My two days in Cologne went very quickly, and it was time to go with the flow of the Rhine to my next destination, Düsseldorf, where more interesting facets of the Rhine awaited. See my next post!
在科隆的兩天轉瞬流走，我也得順流而行，到下一站杜塞爾多夫，萊茵河在那裡有另一番景色，留待網誌下篇再寫！

Conflicts and destructions 矛盾

2011-09-15T00:27:00.000+10:00

Recently foreign domestic helpers in Hong Kong have launched a judicial review against a law which disqualifies them from permanent residency in Hong Kong regardless of how long they have resided in Hong Kong. Many Hong Kongers oppose to it fiercely, much as they do to migrants from mainland China in recent years.

Last week one of my mum’s friends came from Hong Kong to visit his son who is studying at a university in Melbourne, and we talked to each other on the phone. He asked for some career paths that would help his son to secure permanent residency in Australia.

My dad saw some parallels between the domestic helpers and my mum’s friend. There are conceivably plenty of Hong Kong families who send their children abroad for education and employ a domestic helper at the same time. While some of the families would see their children abroad as a foothold to possible future emigration, they will on the other hand probably object if their domestic helper managed to gain Hong Kong’s residency. The source of this conflict is quite clear: the domestic helpers tend to come from poorer countries, and they will presumably add pressure to the job market and social security system once residency is granted.

I added that Hong Kongers are probably more keen to see the wealthier type settle, but Hong Kong’s allure is sadly declining. The living environment in Hong Kong is certainly not the best. It is known to be crowded but this is really a secondary concern. It is also known to be polluted, but for a long time there has been no improvement. I spent a few days in Hong Kong at the end of August after a work trip in Germany. When my flight was descending, all I could see outside was a white veil, and my camera had a lot of difficulty in auto-focussing when I wanted to take some aerial shots! It was really disappointing and would certainly not leave any favourable impression on any foreigners who saw this.

Air pollution and living quality are age-old issues over which the Hong Kong government seems to be dragging its heels forever. On the other hand it is willing to see one of Hong Kong’s biggest draw cards, liberty, being chipped away and even joins the party. The heavy-handed treatment against protesters during the visit by the Vice-Premier Li Keqiang not only sends a chill down the spine of many people, but is also a sign of deteriorating human rights and liberty in Westerners’ eyes. If Hong Kong cannot offer things that foreigners tend to value, how can it ever contemplate attracting them?

The former Premier Zhu Rongji once said, according to the recently published book on his notable words, that he would pay particular attention to Hong Kong, because he could never find any criticism against him in mainland media but would read plenty of it from Hong Kong’s newspapers. If a national leader could see what sets Hong Kong apart, why is the Hong Kong government so hell-bent on destroying its asset and setting out on a path of self-destruction?

最近在港外傭（家庭傭工）提出司法覆核爭取居港權，惹來不少港人強烈反對，與近年反內地新移民一脈相承。

上星期家母有朋友從港來澳洲探望諗大學的兒子，跟我們通電話，其間問到兒子將來有何出路以便他申請澳洲永久居留權（permanent residency）。

家父聽罷感慨良多，說不難想像香港不少家庭既有請外傭，又有送子女出國負笈，後者目的或多或少都為博得外國居留權，但一說到家中外傭也想留港便千萬個不願意，實在矛盾，相信一大理由是嫌外傭窮，擔心他們會和港人搶飯碗爭福利吧。

我也插嘴道，香港最想吸引有錢人來，可惜愈來愈沒條件，居住環境不夠好，空間少還是其次，最差是空氣污染，我八月底自德國回港小休數天，飛機降落時，外面白濛濛一片，本想拍幾張高空照但相機竟然不能自動對焦，真夠掃興，足見空氣有多混濁，外國人看到，對香港的第一印象肯定不會好到那裡去。

空氣污染和居住環境這些老問題，政府拖了N年也總下不了決心解決，另一邊廂卻讓香港的一大優勢——自由慢慢侵蝕，甚至參與其中，李克強訪港時阻撓市民正常表達權利的舉動，看了教我們這些在外國的港人心寒，西方人知道的話也不免會認定香港在人權和自由上倒退了。外國人最崇尚的東西，香港提供不到的話，試問香港還有甚麼吸引力？

前總理朱鎔基在最近出版的《朱鎔基講話實錄》有句話，說他特別注重香港輿論，因為在國內「找不到罵我的文章，香港報紙上這類文章就多了」。國家領導人也體會到香港這個優勢，香港為甚麼卻忙著自毀長城？

Go chasing waterfalls 大城市和大瀑布

2011-09-11T23:15:00.000+10:00

After my conference in the USA at the end of June, I crossed the border and headed to Toronto for a short break.
六月底出席完在美國的會議後，我便飛往鄰國的多倫多放放假。

The Toronto skyline from the top floor (22nd floor) of my hostel

從旅舍最高層22樓望到的多倫多市區景色

My first day there (1st July) happened to be Canada Day, and the Canadians celebrated the occasion with lots of fireworks. Having just arrived there, I decided to go on an adventure to the Woodbine Beach by Lake Ontario following the route given by a hostel staff. I sensed something not quite right when most revellers alighted at the underground station before what I was told, and when I alighted, I checked the map and with station staff and indeed I’ve gone to the wrong place! Fortunately there was still time to find the right route, and I didn’t miss any fireworks after all.
我在多倫多的第一天（7月1日）剛好是加拿大國慶日，不少地方都放煙火助興，我也決定湊湊熱鬧，向旅舍職員問過路線後，便出發往安大略湖畔的Woodbine沙灘。我坐地鐵前往那裡時，但見大部分人都在旅舍職員告訴我的前一站下車，已覺得不對勁，待我下車後，查看地圖又問過地鐵職員，才知道原來被旅舍職員「老點」（指錯地方），幸好時間尚早，還有時間重新找路途，總算沒有錯過放煙火。

When the fireworks finished I walked along the same road to the underground station and came across Gerrard Street East which had the same name as where my hostel was and had a tram route running. Knowing how the roads in American and Canadian cities often adapt a grid lay-out and how some roads can stretch on for long distances, I quickly checked the route map of the tram and decided to hop on to a waiting tram so that I wouldn’t have to get squeezed in the underground. It turned out to be a good move because the tram took me through an Indian-Pakistani district which has a good number of restaurants and other shops. I went back two evenings later for a meal and looking around the shops there.
煙火表演後，沿著原路走回地鐵站返回旅舍，經過Gerrard Street East，可以坐電車，這條街跟我旅舍所在的街是同一名字，心想美加大城市街道往往形成矩陣，而且街道可以跨相連城市延伸一段長距離，剛好又有電車停站，我便趕快查看電車路線圖，然後馬上上車，免得跟一大班人擠地鐵。沒想到電車會經過多倫多的印度巴基斯坦區，沿路的食肆和商店吸引到我兩晚後重臨吃頓飯和逛逛。

Fashion, Indian style

印度式時裝店

The restaurant that I visited boasts of catering for up to 2000 people. It's no mean feat if it's true!

我光顧的餐廳說自己可以為最多2000人提供到會，真的這麼厲害？

The Indian-Pakistani district typifies the make-up of Toronto’s population. Even coming from Australia which has a high number and diversity of migrant population, I was still struck by how many ethnicities and cultures I came across in the streets of Toronto city centre. Another case was the west side of the city where Spadina Avenue was a mix of Chinese and South-East Asian shops and restaurants but one street away it turned into a hippie district. It was indeed a rather interesting blend.那個印巴區正好是多倫多的縮影，澳洲移民數目和種族之多，我早已司空見慣，但到了多倫多市區，看到更多移民和不同的文化，讓我嘖嘖稱奇。市區西面的Spadina Avenue也是多文化融合的另一例子，這條唐人街一大段都是中國和東南亞商鋪，但隔了一條街便變成得很前衛、嬉皮，與唐人街大異其趣。

Kensington Avenue, one street away from Spadina Avenue, with its funky shops

與Spadina Avenue一街之隔的Kensington Avenue，趣怪商店多

The Ontario Parliament (left) with its wooden east wing (centre) and marble west wing (right) - the west wing was originally wooden but rebuilt with marble after a fire

安大略省議會（左），東翼用木建（中），西翼用大理石（右），是一場火災把原來的木建築燒毀後重建而成的。

The Gooderham Building in the Historic District 舊城區的Gooderham Building

However as a tourist city, my impression is that Toronto hasn’t got too much to offer and there’s little that one can’t see elsewhere. A trip to the outer islands in Lake Ontario made up for this disappointment to some extent. On a warm sunny day, those islands were filled with people making use of the last day of the Canada Day long weekend. There were plenty of people cycling, swimming, sailing and picnicking everywhere. The islands also offered plenty of vantage points for looking back to Toronto city centre, and to me the feeling was actually somewhat like looking towards Hong Kong Island from the Kowloon side!
不過對遊客而言，多倫多的景點乏善可陳，而且沒有很多是世界其他大城市見不到的東西，幸好多倫多對開在安大略湖的外島，總算也可彌補一下這方面的不足。那天天公造美，加上是長週末，不少人都一家大少湧到島上騎單車、游泳、泛舟和野餐，島上多處也可遠望到多倫多市區的景色，感覺倒有幾分像從尖沙咀遠眺港島一樣！

Toronto by the lake front 湖畔的多倫多市區

Toronto Island Airport, clearly visible from the lake front

多倫多島機場，從湖畔清晰可見

Toronto Island, a place to relax and have fun 多倫多島，消閑和玩樂的好去處

Toronto City's skyline provides a picture-perfect backdrop to the Island!

多倫多市區景色，正好是這個島上佳的背景！

On my last full day there (4th July) I joined a day tour to the Niagara Falls and the surrounding area. I’ve already had a glimpse of it on board the flight from Boston to Toronto on 1st July, and I couldn’t wait to see how big it would be close up! The Niagara Falls actually consisted of three waterfalls, with one main one and a small one on the American side and another on the Canadian side. The Canadian Horseshoe Falls were the largest of them all, and walking along the cliffs lining the Horseshoe Falls and Niagara River (where the waterfalls descend into) one could already feel the power of the waterfalls through the mist and rumbling sounds of the water flow! I also took the boat that sailed upstream to the foot of the Horseshoe Fall, and that really made everyone feel the full strengths of the current and force of Nature. The Niagara Falls clearly hasn’t lost any of its punch since the melting of the glaciers which gave rise to it millions of years ago!
我離開多倫多的前一天（7月4日）參加了一個一天旅行團前往尼亞加拉大瀑布和鄰近地區。早在7月1日由波士頓飛往多倫多時我已有機會鳥瞰大瀑布，令我更想親臨瀑布旁感受那般氣勢！尼亞加拉大瀑布其實由三道瀑布形成，美國那邊有一大一小的，但加起來也不夠加拿大那邊的馬蹄瀑布大，沿著瀑布和下游尼亞加拉河的懸崖觀看之，河面大且水流湍急，水聲隆隆，衝下瀑布時濺起飄得又高又遠的水花，有如一層薄霧，高時甚至遮日！旅行團也包括坐船逆流而上至瀑布底部，船駛到瀑布近處，但覺腳下流水有如萬馬奔騰，頭上水花如急雨灑下，令我深深感受到尼亞加拉大瀑布真的不容小覷，自遠古時代冰河溶化後形成的瀑布，至今仍然洶湧澎湃，歷久不衰，大自然的力量果然令人生畏！

An aerial view of the Niagara Falls; the upper side is Canadian.

半空遙望尼亞加拉大瀑布，河的上方屬加拿大。

Water flow with such a sweeping force

江水滔滔，生生不息

The American Falls (left) and the Canadian Fall (right)

美國的兩個瀑布（左）和加拿大的瀑布（右）

The Niagara River downstream of the Falls and the Rainbow Bridge linking Canada and the USA

瀑布下游的尼亞加拉河和連接美、加兩國的彩虹橋

Feel the power!

大瀑布的威力

Now see the Niagara Falls for yourself! 現在讓你感受一下大瀑布！

Afterwards the tour took us to the picturesque historic town of Niagara-on-the-Lake, where the Niagara River met Lake Ontario. It was such a clear day that the skyline of Toronto, more than 60 km away, was still visible from the beach of the town!
之後旅行團來到Niagara-on-the-Lake這個典雅的歷史小鎮，那裡也是尼亞加拉河與安大略湖匯合之處，那天天朗氣清，站在河畔的沙灘也望得到超過60公里外的多倫多！

More than just tourism - the Niagara River also generates hydroelectricity

尼亞加拉河除了是旅遊區外，也是水力發電的重地

From the beach at Niagara-on-the-Lake: Youngstown, NY, USA on the opposite bank of the river (left) and Toronto at afar (right; magnify the photo to see it more clearly)

從Niagara-on-the-Lake的沙灘遠望河對岸美國紐約州Youngstown（左）和遠方的多倫多（右，祇要放大相片便可看清楚）

One of the many pretty old buildings at Niagara-on-the-Lake

Niagara-on-the-Lake鎮內眾多古式建築物之一

Symbol of Canada - in a contrast of two pretty colours

象徵加拿大的楓葉，紅的或綠的任君欣賞

The last stop of the tour was some wine tasting on the way back to Toronto. I have never thought that the Niagara region would be warm enough to grow grapes and produce wine. While the standard white and red wines are nothing spectacular, Canada is quite famous for its ice wine. The freezing winters and its quick onset would allow the snap freezing of grapes and concentration of the sugar in the little juice that would remain in the grapes. Canada is the only country in the world that can produce both red and white ice wines, and of course I took the opportunity to buy one bottle of each, for some sweet memories of my stay in Canada.
行程最後一站是試酒，我一直不知尼亞加拉地區原來氣候夠溫暖可以種葡萄兼釀酒，雖然當地的白酒、紅酒並不是太出色，但葡萄一到冬天會因天氣急速轉冷而結冰，糖份全都濃縮到小量剩餘未結冰的汁液，把汁液提煉出來後便可釀製冰酒（ice wine）。加拿大不祇以出產冰酒為名，還是世界上唯一可以釀紅、白兩種冰酒的地方，所以我也把握機會各買一瓶，為我這個加國之旅留下甜美的回憶。

Vineyards with windmills, the function of which is in fact to disperse the cold air that stays closer to the ground than warmer air!

莊園設有多台風車，功用其實是把聚在地面的冷空氣掃走！

Francly messy 當中立國也不能獨善其身

2011-08-24T23:52:00.004+10:00

There was a special report in a newspaper yesterday on the effects of a strong Swiss franc on Switzerland’s economy. It wasn’t that long ago that I went to Switzerland twice, and I know a few people living there, so I could relate the article to a few of my personal experiences.
昨天讀報談到瑞士法郎大幅升值如何影響瑞士經濟，我不久前到過瑞士兩次，也認識一些在瑞士的人，所以讀後甚有共鳴。

Before the Swiss franc has reached such crazy heights as today's, Switzerland is already rather (in)famous for its high prices. My friend who is studying for a PhD in Switzerland came for a weekend break in Munich during last year’s Oktoberfest in September, and everywhere he went he would remark how cheap the prices were in Munich. My other friends and I joked that he must have become a millionaire since moving to Switzerland!
瑞士法郎還沒有今日如此瘋癲時，物價之貴已舉世聞名，在瑞士唸博士的朋友，去年九月趁啤酒節來慕尼黑過周未時，所到之處他總會說：「怎麼這裡的物價會這樣便宜？」我和其他朋友都取笑道，他一定是成了大富豪了！

This January when I went with another friend for a visit to Konstanz, I still remember vividly how the roads in that city were clogged with cars when the shops were closing. Most of those actually belonged to what I dub the ‘Swiss Army of shoppers’ who were all heading back across the border into Kreuzlingen, causing a long file of traffic stretching for great lengths from the border check point. Interestingly the newspaper article opened with the contrast between the almost dead Kreuzlingen and bustling Konstanz. I can imagine that the traffic congestion in Konstanz can only be worse these days.
今年一月跟另一個朋友往康斯坦茨時，猶記得商店關門時間城內塞車為患，擠滿了打道回府的「瑞士購物兵團」，通住邊境另一面的瑞士Kreuzlingen的車龍延綿不斷，印象深刻，這篇報章專題也有談及，我想瑞郎升值後此情況祇有變本加厲的份兒！

Many readers of the article attributed the high prices in Switzerland to its closed market with weak competition (see the comments below the article). The high salaries must surely be another factor. On the other hand, one can also say that it is the high salaries that allow the Swiss to afford the high expenses of the country. My student friend's stipend is already on par with what I earned in Germany working with a PhD degree already obtained! A report released by UBS two weeks ago pointed out that Swiss cities were among the most expensive in the world, but the purchasing power in those cities were also the highest in the world. The only Australian city surveyed, Sydney, also showed a similar pattern. Of course the survey did not take into account how the Swiss could stretch their purchasing power further by taking advantage of lower prices in neighbouring countries, which would leave Australians jealous. Online shopping has been the best thing since sliced bread for many Australians, who have found that direct purchasing from abroad is often cheaper than the domestic retails prices. But there’s only so much that online shopping can help; Australians simply cannot cross the border and stock up on shampoos and deodorants like the Swiss family mentioned in the newspaper article do!
瑞士物價貴，有說是市場封閉競爭少所致（詳見該篇專題下面的留言），工資高相信也是一個原因，但反過來說，正因為是高工資，所以瑞士人一直以來都較能負擔本土的高開銷，例如我的博士生朋友，月薪已及我這個已畢業的人以前在德國工作時的水平！兩星期前瑞銀發表報告指，瑞士城市物價名列世界前茅，但本土購買力亦同時是世界前茅，調查中唯一的澳洲城市悉尼，也是世界前列的昂貴，但本土購買力也及得上瑞士，當然調查忽略了，瑞士人跨境拾便宜貨是如何輕而易舉（正如港人以前如何喜歡到深圳），所以瑞士人的購買力實際上會比澳洲人好。澳洲無境可跨，網上購物興起是不少人的福音，直接從海外訂購的價錢往往比本地零售便宜，但總不可能像報章專題中的瑞士家庭一樣，連洗髮水和止汗香氛這些日用品也可誇境搜購！

* * *

It must be Swiss National Bank’s biggest headache to effect a devaluation of its currency, especially during these days when there are dark clouds hanging over much of the world and risk aversion is the catch phrase of the financial world. Switzerland seems attractive in this regard thanks to its solid economy and low debts, although the high exchange rate threatens to topple the Swiss economy over.
如何令瑞郎貶值，相信是瑞士央行的大煩惱，尤其是這個世界經濟不明朗的時刻，瑞士經濟穩健債務少便令其貨幣成了避險的寵兒（雖然瑞郎現時的高匯價卻正會引致經濟下滑之虞）。

Last month one of the lunchtime conversations at work in Munich turned to the rise of the Swiss franc and the prospects of the euro. I joked that the best way for the Swiss to devalue their currency is to join the Eurozone immediately. Then Switzerland would have to share the debt burden and the franc then fall in tandem with the euro, while the Eurozone would benefit from an extra source of liquidity. One of my colleagues then said, that was the reason why many countries were holding off joining the Eurozone, as they may have to make sacrifices to the debt problem before they receive any benefits!
上個月跟一班德國同事吃午飯時也談到瑞郎的升勢和歐元的前景，我便開玩笑說，要瑞郎貶值，祇要瑞士馬上加入歐元區便可，屆時瑞士便要分擔那些債務，匯價會馬上貶值，歐盟也因馬上多了一筆錢周轉而可鬆一口氣，另一個同事便說，所以那些本來有意加入歐元區的國家現在都卻了步，免得「未見官先打五十大板」，得不到甜頭之餘，還要科款還債！

The debt problem in Europe will not be easy to resolve, not in a small part due to the attitude of Germany. The possibility of Eurobonds was at one stage floated by the German government as a means of restructuring the debts of the member states, but was shelved after the meeting between the German Chancellor and French President. Instead the euro member states received a lecturing by the German Chancellor to balance their books. This is surely a big victory for Germany! Germany has been reluctant to help the debt-laden countries out of their crises for various reasons: for the fear of it becoming a bottomless pit and turning the European economic and monetary union into a European ‘Transfer Union’; and for the opposition of the public to bail out those less fiscally-disciplined countries. However, some outsiders take the view that Germany has benefited the most from the introduction of the euro. From the casual observation that the one-euro coin is minted almost the same size as one deutsche mark, to the macroeconomic level that the interest rate cycles and monetary policies of the euro are more geared for Germany than the heavily indebted countries, the euro seems to be tailor-made for Germany since day one. In the mean time, Germany has undertaken internal structural reforms and pursued stronger trade links with the growing economies particular in Asia. It is certainly reaping the rewards now as exports to those Asian countries have helped Germany stave off the financial crisis and advance its economy. It is thus considered fair by some people for Germany to play and pay its part in helping the countries in need.
歐債這趟混水恐不易解決，最大的難關要算是德國。本來德國政府也放風聲說發行歐元債券、協助其他國家重整債務有望，但到德法元首會面後卻擱置計劃，德國總理更開腔要求成員國更好管理財政，相信是德國的重大勝利！德國一直不願意不斷出資拯救債足深陷的國家，一則擔心是無底深潭，歐洲聯盟變成「匯款聯盟」，二則民情反對，但不少局外人謂，德國是整個歐元貨幣聯盟的大贏家，大至歐元的利率周期和政策適合德國多於債台高築的弱國，小至一歐元硬幣的大小跟一德國馬克差不多，歐元似為德國度身訂造，再加上德國數年前開始內部改革，並加強對外經貿，這兩年德國得以乘著亞洲經濟的勢頭，保持經濟增長，所以德國拯救歐債問題要出錢出力也合理。

The European debt crisis has cemented the roles of Germany and France as leaders of the European Union, and of those two Germany is conceivably in a stronger position judging from their relative economic prospects. When I visited a friend in Lisbon at the end of last month, she said that whenever the European Union was discussing the debt crisis, the Portuguese people would actually care less about what their president had to say but rather pay more attention to the words of the German Chancellor, as she had the ultimate power to dictate how the EU money should be spent. So now you know who the real head of the sovereign in Portugal is! Germany’s position in the world has been on the rise since its reunification in 1990, and the debt crisis has propelled it to the fore. Germany may consider itself as a reluctant hero in this situation, but after all it’s a major economy with relatively sound fundamentals, and everyone will most likely be seeking its leadership and actions. A few years ago I came across an article in Germany and I can still remember its central premise, that Germany is not satisfied with being commanded by Europe but is rather seeking to command Europe in return. This aim is certainly taking shape.
歐債危機越來越凸出德法兩個在歐盟的領導地位，而以德法兩國的形勢而言，德國似更佔上風，大有統領歐洲之勢！上月底到里斯本探朋友，她便說歐盟就歐債危機開會議時，葡萄牙人最關心的，不是自己的總統說甚麼，而是德國總理有何表態，因為後者才是向葡萄牙「開水喉」的關鍵，德國總理已儼然成了葡萄牙的太上皇！德國自90年統一後不斷崛起，歐債危機更是時勢造英雄（雖然可能是英文所指的reluctant hero，即不情願的英雄，因為德國始終既是大國亦夠穩健，無論本身多不願意，其他人總會以其馬首是瞻），幾年前在德國讀到一篇文章，最令我印象深刻的一句是，德國想把自己的角色，由歐洲的德國，變為德國的歐洲，這個目標，正可能逐漸成形。

The State of Reunions 美利堅聚合國

2011-08-14T22:59:00.004+10:00

I haven’t looked after my blog for a while now because I’ve had various important things to take care of, including a trip in which I attended a conference in the USA at the end of June and went to the lab in Munich for another work trip. Now I’ve finally found the time to pick up my writing habits again.
早一整子為了不同的事情忙，包括準備六月底往美國開會議和七月中回慕尼黑公幹做實驗，網誌也因此荒廢了，現在終於可以再寫一點點了。

Apart from the conference, my time in the US also gave me a rare chance to meet up with the Chinese friends whom I met during my years working in Munich, all at once.
在美國除了開會議外，還跟一眾當年在慕尼黑認識的中國人朋友再次聚首，真夠難得。

The conference was held at a place north of Boston, and flying there from Australia necessitates a change at the West Coast, so I decided to make San Francisco my stop-over point (23rd June) and visit a friend working at Stanford to kick-start my round-the-world trip.
會議在波士頓以北舉行，乘飛機從澳洲出發，須在西岸轉換航班，所以便決定取道三藩市（6月23日），順道到史丹褔（Stanford）探朋友，開展我的環遊世界之旅。

The San Francisco Bay Area (i.e. the metropolitan area of San Francisco and surrounds) has arguably one of the highest concentrations of technology companies in the world, including many which are now household names. My friend’s lab was located next to a rather unassuming building, which in fact was the headquarters of Facebook! My friend’s husband is a Google employee and worked in the ‘geography’ department responsible for Street View and Google Earth. We got to visit his office after hours, and it was only too obvious what the office was about with a Street View recording car and the distinctive red ‘signpost’ for pinpointing in Google Maps. Inside the office, Google Earth captured everyone’s fascination as the views were projected onto a series of vertical screens arranged in an arc and looked very realistic. It would take you on a fly-through after choosing the preset famous landmarks or entering any address in the world, and you can take control of the ‘flying’ altitude and route. It almost felt like flying a fighter jet yourself!
三藩市灣區（Bay Area，即三藩市的都會圈）科技公司雲集，不乏家傳戶曉的大企業，朋友的實驗室毗鄰，驟眼看來並不怎樣起眼，但原來是Facebook的總部！朋友的老公任職Google，負責「地理業務」，包括拍攝街景（Street View）和Google地球（Google Earth）的製作，下班時間招待我到其辦公室參觀，甫到達便看到拍攝街景的汽車和標示地點的紅標誌，進去後更可以操作投射到排成弧形的螢幕的立體Google地球，祇要選擇世界著名地標或輸入世界上任可地址，便可以轉瞬間飛到目的地，也可用控制器把玩「飛行」高度和路線，感覺真像駕戰鬥機！

Stanford University campus 史丹福大學校園

The birthplace of Google Maps
Google地圖在此誕生



A unique perspective of Paris (left), and on top of the world (right)
從難得的角度俯瞰巴黎（左）和飛越世界的最高峰（右）

The Google headquarters (left) and the original Android (right)
Google總部（左）和Android的雛型（右）

After a dinner at the canteen of Google headquarters, it was time to continue my flight to Boston. I’ve been to Boston 3 years ago, so this time the main purpose in Boston (24th to 25th June) was to meet up with my long-time friends, and there were quite a few. One was a Hong Konger whom I met at a conference a few years ago now married to a Swiss and working in Boston. Out of those who used to work at the same place in Munich, there were three who have also moved to Boston for work, and two hailing from London and Switzerland who happened to be attending other conferences near Boston about the same time as I. This can only be described as a happy coincidence! Good food is definitely in order for mass gatherings. My Munich friends and I all had a sumptuous seafood dinner in a restaurant, and some of us went to the second top floor in Prudential Center for an afternoon tea with a full birds’ eye view of Boston as a condiment. There was also time for some shopping (although I was fairly restrained on that) and a walk through the city and harbourside.
之後在Google總部的飯堂吃過晚飯，便再上飛機前往波士頓。我三年前已到過波士頓，這些舊地重遊（6月24至25日）的最主要目的是敘舊：多年前在某會議認識一個香港人，現已嫁給一個瑞士人，並在波士頓工作；在慕尼黑認識的中國朋友，有三個也在波士頓工作，另一個轉到倫敦工作的和到瑞士繼續唸博士的兩個香港朋友，湊巧也是同一時間來到波士頓開其他會議，實在太有緣了！與朋友重敘，吃喝少不免，在波士頓當然少不了一頓豐富的海鮮餐，和在Prudential Center 第二高層的餐廳邊鳥瞰全城邊品嚐下午茶了。除了吃喝，我在波士頓還有時間做點血拼（不過並沒有太出血！）和在市中心及海濱閒逛。

The Boston Public Library (left) and shopping at Newbury Street (right)
波士頓公共圖書館（左）和Newbury Street購物街（右）

Boston by its harbour 波士頓海港

Prudential Center (the left building in the left photo) commanding over Boston (right)
Prudential Center（左圖內左邊的大廈）在波士頓高高在上（右）

From Boston, I took a 2-hour coach trip on 26th June to the Colby-Sawyer College in New London, New Hampshire where I would spend my next 5 days for a conference. Although it was a rather small conference with 200 or fewer attendants, everyone’s research topic made use of the same technology so we all had a common background. There were also plenty of time for discussions thanks to the long pauses in between the talks and the free time during the day, and it was very easy to get engaged in deep conversations. The conference venue was in the middle of the New England region, well known for its woods and lakes. As those places tend to be far away from where people live, they are usually best explored by car, but cycling was not a bad idea either. I rented a bike in one of the afternoons and followed those quiet roads through the woods and the lakes for some solo enjoyment of the nature and space that America had to offer!
6月26日我從波士頓坐了兩個多小時長途巴士，到了新罕布什爾州New London市的Colby-Sawyer College，開展為期五天的會議，出席人數雖然200人也不足，但勝在大家都使用同一技術做類似的研究課程，志同道合，而且每次演講後討論時間特別長，空閒時間也多，所以大家話題特別多，也可談得深入一點。會議地點位處新英格蘭地區（New England），樹林茂密，有山有湖，這些地方遠離人煙，除了開車，騎腳踏車也不錯，我便找個下午租了一輛，沿著人跡罕至的道路，繞過湖，穿過樹林，獨自享受美國廣闊的大地和自然。

The main building of Colby-Sawyer College (left) and a church nearby (right)
Colby-Sawyer College主大樓（左）和附近的教堂（右）

Little Sunapee Lake, a place for some aquatic fun
小Sunapee湖，弄潮的好地方



Mansions deep in the woods 叢林深處的大宅

After the five days of conference and a 4-day detour to Canada, I was back in the USA for a lab visit in Chicago on 5th to 6th July. I had useful discussions with a collaborating lab there, and because we had a common research interest but different approaches, it helped to broaden my views and forced me to think about issues and viewpoints that I have neglected. Speaking of Chicago, I’ve indeed visited the place two or three times in the past, but my impression and knowledge of it is rather piecemeal. Every time I could only spend an afternoon for a whirlwind tour through a small part of the city, and this time it was unfortunately no exception. The only time I had for leisure was my first evening there, when I took the opportunity to walk along the famous Michigan Avenue and Millennium Park before and after dinner with a friend in that part of the city. Only then did I finally appreciate why Chicago was famous for its architecture! I really look forward to another trip to Chicago where I can spend a few days and see the city as a whole.
開了五天會議後，轉往鄰國加拿大遊玩四天後，再返回美國，7月5和6日到芝加哥拜訪一個合作伙伴的實驗室，與他們交流研究結果和心得，由於大家研究方向和所用的技術各有不同，跟這些伙伴討論的確能夠擴闊視野、思考一些自己從沒想過的問題和觀點，獲益良多。說到芝加哥，以前的確來過兩三次，但對這個城市的認識和印象有點零碎，全因為每次都祇抽到數小時空，匆匆逛逛市區的一部分，這次也不例外，祇是第一晚趁和朋友晚膳之便，到市中心的著名大街Michigan Avenue一行，看到街道兩邊的高樓和千禧公園（Millennium Park），終於讓我見識到芝加哥建築為何有名！我很想找個機會，好好的一次過遊覽芝加哥，好讓我更全面了解這個地方。

The Univeristy of Chicago, taking architectural cues from Oxbridge
芝加哥大學，建築風格仿照英國牛津劍橋



Wrigley Building, viewing from Michigan Avenue (left) and across Chicago River (right)
從Michigan Avenue（左）和芝加哥河對岸（右）的箭牌公司大廈景觀



Some night views along Chicago River
芝加哥河夜景



Artistic flair at Millennium Park
世紀公園，藝術無邊

In the 10 days in the US, I managed to make new acquaintances while meet my long-time friends during different times and occasions. I’m looking forward to the next reunion already, but who knows when that will be.
在美國前後十天，能和舊雨新知在不同的場合聚首，是一種緣份，不知下次見面又是甚麼時候？

Exploration on my doorstep (2) 近在眼前的新大陸(2)

2011-07-15T23:29:00.004+10:00

It's sometimes to quite easy to forget that there are still places waiting to be explored closer to Melbourne, and the last time I went was two years ago. In late April and early May I’ve finally had the chance to go to a couple of larger towns near Melbourne and caught a glimpse of what those places are like.
其實墨爾本附近還有好些地方有待我發掘，上次作這些短途旅遊已是兩年前的事了，但到四月底和五月初終於再次有機會，接連到過墨爾本附近的兩個大城鎮，見識一下那些地方有啥特色。

My parents and I went to Geelong on the last day of the 5-day-long Easter break to make use of the pleasant weather back then. It was rather rare that my parents could be motivated to go on a short trip with me, and it turned out to be a good decision since the weather became grey and chilly in May. We took the train to this town some 60 km away from Melbourne. In the beginning the weather threatened to spoil our fun, but it all cleared up in time just as we wanted to head to the shore.
復活節一連放假五天，而且每天天氣不錯，不出外走動就有點浪費了（踏入五月天氣驟然轉涼又灰灰暗暗，真慶幸有把握復活節時的好時光），難得家父家母都有興緻，所以我們便一同坐火車往60多公里外的吉朗市（Geelong）。出發時還是天陰陰，幸好到那裡後陰霾一掃而空，我們正想往海邊去，很是合時。

There was honestly nothing special about the city centre of Geelong, but the atmosphere was much livelier at the waterfront, full of people playing ball games, holding picnics and taking a walk on the beach and the gentle slopes hugging the coast. Everyone was taking the opportunity to enjoy the sunshine and warmth. The waterfront was further enlivened by sculptured bollards dotted along walking paths and roads. The variety of characters depicted by the bollards encapsulated the make-up and nature of the community in Geelong, and added to the artistic flair.
吉朗小小的市中心啥特別，但離海濱不遠，那裡有另一種氣氛，比市中心更活潑更有生氣，不論在沙灘和畔海的小山坡，盡是打球、散步和野餐的人群，大家都盡情享受陽光和溫暖。海濱最大的特色，是到處豎立了畫了不同人像的圓柱，反映當地居民的不同面貌，也為海濱增添藝術氣息。

By the sea, where mussels can be enjoyed (right)
海濱，是享受青口的最佳地方（右）

The bollards depicting all walks of life in Geelong
海濱的圓柱人像，反映吉朗多方面的人文面貌

Past the beach, I walked up the slopes to the other end of the Botanic Gardens through its vast expanse, then turned around and walked back to the beach along a quiet road by the shore. There was hardly a soul to be seen en route, and I was left alone to enjoy the open view of the sea as well as the leisure of wandering on my own.
過了沙灘上山坡繼續走，便是敞大的植物公園，到了公園盡頭便下山沿着幽靜的馬路走回到沙灘，沿途人跡罕至，視野開揚，正好讓我獨個兒沈醉於遼闊的海景中和享受在海濱散步的閒情逸致。

A world of openness and tranquility
天空海闊任我行

Then in the beginning of May, I was invited to a wedding in another town called Ballarat. Knowing that wedding formalities could go on well into the evening, I decided to stay overnight, with the added advantage of being able to revisit the place the next day after a 10-year absence. Happily the next day was the local Heritage Weekend, and I joined a guided tour led by a local historian to learn about the past of Ballarat.
到了五月初，應朋友之邀，到巴拉瑞特市（Ballarat）出席其婚禮，明知婚宴會很晚才結束，所以便在當地過夜。我對上一次到巴拉拉已是差不多十年前的事情，這次舊地重遊，第二天剛好遇上當地的歷史遺產週末（Heritage Weekend），所以我也順道參加了一個導賞團，由一個本地歷史學者當嚮導，介紹該市的歷史。

Ballarat shot into prominence in the 1850s with the gold rush, but while there is no gold left these days, many of its Victorian-era relics have been passed on well-preserved to this time. Take as an example the guest house where I stayed. It used to be a ‘coffee palace’ to provide an alcohol-free ‘alternative’ meeting place to the many other pubs, and its age was definitely showing through the tatty interior décors. But the skylight and the stairs with its banisters were a reminder of its better days back in the gold-rush era.
巴拉瑞特於1850年代的淘金熱發跡，如今金早就淘光了，但那段光輝日子，透過完好保存至今的建築物流傳下來。就以我入住的旅館為例，當初是家咖啡館，為酒館以外提供另一個聚腳點，現在搖身一變成為旅館，雖然內部裝潢真的有點殘舊，但天井和樓梯特色依然，總算有一種古風吧。

Living in history at Reid's Guesthouse
入住Reid's Guesthouse，時光彷彿倒流了

Next to the guest house was the railway station with its grand classical architecture. The people back in those days were only to willing to splash their wealth on architecture. The design of the railway station and the addition of the clock tower were intended to showcase its importance. The white painting gave the station a clean appearance which matches the grandeur of this masterpiece.
旅館旁便是古色古香的火車站，當年的人淘金發財後，不會吝嗇花在建築，而且會互相攀比，火車站的設計和鐘樓頂便彰顯其重要性和地位，古典的建築，塗上純白色，更突出其經典味道。

The railway station (left) and one of the many classical post boxes in Ballarat (right)
巴拉瑞特火車站（左）和站外的古典郵筒（右）

Farther along Lydiard Street, where both the guest house and railway station were located, there were many other Victorian-style buildings on display. It is indeed a blessing to Ballarat that the façade and structure of those buildings were so well kept. Apart from the efforts in conservation, the building material played no small part in helping the buildings stand the test of time. Many made use of basalt (also called bluestone in Australia) which was also common in Melbourne in the same era. Those buildings tend to be able to ‘age gracefully’ as basalt is a sturdy material, and they retain their elegance as time goes by. The workmanship of that era was probably also helping modern conservationists a lot. I was rather impressed that I could not hear passing trains in the guest house apart from the honking steam engines that were put on as special services for the Heritage Weekend, even though the guest house was right next to the railway station, and I was totally oblivious to the traffic along Lydiard Street until I opened the door at the main entrance. Such quality of sound-proofing could easily beat many modern buildings!
旅館和火車站位處的Lydiard Street，沿途盡是淘金年代的維多利亞式建築，至今外貌和結構仍保留完好，我想除了是當地注重保養外，也跟建築用料有莫大關係，當年不少建築物都是以玄武岩（basalt，在澳洲亦稱bluestone）興建，質地堅固而外觀典雅，幾經風雨而絲毫無損，在墨爾本亦廣為採用。建築質素水準也高，旅館雖位於火車站旁，但我唯一聽到的是在歷史遺產週末特別登場的蒸氣火車的鳴笛聲，而火車駛過的聲音或Lydiard Street的汽車聲，要打開旅館大門才可聽到，可見當時建築之精良。

Bluestone buildings surviving through the ages
歷久不衰的建築



Lydiard Street, an exhibition of Victorian-era architecture
Lydiard Street，彷如維多利亞式建築的展覽場

Amidst the myriad of Victorian architecture along Lydiard Street, the Regent Theatre stood out for its distinctive Art Deco architectural style between the two world wars. At the end of the street stood the University of Ballarat which used to be a prison. From a place of reshaping lives of the prisoners to educating the future generation of the society, the role of this place has undergone a transition as time went on.
在Lydiard Street一片維多利亞式建築中，皇宮劇院明顯獨樹一格，帶有兩次世界大戰之間的Art Deco特色，街尾的巴拉瑞特大學，前身是監獄，由昔日引導囚犯改過向善至今天作育英才，這個地方的功能隨歲月過渡。

Regent Theatre
皇宮劇院



From prison to university 監獄變大學

The other main thoroughfare of Ballarat is Sturt Street which runs parallel to Lydiard Street. Apart from its role as a section of the highway linking Ballarat to Melbourne and other towns in Victoria, Sturt Street is also a site of many historical buildings and monuments. The many statues and monuments along the strip in the middle of Sturt Street serve to commemorate important figures and events in local and national history.
與Lydiard Street成直角的Sturt Street，是市內另一條大道，隨了是連接巴拉瑞特至墨爾本和維多利亞州其他城鎮的公路之一段外，沿路也有不少歷史性建築，馬路中央的草坪，擺放了不同的人像和碑，紀念當地和澳洲的重要人物和大事。

The start of Sturt Street, marked by an antique lamp post
Sturt Street的開端有一座古色古香的街燈



Ballarat Town Hall 巴拉瑞特市政廳

After the guided tour, I slowly made my way away from the city centre to the shores of the Wendouree Lake. It was a world of peace and quiet to be enjoyed by humans and birds alike. Many swans and other water fowls were either lazing about on land or paddling leisurely close to the shore, while the middle of the lake saw a few yachts sailing casually. The far end of the Lake was where the Botanical Gardens of Ballarat. While it was not a particularly large place, it was filled with plenty of trees more than a century old, lining up impressively and forming a tall green wall along the paths in the garden. They are another testament to the history of Ballarat, much like those buildings of yesteryears in Ballarat’s city centre.
導賞團後，一步步離開巴拉瑞特市中心，到Wendouree湖畔，便進入了一片寧靜的天地，近岸聚了憩息和游弋的天鵝和水鴨，湖中央則揚帆點點，好一片悠閑的景緻，不論人或鳥都自得其樂。在湖離市區較遠的一端，是巴拉瑞特的植物公園，地方雖不算大，卻種滿了過百年的大樹，沿著公園路徑兩旁拔地而起，與天比高，和巴拉瑞特市內的古式建築一樣，也是時間的見證。

City Oval and its classical spectator stand
城市球場及其古典的看台



The leisurely Wendouree Lake 悠閑的Wendouree湖

A portrait of my younger days
童稚時的情景

One of the several fountains in the Botanical Gardens
植物公園內的其中一個噴水池



Reaching for the sky 真真正正的「百年樹木」

Having spent the time living and travelling in Europe, I must admit that I was rather impressed by the historical heritage on display in Ballarat and the conservation effort behind it. Talking to friends at the wedding, I found out that there were several more small towns that have preserved the heritage from the gold-rush era, and perhaps I should pay a visit to those places too.
在歐洲生活和旅遊過多年，沒想到在澳洲也可看到這麼多歷史古蹟，而且保留得如此完好。在婚禮時跟其他朋友說起，他們說維多利亞州還有好些小鎮，保留了當年淘金熱時代維多利亞式的古蹟，如果將來可以到那些地方一遊就好了。

The biggest problem of research 研究的最大難題

2011-05-10T21:49:00.002+10:00

The Australian federal government budget was announced tonight. There were very few surprises and excitements, particularly because many of the most important points have already been reported in a newspaper yesterday. I was however most interested in how medical research funding fared in the budget.
今晚澳洲聯邦政府公布財政預算案，其實箇中重點，昨日已有報紙詳細披露，我最關心的，倒是政府有沒有削減醫學研究開支。

Back in the end of March when the federal government was in the consultation phase for the budget, it was already rumoured that the government planned to cut A$400 million (US$430 million, 300 million euros, HK$3.4 billion) of medical research funding over 3 years. If it were to go ahead, it would be a severe blow since it would represent a nearly 20% decrease of the A$700 million available to medical research every year!
記得三月底政府開始蒐集預算案意見時已傳出政府要填補赤字，並考慮三年內削減醫學研究撥款4億澳元（約4.3億美元、3億歐元、34億港元），若落實的話，相對於每年7億澳元的經費，即是每年的研究經費會勁減差不多兩成！

Even without mentioning the benefit of medical research to the Australian economy and the society’s well-being, there are reasons why medical research funding deserves to be maintained. Research funding proposals typically have to be assessed in rounds by peers and other experts before formal approval by the health minister. It is arguably the most heavily scrutinised form of public funding, and there are further mechanisms to prevent wastage. The low funding success rate of 23% last year would also serve to remind researchers that their money is not easy to come by. The $400 million cut means a lot to the research community, but it is actually not terribly significant in the whole budget. Indeed the government does not need to think or work too hard to recuperate this amount from reducing other expenses and wastes, as shown in the various budget-saving measures that were eventually put forward in the budget. The government have probably thought that researchers were easy targets at the beginning!
且勿論醫學研究對澳洲社稷和經濟的貢獻，研究撥款經同儕和專家重重審批，最終還要得到衛生部長簽名批准，可算是各種政府撥款中最嚴格的，確保一分一毫都用得其所，事實上去年醫學研究撥款申請的成功率祇得23%，便可知研究經費得來不易。4億澳元對研究界是筆大數目，但對整個政府來說實在何足掛齒，祇要稍動腦筋，適度壓縮其他開支和減少浪費都不止此數，有大花筒不打反而針對老老實實的醫學研究界實在說不過去！

But we showed the government the contrary. My workplace in conjunction with other institutes set up a ‘Discoveries Needs Dollars. Protect Medical Research’ campaign, and organised rallies in Melbourne and other major cities around Australia to protest against funding cuts. The rally in Melbourne took place on 12th April in the square in front of the State Library of Victoria. The day started with heavy rain and strong winds, but thankfully we were spared during the rally with 2 hours of sunshine. It was a nice gesture by the heavens who would know that we went on the protest for a good purpose. It was a rare scene to see scientists marching from their workplaces to the rally and congregating in one place in a sea of white laboratory coats, but we indeed hope that the scene will never have to be repeated.
敝研究所上個月聯同其他研究所，在墨爾本和澳洲其他城市發動集會，呼籲政府手下留情。墨爾本的集會在4月12日於州立圖書館廣場舉行，當日早上還有狂風暴雨，但到中午集會時放晴兩小時，算是上天眷顧我們這些有心人了。一眾穿著實驗白袍的研究員，浩浩蕩蕩從工作場所走到集會地點，後還站滿整個廣場，這個景象難得一見——當然我們也希望以後不會重演。

Even the laboratory mouse has joined in!
連實驗白老鼠也加入行動！

Apart from the rally, many colleagues have written to the local members of parliament while prominent scientists have talked directly to the senior ministers. Our efforts are fortunately not wasted, as the budget has left medical funding alone although some other types of research funding has been trimmed back slightly. Our worst fear has not happened for now, but a new problem is looming ahead. There is funding uncertainty for the Australian Synchrotron in Melbourne, a facility that specialises in producing various types of radiation for a multitude of research uses. The Victorian state government funded its construction itself and underwritten 5 years of its operational funding together with the federal government. The funding is due to expire in June 2012, but in the state budget announced last week (applicable from July 2011 to June 2012) there was no mention of how the operational funding of the Australian Synchrotron would continue after the current funding runs out. Researchers are quite rightly worried, as one year is not necessarily a long time when it is marred with political wrangling, dealing and lobbying. The fight for government funding for research is hardly over yet.
除了集會，不少同儕也去函自己選區的議員，各研究所高層亦積極向政府聯邦高層遊說，可幸功夫並無白費，財政預算案並無向醫學研究撥款開刀，惟有些其他的研究撥款就減了一點，我們的最壞打算並無降臨。一波剛平，科研界又要有新的煩惱，由維多利亞州政府斥資興建的同步輻射設施（Australian Synchrotron，專門製造適合不同研究的多種輻射射線），07年落成後州政府聯同聯邦政府為其撥出5年的營運經費直至明年6月，但州政府有上週公布的本州預算案對該設施的未來撥款隻字不提，令人擔心明年州政府不會繼續支持其營運經費。一年時間看似很長，但政治游說或談判往往持曠日久，醫學研究撥款的抗爭剛落幕，難道科研界又要準備另一場抗爭？

Simply Red 當紅的秋

2011-05-05T21:41:00.001+10:00

The most eye-catching colour of autumn is red, and it is everywhere to be seen.
秋天最奪目的顏色，是紅色，祇要舉頭張望便四處可見。

You can even see red in the sky!
萬里長空中的一點紅

April had plenty of days when there wasn’t a cloud in the blue skies and the weather was still warm. What better ways are there to spend those times than casually sauntering in the quiet streets – even the courtyard within the National Gallery of Victoria in the heart of the city. Time seems to slow to a lazy pace in the golden but gentle rays of the autumn sun and the tranquil surroundings, as if it were trying to stretch those beautiful days out as long as possible.
四月有不少日子藍天一片萬里無雲而且和暖，我當然不會放過這些好時光，在柔和的陽光下到寂靜人寥的街道閒逛——甚至是市中心維多利亞州國立藝術館內的庭園——不禁有種懶洋洋的感覺，也教人留戀秋天的美好。

An oasis of tranquility 繁囂中的一點悠閑

Autumn through a water wall
隔着水簾的秋色

Back at the start of April, two of the maple trees in my neighbourhood took the lead and started displaying a finely graded colour transition from green at the bottom to red at the top. The brilliant colour contrast delighted the hearts of many passers-by who paused to marvel at the view.
舍下附近有一兩棵楓樹，早在四月初已偷步化新妝，紅透半邊天，樹頂的紅色在樹冠底的綠色襯托下份外鮮明，樂透了駐足欣賞的遊人。

Colour palette au naturel 天然漸進色

Another tree putting on a good show
不讓楓樹專美

The maples that started their transformations late were decidedly not to be outdone. On a main street near my institute, a row of smaller maples turned completely into various shades of red, much like youths desperate to follow the latest trend but determined to be different at the same time. Those trees have given the street some much needed bright colours and life.
到最近才開始轉紅的楓樹亦不徨多讓，研究所附近的一條大街有一列小楓樹，不但整棵通紅，而且每棵都披上獨特的紅色，一眼望過去，就像幾個趕時髦一同穿了顏色差不多的服裝的人，既想顯示自己入流卻又要與別不同，令街道生色不少。

Other trees followed suit and put on a red colour in their own ways. I happened to come across a persimmon tree in the neighbourhood near my institute during a casual lunch time stroll just before Easter. Back then most of the persimmons were still green, but one week later all the fruit have ripened and become attractively red-orange. It was only too tempting to pick some and try!
添上紅色的不止是楓樹，研究所附近的寧靜小區，復活節前讓我發現掛滿了綠柿的柿樹，事隔一週便全盤變熟，一個個橙紅色的掛滿全樹，煞是誘人，但不知甜不甜？

A few Victorian-style houses near the institute have probably taken cue from nature, and one day they caught my attention with their freshly painted deep burgundy fences. The paint job did not only match the autumn sea of red but also helped to restore some former glory and charm to these classical residences.
連研究所附近的幾家古典住宅也受大自然感染，圍欄都新髹上了沉實的酒紅色，配合入秋換紅裝的潮流，令人眼前一亮，也為這些房子回復原來的古典味和氣質。

The red maple leaves would not last forever, and before long they would senesce, turn brown and be scattered everywhere with the wind. While those leaves are a pain to clean up, some managed to see an artistic side of them. A water wall in the city is where those people can put their artistic talent into action by pasting the dried leaves into words. When I saw it one evening, I joined in the fun and made the Chinese character for autumn, which I thought was quite appropriate for the times. Like the red maple leaves, these pieces of impromptu art will be washed away with time, but like many other things in life, their momentary existence is enough to give us joy and our surroundings some much needed variety. It is a matter of keeping our senses open to wonders of life like these and capturing their best moments before they are gone.紅葉祇是一瞬間的事，轉眼又化為枯葉，大風一颳撒遍大地，對不少民居來說，掃一地落葉是苦差一樁，不過有人懂得把其轉化為藝術一種，某晚在市中心逛街時便看到行人在一堵流水牆上用枯葉貼砌出不同的字，我也即興砌出一個應景的中文字。流水牆的葉，早晚也會被水沖走，但貼砌的過程會給人帶來滿足感，也為都市加添美感，正如紅葉仍未枯前，便得把握時機，欣賞和捕捉那一陣美好時刻。

Früh oder spät? Tôt ou tard? Early or late? 早或遲？

2011-04-25T21:43:00.000+10:00

(DE/FR/EN/中文)

Zur Hausausgabe des deutschen Sprachkurses muss jeder einen Witz erzählen. Hier ist meiner:

Ein Deutscher hat mit seinem italienischen Kunden verabredet, dass sie sich um 9 Uhr in der Betriebscafeteria treffen. Der Deutsche ist pünktlich angekommen, an einem Tisch gesitzen und hat auf den Italiener halbe Stunde lange gewartet, aber musste er denn fortgehen, weil er viele andere Dinge zu tun hat. Der Italiener kam um 10 Uhr in die Cafeteria, konnte den Deutschen nicht sehen, und bei ihm dachte: Ich muss zu früh angekommen sein!

Comme devoir du cours allemand tous doivent raconter une blague. C'est mienne:

Un Allemand a pris un rendez-vous avec un Italien chez la cafétéria au travail à 9h. L'allemand est arrivé à l'heure, s'est assis à une table et a attendu l'italien pendant une demi-heure, mais il devait partir parce qu'il a beaucoup des autres choses à faire. L'italien est arrivé à 10h à la cafétéria, ne pouvait pas voir l'allemand et pensait lui-même: je dois être arrivé trop tôt!

As homework for the German course everyone has to tell a joke. Here is my contribution:

A German has made an appointment with his Italian client to meet in the cafeteria at work at 9. The German arrived on time, sat at a table and waited for the Italian for half an hour, but then had to go away because he had a lot of other things to do. The Italian arrived at the cafeteria at 10, could not see the German and thought to himself: I must have come too early!

德語班做功課，每人得講笑話一則，我的如下：

一個德國人約了其意大利客人9點在工作間的咖啡室見面，那個德國人準時到了咖啡室，坐在一張桌子等那意大利人等了半句鐘，但因有很多其他事情要辦便離開不再等。那意大利人10點才到咖啡室，沒見到那德國人，便心想：我定是早到了！

When leisure is a luxury 年中無休

2011-04-22T16:14:00.004+10:00

Hong Kong is well known for its intense and pressurising work conditions. Now a survey on the finance, accounting and human resources sectors in Hong Kong, Singapore, Australia and New Zealand has added weight to this reputation. Many employees would stay in contact and continue working through their supposedly ‘leisure’ times, while many employers expect the employees to be reachable outside normal working hours.

The hard-working ethic is no doubt a cornerstone of Hong Kong’s economic success, and working long hours and being constantly in touch with colleagues or bosses are facts of life when there are deadlines to meet. But when Hong Kong employers become over-reliant on placing exigent demands on employees all the time, one has to wonder if they have overlooked other important factors in lifting workplace performance and business competitiveness, such as improving efficiencies in certain processes or the overall workflow.

There are many other effects of such demanding workloads. The employers have conveniently forgotten that their employees have a life outside work. In fact, the time outside work may not be a leisure after all but is filled with work of other kinds such as housework and family matters. When Hong Kong’s news talk about how much more the lowest-paid would earn with the introduction of minimum wages, the calculations are based on working 10-hour days for 26 days out of a month. I can’t help to wonder if those people actually have enough time to tend to their household, let alone to have adequate rest.

Work is not only about being occupied all the time. The time set aside for reviewing what has been done and planning ahead is equally important if not more important, such as in my field of scientific research. Even when the employees are outside work, many would undoubtedly still think of work at some stage, and such a time can be really valuable.

It is not uncommon to hear in Hong Kong’s news that hospital or university staff lose USB sticks containing patients’ or students’ personal particulars on their way home. There were two such cases in the last week alone. It does not matter how stringent the workplace guidelines are or how severe the disciplinary action would be, and even if Hong Kong people would become as meticulous as the Japanese or as precautious as the Germans overnight, these incidences would continue to happen as long as the staff have to carry such data home. There should be no compelling reason to do so as the privacy of personal information is paramount, unless the staff have no choice, such as when they have excessive workload or are under pressure from their bosses.

An Australian friend whom I knew from my lab in Munich and who subsequently found a job in a technology firm in Switzerland once told me that the firm would not allow its employees to stay at the workplace beyond work hours and check work e-mail outside work. One may wonder why that firm has gone to such extreme of being staff-friendly; the firm is in fact more concerned that sensitive or secret information may be leaked if the staff are allowed to work outside supervision, but this has an obvious side benefit to the staff as well.

Hong Kong employees deserve proper breaks free of work. I wish that they have one during the Easter holidays or are properly compensated in lieu if they still have to work!

趁放假寫一個「應節」的話題。

昨日《明報》有兩則新聞，看似互不相干，實則一脈相承。

瑪麗遺失病童資料USB
港老闆多要求隨時候命亞太4區調查

今日又有報導謂，大學職員遺失載有學生資料的USB。員工在下班途中遺失USB已屢見不鮮，那怕工作場所的指引有多嚴謹、處分有多嚴厲，就算香港人一夜間變得像日本人般細心或德國人般謹慎，也是徒然，問題徵結是為何要把大量個人資料帶離工作場所，唯一的理由，就是回家後仍要工作，可是個人資料的隱私至為重要，若非必要也不應帶走，是不是員工工作量太大或應上司要求趕工？

有調查發現香港金融、會計及人力資源行業的員工「下班後」和「放假時」普遍要繼績工作隨時候命，雖然其他行業的情況如何我可不清楚，卻足以反映不少打工仔的工作壓力。有分析說「隨時候命及願長時間工作，原是本港競爭力所在，不能說是錯」，但香港企業是否太倚重透過員工長時間工作換取競爭力，而忽略提升工作效率或改善工作流程？工作趕急時，下班後仍要聯絡員工的確無可厚非，但太濫的話，則是漠視員工的公餘生活，員工往往都有家室，就算下班後不用做上班的事情，也會有家務、家事和其他的工作操心。（所以我看新聞為低層員工計算最低工資實行後的月薪，是以每日工作10小時、每月26天為準，我也替他們辛苦，那些人可能連處理家中大小事也不一定夠時間，何來會休息得好？）再者下班後有時也會回想上班的事情和部署翌日的工作（例如我便會這樣做），抽空檢討和規劃工作，實在是工作重要的一環，亦有助增加工作效率，不是時時刻刻忙過不停才算是工作、對工作有貢獻。

我在德國的實驗室認識到的一個澳洲人，後來到瑞士某科技公司工作，該公司規定員工在辦公時間後不可留在辦公室，下班後也不准查看電郵，你也會問為何有如此優差，其實公司是不想機密和敏感資料在工作時間外洩漏，但員工也因此受惠，公司和員工都雙贏。

祝願香港打工仔，這幾天不用上班的可擱下工作，好好休息，仍要上班的則獲得應有的補償。

The Power of We

2011-04-19T23:01:00.005+10:00

No, this is not an advertisement for an insurance company.

It’s just an interesting finding when I ran a content analysis of my blog and had the most frequent words presented in a word cloud – the larger the word and more centrally it is positioned, the more frequently it appeared. (Try this analysis too if you like.)

To my surprise, the word that stood out loud and clear in the middle of the cloud is We, followed by My and a lot of words concerning time and quantity. Even the word timely ranked very highly, although I wonder why as I haven’t used that word that often.

Some bloggers who used it say that the word cloud is a reflection of the type of person you are, but I think it’s also a consequence of my blog topics.

I do care about time and always want to make sure that things run to plan and schedules as much as possible. These qualities probably can make life a little too regimented and dull, but they are indispensable when doing a lot of travelling, since there is always the next plane or train to catch as well as the opening hours to watch for. I couldn’t have written so many travel blogs if I haven’t paid attention or remembered the sequence of events!

I was also surprised that ‘work’ hasn’t been one of the top words. Perhaps I am after all a lazy soul or couldn’t care much about work! Well no, au contraire, and quite a few posts are related to work albeit not directly on what I’m actually working on or anything scientific, otherwise I’ll bore you and myself writing this blog!

Although by my own nature and the nature of my work that I am sometimes trapped in my own little world, I enjoy the company of my family, friends and colleagues. I am ever so grateful to them for spending time with me, sharing interesting experiences together at home or on the road, and most importantly they have been a constant source of inspiration for my blog. Your insights, opinion, witty comments and interesting conversations have broadened ,my horizons and inspired me on many of my posts. Inspiration is what a writer needs to write something purposeful and meaningful.

Keep it going, The Power of We!

The Power of We ——我當然不是為某保險公司賣廣告啦！

而是我最近跟兩個網友的推介，分析敝網誌的最常用詞彙，結果以「字雲」方式顯示，愈接近中心、字體愈大的，使用的次數愈多。（如有興趣大家也可試用此分析。）

我萬沒想到，我使用得最多的是「我們」這個詞（雖然不及英文的We大，可能因為中文有「我們」和「大家」兩詞，而且中文使用代名詞一般不像英文那樣頻密），最常用的英文字中，有好幾個與時間和數量有關的字，中文方面，「廣場」和「教堂」的出現率也是我意想不到的，大家可別以為我信耶穌啊，這是因為一來網誌以往偏向寫遊記，二來則是這兩個詞在英文有好幾個對應字，例如「教堂」英文便有church、cathedral、chapel等。

我寫英文時，關於時間的字和其他連接詞用得多，一則是英文（和不少歐洲語言）結構比中文緊湊得多，較強調句字之間的關係，再加上寫的是遊記，時間次序便份外分明；二則可能反映我這個人的時間觀念比較強吧，無論工作或生活中的事情往往都依從時間，雖然會令生活有點刻板，但像我一樣久不久便會遠行，搭車、坐飛機和參觀景點都得依時依候，旅程後寫遊記也要記得甚麼時候做過甚麼到過那裡，所以時間觀念是不少得的。

對於「工作」這個詞沒上榜，我的確有點不解，你們也或許覺得我不務正業吧！雖然我甚少直接寫自己的工作（就算寫了我定會把你們悶倒！）但網誌不少題材都是圍繞工作場所和同事的。

儘管我本身性格使然，而工作性質也令我往往獨處於自己的小小世界中，但其實跟別人相處的時候是我最高興和珍惜的，不論是家人、朋友和同事，與他們分享生活中的一點一滴、所見所聞，不祇可增進關係，也拓寬了我的眼界，這些交流往往更是寫作的靈感泉源，你們對事物的看法、意見和感想，都豐潤了我網誌的內容，也驅動我不斷的寫作。

這就是「我們」給我的力量！

Some fun news on Pommesfritesland! 娛人節特稿——薯條國

2011-04-01T23:15:00.006+11:00

People of Pommesfritesland started a Pommes Frites revolution back in February to demand the political parties of that country to work together to form a government. However, things have since then taken a turn for the worse and the political parties plunged deeper and deeper into disagreement. The only thing that they could agree on was to split the country into two along the ethnic and cultural boundary.
薯條國國民發動「薯條革命」，原意是促使各政黨儘快組成聯合政府，但事與願違，政治談判不但無成果，各黨反而愈吵愈烈，最終決定於4月1日把國家按民族和語言分界一分為二。

The news took the world by surprise, and many Pommesfritesland citizens only found out when they were denied entry upon arrival in a foreign country because their country was no longer existent. Those already abroad faced the problem of being stranded because their passports and nationality were no longer recognised. They would have to stay put until the arrangements for the separation of Pommesfritesland are finalised and new passports can be issued. The United Nations described it as the largest peace-time refugee crisis for any developed countries.
由於事出突然，不少出國的薯條國國民待抵達外國被拒入境時才知道國家已不存在，要原機折回出發地，已身處外國的薯條國國民則因證件失效、失去國籍而頓時成為難民，要暫時滯留外國，直至薯條國分裂的細節敲定後，簽發新證件後才能出境。聯合國形容，這是已發展國家在和平時代發生的最大規模難民事故。

Despite the abrupt separation, neighbouring countries have actually braced themselves for this eventuality as Pommesfritesland has been in political limbo for such a long time. Tulipland announced that it could assume sovereignty over the Tuplispeak region of Pommesfritesland, while the Tulipland Post is ready to extend its service into Pommesfritesland at any time. While everyone knows that the 4-digit postcodes of Tulipland start from 1000, Tulipland Post said that it has always reserved 0000 to 0999 for Pommesfritesland and issue those postcodes to Pommesfritesland immediately. On the other side of Pommesfritesland, Champagneland was working out the logistics of accepting the 4 million people from the Champagnespeak region of Pommesfritesland. But this should not be too onerous a task for Champagneland as the 4 million intake was relatively minor in proportion to its 60 million population, and Champagneland has a long history of expanding its borders and ruling over increasing numbers of people from all over the world.
薯條國分裂雖然來得突然，但鄰國因為薯條國長期無政府兼政治膠著狀態而一早作好準備，其中鬱金香國表示可隨時接管薯條國鬱金香語區，鬱金香國郵政亦準備好可以把薯條國郵政馬上納入其服務範圍，大家一向都不知，鬱金香國的4位數字郵政編碼，一直由1000開始，0000至0999原來是預留給薯條國的，薯條國可即日使用鬱金香國郵編。薯條國另一邊的鄰居香檳國，對於要收容四百多萬薯條國香檳語區的居民也作好部署，對於有六千萬人口的香檳國，歷史上曾大舉擴張版圖、吸納或收容五湖四海的人，現在增收四百多萬人不是個太大的數目，應駕輕就熟。

Pommesfritesland products also faced an identity crisis as they were no longer allowed to be labelled as such. Vendors were frantically searching for alternate means of labelling, but they need not look too hard. After all, the national food of Pommesfritesland provides a good example to follow. Many people may not know that potato chips actually originate from Pommesfritesland not Champagneland (so much for the misnomer from America …) but the proper name for potato chips in Pommesfritesland can also be called ‘Vlaamse Frites’ (i.e. chips from the Tulipspeak region) alongside ‘Pommesfriteslandse Frites’ (i.e. chips from Pommesfritesland). So vendors would only need to find out whether the product originated from the Tulipspeak or Champagnespeak region of Pommesfritesland and amend the labelling accordingly.
薯條國出口產品也面對類似的「身份危機」，由於已經國不成國，那些貨品再不能標明是「薯條國產品」，一眾商家都煩惱如何改掉商品標示，不過其實有例可循：很多人未必知道，薯條國其實是薯條的發源地，但薯條在薯條國的正式名稱，除「薯條國薯條」外亦可稱為「弗拉芒薯條」（即鬱金香語區薯條），商家祇要查出商品的出產地屬於鬱金香語區抑或香檳語區，然後改名便可。

Pommesfritesland citizens were probably the least surprised of all and have even become insensitive to this turn of events since the issue has simply lasted for too long. Many from the Pommesfritesland capital described it as a divorce of a couple who were forcibly married but just could not get on with each other, and considered that it may lead to a happier, more normal life and relationship between the two. Others viewed Pommesfritesland as the microcosm of the hotchpotch of 27 countries which were squabbling over all things big and small in its capital city all the time, and what has happened to Pommesfritesland may forestall the future of this union. Everyone in Pommesfritesland hoped that the separation of their ‘country’ would be resolved cleanly and looked forward to new lives with new identities.
薯條國國民對事態發展不感意外，甚至有點麻林，畢竟事件擾攘太久，正如不少薯條國首都居民所說，該國一直就像一對被迫撮合的男女，但勉強無幸福，分手對雙方都可能更合適、更幸福。也有當地居民認為，在薯條國首都每天都在上演27國為不同大小事吵吵鬧鬧的鬧劇，薯條國的遭遇祇是那27國的縮影，也預視著那27國的未來。薯條國舉國都希望，這次分裂能妥妥當當的解決，好讓大家都有個新身份過新生活。

The art of keeping everyone happy 不分貴賤‧不分貧富

2011-03-28T00:12:00.005+11:00

Australia has a place called the Surfers’ Paradise; very soon it will add another place called the workers’ paradise! So what is keeping everyone happy?

Firstly there is the rather generous minimum wage of more than A$ 15 (approx. US$ 16, 11 euros, HK$ 120) per hour, which is among the best in the world. There is also the labour union which will campaign for a higher minimum wage regularly. While the minimum wages in many countries are set at subsistence level, in Australia it is clearly more than that – an hour’s minimum wage will enable the worker to buy a typical meal in a fast food chain with a comfortable amount of money to spare. Australia’s minimum wage can indeed provide a basic guarantee of livelihood and dignity to the worker.

Also unlike many other countries, the other end of the pay scale is not monopolised by those working in the government and big corporations. Notably, many are tradespersons or are involved in manual work. When I had a chat with a neighbour some time ago, he was clearly staggered by how much some of those people charge for some seemingly simple jobs. He said that they would take their job easy, have tea, talk, do a few things, and after not even half an hour, they would hand out a bill worth hundreds of dollars! If you want to earn more, you had better pay attention to a survey released last week: chefs, barge welders and even laundry hands working at offshore mining facilities on a 4-week on, 2-week off basis would earn at least A$ 420k per annum (approx. US$ 430k, 300k euros). The Australian Prime Minister, politicians and senior government officials can only look on with glee and jealousy. These high wages are actually a worry to the broader economy. The Australian mining industry has undergone a major boom thanks to the robust economies of China and many developing countries, and has a particularly strong demand for labour. Those companies are willing to and can afford to be competitive in the labour market by offering much better pay, but this in turn puts a lot of pressure on other industries. Some would consider it ridiculous that a barge welder can earn more than the prime minister, but this just shows that good pay is not the preserve of government and big corporations in Australia.

A society that keeps its lowest paid in good stead and allows more than a selected few to break into the highest-paid echelon will easily – and surely – keep everyone happy. Looking around the whole world, how can it not be called a workers’ paradise?

「職業不分貴賤」此話，在中國人社會早已淪為空談，在澳洲卻得到充分實現！

一來澳洲的最低工資不俗，時薪15澳元多（約港幣$120、16美元、11歐元），不僅位於世界前列，而且有工會定期爭取加薪。試想以香港的最低工資（5月1日起實施，時薪港幣$28，即約3.5澳元、3.6美元、2.5歐元），做滿一小時也不一定買得起快餐店的套餐，在澳洲不祇絕對可以，還會有錢剩下來，由此可看出澳洲最低工資者生活也有一定基本的保證和尊嚴。

二來我們中國人一向瞧不起的技工類或體力勞動工作，在西方國家可吃香，在澳洲尤甚，前陣子跟鄰居聊天，鄰居便隨便舉了三數例，那些上門修理、安裝甚麼的，「行行企企」、優游自在的做些簡單功夫，不消半小時，便盛惠幾百澳元！如想賺得更好的，上週便有薪酬調查指出，「一登離岸磡探台身價十倍」，每次離岸連續工作四週後休假兩週的廚師、燒焊工人甚至洗衣幫工，年薪最少42萬澳元（約336萬港元、43萬美元、30萬歐元），連日理萬機的澳洲總理及一眾官員也望塵莫及！

天價薪金背後不無隱憂，近年澳洲礦務開採受惠於中國和其他發展中國家的經濟增長而欣欣向榮，對勞工特別渴求，那些公司都不惜高薪請人，對其他行業的薪金帶來壓力。也有人說燒焊工人的年薪比澳洲總理還要高，實在有點荒謬，但這也說明了在澳洲社會，「打工皇帝」不一定是政府或大公司高層的專利。既然高薪階層沒有壟斷，最低薪者的收入也有充份的保障，大家可不用時刻計較自己職業的地位高低了。

* * *

When the government decides to hand out money to the society because of a massive budgetary windfall, the news should normally be very well received all round. But in Hong Kong, it’s turned into a mess!

In the face of a massive HK$ 70 billion (A$ 8.75 billion, US$ 9.0 billion, 6.4 billion euros) surplus, the Hong Kong government at first refused any mass handout fearing fuelling inflation, but later bulged under political pressure to give HK$ 6000 (A$ 750, US$ 770, 540 euros) to all permanent residents over 18 years of age regardless of how much they earn and whether they are actually currently residing in Hong Kong. In so doing, the new immigrants – many of whom needier than the general population – have missed out and were naturally none too pleased. The government then decided to extend the cash payment to the new immigrants as long as they first satisfy some means testing. But this smacks of officially-sanctioned discrimination, in a society that is starting to show strains of internal divisions. Need the government give a ‘helping hand’ on this?

During the previous term of government, there was a joke on how the former Chief Executive (the head of Hong Kong’s administration) was deciding to distribute the $100 in hand to make everyone happy while on a helicopter flight over Hong Kong. He discussed with others as to whether it would be best to drop one $100 note, two $50 notes, ten $10 notes or one hundred $1 coins, but in the end those on the flight decided that tossing him over board was the best option. Of course the former Chief Executive did not have the pleasure of actually distributing any money to the public during his term, but when this term of government has the opportunity to do so, it has turned such a blessing into a curse unto itself. So now what are the options?

政府有盈餘而向民眾派錢，本是皆大歡喜之事，在香港卻搞得一團糟！

事緣政府起初因不想刺激通脹而拒絕派錢，但屈服於政治壓力後決定向所有18歲以上的永久居民——不分貧富、不分居港年期——派港幣$6000，卻遺忘了新來港移民——他們當中低收入者為數不少，到現在又決定新移民接受入息審查後合資格的也可獲$6000。政府為何對永久居民如此慷慨卻對新移民銖錙必較，實在令人費解，香港社會分化夠多了，可需政府再插一刀？

董伯伯年代，曾有笑話揶揄他乘直升機視察香港時盤算如何分派手中的一百元最令大眾開心，究竟是擲一張百元鈔票、兩張五十元、十張十元或百枚一元硬幣好，結果機上其他人一舉把他擲出機外，說這才令大眾最開心。這回派錢，決策之草率、粗疏、反覆和矛盾真不知是可笑或是兒戲，甚至沒有令人人開心，莫非唯一解決方法，就是……

A fleeting summer 站腳不穩的夏天

2011-03-21T23:50:00.002+11:00

This summer seems shorter than usual, not only because I spent most of January in Germany and Hong Kong and thus experienced an extra winter (although I am hopeful that I can be compensated!) but also because the weather is indeed cooler than the previous summers. Stretches of days above 30 degrees were few and far in between, and more often were the days with grey skies, dreary rain and cool temperatures. No wonder another German colleague and I both felt some semblance to a typical German summer.
這個夏天好像比正常短，除了因為我一月大部你時間到了德國和香港，平白多過了一個冬天外（雖然我是有希望可以補償的！）天氣也的確比前幾個夏天清涼，連續幾天高於30度的日子絕無僅有，更多的是天灰灰雨綿綿「涼浸浸」的時候，我和另一個德國同事都不期然覺得有點像德國的夏天。

The whole summer has kept me occupied as my time was always filled up with things to do even after work. Fortunately there was still time to take some diversions.
整個夏天，就算工娛都忙這忙那，時間排得密密麻麻的，幸好也有可以忙裡偷閑的時候。

Last summer my family went quite a long way for picking strawberries; this summer we went instead to a farm belonging to one of my cousin’s colleagues for the cherries and blackberries right after Christmas.
上個夏天我們一家跑到老遠採紅草莓（港稱士多啤梨），今個夏天我們剛過了聖誕則光顧了表姐有個同事的櫻桃（港稱車厘子）和黑莓園。

Located in Mount Dandenong, the farm was in fact a backyard but with quite a sizeable operation, as there was even a workshop for packing cherries and blackberries into punnets for sale in supermarkets. It was a rare chance for city folks like us to re-connect with nature. At least it was my first time seeing what a cherry tree was like and reminded me that the blackberry was more than just a smart phone.
果園位於丹頂農山，其實是那個同事的後園，卻頗有規模，連家中也自設工場，把櫻桃和黑莓包裝賣到超市。我們這些城市人，能得有機會接觸大自然，櫻桃樹是怎麼樣我還是第一次看到，採黑莓時我也感概，另類的黑莓我聽也聽得多了，那天倒是提醒我甚麼才是真正的黑莓。

Views in the farm 果園景色



Fruitful outcomes 碩果纍纍

Came mid-February, my parents were back in Hong Kong so I had to find ways to entertain myself. On a Saturday when I went to visit a friend, I took a detour to the Abbotsford Convent. It was rather easy to forget that the Convent was actually not too far away from a major road, But once inside the hustle and bustle outside were nowhere to be heard or seen, and a spacious tranquil world opened up in front of me. There was also a restaurant in the convent with an alfresco dining and seating area. It felt a bit like Germany except that home-brewed beer was missing!
過了二月中，家中兩老都回了香港，自己一個人得找點消遣，一個星期六，趁去探朋友，途中繞道往Abbotsford修道院參觀一下。修道院其實離大馬路不遠，但一走進去，車水馬龍變成鳥語花香，走進修道院的花園，更令人頓時忘記外面的繁囂，所以不期然令我想起志蓮淨院。修道院還開了餐廳，擺了露天餐桌，供遊人閒坐吃東西，有點德國修道院的味道，祇可惜祇欠自家釀製的啤酒！

Thanks to the plentiful rainfall, this summer has been one of the rarer ones when the vegetation still looks lush green and many flowers are blooming. Hopefully this is a harbinger for better things to come for the rest of the year after such a tumultuous start!
這個夏天水頭充足，草和樹都難得綠油油，不少花也爭着綻放，令四周生色不少，但願今年經歷種種天災人禍後，會百花齊放、花開富貴！

Konstanzly beautiful 初到博登湖——康斯坦茨

2011-03-09T22:37:00.003+11:00

In the middle weekend of my work trip in Munich in January, spring has made an unusual appearance. The sunshine and the warmth swept away the depressingly cold days and grey skies. On the Sunday I went for a jog near my work place and everyone else in the neighbourhood were out in force in the streets and in the parks to enjoy such a reprieve. It surprised me as I have never seen so many people in the neighbourhood before!
一月在慕尼黑公幹時，中間的週末突然大地回春，陽光和暖意把冬天的嚴寒和鬱悶一掃而空，那個週末的星期日，我在研究所附近跑了大半小時，街道和公園到處都是人，彷彿所有居民都空巢而出，我從來都沒有在那一帶見到這麼多人呢！

And on the Saturday (15th January), I took advantage of a visit by a former Hong Kong colleague as she wanted to visit her former colleagues in Konstanz (Constance) that weekend. I decided to join her and visit Konstanz on a day trip. Although it took more than 4 hours each way by train, the chance and the pleasant weather were simply too good to waste.
星期六那天（1月15日），趁一個從英國來德國匆匆一遊的舊香港同事要往康斯坦茨（Konstanz）探她的舊同事，我也搭上「順風車」跟她同行——其實我們並沒有開車，祇是坐火車而已。雖然車程要四小時多，但如此好天氣，不出去逛逛就浪費了。

Some views from the train as it approached Konstanz
火車快到達康斯坦茨時的景色

It was just past midday when we arrived. The two locals welcomed us to their place, and after a brief chat we set out to the old town.
抵達時剛過中午，兩個主人家帶我和香港同事到他們家中，招呼一會後，我們四人便一同到舊城區逛逛。

Konstanz is literally just a stone’s throw away from Switzerland, and the national border is actually not that far from the old town. During World War II, Konstanz decided to keep its lights on during the nights like Switzerland to avoid being bombed by the Allies. The old town was as a result very well kept with plenty of 600- to 700-year-old buildings still intact.
康斯坦茨毗鄰瑞士，舊城區不遠便是邊境，二次大戰時，康斯坦茨有別於德國其他城市，晚上跟瑞士一樣亮燈，免受盟軍空襲，所以舊城區保持挺完好，六、七百年前的建築比比皆是。

The Marktstätte shopping strip
Marktstätte購物街

One of the oldest buildings in Konstanz, built towards the end of the 13th century, formerly a fish market
康斯坦茨最歷史悠久的建築之一，於十三世紀未建成，前身是漁市場



A second life: a restaurant that used to be a castle (left), and a church that becomes a restaurant and furniture shop (right)
大變身！城堡變餐廳（左），教堂變餐廳和家具店（右）

One of the oldest buildings in Konstanz is its cathedral, which embodies a blend of architectural styles, stretching for several hundred years from the 9th to 10th century when the construction first started.
全城最歷史悠久的要算是大教堂，始建於9至10世紀，後來逐漸擴建，歷時數百年，所以教堂各部份都有不同的建築特色。

A side view of the cathedral
教堂的側面



The entrance (left) and nave (right) of the cathedral
教堂的正門（左）和正廳（右）

The crypt, the oldest part of the cathedral
地窖，教堂最古老的部份

The locals then led us on a walk to the shore of Bodensee (Lake Constance). The lake is surrounded by Germany, Switzerland and Austria, and the river Rhine flows through the lake. Konstanz is one of the largest cities around the lake. Little did I expect to spot a bus shelter in traditional Chinese architectural style! How is it possible to see proper Chinese architecture in Europe? The locals explained that Konstanz was a university town and had close exchanges with Shanghai. The bus shelter was in fact a gift by Shanghai.
接著主人家帶路到博登湖（Bodensee）畔散步，該湖由德國、瑞士及奧地利所環抱，萊茵河（Rhine）流經其中，康斯坦茨正是沿湖最大的城市之一。我們從舊城區過馬路到湖畔時，驀然發現一個中國色彩的公車亭，為甚麼一個歐洲城市會有如此正宗中式建築？主人家解釋道，康斯坦茨是個大學城，該大學跟上海有交流，所以上海方面便送了這個公車亭作禮物。

The pier commands a panoramic view of Bodensee and the Swiss Alps on the opposite shore. The house near the pier played host to an important event in the history of the Catholic Church, namely the Council of Constance from 1414 to 1418 where a widely recognised pope was finally elected, ending the so-called Western Schism when there was a triumvirate of popes with various claims of legitimacy. At the end of the pier stood the rotating statue of Imperia, who was holding the Pope in one hand and the Emperor in the other. The symbolism is in the eye of the beholder. Some considers it to symbolise men succumbing to woman, while it can also be taken to mean a mockery of the events during the Council of Constance.
博登湖的景色開揚，從湖邊的碼頭可遠眺對岸瑞士的阿爾卑斯雪山，碼頭附近的屋在基督教佔有一重要歷史地位，是1414年至1418年期間康斯坦茨會議（Council of Constance）時天主教選出教宗，結束教會內的分裂（欲知詳細歷史可參閱此網頁），碼頭端豎立了會旋轉的Imperia女神雕塑，女神一手托着教宗，另一手托着皇帝，既寓意位貴權重的人也會被美色玩弄於股掌之間，又諷刺當年康斯坦茨會議期間教會和多個皇室糾纏不清的一團糟。

The pier at the Bodensee
博登湖的碼頭

The old town from the lakefront
從湖畔回望舊城區



Religious significance at the pier: the Konzilgebäude (Council House) where elections were held for the Council of Constance (left), and the statue of Imperia (right)
充滿宗教氣息的碼頭：（左）康斯坦茨會議年代舉行選舉的會議樓和（右）Imperia女神像

We went for a further stroll in the old town after afternoon tea, and before long evening came and there were traffic snarls heading to the Swiss town of Kreuzlingen across the border. This Swiss army of shoppers took the obvious advantage of lower prices in Germany, spend a whole day there then head back home when the shops started to close in the evening.
吃過下午茶，再在舊城區閒逛，不經不覺到了傍晚，那時道路車水馬龍，但見長長車龍開往毗鄰的瑞士Kreuzlingen市，無他的，德國物價比瑞士便宜，所以吸引到不少瑞士人跨境購物，到傍晚商店關門時這班瑞士購物兵團便打道回府。

I have only bought a day ticket on the day, and my short work trip didn’t really allow me to spend more than a day going somewhere far, so I returned to Munich after dinner. There are indeed many beautiful villages and cities along the shores of Bodensee, and Konstanz was just one of them. I wonder when I will have time to visit Bodensee again.
(But while you wait for my next visit, you can see more photos from Konstanz at this website!)
由於買了一天票，加上公幹時間短促，我也不可能花連續兩天遊玩，所以當晚飯後便回慕尼黑了。其實沿博登湖還有很多漂亮的小鎮和城市，康斯坦茨祇是其中之一，不知下次又會何時再會到博登湖？
（不過等我寫下一篇博登湖遊記也不知是甚麼時候，不如先到此網頁看看其他康斯坦茨的照片吧！）

Egypt, don’t get too carried away yet! 埃及，且慢高興！

2011-02-13T23:51:00.001+11:00

In a matter of within 24 hours, Egypt’s Mubarak lost his grip on power and resigned from his presidency, with the military assuming power in interim. While the protesting project erupted into a euphoria and many leaders around the world welcomed the change of regime, the future is not necessarily as rosy as many would hope for.

The most powerful force driving this turn of events is certainly not the US whose attitude seemed to be swaying day by day. It may not be the protesting mass either, if not with military support, and in fact the political power has fallen into military hands for the moment. There is no way for outsiders to fathom the political dealings behind the scenes, but the fact that the military has taken over seems to suggest that the military has been exerting great power. How may one otherwise explain why the power wasn’t handed over to the newly created vice-presidency? It is common practice in many countries that the vice-president (or someone else in the government as nominated by the constitution) would assume the role of a president when the president fails to fulfil his/her duty, but what has happened in Egypt has defied this convention. So has the role of the vice-president been usurped by the military? Although the military has maintained that it would stay in power only up to the upcoming general election, there is no guarantee that it will do so especially when no one is really able to exert pressure on it apart from foreign powers. This whole episode is in a way a bloodless military coup in disguise, although very few people and media outlets like to face up to such a reality. After all, Mubarak did have a mandate through the last ‘election’ and the ousting of an elected government by the military is normally met with all-round condemnation.

Throughout the protests, there has not been a single leader or group of leaders that was powerful enough to stand and lead from the crowd and be a formidable opponent to the Egyptian government. It has been suggested at the beginning of the protests that the only unifying theme among the opposition parties is the ousting of Mubarak, but beyond that they do not appear to have common political themes or philosophies. Had Mubarak fallen abruptly and violently, there might have been a political vacuum according to those analysts. So who in Egypt has the might to fill the shoes of the fallen regime who has been in power for over 30 years?

If the general election is to go ahead in September as scheduled, some already believes that Mubarak’s allies and officials can simply re-brand themselves and will probably win the election given their political resources. However, as election results cannot be controlled (in a fair and open election, at least) how will the international community react if the Egyptian people have elected the Muslim Brotherhood which aims to resurrect fundamental Islamic values and is generally considered anti-Western world? Will the Western governments then isolate Egypt as they have to Palestine which has elected Hamas in the last election?

I do not intend to condone Mubarak in any way, but I simply want to point out that many people and media outlets have been a little too optimistic and simplistic in their views on Egypt’s future post-Mubarak. They seem to be oblivious to how treacherous the status quo and the way to the future are. There is still a long way to go and the Egyptian people will have to work hard for their ultimate goals.

埃及的穆巴拉克在短短24小時內，由無意退位到自動呈辭，政府由軍方接管，轉變之快果然出人意表，示威民眾欣喜若狂，多國領袖表示歡迎，但明天是否一定更好？

能帶來這次改變的，相信不是在事件上舉棋不定的美國，最大功臣也不一定是人民力量，而是埃及軍方，現時政權更是落在其手中，當中有甚麼政治交易外人不會不清楚，但從政權交接的安排來看，軍方必定有不弱的影響，要不然為何不交棒給新委任的副總統蘇萊曼？一般國家，如果總統不能履行職務，通常都由副總統（或政府內其他屬下）暫時接任，埃及這個舉動看來有乖常理，副總統是不是被軍方架空？雖然軍方說過不會長期執政，但政治這東西很少說得定，實權在軍方手中，軍方想做甚麼，相信沒甚麼人控制得了，除非有外國介入。說得實在一點，這是一場不流血政變，不過大部份人和國際傳媒都對之視而不見——說到底穆巴拉克是經「選舉」選出來的，軍方上場取代民選政權通常換來的是四方譴責！

多日示威，反對派沒有一個或一班有力的領袖統領大軍，沒有政治力量和政府匹敵，觀乎當年八九，學運領袖不祇有號召力，連中央也要接見他們！示威之始，就已有人提出，反對派唯一共同點，就是推翻穆巴拉克，但再沒其他，萬一穆巴拉克倒台，埃及便會因為不能推舉新領導而出現權力真空。究竟埃及會有甚麼新的政治力量衝擊和改變維持了30餘年的政治現狀？

如果埃及的確按原定於9月大選，已有評論說穆巴拉克的黨羽大可改頭換面，捲土重來，但選舉結果往往出人意表，如果由主張伊斯蘭復興、立場反西方的伊斯蘭兄弟黨上場，國際社會又會有甚麼反應？西方會不會像巴勒斯坦人選出哈馬斯後把巴勒斯坦政府封殺般如法炮製？

我無意維護穆巴拉克，但很多人和傳媒把事情看得太美好，以為變天過後，埃及將會迎來更好的將來，卻看不到眼前的現狀和路途有多險惡，埃及將來如何，就要靠埃及人民共創了。

Hidden riches, jeunes riches 錢財不露眼‧少年英財

2011-02-10T00:02:00.004+11:00

It’s not wise to judge a book by its cover, and to judge how wealthy a person is from their appearance is even more hit and miss. There are plenty of them floating around us any time, and the Frankfurt Airport and Munich are a couple of places where they are more easily spotted.

At the Frankfurt Airport it took me 20 minutes to receive my 13 euro tourist tax refund. The culprit was a very slow-moving queue of people who would submit multiple receipts with forms that were filled incorrectly or incompletely, including a Russian man who submitted almost 20 receipts. Then there was a Chinese woman who asked me for help with translation. I told her that the staff could pay her refund only in US dollars but not euros, and charge-back to her credit card was not allowed since the amount was a stunning 3000 euros! Based on the general 20 % sales tax rate across Europe and tax refund would usually give back only 70 % of the tax, I estimated that the woman would have purchased at least 20000 euros worth of goods. I wondered what she has actually bought and whether all the goods were for herself or also for others, but regardless I was awed by such purchasing power. I think the tax refund staff would even scoff at my measly 13 euros.

But most amazingly, these rich people just look like you and me, and if you had met them somewhere away from the tax refund office, they would not have left you with any particularly striking impression. I also happened to catch a glimpse of the Chinese woman’s boarding card, and she was sitting in economy class only (although there’s a big price range from full fare economy to discount economy and I have no way of knowing what ticket she holds). If anything, these people do know how to disguise their wealth very well.

When I talked about this with my Chinese colleagues back in Melbourne, they weren’t surprised by this at all. One of them even gave the example of those entrepreneurs from Wenzhou, famous all over China for their wealth and entrepreneurship. They tend to keep a low profile when they travelled abroad in groups; they would only chew on instant noodles and stay in very simple accommodation. But when it comes to business negotiations, investments or procurements, they will splurge out ruthlessly. I guess that it’s the frugality and sharp business wit that have kept the Wenzhou entrepreneurs in their extremely good stead.

所謂人不可貌相，這個世界原來有錢人甚多，而且往往不為我們察覺，在法蘭克福機場和慕尼黑就令我大開眼界。

我在法蘭克福機場，為了13歐元的退稅，在一條移動緩慢的人龍等了20分鐘，我前面的每個人一次過都會遞上好幾張發票和表格給職員處理，加上他們的表格甚少沒有錯填漏填，所以排隊才是如此費時，最厲害的是一個俄羅斯遊客，一遞交便是差不多二十張發票，另有個中國女人，我替她翻譯，我告訴她，職員祇可以把退稅以美元支付而不可用歐元，也不可過戶至其信用卡，因為金額有3000歐元。我心不禁吃了一驚，以歐洲一般的消費稅率是20%左右，退稅大約祇會退7成稅款計算，單是一個女人便買了大約2萬歐元的貨品，究竟她買了甚麼、是買給自己還是走水貨？不管答案如何，我不得不對這股強大的消費力感歎，我的區區13歐元，相信連退稅的職員也會瞧不起！

但更令我驚歎的是，這些高消費族其貌不揚，從這些人的打扮，你根本不可能一眼認定他們特別富貴，而我也湊巧瞥見那個中國女人的登機證，她也祇是乘坐經濟客位而已（不過經濟艙機票，正價和特價相差甚遠，我是無法得知她的是哪種機票），用廣東俗語來說就是「禾稈冚（掩）珍珠」。

後來回到澳洲，跟來自國內的同事談起，他們說這種人多的是，尤其是以經商聞名的溫州人，他們一團人出國時祇啃方便麵（即食麵），住宿也是能省則省，但一到談生意、出錢採購和投資時，則絕不手軟，也許儉和狠，就是溫州人的致富之道。

* * *

The reason why I had to queue for tax refund was because I bought a couple of handbags for my sisters-in-law in Munich the day before. It was one of the more common and popular brands, but certainly not the two or three most luxurious/expensive brands (of course none of us in the family can afford those!) If the day at Frankfurt Airport has shown me how many rich people there are in this world, that day in Munich has let me see what rich kids are like.

While I was choosing between the different colours of the handbags, a mum came into the shop with her 6- or 7-year-old daughter and let her try on the different handbags to see which one the young one liked the best. With exposure to such good things at this tender age, the girl will no doubt develop a finer and more critical taste in the times to come. The mum, meanwhile, must be quite well to do and have enough money to indulge her daughter with such luxury goods!

When I returned to the guest house after a day of shopping, I couldn’t help but pay attention to an 8- to 9-year-old lad sitting near me in the underground train. He looked smart and sporty in his outfit, consisting from head to toe of brand-name beanie, windcheater, backpack, jeans and skateboard shoes. I was actually pretty jealous of him, because if I were to own the same outfit, it would in fact cost quite a fortune. Children’s clothing often cost cheaper than adults’, but still there must be parents who can afford these popular brands.

Those two are not the only kids who have such wealthy parents. I read about a group of Australian secondary school pupils going on a school camp in Africa. Each of them (their parents, rather) had to fork out A$ 9000 (HK$ 70000, 6670 euros, US$ 9000) to join – consider that some families in Australia may even struggle to find A$ 90 for some standard extra-curricular activities for their children! But those kids in the camp were too spoilt and indulged in drug-taking during the trip, and copped some rather severe punishment from the school. They are probably too rich for their own good.

我之所以要花時間辦退稅，是因為前一天仍在慕尼黑時為兩個弟媳婦買手袋，品牌挺流行但絕不是最高／昂貴的那兩三個（我們當然還沒那麼富貴！）那天購物令我對「富二代」這個新名詞的認識不再停留在概念方面，教我看到他們的真面貌。

我在挑選手袋顏色時，有個媽媽帶六七歲左右的小女孩入商店，讓女孩試戴不同款式的手袋後品評一番，年紀小小便有機會認識時款手袋，相信長大後一定懂得追求更潮更高級的了，當然那個媽媽應該是有個餘錢的人，才有能力帶引女孩進入高檔之門了。

購物後坐地鐵回宿舍，離我不遠有個八、九歲的男孩，穿得很運動家型很帥，從頭到腳，毛線帽（冷帽）、擋風外套（風褸）、背包（背囊）、牛仔褲、滑板鞋，無一不是名牌仔，看得我也有一點點妒忌，如果我也買同一套裝束，不祇是我，我的錢包也會覺得肉疼心疼！當然童裝價錢可能會比成人便宜，但這個男孩正讓我看出他父母的家底應該不錯。

要說家底豐厚，不得不提一班有幸參加一個非洲遊學團的澳洲學生，該團每人盛惠9000澳元（7萬港元、6670歐元、9000美元），很多澳洲家長從日常開支中挖90澳元給子女參加一般的課外活動也談何容易呢！但是該班非洲團的小混混，卻身在福中不知福，到了非洲後迷上吸毒，結果被校方重罰甚至開除，這些不長進的「富二代」，說得不客氣一點，就是「二世祖」。

To far and wide 秋去春來冬又至

2011-02-01T23:56:00.008+11:00

It was only a brief one and a half months before I flew out of Australia again shortly after the turn of the new year and went back to my old lab in Munich for a couple of weeks of work. Before I knew it, now I am back in Melbourne.
返歸澳洲才一個半月，新年伊始，我又再次從地球一角的澳洲飛往另一角的德國，回到我在慕尼黑的實驗室公幹兩週，現在終於返回墨爾本了。

I saw the four seasons come and gone in two months instead of the normal full year, albeit in a rather unusual sequence. The brilliant golden brown of autumn changed abruptly to the lush green of spring. Then after a few sizzling summer days, I had to acclimatise to the coolish winter days of Hong Kong and the icy snowy days of Munich. Fortunately it wasn’t too unbearable in Munich and I coped rather well even with the last couple of days there when it was also the coldest.
一年四季，完全濃縮在短短兩個月，金黃的深秋一下子變成綠油油的春天，經歷過幾個大暑天後轉瞬是香港清涼的冬天和慕尼黑冰天雪地，可幸還不是太冷，臨離開慕尼黑最冷的兩天也總算頂得住。

Pretty snow scenery near my institute in Munich (left) and the town of Geislingen an der Steige (right) en route from Munich to Frankfurt Airport by train
在慕尼黑的研究所附近（左）和坐火車由慕尼黑往法蘭克福機場途經Geislingen an der Steige（右）時的雪景

I never expected that I would return to Munich so quickly. Neither did my friends over there, and one of them joked that I didn’t seem to have left Munich in the first place! When I told my Dutchie Buddy that I was packing up for the trip, his response was: haven’t you just unpacked? I had a rather rushed trip to Hong Kong and Munich. But I am lucky that I rarely suffer from jetlag and I tend to adjust quite quickly to a new destination. A guy in Munich, however, reminded me that I might start to suffer from a permanent jetlag if I fly around too often! (Well, this is the first time I got sent on work trips at such a short interval.)
我沒想到這麼快又回到慕尼黑，那裡有個朋友打趣說我根本沒離開過，我告訴荷蘭朋友我要收拾行李往德國時，他的反應是：你不是剛剛才卸下行裝嗎？短短時間先後匆匆到過香港和慕尼黑，幸好我一向甚少受時差影響，一下機精神很快便恢複，不過有人開玩笑說，你這樣頻密飛行，其實可能早已有永久性時差影響（permanent jetlag）呢。（不過我也祇是這次才如此頻密出差的！）

This work trip has certainly been worthwhile for progress on my project, and I was also glad that I came in time to bid farewell to a few friends and colleagues. I couldn’t believe that, on my last day at work in Munich, I had to say goodbye to three colleagues in the lab and another friend who has decided to return to the UK for a new job. On the other hand, it was also a trip of reunions and meeting new people. I met up with a couple of old friends in Munich, and made some new friends at a farewell dinner. But the most amazing thing was, when I was in Hong Kong after Munich, I managed to have a reunion with three other Hong Kongers whom I knew from my old days in Munich! Two of us and I went our separate ways from Munich while one continued to live there. Who would have thought that we all happen to be in our home town at the same time!
這次出差固然有工作成果，而我也慶幸來得及時，給好幾個朋友和同事說再見，最誇張是我上班最後一天，便跟三個實驗室同袍和一個要返回英國的朋友道別！我也有幸與好幾個舊雨相聚，在歡送另一個朋友時認識了幾個在慕尼黑的研究所工作的人，最難能可貴的是，公幹後回香港時竟然可以和三個在慕尼黑認識的香港朋友聚首一堂！我和兩個離開慕尼黑後都去了不同的地方，另一個仍在那裡定居，我們四個能同時在香港，可真機緣巧合。

Food - an essential ingredient to all kinds of gatherings! 各種聚會，總離不開食！

I always have this picture in mind that Munich is like a snooker table where everyone that I’ve met was at first happily in one place like the red balls, but then a white ball would mercilessly come our way and forcibly smash everything apart. Munich is to many of us, myself included, a transit point to a further destination in life or a stepping stone in our career paths. The lab where I worked (and where I continue to visit for my work trips) was in particular a revolving door for scientists as very few would end up staying there and there would always be fresh blood replacing the old. I can’t ask the clock to rewind, and memories aren’t meant to be re-enacted. Opportunities to meet old friends are not necessarily easy to come by, but I know such moments should be seized and much treasured when they’re there.
我時常覺得，我和在慕尼黑認識的人，就好像英式桌球的紅球一樣，開始時還是在一起，但後來不知怎樣，被人一棍無情的白球打得各散東西。慕尼黑這個地方對很多人（包括我在內）來說，祇是人生的一個中轉站、或是踏腳石，過了一段時間大家又再各奔前程，尤其是那家研究所更是個走馬花燈，舊的一批早晚也會離開，但總會有新血補充。天下無不散之筵席，過往和這些朋友相處的開心日子不可能復返，祇可讓其成為自己回憶的一部份吧，所以他日若有機會與他們重聚的話，可得好好珍惜、把握了。

Into the woods 偏向秋山行

2010-12-07T22:27:00.003+11:00

Autumn is the best time for rambles in the countryside. There is no shortage of choices around Munich, from relaxing strolls to really challenging hikes.
秋天正是郊遊的好時候，慕尼黑附近郊野選擇甚多，由輕鬆到困難重重的都有。

My Hong Kong friend in Switzerland came to Munich for a weekend of catching up. After a big feast at the Oktoberfest and another friend’s place, we decided that the next day (26th September) would be a good day to take it easy. One of us suggested going for a ramble around the Schliersee lake, so we took the train to a village nearby and made our way through the fields and along the railway tracks to the Schliersee village.
我在瑞士的香港朋友到慕尼黑舊地重遊，到過啤酒節，然後還和其他朋友飽餐一頓，翌日（9月26日）當然得好好消化，所以其中一個朋友提議到慕尼黑附近的一個湖Schliersee，輕輕鬆鬆地遠足。我們坐火車到該湖附近的一條農村，穿過農田，再沿着火車軌，走到以該湖為名的小村。

Village life 農村生活



On a different track 不同道

The village of Schliersee Schliersee村

That day was pretty chilly, and we were struck by a tree that had gone completely yellow by the lake. It was a reminder that autumn has been lurking for a while behind the veil of warmer days earlier in the week, when I could still wear the traditional leather shorts to the Oktoberfest.
那天天氣微寒，我們在湖邊驀然發現一棵樹已徹底轉黃，前幾天還是很和暖，去啤酒節還可穿傳統的皮短褲，但那棵樹正好提醒我們，秋天其實已一直在悄悄等待了。

Autumn by the lake
湖畔的秋色

The signs of autumn were more conspicuous a week later (3rd October) when I went hiking with a friend in Lenggries. My friend decided to join a Facebook group which goes for regular hikes near Munich and has roped me in for hiking in the mountains near Lenggries with them.
一星期後（10月3日）跟另一個朋友到Lenggries遠足時，秋天的景緻更顯而易見。朋友在Facebook找到一班定期在慕尼黑附近遠足的小組，約我跟他們一塊兒登上Lenggries附近的高山。

Although she thought that the track should not be too difficult based on the information she got, we found not long into the hike that we had seriously underestimated the challenge ahead! The start of the track got gradually steeper, and because of the rain a couple of days earlier, the mud and rocks were still slippery. For the two of us who are not regular and serious hikers, it was indeed very onerous to negotiate through this tricky terrain and take care not to slip all the time. 看他們的資料，說路途不應太困難，但行程開始了沒多久我們才知道自己嚴重低估山路有多艱難，路徑不祇陡，而且因為早兩天才下過雨，不論是泥或是石都仍然濕滑，步步為營之餘還得當心滑倒，對我倆不常遠足的人來說簡直是畏途！

Physical and mental challenges ahead! 令身心皆受考驗的遠足路徑！

I had wanted to take photos regularly during the hike, but I decided against it and instead to put it in my backpack for a big part of the trip in order to protect this brand new camera. As we were panting and pausing frequently on the way uphill then navigating our way carefully downhill, we were stunned to see groups of elderly people who were flying past us on their walking poles. Their agility has totally disguised their real age and put us younger people to shame!
我本想邊走邊拍照，但為了保護新買的相機，還是把它放在背包好了，免得相機有何損傷。正當我們氣喘如牛地緩緩上山，又小心翼翼地下山，三五成群的退休長者拿着行山杖健步如飛的在我們身邊擦過，看他們如此矯健，真不像上了年紀，叫我倆自慚不如。

But of course I couldn't resist photo opportunities whenever we had a break!
當然有機會停下來歇息時我不會方過拍攝的時機！

These trees with bent branches were also worth a photo shot.
這些樹榦彎曲的樹也當然值得一拍。

Another uphill section awaited, but then the track were drier and less treacherous and it was time to enjoy the views of the beautiful autumnal woods. The colours of the trees were particularly striking under the brilliant sun and showed us the prettiest side of early autumn. The end of this uphill track was a hut where I finally had a chance to relax properly, a good chat with others in the group and a hearty venison goulash which was a just reward for the hard yards. But the sky started to turn dark shortly afterwards and we still had to go downhill to catch the train back to Munich. It was a race against time to go through the woods, and once outside we relied on the star light to guide us along an open path back to the town of Lenggries. Such was a strenuous day, and my thighs were still feeling the effects a couple of days on!
下山後再得上山，幸好那段路沒之前那麼濕和崎嶇，可放心邊走邊欣賞那剛剛轉黃的樹林，在陽光照射下份外鮮豔，展現出秋天迷人的一面，然後在山頂的旅舍，跟同行遠足的人邊聊邊喝，又嚐過鹿肉稠湯配麫條，之前如何辛苦驚險都補償了，不過食醉飲飽後，天色漸暗，我們得與時間競賽，趁還有陽光時穿過一個樹林，然後繼續摸黑下山，沿着開揚的路徑，依靠點點繁星，走路回到Lenggries坐火車回慕尼黑，就這樣勞役了一整天，而大腿過了兩、三天還在酸痛呢！

A more enjoyable part of the hike
終於有心情欣賞沿途風景了！

The mountains near the hut (left) and the view from the hut (right)
山頂旅舍附近的山（左）和旅舍望出去的景色（右）

After the hike in Lenggries, I worked for 19 days straight and got thoroughly sick of it since I was basically working and living at the same place. On my day off I only wanted to run away for a change of scene, and when my friend in Ingolstadt asked me if I wanted to visit her there the next day (24th October), I didn’t think twice and agreed.
那次遠足後一連工作了19天，由於工作和住宿都是在研究所，到了不用工作的那一天，我實在太厭倦了，想盡方法要逃離，轉換環境，剛好住在Ingolstadt的澳洲朋友問我翌日（10月24日）有沒有興趣到Ingolstadt一遊，我一口答應了。

En route we passed by big stretches of woods with a variegation of bright red, brown, golden yellow and green, which would have been more striking had there been some sunshine. We stopped by a site of Roman ruins and admired at the building foundations that were still standing after two thousand years. We wondered how the Romans could build something so solid that it would last such a long time. (I feel so lucky that it was actually my second time visiting Roman ruins during this European trip, having been to those in Kaiseraugst near Basel before arriving in Germany.)
沿途經過大片樹林，色彩繽紛，鮮紅色、咖啡色、金黃色和綠色交雜在一起，祇是欠陽光的襯托，不然則更美。中途我們在一處古羅馬廢墟停下來參觀昔日建築物留下來的地基，不其然感嘆當時建築技術的精良，起碼地基也可抵住二千多年的風雨留給後人。（我來到慕尼黑前在瑞士巴塞爾附近的Kaiseraugst也有參觀古羅馬廢墟，有空再補記。一次歐洲之旅能到兩個國家的古羅馬村落遺跡，實屬難得。）

The remains of the Abusina fortress Abusina堡壘的遺址

The highlight of Weltenburg is its monastery which has been brewing beer since 1050 and is the oldest monastery brewery in the world. Of course I took the opportunity to taste the most famous beer of the monastery and bought a 5-litre keg back to my institute to share it with my colleagues. I was puzzled why monasteries would get into the business of brewing, and one of my colleagues said that it was a means for the church to provide some necessities to and make some money from the cities that it ruled in the past.
Weltenburg的最大賣點是修道院，其釀酒廠原來由1050年起已釀製啤酒，是世上歷史最悠久的修道院釀酒廠，我當然不忘品嘗該酒廠最有名的啤酒，也買了一罎5公升啤酒帶回研究所與同事分甘同味。後來跟同事討論，為甚麼修道院也會從事釀酒，有人便說，歷史上不少城市由教會統治，教會為了開拓財源和提供市民所需，都會經營這些業務。

Views of the Danube river that runs past Weltenburg
Weltenburg那一段多瑙河的景色

The monastery (left) and the church (right)
修道院（左）和教堂（右）

Inside the church
教堂內部

There were many more memorable sights in other countries outside Germany, and I’ll slowly start to fill you in.
除了德國，其他國家也有很多令人難忘的景緻，有空讓我再慢慢寫吧。

Munich, after 2 years and 200 years 慕尼黑：兩年和二百年

2010-11-20T23:49:00.002+11:00

Although I have left Munich for almost two years, it felt as if I haven’t really left the place for a long time when I returned in mid-September. The scene of sitting at the airport train station waiting for the train was all too familiar to me.
雖說離開慕尼黑差不多有兩年，但九月中剛再次踏足，坐在機場火車站等車時，很快有種熟悉的感覺，心想我上次離開此地還不是很久之前的事。

The next day I turned up to my previous laboratory, only to find that a few familiar faces have disappeared. After a few days it was the farewell for another two colleagues. But the lab has recruited a few new people and thankfully I mixed with them pretty quickly, at work and outside. The research institute also looked quite different with so many new automatic doors installed. I couldn’t really work out the purpose of those doors. They seemed to help retain the heating at certain locations, but some people said that it was just some projects created in response to the global financial crisis to sustain jobs.
翌日回到以前的實驗室，好些熟悉的面孔不見了，再過幾天又給另外兩個同事送別，但也新來了好幾個人，幸好不用多久便跟他們熟稔了，不論是工作時或工餘都相處愉快。研究所比以前最不同的地方，就是到處都安裝了很多自動門，我實在搞不清那些門有何用途，我想大概是為了隔暖氣，不過也有人說是金融海嘯下要創造出來的項目。

When I went shopping later in the afternoon, I was pleasantly surprised to find that supermarket price tags are pretty much unchanged compared to two years ago. I’m sure those from mainland China, Hong Kong and Australia would have their eyes brimming with glee upon reading this, like I was in the supermarket! Another factor in my favour was the Australian Dollar to Euro exchange rate which was at historically high levels while I was there. It was actually quite affordable to spend money in Germany, particularly on shopping and travel. Unfortunately I didn’t have too much time for shopping because I was too pre-occupied with work and meeting up with friends during my stay.
當日下午到超市購物時，喜見價錢牌跟兩年前差不多，相信不少中國內地、香港和澳洲讀者都會羨慕，特別是現時澳元兌歐元匯率正處歷史高位，在德國購物和旅遊有時會覺得挺划！很可惜是次行程，忙於工作和會友，想擠點空血拼也不行。

Prices have however gone crazy at the Oktoberfest beer festival, and this year the prices have gone up by 5% to 8.4 to 8.9 euros per one-litre mug. This didn’t seem to deter the revellers, and when they were generous enough, they would leave a 10-euro note for the beer waitress for a decent tip. Money didn’t matter as long as the patrons and the waitresses have joy out of the festivities. That’s why I said to the German colleagues that there was no global financial crisis at the Oktoberfest!
價錢飆得最厲害的倒是啤酒節賣的啤酒，今年每杯一公升的漲到8.4至8.9歐元，比上年貴5%，卻無損大眾到那裡及時作樂的興緻，不少人豪爽起來，連同小費會給端啤酒的女侍應10歐元，亦不計較，最重要的是乾杯的盡興，收錢的也高興，所以我也跟德國同事說，在啤酒節哪裡有金融海嘯？

Recession? What recession? 啤酒節無懼金融海嘯！

From a commemoration of marriage between Prince Ludwig and his wife, Oktoberfest has evolved to be one of the most well-known people’s festivals in the world. It is held at the same old festival ground of Theresienwiese , commonly abbreviated to Wies’n (sounds like Veeson in English) by the locals, but more and more people are crowding into the festival. The busiest times are Friday evenings and weekends, and all the beer tents may even have to shut their doors because they have a full house! A German colleague joked that the only way to guarantee a seat in the tents at weekends was to go there starting from breakfast.
啤酒節由二百年前巴伐利亞路易皇子的婚宴，演變成今日一年一度全球知名的盛事，地點仍舊是那個Theresienwiese「大笪地」（大草坪），當地人簡稱Wiesn（讀音像英語Veeson），但人愈來愈多，特別是週五晚和週末會有人滿之患，一眾啤酒館更會擠擁得要被迫封館！有德國同事打趣時，週末時真得到那裡從早餐吃到晚飯才保證有位坐了。

I have not expected to visit the Oktoberfest as many as 5 times. The first time was the second day after opening (19th September) when my friends and I went to see the traditional parade and had a beer at the Wiesn afterwards. The second time (22nd September) was the de rigueur annual outing with colleagues. The third time (25th September) was to take my friend who has moved to Basel and came back for a visit of reminiscence. The fourth time (29th September) was to catch up with an Italian friend whom I met at Oktoberfest 2007. The fifth time (1st October) was for a farewell of a Hungarian colleague who was returning to her home country. The Oktoberfest provided a simple, convenient and cheerful setting for meeting up with friends and other social occasions!
沒想到今年前往啤酒節總共五次之多，第一次是開幕後第二天（9月19日）看過傳統巡遊後跟朋友到Wiesn喝一杯，第二次（9月22日）是一年一度必會跟同事前往的社交場合，第三次（9月25日）是招待從慕尼黑搬到瑞士巴塞爾（Basel）後舊地重遊的香港朋友，第四次（9月29日）是跟2007年在啤酒節認識的意大利朋友聚舊，第五次（10月1日）則是歡送一個回匈牙利的同事，總之一個啤酒節，為會友和其他社交應酬提供最簡單方便又熱鬧的場所！

The traditional Trachtenumzug parade
傳統巡遊

The statue of Bavaria keeping an eye on the patrons
巴伐利亞女雕像俯瞰啤酒節全場

A toast to the moon at the Wiesn on mid-autumn festival (22nd September)
中秋節（9月22日）在Wiesn舉杯邀明月

My colleagues and I went to the 200th anniversary historical exhibition for the farewell of our Hungarian colleague. We felt we had stepped back in time with so many antiques on display, beer served in ceramic mugs and traditional shows and music which set it apart from the other tents playing Michael Jackson or Robbie Williams all the time. (Their songs are perfect for sing-alongs en masse, I must admit.) As we walked out of the historical beer tent at 20:00, the sky lit up with several beams of light emerging from the back of the Bavaria statue and criss-crossing each other in different patterns. The concept and timing were coincidentally a good match with A Symphony of Lights show that takes place in Hong Kong’s Victoria Harbour every night!
歡送匈牙利同事那一次，我們先到特別為二百週年紀念的傳統展覽，裡面不止有很多古董展出，啤酒館也有很多傳統表演和音樂演奏，啤酒杯也是舊式的，這股傳統氣息跟其他不停演奏Michael Jackson和Robbie Williams的啤酒館截然不同。（這兩個歌手的歌倒的確容易上口，很適合大合唱。）從傳統啤酒館走出來已是晚上8點，那時天空突然一片光亮，上演一幕「幻彩詠Wiesn」，原來有一束束光從巴伐利亞女雕像後面照射出來，並作出了一些花式表演，時間和方式倒與遠方的「幻彩詠香江」燈光表演吻合！

The centre stage in the historical beer tent
傳統啤酒館內的中央表演台



A journey back in time
時光倒流

Let the Oktoberfest shine!
光芒四射的啤酒節

I was glad to have met so many people in Munich and to have visited the Oktoberfest so many times, because no one knows when I’ll come to Munich next and even if I do it may not be Oktoberfest time. But perhaps the next time in Munich there will be some other festivities or other reasons to celebrate!
我興幸這次在慕尼黑能與這麼多人見面，到啤酒節趁墟也這麼多次，因為我實在不知下次是甚麼時候再到這地方，就算有機會舊地重遊也不一定碰上這個盛會。不過說不定下一次到慕尼黑，不知會有甚麼新喜慶或其他高興事呢。

An autumn that doesn't seem to end 秋色無邊

2010-11-05T23:40:00.001+11:00

After leaving Hong Kong in mid-September, I’ve spent almost two months in Europe and the trip is coming to an end in the next few days. It has been a busy time but also fun and memorable.
九月中離開香港後，不經不覺在歐洲度過了差不多兩個月，還有幾天便要結束這個旅程了，玩了、忙了這麼久，印象當然深刻。

My first week in Europe was spent on a short holiday through Switzerland and London. Afterwards I returned to my old outpost and third home of Munich, back to my previous work place to finish off my old project and to initiate a new collaboration with other former colleagues on my current project in Australia. The first two weeks weren’t too hectic, and the timing couldn’t have been better since the 200th anniversary of the Oktoberfest beer festival was taking place at the same time. It was a good time to meet up with old friends in Munich, and for one reason or another I ended up going to the Oktoberfest 5 times in total! It has surely made up for my future absences at this festival. But into the third week after starting on my old project, I took on a 19-day stretch at work without any day off. On a few days I would find myself stuck in the dark in the basement laboratories apart from a brief break for lunch and dinner. Experiments were not the only challenge when I had to stay up for long nights; it was also quite a fight to stay awake and concentrate. A couple of people even compared me to the Chilean miners who were trapped underground!
來到歐洲，先在瑞士和倫敦玩了一週，然後回到老地方慕尼黑「再續前緣」，在以前的實驗室要把舊的工作做妥，兼且從澳洲帶了新的項目過來跟另外的舊同事合作，首兩週還不是太忙，剛好碰上啤酒節第二百週年，正好可以跟舊相識重聚，我也因為不同理由，前後到啤酒節總共五次，足以彌補將來不能前往的遺憾了。但踏入第三週，一開展舊工作時，便一口氣忙了19天也沒有休假，有好幾天是在地庫的暗黑實驗室孤軍作戰，除了午飯和晚飯前後外都得緊守工作崗位，有時做得晚，到了深夜還要跟睡魔搏鬥，正如身邊有人形容，我就是那些困在地底的智利礦工了！

Fortunately my long hours of struggle were not wasted. I finished what I needed to do for my old project, and the new project has exceeded everyone’s expectations. It was definitely worthwhile coming over to my old lab! After the six and a bit weeks in Munich, my boss came all the way from Australia and we left for Switzerland yesterday to do some other experiments. Afterwards we would return to Munich for a day to discuss how to carry the new project forward before flying out. Considering that I have just been back from a weekend in the Netherlands at the end of October and that my trip back to Melbourne includes a 3-day stop in Hong Kong, this is pretty intense travelling!
幸好我的長時間奮戰並沒有白費，舊的工作應做的都做妥，新項目成果也遠超預期，這回總算不枉此行了。在慕尼黑六星期多的工幹後，澳洲老闆遠渡重洋，昨天帶我到瑞士做些其他實驗，然後順道再返回慕尼黑一天，跟我的舊同事商討未來大計。連同十月底到荷蘭過了一個週末，和離開德國後在香港逗留三天後再飛往墨爾本，這兩個星期真的馬不停蹄。

My days in Europe have seen early autumn slipping gradually into late autumn, and the landscape stayed colourful while the flowers slowly gave way to bright autumn leaves in technicolour. This autumn has been longer than the European norm. Even at the start of November the weather is still on the warm side and many trees were still holding onto their leaves with a good variety of colours. I used to say that autumn in Europe is generally short, and that November is my least favourite month because of the grey skies, cold days and nothing to do before Christmas, Chinese New Year and the snow sports season. But this long autumn is going to change my view with its pleasant weather and beautiful sceneries. I’m sure that you’ll like them too after seeing a small sampler of my photos – more will be on the way!
我在歐洲，看著日子從初秋慢慢踏入深秋，四周斑斕依然，祇不過花卉鮮豔的色彩，漸次由斑駁的秋葉取代。今年歐洲的秋天似乎比正常的長，到了十一月初，天氣仍然和暖，樹葉不少仍未掉下，而且色彩鮮明，我以往常跟人說歐洲秋天短促，而十一月天氣一般又灰又冷，又未到聖誕、農曆新年和滑雪季節，是我最不喜歡的月份，這個又長又暖的秋天，四周風景又美不勝收，實在令我大喜過望，現在先拿幾張照片讓大家先睹為快！

11/9/2010: Rigi Kulm, near Lucerne, Switzerland 瑞士盧塞因附近的Rigi Kulm

13/9/2010: Holland Park, London 倫敦荷蘭公園



2/10/2010 The streets near my lab in Munich 慕尼黑實驗室附近的街道



3/10/2010: The mountains near Lenggries, south of Munich 慕尼黑以南Lenggries一帶的高山

24/10/2010: Weltenburg - home to the oldest monastery brewery in the world! 德國Weltenburg——全世界歷史最悠久的修道院釀酒廠



30-31/10/2010: The Netherlands 荷蘭



4-8/11/2010: Brugg and Villigen, Switzerland 瑞士Brugg及Villigen

A quick island escape 一睹南丫島

2010-10-09T14:20:00.000+11:00

Where I stayed in Hong Kong was just a stone's throw away from Lamma Island, which I could see every day across a small sea channel. I've heard that it is a good hiking location and I've been itching to try it for myself.
在香港住的地方，與南丫島祇是隔了個小小的海峽，每天進出都看到，而且聽說那裡遠足還不錯，令我心癢想到那裡逛逛。

When I found out that I could take a small boat (called Kaito in Hong Kong) from the district of Aberdeen nearby to the two largest villages on Lamma Island, I decided to make use of it and spend an afternoon there.
當我發現從香港仔可以坐街渡（渡海小艇）到南丫島的兩大灣——索罟灣和榕樹灣時，我便決定找機會一試，到南丫島郊遊一個下午。

The East Lamma Channel that the Kaito crosses is a busy shipping channel heavily utilised by container ships into and out of Hong Kong's container ports. Shortly into the voyage we encountered a supertanker which pushed out a tube of waves along its path. It looked innocuous from afar, but I realised that it was actually something far more treacherous when the boat stopped momentarily. I grabbed hold of the metal fencing of the boat and before long the boat was tossed up and down twice. My body was given a good shake-up inside and out!
街渡橫越的東博寮海峽，平時船來船往，特別多大型貨櫃船駛過，是繁忙的航道。街渡進入海峽不久，便遇上一艘巨型滿載貨櫃的船，離遠便看到貨船捲起的一層白浪，起初還不以為意，但街渡停下來的一刻，我才意識到那不是開玩笑的：我坐在船邊，馬上抓緊船沿的鐵枝，那層浪湧到時，街渡上下顛簸了兩下，雖然有心理準備，但我的心好像差點跌了出來！

A few of the many container ships traversing the East Lamma Channel
駛經東博寮海峽的貨櫃船眾多



Hong Kong likes to boost of how the depth of its waters facilitates movement of container ships, but if a supertanker can produce such waves, one has to surmise that it's not so deep after all.
常言道香港「港闊水深」，但大型貨輪駛過便湧起如此大浪，可想而知水並不是那麼深！

Everything returned to normal after the waves have swept by, and the boat continued to the first stop, Mo Dat Wan, a rather seclusive bay.
經過那驚濤駭浪後，一切又回復平靜，街渡繼績駛向第一站模達灣。

Right: lying in a floating bed and letting the boat do all the work!
右：躺在浮床上，自有艇代勞！

Shortly afterwards the Kaito reached its destination, Sok Kwu Wan (Picnic Bay). The fish farms and the seafood stores still looked the same they were as I last visited 3 years ago.
不久街渡便駛到目的地索罟灣，那裡的養魚排和海鮮攤檔，跟我三年前吃海鮮時一模一樣。

Left: Tin Hau Temple (goddess for seafarers); right: near the Sok Kwu Wan Pier
左：天后廟、右：索罟灣碼頭附近

I looked up a map and found a signpost that pointed me to a trail towards the other village of Yung Shue Wan. From then on I embarked on a ramble along this trail. Fortunately it wasn't overly arduous as the weather wasn't too hot and many parts of the trail was shady under the trees.
下船後查看一下地圖，找到了指示牌後，我便向榕樹灣進發。那天天氣幸好不算太熱，而且路徑不少地方也有樹蔭，所以走起來不太辛苦。

The mud flats just outside Sok Kwu Wan
離索罟灣不遠的泥灘

Kamikaze Cave, where the Japanese stored their boats for kamikaze attacks against the Allies during World War II 神風洞，第二次世界大戰日軍「神風敢死隊」占據香港時，在洞內收藏突擊快艇，對盟軍的艦隻進行自殺式襲擊之用



A local school (left) and a small village (right) along the trail
沿途一所鄉村學校（左）和小村落（右）

A pavilion half-way up the hill provided a perfect spot both for a respite and for looking back on Sok Kwu Wan.
山腰有個涼亭，除了可飽覽整個索罟灣的景色外，也是中途納涼的好地方。

After reaching a small peak, the view along the track suddenly opened up to rolling green hills that ran all the way to the coast and surrounded a few secluded bays. The scenery somehow reminded me of Cinque Terre in Italy that I visited in 2005. This walk is like a mini version of the hike between the five villages, save that they were real mountains in Italy and the slopes were a lot steeper.
翻過一個小峰後，小徑突然變得開揚，環顧四周，盡是一片綠色的山巒，一直伸展至海邊，環抱著一個又一個恬靜的海灣，風光不知怎樣令我想起五年前曾踏足過的意大利五漁村Cinque Terre，有點像五條村之間的山路的縮影，當然意大利那裡山高得多、崖也陡得多。

Although Lamma Island is quite a distance away from the heart of Hong Kong, it is not totally insulated from intrusions of modern urban life. This hiking trail is not particularly demanding and is totally paved with concrete. That's probably why I could actually see people walking in their flip-flops along the way! Another rare sight (to me, anyway) is police patrol along the trail as it passes through a few small villages en route. In many parts of the Western world, one doesn't even see the police patrolling normal streets so often! But the most distinctive sight of all has to be the electricity plant which is easily visible on the west coast of Lamma Island. It is indeed quite unusual to have the big chimneys of the plant as the backdrop to the many beaches on the island!
雖說南丫島遠離市區的繁囂，但香港畢竟是香港，郊外總仍看到現代文明的蹤跡。小徑全程以混凝土鋪好，而且不算特別崎嶇，怪不得偶而也有人祇是穿拖鞋走這條小徑！小徑沿途有數條小村落，剛從索罟灣出發時便見小徑有警察巡邏，在外國郊遊路徑甚少會看到警察的縱影啊。但最獨特的景觀，要算是港燈發電廠，無論到南丫島西岸任可海灘，總逃離不過那幾根大煙囪，彷彿在告訴大家，無論你到那裡，也躲不過我！

Yet another sign of intrusion by urban life: a cement plant seen from the pavilion
又一文明蹤影：從涼亭俯瞰水泥廠



The omnipresent chimneys 活在煙囪的陰影中！

The highest point of the island stands a wind turbine, and it is also a good vantage point for the Hong Kong Island. (The turbine can be seen quite easily from where I stayed as well.) From there, it was almost another hour of walk before arriving at the other end of the trail, Yung Shue Wan. It is a far bigger village than Sok Kwu Wan with a greater variety of shops and eating places (apart from seafood restaurants). Had I knew that it would be a long wait for my ferry back to Aberdeen, I would have paid a visit to some of those popular ones a bit farther away from the pier.
全島的最高點有一座發電風車，在那裡可遠望香港島的景色（其實從我住的地方也可望到這台風車）。從這個小山頂走下來，再走大半小時，便來到榕樹灣。榕樹灣村落的規模遠比索罟灣大，各式商店和食肆都較多（海鮮酒家除外），如果一早知道在榕樹灣等街渡回香港仔要等那麼久，我早就光顧一下離碼頭遠一點較多人光顧的小食店了。

The turbine at the Lamma Winds power station
風采發電站的風車

A village blended into the natural environment at the foot of the wind power station
風力發電站山腳下的小村莊，與大自然融為一體

Yung Shue Wan and its pier
榕樹灣及其碼頭

I decided to kill time by walking to a nearby village and the next stop for the Kaito ferry, Pak Kok Tsuen (literally northern tip village). The village wasn't particularly well-known and there was hardly anyone to be seen walking along this route. Then I realised why as soon as I reached the village: the view en route wasn't much to speak of, and that tranquil dormitory village had only one store that took me a while to find!
既然時間尚多，我便走到附近另一條村落和街渡的下一站——北角村（各位香港讀者可勿與北角混淆！）其實北角村不甚出名，路徑沿途全無人煙，走畢全程後方知為何：途中風景沒啥特別，而北角村基本上祇有民居，想買罐汽水解渴也不易！

A glimpse of the Victoria Harbour and the suspension bridges on the hills near Pak Kok Tsuen.
從北角村附近的山頭遠望維多利亞港和多道懸索吊橋

But at this northern tip of the island, the pier offers an unobstructed view of the sea and a quiet fishing spot.
不過北角村位處南丫島最北端，在那裡的碼頭等船時，四週的海景全屬於等船的和在碼頭垂釣的人。

The boat back to Aberdeen finally turned up. The evening sun made a re-appearance from the veils of clouds as the boat slowly sailed to its destination, and showed its most glorious facet when we entered the typhoon shelter of Aberdeen. I couldn't have asked for a more perfect ending to this little adventure that I've longed for!
街渡終於來了，坐在船上，看著夕陽撥開雲霞緩緩低垂，街渡駛回香港仔避風塘的一刻，正是夕陽最燦爛的時候，為這一天寫上完美的結局。這次終於還了我一個心願，能夠在香港的郊野走一趟了！

From its humble beginning by the sea 從一個小漁港開始

2010-09-28T06:13:00.009+10:00

When I was young in Hong Kong, many text books would carry this almost cliché saying that Hong Kong used to be a small fishing village. While it has since then changed umpteen times, there are enough bits and pieces left to allow one to trace back the beginnings of this place.
小時候的課本常言道，香港從前是個小漁港。雖然這地方改頭換面了不知多少次，但歲月總會留下一點痕跡給後人看的。

Hong Kong is still inseparable from the sea, and the sea is a part of many people’s lives.
香港這地方與海仍有不可分割的淵源，是不少人生活的一部分。

For my one week in Hong Kong, I stayed in a seaside district which is also a stronghold of Hong Kong fishery. The typhoon shelter is filled with fleets of fishing boats where the fishery households also do their business and call home.
這次回港一週，住的地方不止與海為鄰，而且是香港傳統漁業的據地之一，避風塘內泊滿了一艘又一艘的漁船，既是漁民的謀生工具，也是他們的商鋪和他們的家。

In contrast to the seafaring lifestyle, many have chosen to live in one of the many high-rises hugging the sea front. Fortunately the place doesn’t appear overly crowded with so many buildings. There is still plenty of open space to let the see breeze in and counteract the oppressive summer heat. This is indeed much more comfortable than the middle of the busiest part of the city.
沿著海傍的海濱長廊漫步，正好讓人感受這個小漁港的氣息。小小的地方，蓋了一幢幢的住宅高樓，但不見得特別擠，而且四周開揚面海，盛署中仍有陣陣海風吹來，為炎熱的天時降溫，比起鬧市舒服多了。

The seaside promenade provides an open area to the local residents who welcome some space for recreation. The place comes to a buzz in the evenings when the heat has abated, with many enjoying a walk, jog or just a chat. Although expressly forbidden, many are also fishing along the edge of the promenade. I doubt if there is really a good catch for many people, but many probably enjoy fishing as a good pastime or a chance to meet up with other friends. This is another aspect to the city that never sleeps: there’s more to karaoke, shopping and eating that keeps the city energetic well into the night.
海濱長廊更為居民提供休憩的地方，實在造褔人群。入夜後天氣沒那麼熱的時候，海濱長廊熱鬧起來，散步的、跑步的，聊天的到處都是，而雖然明文規定禁止釣魚，但站在長廊邊垂釣的人可不少，其實我覺得，真正可以釣到魚的人不多，漁獲亦不特別好，但垂釣也不失為消磨時間和跟好友聚面的好理由。一提到香港是不夜城，大家往往想到的是唱K、血拼和吃夜宵，但晚間的海濱長廊，正好反映香港入夜後仍活力盎然的另一面。

Hong Kong will always have a special place in my mind, not least because of the sea and the lively ambience.
這個海，和這股生氣，正是我對這個地方念念不忘的原因。

From one autumn into another

2010-09-02T18:45:00.004+10:00

This winter has been one where the sky was often as grey as the pavements and the colour that people wore matched the dullness and sombreness of the world around them. The weather and scenery reminded me so much of the typical autumns of Germany – if it hasn’t been an exact replica thereof.

And much like my second autumn in Germany, this season has been filled with comings and goings.

The frenzy of construction near my work place continues unabated, and at the end of July one of those long-established pubs has decided to call the last round in order to make way for new student flats. Although I don’t frequent it, it’s no ordinary pub to me, as it was where I had my first ever drop of alcohol in my life on my 21st birthday. After a lunch and a beer on the closing day, all that was left was just memories of the days long gone.

The lab has seen a research group moving elsewhere and a couple of others leaving. Some of those have only joined the lab for less than half a year, and now they have to move on with their boss to a new institute. It’s hard not to miss them, but on the other hand it’s also hard not to enjoy the greater bench space and shorter queues at the machines for now before a new group moves in towards the end of the year!

The start of August has seen a flurry of meeting-ups as a few of my friends from university days have (perhaps coincidentally) chosen to descend in Melbourne around that time. It’s indeed very rare to see almost all my friends together these days. What a waste it would have been if we didn’t take the opportunity to celebrate the reunion! It also gave me the perfect reason to throw a birthday party for them – I don’t think I’ve done a formal one since my 21st, come to think of it! It’s a pity that they could only stay briefly, but it’s always glad to know that some of them are moving on to newer and better ventures.

Sunny days have been few and far in between, but when they were there, it was a chance to rejoice and break out of the winter lull. Visiting the city parks that I haven’t been to before was indeed a good way to make use of the bright sunshine and warmth. Those days felt more like the best of early spring or late autumn, and allowed people to forget temporarily about the winter doldrums.

Very soon I’ll be leaving this ‘German autumn’ behind and flying into a real German autumn. I know that this autumn will have a few things in store for me, from old friendships to new surprises. It will be a time to reminisce and at the same time see how things have changed.

La mer hivernale 冬天看海

2010-08-21T23:08:00.001+10:00

This winter hasn’t been too cold, and watching the sea can be a leisure when it’s not windy.
這裡的冬天不太冷，找一天沒刮大風的，看看海也可以是一種樂趣。

St. Kilda is one of the better known beaches in Melbourne. While it’s really not too difficult to find a better beach around Australia, what attract people to St. Kilda are the variety of shops and restaurants in the neighbourhood as well as the Luna Park amusement park by the sea. There are enough things to keep one occupied for a whole day.
墨爾本其中最為人熟悉的海灘是St. Kilda，在澳洲隨便找一個更好的海灘委實不難，但St. Kilda勝在充滿生氣，毗鄰海灘，特色商店和食肆比比皆是，也有個小型遊樂場Luna Park，到那裡打發一天是挺寫意的。

Lively decorations above the shops at St. Kilda (left) and on a railway bridge in the adjoining suburb Balaclava (right)
St. Kilda的商店屋頂上（左）和鄰近Balaclava區火車橋上（右）生氣盎然的裝飾

The classic roller coaster that still requires manual control! (See the man standing in the middle of the train.)
仍需人手操作的經典過山車（留意列車中間站操作員）

But in the middle of winter, most would have preferred the comforts of restaurants and shops. The amusement games in Luna Park haven’t pulled such large crowds, and even fewer people would brave the seaside. This is exactly the time when the beach can show its more tranquil face, providing the perfect backdrop for a unhurried stroll and intimate chatting along the way. In the middle of the beach, a jetty protrudes about 100 metres out to the sea and offers arguably one of the best positions to enjoy a view of Melbourne with the sea. (The other place is Docklands to the west of the CBD.) The St. Kilda Sea Baths by the beach doubles up as a viewing point for the St. Kilda area on its roof. On the day when I went for a beach walk with a friend, we had the fortune to enjoy the scene of the beach and its surrounds all to ourselves there.
不過一到冬天，大部分人都躲到餐廳或商店裡，遊樂場內玩機動遊戲的也不算太多，沿海邊逛逛的人則更少，那倒可令人感受一下海灘恬靜的一面，散步談心和拍攝時也可更從從容容。海灘有一道伸出海中約100米的渡頭，是拍攝墨爾本市區海景的上佳地點（另一處是船塢區Docklands），而海傍的公眾浴池（St. Kilda Sea Baths），最上層的陽台正好讓人踞高臨下觀賞海灘全景，那天我和朋友正好有幸獨佔這個風景。

St. Kilda Sea Baths (left) and the view of St. Kilda Beach from there (below two)
St. Kilda公眾浴池（左）和從該處看到的海灘景色（下兩圖）

The St. Kilda Pier (left), a place to see Melbourne city differently (right)
在St. Kilda碼頭（左）欣賞難得一見的墨爾本海景（右）

Plain sailing on a winter day
冬日揚帆

The views of the sea in the water is certainly different to those from the land and always await exploring. But unless one is as enthused in diving as my Danish colleague, most of us would probably settle with browsing the shop front of a fishmonger, or visiting the aquarium for something more varied and animated!
從陸地上看海，跟下水後的景象當然截然不同。除非你像我的丹麥同事一樣愛上潛水，不然祇好看海鮮店的窗櫥，又或想看活生生和多些品種的，就非到水族館不可了。

The Melbourne Aquarium covers a great range of organisms from the inland rivers to the beds of oceans, spanning the Australian tropics in the north to Antarctica in the south. The penguins are there to capture everyone’s attention as soon as people step inside the Aquarium. While they may look clumsy shuffling their feet when walking, they show their agile side in water as they make rapid bursts and darts in their swim like flying bullets. Another kind of flying can be seen in the basement, in the Oceanarium where the deep sea animals are kept. Dragging long whips as their tails, the stingrays swim like a cloth flying in the wind, and when walking underneath them it feels like a cloth is about to cover one completely from above the head! The Aquarium offers everyone a glimpse into the lives of organisms which we so rarely encounter, and understand the world in which they call home.
墨爾本水族館（Melbourne Aquarium）內的物種，由內陸河流至深海海床都包羅萬有，北至澳洲熱帶，南至南極冰天雪地都函蓋了，連企鵝也進駐了，而且是甫踏入展館的最當眼位置，別少覷其在陸上步行時步履蹣跚，一跳進水裡便游得活像一枚枚子彈那般快速靈活！住在地庫的深水展館的幾尾魔鬼魚，曳一條幼長的鞭狀尾巴，伸展開來時魚身把整個人包住也可以，在行人管道時如遇上魔鬼魚剛好在頭頂游過的話，就好像看到一片飄流過來的布疋。海洋生物的作息和生活動態難得一見，逛一趟水族館正好讓我們更好好了解。

You'll know the consequences if you tease us!
我們可不好欺負的！

Sluggish on land (top left), maladroit walkers (top right) but propusion jets in water (below)!
在陸上不太活躍（左上），走路也不太靈活（右上），但在水中就脫胎換骨（下）！

It's easier to see through their hearts than human's!
看穿它們的心



Meaty fishes: the Murray cod (left) and the Giant Gourami (right)
斤兩十足：蟲紋麥鱈鱸（左）和大絲足鱸（右）

Safety in company! 結伴同行，有人照應！

Taking a breather ... 請勿打擾！

A walk by the sea and immersing ourselves in the aquarium let us free ourselves temporarily from a world that we’re used to while our visions and minds wander adrift into the deep. This is the magic of the sea.
到海邊看海和到水族館浸淫在水中的世界，可以令我們暫時擱下現實，讓視覺和思維飄游到另遠處。海，就是這樣的一個地方。

Melbourne – top of the world (in prices) 墨爾本的世界之最（貴）

2010-08-08T22:59:00.003+10:00

While dad and I were looking for places for afternoon tea in the city on Sunday 25th July, I was astounded by the prices.
7月25日（星期日）跟家父到市中心閒逛後找地方吃下午茶，驚覺物價如此貴！

We first came across a French-style patisserie/boulangerie and had a quick look through the cake cupboard. While the prices of pastries were still acceptable (albeit slightly expensive), we quickly turned away as we found that many of the cakes were not that cheap. Lemon tarts and similar delicacies cost A$7.4 each (HK$50, US$6.3, 5 euros), and we were wondering if they were really worth the price even though we could well afford them. Still there were no shortage of customers – and that was why two price-conscious (or substitute with a more disparaging adjective) people could sneak in and out of the shop unnoticed.
我倆先到一家法式包蛋糕店，看看窗櫥內糕點的價錢，酥皮餡餅還不算太貴，但一看到其他糕點的價錢，我倆祇有轉身掉頭走的份兒，每個澳幣$7.4（港幣$50、$6.3美元、5歐元）的檸檬撻（檸檬餡餅），我倆不是負擔不起，但很懷疑是否物有所值。那家蛋糕店，少了我們兩個寒酸顧客也不少，反正樂得花錢的顧客擠滿一店，所以我倆走進商店和離開都無人理會。

Then we walked into an arcade and were attracted to a tea house by its display of sumptuous cakes. We also noticed that many people ordered a high tea set, with an assortment of delicacies arranged in tiered plates. We thought it would be worth a try some other time, since there was quite a big crowd of people waiting outside already. But as I looked up the website of the tea house at home, I was less staggered that the place would ask for A$45 per head (HK$315, US$40, 31.5 euros), than that it was actually more expensive than at the top hotel of Hong Kong! After all, that hotel was actually one of the best in the world with a long list of international accolades and restaurants receiving Michelin stars. What was the tea house thinking – does it consider itself to be even better than crème de la crème?
之後走進一家商場內的小餐廳，窗櫥的蛋糕甚是吸引，餐廳內不少顧客都在享用傳統英式下午茶（high tea），也同樣誘人，心想改天來試試也好，因為在餐廳外面等候的人的確不少。但回家上網查看下午茶的價錢，最令人吃驚的不是價錢本身，而是每位澳幣$45（港幣$315、$40美元、31.5歐元）的收費，竟然比香港最頂尖的酒店更貴！那家酒店來頭不少，在全世界數一數二的有名，酒店好幾家食肆也在米芝蓮（米其林）指南摘星，那家小餐廳難道認為自己有過之而無不及？

Maybe it actually is, and perhaps I should pay a visit to find out. But between a rather tiny non-descript shop in an arcade and a hotel lobby with high ceilings, granite floors, splendid décor, live music performance and spacious seating, where would I rather be? Call it prejudice, but the choice is pretty obvious if you ask me. Similarly what the aforementioned patisserie was charging for its cakes was actually more than the most renowned bakeries of Vienna – it’s worth bearing in mind that those Viennese bakeries have a combined history of almost a thousand years behind them and were appointed by the royal family for good reasons: their craft and their variety. Again, maybe I shouldn’t pass judgements so early since the proof is in the eating (quite literally), but to my mind the patisserie has quite a long way to go before it could match what the Viennese bakeries have to offer.
當然我一天沒到那家小餐廳試過，一天也不可下定論，但如果兩者擇其一，我會寧可到一家不見經傳、地方淺窄的小店，還是一家華麗堂皇、高樓底、雲石地版、有現場音樂伴奏和座位闊敞舒適的酒店呢？我想不用大家多猜想吧。之前提及過的法式蛋糕店，價錢其實比維也納最頂級的蛋糕店還要貴，別忘了維也納那幾家，加起來的歷史超過一千年，而且是當年皇室御用，相信他們是手工有一定水準和款式夠多吧，也許是我的偏見，但那家法式蛋糕店想與維也納那幾家項背，依我看來還要下一番苦功呢。

Both cases begs the same question: what justifies those Melbourne businesses to charge so much, even more than the more reputed establishments in other parts of the world supposedly more expensive than Australia? Do they have something really special or different to offer its customers? If not, how have they dreamt up such pricing?
我真的想問，究竟這些墨爾本的商人憑甚麼可以開價開得這麼高，連其他理論上消費指數高於澳洲的地方的更知名商號也望塵不及？是不是這些澳洲生意有甚麼獨特之處或特別優秀的地方？若非然者，他們如何「夠膽」定出這些天價？

Dining is not the only thing that sometimes appears unjustifiably expensive. Although Australian ski fields are smaller, not as high in altitude and receive a less amount and poorer quality of snow than the major resorts in other parts of the world, I found out from a newspaper some time ago that a skiing day pass in some snowfields closest to Melbourne would cost more than $100 (US$90, 70 euros). That was enough to cover a day pass, clothing and equipment hire as well as my share of petrol cost for my skiing trip to Scheffau, Austria two years ago! Travelling within Australia is not necessarily economical either. Some of the tourist attractions around Melbourne charge pretty hefty entry fees, while travelling afar internally doesn’t cost much less than flying abroad. It’s no surprise that smart travellers would rather go to South-East Asia or the USA for a better worth of their money.
收費貴得不合理的不祇是外出用膳。澳洲滑雪場範圍小，山不夠高，雪的質和量都遜於世界主要的滑雪場，但我有天讀報才知道，收費偏偏比其他地方貴。離墨爾本最近的雪山，其一天滑雪通行票的價錢（最少100澳元，即90美元、70歐元），足夠我兩年前在奧地利Scheffau買通行票、租器具和跟同事分擔汽油費了！在澳洲境內旅遊可不便宜，好些市內景點門票都貴得令人咋舌，想到遠一點的地方玩上幾天的話，花費跟出國實在相差不遠，精明的人往往寧可到東南亞或美國旅遊了。

I am not the only one noticing how expensive some aspects of living has become in Melbourne. My Danish colleague and British colleague were one day discussing the dining scene in Melbourne. The Danish colleague commented that restaurant prices in Melbourne were in fact not too different from Denmark but there was a greater choice of cuisine. The British colleague added that eating out often did not cost much more than buying food from the supermarket and cooking for herself. While what the British colleague said might be a bit exaggerated (but from personal experience I also understand that shopping for a single person seems less economical than for a family or a group of people), this little conversation is certainly reflective of the state of consumer prices in Melbourne.
驚覺墨爾本物價貴的，何祇我一人。早一陣子我的丹麥同事跟英國同事談到在這裡外出吃飯，丹麥同事說價錢和丹麥其實差不多，不過這裡勝在選擇多一點，英國同事也附和，說外出吃飯跟在家自己煮食花費也是差不多，我想英國同事可能有點言過其實（但我也很明白，一個人的生活費，當然不及一班人和一家人般划算），但三言兩語中也反映了墨爾本的物價水平了。

Of course not everything is expensive in Australia. At least petrol is cheap compared to most advanced economies, cars are not too expensive, property prices and rents are attractive to many international investors, and golf club memberships are so cheap that all the other four people sharing office with me are all avid golfers!
當然澳洲也不是所有東西都昂貴，起碼汽油比大部分發達國家便宜，汽車也不算太貴，樓價和租金對國際投資者來說仍有吸引力，高爾夫球球會會藉更是平民化價錢，怪不得我同一辦公室的同事都如此熱衷打高爾夫球了！

My whingeing will most likely not change anything, so it’s better to accept it (begrudgingly) and look at what the sometimes exorbitant prices in Melbourne mean. Melbourne people must be pretty well-to-do in general and are willing spenders. I don’t have hard salary statistics at hand, but at least I can say that the lower paid in Australia are definitely much better off than the Hong Kong counterparts (shameful on Hong Kong actually) and on par with the richer European countries, while I feel the middle tier is probably slightly ahead in Australia with a tad better gross pay than Hong Kong (especially at current exchange rate) and lower tax rate than Europe. The outward signs of wealth among Australians are inescapable when one sees them crowding pricey eating places, juggling multiple carrier bags in shopping centres and driving more larger cars or European cars. Melbourne businesses must also be making handsome profits. Regardless of the underlying staff costs and rents, when shops are selling products (books, good clothing, shoes, many electrical appliances, cinema tickets and you name it) at appreciably higher prices than many other countries, you can’t help to wonder how fat the profit margins are. So if you are thinking of setting up a retail or restaurant business, yes, Melbourne – and other major Australian cities – will not disappoint you!
無論我如何抱怨，也改變不了現實，倒不如忍聲吞氣無奈接受，和想想天價反映的現像。我猜想墨爾本人一般而言一定挺富裕而且花錢花得起，雖然手頭上沒有確實統計數字，但澳洲低收入階層，處境必定遠比香港的好（這其實真是香港之恥），亦應會跟歐洲較富裕的國家看齊，中層收入而言，澳洲會稍勝香港（以稅前計，何況現時澳幣也升了值）而稅率又比歐洲低，所以在澳洲不難看到財富日多的象徵，例如貴價食肆門庭若市，商場購客攜著大包小包，街上大型汽車和歐洲高價車也愈來愈多。在墨爾本營商想必有利可圖，不管背後員工和租金開支是如何，如果售價比全世界這麼多地方都要高（不論是書籍、品質較好的衣履、不少電器或電子產品、電影票或其他更多產品），利潤總會可觀吧，所以有意開零售和餐飲生意者，來墨爾本或澳洲其他大城市必定不會讓你失望！

正字正確

2010-07-26T23:34:00.001+10:00

廣州最近掀起保衛廣東話運動，早前星期日明報副刊一篇文章，已對此作了精譬分析，我也不必插嘴了。

不過我想談談另一個相連的問題，相信久不久也會困擾好些港人，就是怎樣才算「正確」、「正統」的書面語。

我們自少便被老師耳提面命，廣東話絕不可用於寫作（雖然現在大行其道，我在網上留言甚至偶而寫電郵都會用廣東話），粵語和港式詞彙應以書面語（以普通話為標準的用語）取代，於是把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜，諸如此類，從小已習慣，我也沒異議。

但香港實在很多獨有的或跟國內有差別的詞彙，應用於主要給香港人看的場合當然沒問題，但國內或其他華人就可能覺得蹩腳甚至不一定明白。同樣國內的好些用詞，港人看到也會覺得有點不自然甚至礙眼。我寫網誌不時都會掙扎，究竟用國內的用詞好（我想一般來說應該是比較「正規」的，而且近幾年跟來自國內的人多了交往，或多或少都學到一點他們的用語），還是香港的說法好（始終不少讀者都是香港人，用上國內的詞語他們或許會覺得有點怪怪的），所以我盡可能兩者兼用，港式說法通常以括號並列，但我有時祇會用國內的用詞，也有時祇用香港的說法，可見我也往往拿不定主意。

問題是應該怎樣劃界線，區別「正確」和「不正確」的書面用語呢？我們應該遵從甚麼的「標準」？比方說在香港，學生寫了一句「我的志願是太空人」，公認是沒有問題的，老師一般也不會勉強學生寫「我的志願是航天員」，好了，這樣便是承認了香港和國內的用語確有區別，但既然如此，為甚麼把該句寫成「我嘅志願係太空人」時，老師便一定不會容許？又或者為甚麼寫作時硬要把雪櫃寫成冰箱、櫃桶寫成抽屜？這道界線是誰定的，定立時又有甚麼理據？香港可不像很多國家般，有一個高高在上的法定語文機構（例如法國的Académie française），又或有權威性的詞典（例如英國的牛津字典，和國內的辭海），對語文作出一定規範，難免令人寫作時感到無所適從，甚麼香港和粵語詞彙可以用於書面、哪些不可。

用語的取向，也涉及文化取態的問題，我像一般港人一樣也認同寫作時要用書面語，盡量跟隨普通話的「標準」，但不會全盤用國內的詞彙和行文，一來不習慣，二來不免總有種維護本土文化的潛意識，特別是香港和國內社會制度上和文化上始終有點隔閡，這種矛盾不一定輕易化解。

究竟甚麼才算是「標準」、「正確」的書面中文，我想大概沒有「標準答案」，往往靠個人的見識和學養才可作出定奪，但隨著香港跟國內交往越來越頻繁，大家受的文化衝擊也會越來越多，行文如何才算「正確」不祇是學術問題，亦是實際生活的問題，不知各位網友對此有何高見？

No through roads 路路不通

2010-07-16T23:25:00.008+10:00

Melbourne had a new rail operator since the start of the year. Many passengers like I had high hopes for this rail company headed by Hong Kong’s MTR Corporation, but instead of reducing cancellations and improving punctuality, railway operation has been going downhill recently.
墨爾本年初換了火車營運商，由港鐵公司為首的集團經營，本對其寄予希望，能減少火車脫班誤點，不過近來則每下愈況。

Last week there was a series of railway delays, and it struck when I least wanted. The trains decided to make a fool of me last Wednesday. I left work earlier than usual for a family occasion, but there was a problem with overhead power supply that was affecting train departures. I could sense something serious as the count-down timer for the next train had frozen, and I had to dust off my Plan B and took an unaffected train line so that my parents could pick me up somewhere else. (A Plan B is indispensable in Melbourne if one relies on public transport for the daily commute, and it will be practised at least 2 to 3 times a year.) It also didn’t help matters that it took me several attempts before my mobile phone could connect to the network when dialling home. I must have had enough by then and decided to vent my frustration out in my Facebook status, saying ‘Why do the trains always fail me when I have important family occasions to attend? And why do I have to put up with pathetic Melbourne infrastructure (not just transport)?’ (Yes, I decided to take a swipe at the general state of infrastructure in Melbourne too.) I had two replies from friends who told me that I should buy a car instead.
上星期火車接連出現延誤，星期三那天家中有喜事，提早一點下班跟家人出外吃晚飯，豈料火車遍遍要跟我作對，總站發生電力故障，影響列車開出，眼看站台顯示屏顯示下趟車的倒計時完全停頓，心覺不妙，馬上決定改坐另一條線（在墨爾本坐公共交通上下班必須要準備後備方案，而且一年要應用最少兩、三次），打手機請家人到另一個車站接我，撥了好幾次才接通網絡，不禁無名火起，在Facebook狠罵火車公司為何總是家中有重要日子時就來耍我（也順道罵墨爾本的基建為何這麼差勁），有兩個朋友回覆說，還是買輛車開車好了。

Then on Saturday, I was going to meet with a couple of colleagues at Camberwell for lunch before picking up my laptop from Box Hill. As the train trip from Camberwell to Box Hill would take only 10 minutes, same as driving, I decided that I could drive my family car to Box Hill, park it there and take a train to Camberwell to save some driving. I set off just before midday and arrived at Box Hill in 20 minutes. There I first looked for parking in the free underground railway car park, but the some 300 parking spots were all taken and I had no luck finding a spot having done a full circuit within the whole car park. The paid shopping centre car park one level above the railway car park was no better as its entrance was packed. So I could only drive back to the ground level, circle the nearby streets, then back to the underground car parks to try my luck again, but it was all in vain. Knowing that there wasn’t much time left to muck around, I returned to the ground level once more and quickly grabbed a road-side metered parking spot in a street farther away and parked the car there for 4 hours. A good 20 minutes was spent just for parking – the same as driving from home to Box Hill and certainly enough for driving to Camberwell! But once I was in Camberwell, I was only glad that I didn’t drive all the way there, because parking spots were also in short supply and had a maximum limit of 2 hours whether they were free or metered. It would have been a hassle if I forgot about the parked car while enjoying myself in Camberwell, as the municipality, like all others, sees traffic infringements as money-raking opportunities and will fine all the guilty motorists in earnest.
到了星期六，我約了同事在Camberwell區吃午飯，然後到Box Hill區拿電腦，心想Camberwell到Box Hill坐火車也祇是十分鐘，跟開車差不多，所以決定祇是開車往Box Hill，在那裡把車停放（泊車），再換乘火車往Camberwell，那就可以省一點駕車路程。我中午開車花了20分鐘，到了Box Hill，本想在火車站的免費地下停車場停放車子，但敞大的停車場、三百多個停車位竟然全滿，繞了一圈繞個空，想到上一層的商場收費停車場，看到入口也水洩不通，便返回路面，繞了一個大圈再次回到免費地下停車場碰碰運氣，也無功而還，眼看時間不多，祇好無奈返回路面，到遠一點的地方，在路邊的計時停車位停放四小時。由到達Box Hill直至找這個停車位，前後便足足花了20分鐘，足以開往Camberwell了！不過到了Camberwell，才發現那裡的停車位同樣供不應求，而且無論收費或免費也最多祇可停放兩小時，要是顧吃飯或逛街而忘了時限便糟了（開交通罰單是搖錢樹，所以每個市政區都會嚴厲執行，絕不放過逾時停車的），我也慶幸沒把車駛到Camberwell。

Of course I could have spared myself totally of driving by catching a bus to Box Hill, but in return I would have to put up with 30-minute frequencies in the morning and 40-minute in the afternoon. Taking public transport can be a real pain in Melbourne, but driving doesn’t necessarily make life easier when parking becomes so arduous. Is hiding home the only good solution?
當然我可以連駕車往Box Hill也省掉，不過代價是忍受上午30分鐘一趟、下午40分鐘一趟的公交車（巴士）。此間坐公共交通難，開車找停車位也惱人，難道真的是閉關在家才可免一切煩惱？

* * *

As I was looking futilely for a parking spot in the underground car park, I heard from the radio news that many parts of the world were experiencing extreme heat and this year would be on track to be the hottest in history. This is no doubt a sign of global climate change.
就是在地下停車場兜兜轉轉的時候，我聽到電台新聞報導說，現時全球多處天氣異常酷熱，今年極可能是有紀錄以來地球平均溫度最高的一年，想必是全球氣候變化的徵兆。

I felt bad for becoming an accomplice of climate change as the petrol was burnt needlessly for 20 minutes doing nothing terribly useful.
我白白燒了20分鐘汽油找停車位，不經不覺間也成了氣候變化的幫兇。

There was a similar situation when I flew from Melbourne to Brisbane in June.The plane had to spend an extra 20 minutes circling south of Brisbane before it could land. I could not figure out what was holding up the plane on Saturday midday, as it certainly wasn’t a peak time of air traffic and Brisbane is not a particularly busy airport in general. Although the delay didn’t bother me much and gave me a good opportunity to take some aerial photo shots, it was definitely not doing the environment a favour. I couldn’t help thinking how much fuel would be wasted and greenhouse gases released unnecessarily if a number of flights were also affected at the same time.
六月從墨爾本飛往布里斯本時，我也遇上類似情況，飛機在布里斯本南面繞了兩三個圈，耽誤了20分鐘才降落，那時是星期六中午，不是甚麼繁忙時間，布里斯本也不是個特別繁忙的機場，究竟有甚麼因素阻礙飛機降落呢？浪費時間還算小事，我也因此可以拍攝好幾張高空風景照，但燃油昂貴兼污染性高，如果那時多班飛機同時受影響的話，會平白消耗不少寶貴資源、產生大量不必要的溫室氣體，破壞環境。

The varying and interesting relief in southern Queensland
山巒起伏的昆士蘭南部



The southern suburbs (left) and CBD (right) of Brisbane
布里斯本南面的市郊（左）和市中心（右）

The container port near the airport
機場鄰近的貨運碼頭

Driving and flying are undoubtedly rather damaging to the environment through the pollutants and greenhouse gases generated, but they are necessary evils of modern life as there are often no alternatives. A good part of the damage stems from the pointless burning of fuel during engine idling, e.g. congestion on the roads and airport tarmacs, or when the vehicle is operating unproductively, e.g. finding a parking spot for a long time and diversion of air traffic in crowded airspace. This wastage and pollution ought to be reduced through improving traffic flow or air traffic control so that the cars and planes can travel more smoothly and burn less fuel. Legislating when car engines must be switched off is also useful in this regard. I can’t give up driving or flying, but I want to feel less guilty about them.
駕車和坐飛機雖會產生廢氣和溫室氣體，但現實生活有時並無他擇，所以可說是「必要之惡」。排放的源頭，往往來自無建設性的消耗，例如道路塞車、等候載客時或大量航班在停機坪等待起飛時的引擎空轉，和找停車位或因避開空域擠塞而繞道降落的白白消耗燃料。針對這些排放，應從改善車流和航道管理入手，令交通更流暢，減少空等或繞道帶來的浪費，又或立法規定車輛甚麼時候必須關掉引擎（例如最近在香港鬧得沸沸揚揚的「停車熄匙」立法），令我這個久不久便要坐飛機和開車的，心安理得一點。